California  Garden-Flowers, 

Shrubs,  Trees  and  Vines 


BEING   MAINLY 


Suggestions  for  Working  Amateurs 


BY 

E.   J.   WICKSON 

Professor  of  Horticulture,  University  of  California;  Honorary  President,  Califor- 
nia State  Floral  Society;  Editor,  Pacific  Rural  Press  of  San  Francisco; 
Author,  "  California  Fruits  and  How  to  Grow  Them," 
"  California  Vegetables  in  Garden  and  Field," 
"One  Thousand  Questions  in  California 
Agriculture  Answered,"  Etc. 


'  There's  not  a  pair  of  legs  so  thin,  there's  not  a  head  so  thick, 
There's  not  a  hand  so  weak  and  white,  nor  yet  a  heart  so  sick, 
But  it  can  find  some  needful  job  that's  crying  to  be  done 
For  the  glory  of  the  garden  glorifieth  every  one. 

1  Oh,  Adam  was  a  gardener,  and  God  who  made  him,  sees 
That  half  a  proper  gardener's  work  is  done  upon  his  knees, 
So,  when  your  work  is  finished,  you  can  wash  your  hands  and  pray 
For  the  Glory  of  the  Garden  that  it  may  not  pass  away  I 
And  the  Glory  of  the  Garden  it  shall  never  pass  away  !  " 


Kipling 


PACIFIC   RURAL  PRESS 

SAN  FRANCISCO 

1915 


COPYRIGHT   1914 

BY 
E.  J.  WICKSON 

AND 
PACIFIC  RURAL  PRESS 


PREFACE 


In  the  hope  of  assisting  others  to  attain  greater  joy  and  satisfac- 
tion in  the  common  growing  of  flowers,  which  he  has  himself  courted 
as  an  avocation  from  other  weightier  horticultural  affairs  for  more 
than  thirty-five  years,  the  writer  gathers  suggestions  from  his  own 
experience  and  enriches  them  with  his  observation  and  study  of  the 
work  of  others  who  have  also  enjoyed  the  advantage  of  pursuing  their 
garden  activities  in  California. 

Flower-growing  includes  a  wide  range  of  activity.  On  the  one 
hand  it  may  lay  hold  upon  a  wealth  of  natural  plant-beauty  and 
behavior  and  win  for  its  votary,  in  the  public  eye,  the  semblance  of 
a  botanist.  On  the  other  hand  flower-growing  may  become  so 
thoroughly  engrossed  with  artificial  standards  of  size,  variegation  and 
floriferousness  and  use  so  freely  the  agencies  and  materials  which 
promote  them,  that  its  successful  operator  may  almost  seem  to  be  a 
manufacturer. 

Both  of  these  lofty  extremes  of  flower-growing  are  equally  beyond 
the  reach  of  this  writer.  He  has  never  seen  a  "wild-garden"  which 
gave  him  any  of  the  joy  of  a  ramble  in  the  woods  or  on  the  hillsides 
or  meadows.  Even  the  same  plants  jumbled  together  could  never 
suggest  to  him  that  a  corner  of  a  back  yard  had  the  slightest  approach 
to  wildness.  The  plants  lack  natural  pose,  or  a  corner  of  the  fence 
intrudes,  or  a  domestic  cat  jumps  out  of  the  aquilegias  or  something 
else  always  discloses  deus  ex  machina.  For  this  reason,  although 
free  use  of  California  native  plants  will  be  emphasized,  the  reader 
will  find  herein  no  suggestion  of  a  "wild-garden,"  nor  of  flowers 
grown  in  a  wild  way,  nor  of  a  botanist  with  his  notebook  and  tin- 
ware— nor  of  anything  else  which  the  ordinary  reader  might  mistake 
for  science  of  any  kind. 

And  the  same  attitude  will  be  observed  toward  the  other  extreme 
of  flower-growing — the  manufacturing  art.  No  attempt  will  be  made 
to  describe  the  way  "florist  flowers"  are  grown.  In  this  case  the 
writer  has  no  prejudice.  He  has  no  objection  to  blossoms  of 
colossal  size  nor  to  promotion  of  variation  or  abundance  by  heat,  special 
fertilizers  and  fine  arts  of  handling,  which  are  the  business  capital  of 
the  florist.  Nor  does  he  object  to  intensive  culture  in  the  open  air, 
such  as  trenching,  double  trenching,  etc.,  by  which  a  man  is  ordered 
to  make  deeper  excavations  for  a  bulb  or  a  root,  than  were  required 
for  the  foundations  of  his  cottage.  All  these  things  are  laudable  in 
their  way,  but  they  are  the  properties  of  the  professional  gardeners, 
who  manufacture  flowers  either  for  the  trade  or  for  the  home  use  of 


4  4-    **."•*    CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

wealthy  amateurs,  who  employ  them.  The  writer  is  not  affecting  to 
conceal  these  things  from  the  public;  he  does  not  know  them  as  a 
teacher  should  know  things. 

Thus  the  writer  avoids  the  perilous  heights  of  science  whence  the 
botanists  continually  bring  unique  ,and  beautiful  plants  for  common 
use  and  dispense  accurate  knowledge  of  all  plants  which  is  of  great 
value.  Thus  also  he  avoids  the  miry  lowlands,  where  the  florist  works 
with  acres  of  glass,  tons  of  heating  iron,  and  pyramids  of  fertilizers 
to  create  monsters,  which  save  .amateurs  from  too  great  conceit  in 
their  own  achievements.  Between  the  two  lie  the  mesas  of  moderate 
effort  and  moderate  investment  upon  which  anyone,  with  a  love  for  it 
can  grow  in  California,  through  the  whole  circle  of  the  year,  by  the 
square  foot  or  by  the  acre,  as  his  available  space  may  be,  flowers  to  delight 
his  heart,  to  comfort  his  wife  and  to  educate  his  children.  Great  as  is 
California  in  her  endowment  of  nature's  handiwork  in  flowers,  great 
as  is  the  opportunity  she  offers  for  striking  achievements  in  the  higher 
arts  of  flower-growing,  unquestionably  her  greatest  gift  to  her  people 
is  active  participation  with  them  in  the  common  growing  of  flowers 
for  the  environment  of  such  homes  as  most  people  can  secure.  It  is 
to  the  promotion  of  this  great  benefit  and  joy  that  the  writer  aims 
to  minister. 

The  reader  is  advised  that  the  effort  to  prescribe  certain  varieties 
of  popular  flowers  as  the  best  of  their  kind  is  systematically  avoided. 
There  are  three  reasons  for  this  restraint  on  the  part  of  the  writer: 
first  the  same  varieties  are  not  best  in  all  localities  and  the  writer 
is  trying  to  advise  broadly  for  the  state;  second,  selection  of  best 
varieties  is  a  matter  of  taste  in  hue  and  form  and  therefore  a  matter 
of  individual  judgment;  third,  in  the  constant  effort  for  improvement, 
old  favorites  are  always  likely  to  be  dethroned.  The  reader  should 
always  keep  pace  with  improvements  in  flowers  he  loves,  by  study  of 
his  neighbors'  newer  plantings,  by  attending  floral  exhibitions  and  by 
reading  periodicals  and  florists'  announcements.  All  enterprising 
florists  do  what  they  can  with  new  varieties  and  can  usually  show  you 
many  of  them  in  bloom.  It  is  usually  from  the  commercial  establish- 
ments that  the  amateur  must  secure  information  of  the  varieties  which 
are  at  the  time  standard  in  his  district  and  of  novelties  which  he 
should  add  to  his  trial  lists. 

E.  J.  WICKSON. 
University  of   California,   Berkeley,   1915. 


CONTENTS 

PART  I:     CALIFORNIA  CONDITIONS. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Page 
Introductory 7 

CHAPTER  II. 
Climatic  Characters  and  Advantages  12 

CHAPTER  III. 
Soils  and  Fertilizers   23 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Tillage  and  Irrigation  34 

PART  II:    CALIFORNIA  CULTURAL  SUGGESTIONS. 

CHAPTER  V. 
Laying  Out  the  Garden  v 44 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Elements  of  Propagation    55 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Growth  of  Plants  from  Seeds   57 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Growth  of  Plants  from  Buds 63 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Hot-beds  and  Cold  Frames  77 

CHAPTER  X. 
The  Amateur's  Greenhouse  82 

CHAPTER  XI. 
Planting,  Pruning  and  Training  87 

PART  III:     THE  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  YEAR. 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Characters,  Adaptations  and  Requirements  of  the  Months 93 


CONTENTS 

PART  IV:  CALIFORNIA'S  WAYS  WITH  GARDEN  PLANTS. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Page 
Lawns  and  Ground  Covers 115 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
The  Rose 131 

CHAPTER  XV. 
The  Carnation 148 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
The  Chrysanthemum 153 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Open-air  Herbaceous  Plants   160 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Bulbs,  Tubers  and  Roots   184 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
Flowers  for  Hot,  Dry  Regions  206 

CHAPTER  XX. 
Water  Plants  in  California  Gardens   213 

PART  V:    SHRUBS,  TREES  AND  VINES. 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Choice  and  Treatment  of  Arborescent  Plants 217 

CHAPTER  XXII. 
Shrubs  Approved  for  California  Gardens   224 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Garden  Palms  for  California  239 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 
Trees  for  Shade  and  Ornament 243 

CHAPTER  XXV. 
Climbing  Plants  for  California  Gardens   251 

PART  VI:  PLANT  PROTECTION. 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Methods  Against  Plant  Pests  and  Diseases    255 

Index   .  259 


PART  I:    CALIFORNIA  CONDITIONS. 

CHAPTER  I. 
INTRODUCTORY. 

California  has  grown  superb  flowers  ever  since  creation.  Following 
that  event  the  local  growth  of  plants  was  observed  to  be  so  fine  that 
California  was  among  the  sites  proposed  for  the  Garden  of  Eden.  Other 
considerations  were,  however,  against  us.  It  had  been  decided  that 
the  course  of  empire  should  move  with  the  sun — westward.  To  secure 
westward  movement  of  a  race  of  beings  planted  on  the  west  coast 
of  a  continent  would  necessitate  the  creation  of  creatures  with  an 
original  aspiration  for  fins  rather  than  for  wings,  which  would  change 
the  plans  for  a  birthplace  of  the  human  race,  from  a  garden  into  an 
aquarium.  Because  of  such  difficulties  California  was  not  chosen  for 
the  Garden  of  Eden,  and  a  less  beautiful  site  in  Asia  was  decided 
upon,  since  men  could  trail  out  in  all  directions  from  their  birth-place, 
and,  having  circled  around  enough  to  test  their  legs,  finally  strike  out 
upon  the  great  pedestrian  excursions  which  led  stragglers  to  the  shores 
of  narrower  oceans  which  they  could  conveniently  cross,  while  the 
great  central  movement  westward  through  Europe  had  an  open  course 
upon  dry  land.  Those  who  had  zealously  advocated  California  as  a 
site  for  the  Garden  consoled  themselves  with  the  reflection  that  after 
all  it  is  not  what  is  given  a  man  at  the  beginning,  but  what  he  finds 
for  himself  that  satisfies  him.  The  wisdom  of  this  thought  now  clearly 
appears.  The  race  has  proved  so  forgetful  of  Eden  that  no  one  knows 
now  exactly  where  it  was,  while  California  stands  clear  in  the  eyes  of 
the  world  as  the  point  most  desirable  to  attain  for  the  fullest  joys  of 
living. 

And  yet,  in  spite  of  such  a  concession  that,  according  to  the  pre- 
vailing opinion  of  mankind,  California  missed  the  location  of  the 
Garden  of  Eden,  there  is  still  ground  for  contention  that  we  amply 
possess  it.  Prof.  Edward  Robertson,  of  the  University  of  Chicago, 
claimed  recently  that  Eden  was  not  intended  to  have  definite  bounds. 
"It  is  evident  that  the  whole  narrative  is  a  figure  of  speech,"  says 
Professor  Robertson,  "enshrining  the  doctrine  of  an  irresponsible  and 
sinless  state  in  which  man  was  created,  whence  he  passed  into  one 
responsible  and  sinful.  From  what  we  can  gather,  there  appears  to 
have  been  no  definite  location  of  the  garden  in  the  mind  of  the  nar- 
rator. His  pleasure  garden  is  an  ideal  locality."  The  argument  seems 
to  be  that  every  man  can  have  a  Garden  of  Eden  under  his  hat  if 
his  heart  is  right,  and  one  can  have  no  dispute  with  that  doctrine. 
But  that  does  not  at  all  dispose  of  the  real  existence  of  such  a  place; 
in  fact  it  only  makes  it  surer,  not  only  that  there  was  such  a  place,  but 


8  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

that  there  is  still  such  a  place.  The  whole  argument  of  the  Chicago 
savant  strongly  affirms  that  there  was  and  is  a  Garden  of  Eden  and 
that  it  was  and  is  in  California — as  our  real  estate  literature  clearly 
contends. 

Obviously  this  Edenic  discussion  is  intended  for  the  purpose  of 
indicating  the  present  relation  of  California  to  the  other  abodes  of 
mankind.  The  world  at  large  developed  California  at  the  point  where 
the  greatest  ocean  separates  the  east  from  the  west.  From  California 
the  reversal  of  the  westward  course  of  empire — the  return-flow  of 
civilization — must  proceed.  California  first  paid  her  debt  to  the  world 
in  gold;  since  then  California  has  rewarded  the  world's  confidence  by 
producing  a  new  type  of  mankind,  a  new  point  of  view,  a  new  phase 
of  literature,  a  new  freedom  of  thought,  a  new  conception  of  enterprise. 
Incidentally  California  has  also  enriched  the  world  with  new  plants, 
new  ways  of  growing  and  handling  plants  in  industry,  new  installation 
of  plant-beauty  in  the  heart  and  in  the  home. 

California's  Natural  Endowment. — Having  thus  determined  the 
main  fact  of  California's  floral  endowment  from  creation's  dawn  to  the 
present  day,  the  writer  must  deny  himself  any  attempt  to  picture  that 
endowment.  Such  effort  belongs  to  our  poets,  painters  and  botanists, 
and  they  have  very  successfully  pursued  it,  for  our  California  literature 
and  art-work  with  flowers  is  very  creditable  to  a  state  so  young  in 
history,  though  so  old  in  beauty.  But  though  the  writer  takes  fright 
at  the  standards  of  poetry  and  art,  it  is  interesting  to  note  briefly  a 
few  California  publications  which  treat  of  the  arrangement,  culture 
and  botany  of  the  plants  which  this  publication  holds  in  view.* 

California's  natural  endowment  of  flowers  seems  to  have  amply 
satisfied  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  nor  did  their  successors,  the  Span- 
ish and  the  Mexicans,  undertake  much  in  garden-making.  The  padres 
who  established  the  'Missions  had  ample  fruit  gardens,  but  they  did 
little  with  cultivated  flowers — probably  because  the  wild  flowers  were 
so  varied  and  abundant. 

Enrichment  of  Our  Flora. — With  the  settlement  after  the  gold  dis- 
covery in  1848,  however,  a  new  floral  era  dawned  in  California  and 
there  was  received  from  all  parts  of  the  world  an  endowment  of  skill 
in  floral  arts  and  of  floral  sentiment.  In  the  ranks  of  the  pioneers 
there  came  flower  lovers  and  skilled  culturists  from  all  parts  of  the 
United  States  and  from  the  whole  breadth  of  the  old  world  from 


*  "Gardening  in  California:  Landscape  and  Flower,"  by  John  McLaren,  San 
Francisco;  "Garden  Book  of  California/'  by  Belle  Sumner  Angier,  Los  Angeles; 
'  Gardening  in  California,"  by  W.  S.  Lyon  (out  of  print) ;  "California  Wild  Flowers," 
by  Parsons  and  Buck,  San  Francisco;  "A.  Flora  of  California,"  "Flora  of  Western 
Middle  California,"  "Trees  of  California,"  and  "Silva  of  California,"  by  Dr.  W.  L. 
Jepson,  Berkeley;  "A  Yosemite  Flora,"  and  "Studies  in  Ornamental  Trees  and 
Shrubs,"  by  Dr.  H.  M.  Hall,  Berkeley;  "The  Golden  Poppy,"  by  Emory  E.  Smith, 
San  Francisco.  These  books,  so  far  as  now  available,  can  be  secured  through  the 
Pacific  Rural  Press  of  San  Francisco  at  publishers'  prices. 


PLANTS  OF  THE  WORLD  IN  CALIFORNIA.  9 

Ireland  eastward  to  Japan.  Since  then,  the  accessions  to  our  cosmo- 
politan population  have  included  those  who  have  heard  flower  lore 
in  all  the  tongues  of  men.  Nowhere  on  earth,  probably,  has  there  been 
such  a  gathering  of  devotees  to  floriculture,  bringing  the  choicest 
plants  from  the  utmost  confines  of  the  planet.  The  writer  is  .not 
aware  that  full  enumeration  of  California's  acquisitions  of  exotic  plants 
has  ever  been  undertaken.  It  is,  however,  clear  that  it  would  disclose 
an  astonishing  /aggregate.  Dr.  F.  Franceschi,  formerly  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara, made  the  following  statement  in  1900: 

"Santa  Barbara  is  known  at  present  all  over  the  world  as  the  place 
where  the  largest  number  of  plants  from  widely  different  climates 
have  congregated  to  live  happily  together,  and  often  will  thrive  with 
more  vigor  than  in  their  native  countries.  At  the  beginning  of  the 
new  century  it  is  safe  to  say  that  there  are  grown  in  the  open  at  Santa 
Barbara  not  less  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  different  species  of  palms, 
about  the  same  number  of  conifers,  fifty  species  of  bamboo,  about  three 
hundred  vines  and  climbers,  and,  in  addition,  something  like  two 
thousand  different  species  of  trees,  shrubs  and  perennials.  They  have 
convened  here  from  the  hottest  and  from  the  coldest  as  well  as  from 
the  temperate  regions  of  the  globe,  and  they  combine  to  make  a  dis- 
play of  vegetation  that  has  no  rival  anywhere." 

Since  the  above  statement  was  written  introduction  has  continued 
and  present  figures  are  much  in  advance  of  those  cited.  Wealth  and 
taste  have  extended  the  exotic  flora  of  the  Santa  Barbara  region  as 
perhaps  no  other  similar  area  in  California  has  been  enriched.  But 
of  course  wealth  is  not  needed  to  secure  beauty;  taste  and  effort  are 
the  essentials. 

DEVELOPMENT  OF  FLORAL  INTEREST. 

During  the  early  decades  of  American  occupation,  however,  ornamental 
horticulture  received  scant  attention  except  in  the  suburban  pleasure  gar- 
dens and  parks  of  the  pioneer  cities  and  in  the  few  private  gardens  of  the 
time.  These  were  wonders  to  visitors,  but  their  lesson  to  all  California 
home-makers  was  slowly  learned.  Rural  scenes  for  many  years  included 
inhospitable  cabins  or  ranch  houses,  their  weather-beaten  sides  environed 
by  corrals,  or  by  dilapidated  sheds  and  barns,  their  chief  door-yard  orna- 
ments being  farm  tools  and  machines  soaking  in  the  rain  and  bleaching  in 
the  sun,  and  their  borders  colored  with  discarded  cans  and  broken  crockery 
—pictures  of  unthrift  and  desolation. 

Notable  changes  in  the  landscape,  and  in  the  environment  of  rural 
homes,  came  with  the  upbuilding  of  the  fruit  industries.  The  beauty  of 
the  areas  of  fruit  trees  and  vines  began  to  win  the  eye  from  the  neglect  of 
the  house-yard,  and  the  newer  outbuildings  were  usually  trim  and  incon- 
spicuous. More  recently  the  influence  of  well-cultivated  fruit  areas  has 
been  to  develop  neatness  and  good  culture  in  the  house-gardens.  It  is 


10  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

common  now  to  see  around  rural  homes  thrifty  blooming  plants  adapted 
to  the  localities,  good  hard  roads  and  walks,  following  lines  of  conveni- 
ence, and  wide  lawns  or  stretches  of  low  shrubs  connecting  the  home- 
buildings  with  the  environing  vineyard  or  orchard  expanses  or  with  alfalfa 
fields,  extending  to  the  edge  of  sight.  Still  there  is  room  for  much  wider 
prevalence  of  these  desirable  rural  scenes. 

It  is  desirable  also  that  there  should  be  disseminated  a  higher  and  truer 
conception  of  floral  worth  and  beauty,  and  a  better  knowledge  of  what  are 
the  best  flowers  and  how  best  to  grow  them.  It  must  be  acknowledged 
that  grand  and  continuous  as  is  the  bloom  which  our  benign  climate  and 
generous  soils  give  to  even  the  most  careless  grower,  our  knowledge  of 
floricultural  art  and  our  practice  thereof  are  still  inferior.  If  such  intensive 
culture  were  given  here  as  is  practiced  in  the  most  advanced  distant  regions, 
where  they  do  wonders  in  spite  of  great  difficulties  in  soil  and  climate,  the 
improvement  of  our  garden  flowers  would  carry  them  so  far  beyond  their 
present  state  that  we  could  hardly  recognize  them. 

Many  influences  are  strongly  working  toward  a  wider  and  truer  appreci- 
ation of  excellence  in  rural  and  suburban  surroundings.  The  very  praise- 
worthy work  of  women's  clubs,  the  introduction  of  horticultural  studies  in 
the  public  schools,  the  continuous  exhortation  of  agricultural  speakers  and 
writers,  the  multiplication  of  floral  festivals,  and  the  commendable  enter- 
prise of  seedsmen  and  nurserymen — all  these  and  other  agencies  are  ex- 
tending knowledge  of  rural  improvement  and  stimulating  desire  for  the 
enjoyment  of  it. 

Our  State  Flower. — A  fitting  token  of  the  prevalence  of  floral  in- 
terest and  enjoyment  in  California  is  the  character  of  the  flower  adopted  as 
the  floral  emblem  of  the  State.  By  Act  of  the  California  Legislature,  ap- 
proved March  2,  1903,  the  golden  poppy  (Eschscholtzia  Calif  arnica)  became 
the  state  flower  of  California.  The  flower  was  chosen  to  queenship  by  the 
State  Floral  Society  at  a  duly  announced  election  a  decade  earlier,  the 
poppy  securing  a  pronounced  plurality  over  all  rivals  for  the  honor.  The 
choice  was  ratified  by  local  floral  societies  and  enthusiastically  accepted  by 
hosts  of  organizations  and  individuals,  by  their  use  of  the  emblem  in  their 
publications,  their  insignia  and  their  decorations.  Botanists  and  travelers 
have  declared  the  choice  one  eminently  fit  to  be  made  because  of  the 
occurrence  of  the  plant  in  every  part  of  the  State  and  the  fact  that  every 
day  in  the  year,  in  some  region  or  another,  its  bloom  can  be  found,  casting 
a  glorious  golden  glow  over  even  the  most  desolate  places,  transforming 
wastes  of  sand  into  grand  stretches  of  color  wherever  a  shower  gives  the 
narrowest  chance  of  growth,  or  spreading  a  larger,  deeper  orange  bloom 
over  our  richest  soils  in  the  fullness  of  the  rainy  season. 

Common  consent  has  proclaimed  the  beauty  of  the  poppy  expressive  of 
the  chief  interests  of  the  State — the  gold  of  the  mine,  the  gold  of  the  grain 
field,  the  gold  of  the  orchard,  the  gold  of  the  dairy — are  all  typified  in  the 


GIVE  YOUR  PLACE  A  GOOD  NAME.  11 

glorious  petals  of  the  flower.  Jewelers  have  patterned  their  finest  work  in 
gold  and  gems  upon  its  graceful  outlines.  Artists  have  vied  with  each 
other  to  reproduce  its  beauties.  Architects  and  mural  artists  have  shown 
by  their  works  that  no  flower  is  its  superior  either  in  foliage  or  bloom  for 
their  decorative  metamorphoses.  Production  and  trade  have  seized  upon 
its  charm  to  adorn  their  illuminated  labels  and  trade-marks.  In  short, 
proceeding  from  regular  coronation  by  the  highest  constituted  authority 
in  the  State  in  floral  lines,  all  through  innumerable  popular  endorsement 
of  the  initial  proclamation  of  her  floral  majesty,  the  golden  poppy  came  to 
be  every  inch  a  floral  queen,  and  was  already  secure  in  the  popular  heart 
when  declared  by  legislative  act  to  be  the  chosen  floral  emblem  of  Cali- 
fornia. 

Individualize  The  Home  Place.— And  now  that  we  have  a  state 
thus  fitly  and  beautifully  symbolized  it  is  desirable  that  each  home-maker 
should  choose  a  name  and  emblem  for  his  own  home-place  and  nothing  is' 
better  than  some  natural  object  which  he  admires  or  some  cultural  achieve- 
ment which  has  given  him  joy  and  satisfaction  and  which  is  characteristic 
of  his  particular  place  upon  the  earth.  Everyone  should  know  that  the 
State  favors  the  choosing  of  a  name  for  the  home-spot  and  protects  the 
choice.  This  is  the  California  law  as  approved  on  March  9,  1909 : 

"Any  person  may  adopt  a  name  for  any  farm  or  estate  owned  or  leased 
by  him,  and  register  it  in  the  manner  provided  for  the  registration  of 
trade  marks.  Such  registration  shall  have  the  same  effect  as  the  registra- 
tion of  a  trade  mark. 

"Any  person  selling  or  marketing  the  products  grown  on  any  particular 
farm  or  estate  may  use  the  name  of  such  farm  or  estate  as  a  trade  mark  on 
such  products  in  the  same  manner  as  provided  for  other  trade  marks,  and 
subject  to  the  same  rights  and  duties." 

Thus  the  great  State  of  California  recognizes  the  fact  that  its  future 
rests  upon  the  home,  which  every  good  citizen  delights  to  honor. 


CHAPTER  II. 
CLIMATIC  CHARACTERS  AND  ADVANTAGES. 

Wherever  you  choose  a  home  in  California,  you  will  not  be  denied 
the  joy  of  flower-growing.  This  joy  may  be  conditioned  upon  knowing 
what  flowers  to  grow  and  how  to  grow  them,  but  whoever  shirks  the 
mastery  of  such  knowledge,  either  does  not  know  that  joy  or  does 
not  deserve  it.  Elaborate  analysis  of  California  climates  is  not 
essential  to  the  purposes  of  this  writing  because  it  is  intended  to  avoid 
all  considerations  of  commercial  floriculture.  In  other  horticultural 
works,  which  the  writer  has  undertaken  from  the  point  of  view  of 
profitable  production,  the  general  characters  of  California  climates 
are  sketched  and  local  modifications  and  their  effects  upon  plant 
growth,  are  described  with  some  detail.  *  These  characters  are  also 
related  to  the  growth  of  flowering  plants  and  in  choosing  locations 
for  commercial  production  of  bloom  or  seed  must  be  most  seriously 
considered,  but  the  amateur  should  resolve  to  grow  every  plant  which 
gives  him  satisfaction,  rejecting  after  trial  those  which  refuse  to 
accept  the  conditions  which  he  provides.  It  is  for  him  to  derive  ad- 
vantage from  every  plant  he  attempts  to  grow,  his  successes  give  him 
joy,  his  failures  give  him  wisdom.  And  then,  failures  and  successes 
with  plants  are  often  so  near  together  that  some  little  art  of  protec- 
tion or  culture  may  lift  a  plant  from  one  category  to  the  other  and 
reward  him  with  the  consciousness  of  triumphant  discovery. 

Therefore,  it  is  not  well  to  try  to  decide  theoretically  exactly  what 
flowers  to  grow  in  any  place,  but  rather  to  try  whatever  you  admire. 
Least  of  all  is  it  wise  to  reject  plants  because  some  looal  wiseacre 
may  declare:  "them  plants  don't  do  nothin'  here."  At  the  same  time, 
of  course,  each  of  the  many  local  climates  of  California  does  have  its 
limitation  in  adaptation  and  one  can  often  escape  disappointment  by 
adopting  the  conclusions  of  earlier  resident  planters — providing  their 
success  with  some  plants  assures  you  that  they  really  have  plant-love, 
intelligence  and  industry  and  that  they  have  fairly  demonstrated  the 
ill-adaptation  which  they  confide  to  you.  Still  the  writer  is  skeptical 
and  perverse  enough  to  urge  the  amateur  not  to  accept  such  con- 
clusions too  readily.  There  is  such  a  knack  of  doing  things  aright 
in  point  of  time  and  method,  that  plants  sometimes  accept  gratefully 
conditions  generally  held  to  be  adverse  and  reward  successful  efforts 
most  generously.  And  there  is  such  satisfaction  .and  joy  in  it.  This 
writer,  is  always  alert  and  sympathetic  when,  in  his  wide  rambling 


*  "California  Fruits  and  How  to  Grow  them,"  chapters  1  and  2;  "California  Vege- 
tables in  Garden  and  Field,"  chapter  3;  Circular  121,  University  of  California  Experi- 
ment Station. 


NATURE  WORKS  WITH  THE  AMATEUR.  13 

through  the  state,  he  receives  an  appeal  like  this:  "Won't  you  come 
and  see  my  balsams,  my  neighbor  told  me  they  would  not  grow  here." 

Find  Out  When  Nature  Will  Work  With  You.— Probably  no  single 
cause  of  failure  with  plants  in  California  is  more  prevalent  than  doing 
things  at  the  wrong  time.  In  the  varying  conditions  of  heat  and 
of  moisture  in  soil  and  air,  which  characterize  our  local  climates,  there 
are  right  times  and  wrong  times  for  all  gardening  operations.  These 
times  do  not  coincide  with  'best  times  for  doing  things  in  other 
states  or  countries,  nor  are  they  synchronous  in  different  parts  of  this 
state.  Probably  every  garden  calender  correctly  made  anywhere  in 
the  north  temperate  zone  will  work  out  right  at  some  point  in  Cali- 
fornia— at  some  degree  of  latitude,  at  some  distance  from  the  ocean  or 
at  some  elevation  above  it.  This  means  that,  so  far  as  natural  con- 
ditions are  concerned,  we  can  do  everything  that  can  be  done  in  the 
temperate  zone,  the  world  around,  but  disappointment  will  follow  the 
attempt  to  widely  use  any  one  of  these  remotely-made  calenders, 
while  to  apply  them  one  after  the  other,  or  to  calculate  the  resultant 
or  mean  of  all  of  them,  ends  in  appalling  confusion. 

This  is  not  wholly  a  fanciful  conception:  it  may  be  counted  almost 
historical,  because  that  is  the  way  the  pioneers  from  .all  lands  en- 
deavored a  generation  ago,  to  determine  what  should  be  California's 
horticultural  practice.  Although  some  of  them  failed  in  all  ways 
they  knew,  and  all  of  them  failed  in  some  ways,  there  were  a  number 
of  methods  and  policies  which  demonstrated  their  suitabilities  by 
their  results,  which  lor  size,  abundance  or  duration  of  foliage  or 
bloom  yielded  satisfaction  beyond  expectation  and  gave  encourage- 
ment so  marked  that  failures  were  accepted  only  as  suggestions  to 
work  in  other  ways.  Hence  arose  the  supreme  confidence  in  Cali- 
fornia which  was  the  ruling  spirit  among  our  pioneer  horticulturists 
and  found  expression  in  the  common  saying:  "Well,  California  is 
different.",  which  signified  superior — if  you  can  master  the  way  of  it. 

And  so  during  the  first  decade  of  her  history  as  an  American 
state,  practically  every  plant  considered  desirable  in  civilized  countries 
was  brought  for  trial  in  California  and  every  cultural  method  known 
in  such  countries  was  practiced  on  our  soil.  Since  then  the  same 
natural  action  has  ;been  repeated  continuously  by  later  comers  who 
do  not  know  that  nearly  all  their  bright  ideas  of  desirable  plants  and 
the  culture  of  them  were  anticipated  by  the  pioneers.  But  even  this 
is  desirable;  because,  aside  from  the  individual  satisfaction  of  it,  there 
has  been  reached  a  better  understanding  of  local  conditions  of  soil 
and  climate  and  of  culture  requirements  of  plants  to  meet  these  con- 
ditions, than  could  have  been  otherwise  attained:  better  and  broader, 
probably,  than  any  practicable  scheme  of  heavily  endowed  systematic 
experimentation  could  have  secured.  And  the  conclusion  of  the 
whole  matter  is  that  there  is  no  place  in  California  where  soil  sits 


14  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

and  water  falls  or  flows,  in  which  a  home  need  be  bare  of  beautiful 
foliage  and  flower:  that  there  is  no  local  climate,  be  its  distinctive 
character  desert  fire  or  mountain  frost,  which  does  not  cherish  lovely 
plants,  that  between  these  extremes,  each  of  which  sets  its  own  limits 
on  plant  growth,  are  the  great  expanses  of  California  valleys  and  foot- 
hills, throughout  which  perennial  mildness  prevails  in  such  varying 
degrees  that  broad  leafed  evergreens  may  rule  the  landscape  in  one 
place  and  be  practically  absent  in  another  and  yet  the  tenderest  de- 
ciduous and  herbaceous  perennials  be  seasonably  safe  in  both — and 
have  a  growing  season  each  year  about  thrice  the  duration  of  their 
dormancy. 

What  the  Wild  Plants  Think  of  California.— There  are  two  ways 
in  which  we  can  demonstrate  the  horticultural  quality  of  the  climates 
of  California  by  reference  to  the  plants  themselves. 

First. — Continuing  the  Edenic  suitability  of  California  suggested  in 
the  preceding  chapter,  it  may  be  claimed  that  the  native  plants  by  their 
superior  numbers  of  unique  and  characteristic  species  testify  the  ap- 
preciation in  which  this  state  is  held  in  the  plant  world.  Of  course  we 
must  go  to  the  botanists  for  interpretations  of  such  evidence.  Dr.  W. 
L.  Jepson  of  the  University  of  California  has  said  this: 

"California  is  one  of  the  botanical  sub-provinces  of  the  earth 
which  is  remarkable  for  the  number  of  endemic  species  which  it  con- 
tains. The  California  area,  perhaps  the  Sonoran-zone  part  of  it,  has 
been  a  vast  breeding  ground  for  species.  Of  the  4000  species  in  Cali- 
fornia, probably  about  one-third  are  endemic  in  the  Cali- 
fornia area;  Great  Britain,  with  half  the  area  of  California  has  about 
1400  flowering  plant  species  and  not  one  of  them  indisputably  endemic. 
Scandinavia,  with  about  twice  the  area  of  California  has  1380  flowering 
plant  species  and  very  few  endemic.  The  region  covered  by  Gray's 
Manual  of  Botany  (east  of  the  Mississippi,  from  Tennessee  northward 
to  Hudsons  Bay),  has  3413  species  against  4000  in  California,  with 
only  one-sixth  of  the  area. 

"There  is  greater  degree  of  relationship  between  the  flora  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  and  Europe,  than  there  is  between  the  flora  of  the 
Atlantic  Coast  and  Europe.  The  relationship  of  the  California  flora 
as  a  whole  are  more  strongly  with  the  European  Mediterranean  flora 
than  that  of  any  other  region.  While  there  are  practically  no  species 
in  common  the  number  of  generic  types  and  orders  in  common  is  very 
considerable  and  very  significant  in  character."  * 

Thus  it  appears  that  the  native  plants  testify  to  our  wide  variations 
in  climates,  which  range  from  Alpine  summits  to  the  shores  of  sunlit 
seas,  and  the  botanical  resemblance  to  the  Mediterranean  flora  includes 


*  In  part   from   an   address  before   the   Sigma   Xi   society,   Berkeley,   February   25, 
1914  (unpublished). 


WHY  CALIFORNIA  PLEASES  MANY  PLANTS  15 

of  course  the  Riviera  and  all  the  earlier  exemplars  of  etheral  mildness 
of  which  poets,  prophets  and  historians  have  testified  since  the  birth 
of  the  race.  Thus  again  we  approach  the  Edenic  argument. 

What  Introduced  Plants  Declare. — In  adducing  the  testimony  of 
the  plants  to  the  horticultural  adaptations  of  our  California  climates, 
there  come  the  introductions  of  man  as  supplementing  creative  dis- 
tribution, therefore — 

Second. — The  instance  given  in  the  preceding  chapter  of  the  col- 
lections of  exotics  at  Santa  Barbara  is  a  token  of  similar  achievements, 
in  varying  degrees,  in  other  parts  of  the  state.  This  fact  is  apparent 
to  any  distant  person  who  may  read  the  lists  of  plants  offered  by  our 
nurserymen  for  planting  in  the  open  air — for  they  are  largely  the 
growths  prescribed  for  green  houses  in  all  wintry  parts  of  the  world. 
It  is  also  clear  to  any  appreciative  visitor,  even  be  he  unskilled  in 
plants,  who  notes  for  a  moment  the  wide  range  of  hues  and  forms 
which  can  be  seen  wherever  any  attempt  has  been  made  to  indulge  in 
ornamentals.  Our  conditions  lie  in  that  most  happy  climatic  region 
known  as  the  sub-tropical,  or  semi-tropical,  where  we  may  install,  for 
superior  growth,  the  characteristic  vegetation  of  the  temperate  zone, 
add  to  it  a  wealth  of  new  forms  and  colors  from  the  borders  of  the 
strictly  tropical  region,  and  draw  from  even  beneath  the  equator  itself 
plants  which  thrive  there  upon  certain  elevations.  It  is  true,  of  course, 
that  California  cannot  afford  an  out-door  home  for  plants  which 
thrive  only  in  the  humid  heat  of  the  tropical  coasts,  but  we  have 
little  reason  to  mourn  our  limitations  in  this  respect.  We  gain  more 
from  our  affiliation  with  ordinary  temperate  latitudes  than  we  can 
possibly  lose  by  our  unfitness  for  plants  from  tropical  jungles. 

What  the  Plant  Grower  Should  Try  to  Learn. — Although  the 
climates  of  California  are  so  strikingly  suitable  to  plant  growth,  as 
the  plants  themselves  declare,  it  must  be  admitted  that  there  are  great 
variations  of  conditions  within  narrow  distances  which  the  plant 
grower  must  try  to  learn — largely  by  observation  of  plant  behavior, 
because  it  is  very  difficult  to  adequately  determine  them  otherwise.  Con- 
trasting climatic  conditions  are  so  intimately  interwoven  into  the  soil- 
c'over  of  the  state  that  they  defy  the  geographer  to  depict  them.  For 
example,  on  the  floors  of  valleys  conditions  may  develop  widely  along 
contour  lines,  but  on  the  edges  of  valleys  they  are  almost  super- 
imposed for  a  little  distance  through  the  quick  rise  of  hill  or  mountain 
side.  Above  these,  there  may  reappear  contrasts  like  those  of  the  valley 
floor  which  they  look  down  upon,  and  then  rising  again  only  a  few 
hundred  feet  perhaps  one  may  come  into  an  area  where  no  broad- 
leaved  valley  evergreen  is  safe.  And  such  differences,  though  not 
perhaps  to  the  degree  intimated,  are  discernible  on  individual  prop- 
erties which  rise  from  valleys  over  adjacent  hillsides  to  mountains 


16  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

that  a  single  owner  may  have  practically  all  the  climates  of  a  county 
on  his  own  place — each  with  its  own  favors  and  hardships  for  garden 
plants. 

It  'becomes  then  unquestionably  imperative  that  the  intelligent 
grower  of  plants  shall  know  his  climate,  shall  choose  his  plants  and 
modify  his  cultures  to  meet  the  conditions  which  that  climate  imposes. 
It  is  true  to  say 'that  to  grow  flowers  in  California  one  must  know 
California.  It  is  more  exact  to  say  that  he  must  know  that  particular 
piece  of  California  upon  which  he  proposes  to  produce  and  enjoy 
the  'beautiful. 

What  the  Grower  May  Do. — But  lest  it  may  be  inferred  from  the 
foregoing  remarks  that  the  writer  prescribes  choice  or  rejection  of 
plants  strictly  according  to  local  conditions  of  heat,  frost  and  moisture, 
the  fact  must  be  emphasized  that  knowledge  of  local  conditions  is 
satisfactory  and  valuable  to  the  possessor  not  as  a  warning  to  avoid 
plants  so  much  as  to  enable  him  to  successfully  cherish  them — for  the 
reasons  cited  at  the  opening  of  this  chapter. 

Although  it  is  practicable,  from  the  point  of  view  of  the  amateur, 
to  effectively  modify  by  artifice  nearly  all  the  natural  conditions  of 
temperature,  moisture,  soil,  texture  and  fertility,  as  will  be  described  in 
following  chapters,  and  thus  cause  his  situation  to  produce  garden 
plants  to  which  it  may  have  only  partial  ilatural  adaptation,  there  are 
still  a  few  general  characters  of  California  climates  which  make  the 
effort  to  modify  natural  conditions  much  easier  and  cheaper  in  one 
place  than  another,  and  these  should  be  sketched  in  as  a  back  ground 
for  the  action  in  culture  modifications  which  the  amateur  will  enthus- 
iastically undertake.  Naturally  the  writer  seeks  data  for  general 
characters  from  those  who  have  made  closest  study  of  the  subject,  and 
the  following  notes  are  compiled  from  the  studies  of  California 
climatology  by  Alexander  G.  McAdie,  who  in  1913  became  Professor 
of  Meteorology  in  Harvard  University,  after  about  twenty  years 
service  as  director  of  the  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau  in  San  Francisco.  * 
Prof.  McAdie  is  however  not  to  be  held  responsible  for  this  presenta- 
tion of  his  conclusions.  The  writer  has  adapted  them  to  his  present 
purpose  and  has  indulged  in  interpolations  which  perhaps  will  surprise 
most  of  all  the  scientific  author  whose  words  are,  as  we  may  say, 
floridified. 

Why  We  Have  So  Many  Climates. — The  groups  of  meteorological 
phenomena  which  are  popularly  designated  as  the  "local  climates  of 
California"  are  produced  by  certain  great  causes,  modified  in  their 
effects  by  topographical  conditions.  These  great  determinative  causes 
proceed  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  one  hand  and  from  the  great 


*  "Climatology  of  California,"  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau  Bulletin  L,  1903;  "The  Rain- 
fall of  California,"  University  of  California  Publications  in  Geography,  1914. 


WHY  CALIFORNIA  CLIMATES  ARE  MILD  17 

mid-continental  plateau  on  the  other.  Areas  of  greater  or  less  atmos- 
pheric pressure  appear  both  over  the  ocean  and  over  the  plateau  and 
strive  with  each  other  for  the  joy  of  looking  down  upon  the  beauties 
of  California — pushing,  jostling  and  pursuing  each  other  alternately 
over  protecting  mountain  barriers  and  wooing  the  modest  maiden,  with 
heat  or  coolness,  smiles  or  tears  as  are  the  fitful  moods  of  ardent 
lovers. 

Why  Our  Climates  Are  So  Mild. — Fortunately  the  suitor  from  the 
ocean  usually  holds  the  points  of  vantage.  Prof.  McAdie  says: 

"It  is  because  of  the  general  motion  of  the  air  from  west  to  east 
that  the  climate  of  west  coasts  is  less  severe  than  the  climate  of  east 
coasts.  If  the  circulation  of  air  were  reversed,  the  Atlantic  coast  and 
the  middle  portion  of  the  country  would  have  their  temperature  ex- 
tremes much  reduced  and  the  climate  would  be  in  many  respects 
milder  than  that  which  now  exists.  On  the  other  band,  the  climate  of 
the  Pacific  coast,  and  especially  of  California  west  of  the  Sierra,  would 
lose  much  of  its  present  equability.  The  winters  would  be  rigorous 
and  the  summers  very  warm." 

As  it  is,  the  prevailing  winds  blow  over  a  surface  that  is  warmer 
in  winter  and  cooler  in  summer  than  a  land  surface  would  be.  During 
the  summer  the  mean  temperature  of  the  ocean  water  is  60°,  and  during 
the  winter  50°  F.;  while  probably  the  extreme  temperatures  of  interior 
land-surfaces  of  the  continent  would  frequently  range  more  than  50° 
lower  in  winter  and  as  much  higher  in  summer — and  would  produce  in 
California  extremes  against  which  the  ocean  is  now  our  enduring 
protection. 

Causes  of  Local  Variations. — But  though  these  general  causes  are 
always  in  operation  and  always  formative,  it  is  still  true,  as  Professor 
McAdie  says: 

"In  the  diversified  topography  of  the  state  we  have  perhaps  the 
most  important  factor  in  determining  local  climates.  The  state  has  a 
mean  length  of  nearly  eight  hundred  miles  and  an  average  width  of 
two  hundred  miles.  Its  area  is  a  little  less  than  a  hundred  million  acres. 
The  coast  line  corresponds  in  position  with  that  portion  of  the 
Atlantic  coast  extending  from  Boston  to  Savannah.  The  California 
coast  line  has  a  mean  annual  temperature  ranging  from  50°  to  60°  F., 
while  on  the  Atlantic  the  ranging  is  from  47°  to  68°.  In  the  winter  the 
difference  between  the  mean  annual  temperature  of  the  interior  of 
California  and  the  coast  is  only  about  5°  F.  but  in  summer  the  dif- 
ference is  more  marked,  amounting  to  about  20°  F.  The  prevailing 
westerly  winds,  wherever  allowed  access  to  the  interior  through  gaps 
in  the  Coast  Range  mountains,  modify  and  practically  control  the 
temperature," — being  however  excluded  from  time  to  time,  for  short 
intervals,  by  winds  from  the  interior  which  surmount  the  Sierra  and 


18  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

flow  downward  over  its  western  or  southern  slopes.  These  winds 
are  hot  and  dry,  or  cold  and  dry,  according  to  the  season  of  the  year; 
as  they  traverse  snow  fields  in  winter  and  sun-baked  plains  in  summer, 
before  entering  the  area  of  California. 

Opposite  in  direction,  source  and  character  are  the  southerly  winds 
of  the  rainy  season  which  bring  ocean  temperatures  from  the  south- 
west while  the  storm-centers  advance  from  the  north,  according  to 
the  cyclonic  movement  of  storms. 

All  of  these  and  other  general  phenomena,  together  with  more 
localized  phenomena  of  down-flow  ,and  up-rise  of  air,  according  to  its 
temperature,  and  other  conditions  of  frost  occurrence,  the  times  and 
amounts  of  rainfall,  the  force  of  the  winds  and  their  content  of 
moisture  vapor — all  these  are  influenced  or  determined  by  topography 
as  involved  in  elevation,  exposure,  and  relation  to  adjacent  features 
of  environment  and  are  to  be  expressed  in  terms  of  plant  growth 
through  experience. 

Certain  Plants  May  Define  Our  Climatology. — It  seems  possible 
that  at  some  future  time  the  vast  and  varied  area  included  in  the  state 
of  California  may  be  subdivided  or  districted  by  the  success  or  failure 
of  certain  plants,  according  to  a  scheme  of  life-zone.  This  has  in 
fact  been  proposed  and  entered  upon  with  indifferent  success  thus  far 
because  the  exotic  plants  included  in  the  effort  were  distributed  largely 
by  commercial  impulse  to  grow  them  and  therefore  the  use  of  them 
as  standards  of  natural  suitability  went  .astray.  Though  the  observed 
thrift  of  a  plant  might  'be  demonstrated,  the  absence  of  another  plant 
might  be  rather  due  to  unprofitability  than  to  lack  of  adaptation.  Nor 
does  the  botanical  scheme  of  distribution  serve  the  plant  grower  any 
better  purpose  for  wild  plants  are  often  very  safely  carried  beyond 
their  chosen  habitats  by  horticultural  arts  of  irrigation  or  protection. 
Still  it  is  possible  that  at  some  future  time  some  one  may  gain  posses- 
sion of  enough  knowledge  of  plant  requirements  and  of  gardening 
arts  to  produce  a  horticultural  map  of  California  which  will  designate 
districts  of  actual  and  potential  equivalence  more  intelligibly  than 
they  can  be  expressed  in  isobars  and  isotherms.  And  yet  it  may  be 
expected  that  these  lines  will  approach  meridians  of  longitude  rather 
than  parallels  of  latitude,  just  as  our  isobars  and  isotherms  do,  because 
our  climatic  equalities  run  roughly  northward  and  southward,  as  do 
the  coast  line  and  the  mountain  ranges  which  are  factors  in  their 
production. 

Elevation  and  Ocean  Influence. — The  two  regulating  factors  in  a 
local  climate  seem  to  be  elevation  (both  above  sea-level  and  adjacent 
plains)  and  modification  of  ocean  influence  by  distance  or  by  inter- 
vention of  great  barriers.  If  it  were  simply  a  matter  of  elevation, 
contour  lines  would  easily  define  our  districts  but  lines  of  adaptation 


GROWER  MUST  TEST  His  LOCAL  CLIMATE.  19 

may  cross  contour  lines — going  westward  when  a  coast  mountain 
barrier  is  unbroken,  and  eastward  when  a  gap  in  this  barrier  occurs, 
because  the  exclusion  or  admission  of  ocean  influences  tend  generally 
toward  the  reduction  of  summer  heat  and  winter  cold. 

But  a  tendency  toward  equality  in  temperature  does  not  secure  the 
best  results  from  all  plants.  For  example  the  free  access  of  the  ocean 
temperatures  in  the  coast  district  of  the  upper  part  of  the  state  denies 
oleanders,  Cape  jasmines,  etc.,  the  high  summer  temperature  which 
develops  their  freest  flowering,  while  it  does  give  heat  enough  for 
grand  blooming  of  geraniums,  camellias,  etc.,  with  which  the  winter 
temperature  does  not  interfere.  Thus  a  district  outlined  on  the  basis 
of  full  suitability  for  the  Cape  jasmine  might  exclude  the  geranium 
from  territory  in  which  it  glories  in  summer  and  draw  it  into  places 
where  it  would  need  winter  protection.  If  outlined  on  the  basis  of 
the  geranium  or  the  camellia,  it  would  bring  the  Cape  jasmine  into 
some  regions  in  which  it  would  be  a  sorry  sight  because  of  un- 
developed blossoms,  while  if  outlined  on  the  basis  of  the  camellia  it 
would  disregard  the  weakness  of  both  the  Cape  jasmine  and  the 
geranium.  Thus  a  few  common  plants  are  used  to  indicate  differences 
which  are  narrow  by  the  thermometer  but  still  determinative  of 
degrees  of  satisfaction  to  the  grower  from  the  point  of  view  of  all-the- 
year  hardiness  and  best  blooming.  Many  other  plants  could  be  used 
to  illustrate  the  same  differentiation  in  local  climatic  conditions  and  all 
of  them  would  still  be  counted  tender  or  semi-tropical  from  the  point 
of  view  of  a  wintry  climate. 

The  Grower's  Attitude.— It  is  hoped  that  the  instances  which  have 
been  cited  will  demonstrate  the  fact  that  division  of  California  into 
districts  of  equal  suitability  to  flowering  plants  is  exceedingly  dif- 
ficult even  if  it  should  some  day  be  shown  to  be,  possible  to  some 
edifying  degree.  Until  such  guidance  is  available,  the  only  reasonable 
advice  which  can  'be  given  to  the  amateur  is:  "prove  all  things,  hold 
fast  that  which  is  good."  Learn  from  observation  of  older  plantings 
of  trees  and  shrubs  which  have  received  fair  treatment,  learn  from 
current  experience  and  observation  the  behavior  of  herbaceous  plants 
which  interest  you.  Maintain  a  fairly  critical  and  discriminatory  at- 
titude and  a  high  standard  of  excellence,  above  all,  do  not  deceive 
yourself  by  regarding  a  thing  of  the  best  quality  simply  because  it  is 
of  your  own  growing. 

Absolute  Elevation  May  Be  a  Barrier. — In  all  speculations  con- 
cerning the  suitability  of  this  or  that  situation  in  California  for  the 
growth  of  the  flowers  which  you  enjoy,  two  general  facts  are  comfort- 
ing and  suggestive.  First,  California  climatic  conditions  are  as  a 
whole  very  favorable,  as  has  already  been  suggested:  second,  defects 
or  ill-adaptations  are,  as  a  rule,  slight  and  capable  of  modification  by 


20  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

simple  garden  recourses,  because  the  extremes  are  not  great  de- 
partures from  conditions  which  all  except  strictly  tropical  plants  either 
fully  enjoy  or  tolerate.  This  is  true  of  the  coast  region  generally,  of 
the  great  valleys  of  the  state  and  the  mesas  and  foothills  which  lie 
between  the  valleys  and  the  mountains.  On  the  mountains  and  in 
mountain  valleys  or  plateaux,  where  elevations  above  sea  level  are 
from  3500  to  6000  feet,  wintry  snowfall  and  zero  temperatures  neces- 
sitate the  choice  of  plants  and  pursuit  of  cultural  policies  generally 
characteristic  of  the  north  temperate  zone.  In  such  regions  many  sug- 
gestions conveyed  by  this  publication  are  apt  to  be  misleading. 

SUMMARY  OF  ADVANTAGES 

In  many  following  chapters  there  will  be  suggestions  of  the 
characters  of  California  climates  in  terms  of  garden  policies  and 
methods.  Briefly  it  may  be  stated  that  the  climatic  advantages  which 
the  California  gardener  enjoys,  except  in  the  mountains  which  are  high 
enough  to  be  wintry,  include  the  following: 

A  growing  season  which  includes  the  whole  year  for  broad-leaved 
evergreens,  except  those  of  strictly  tropical  origin,  and  many  of  them 
have  a  winter  blooming  habit  which  contributes  immensely  to  the 
continuous  floriferousness  of  the  year. 

A  growing  season  in  which  frost  is  so  rare  and  light  that  many 
deciduous  perennial  plants  of  wintry  regions  become  evergreen  and 
continuous  bloomers  or  have  so  short  a  dormant  season  as  to  be 
practically  evergreen:  some  annuals  assume  the  perennial  habit  or 
repeat  their  blooming. 

A  frostless  season,  except  in  very  high  or  low  places,  which  is 
practically  twice  or  thrice  the  length  of  the  frost-free  period  of  wintry 
climates — giving  tender  plants  proportionally  longer  flowering  season 
and  superior  development. 

A  growing  temperature  during  the  rainy  season  which  permits 
glorious  winter-gardening  even  in  locations  where  summers  are  too 
dry  for  flowers  through  lack  of  irrigation. 

Absence  of  cyclones,  which  renders  arbors,  pergolas  and  other 
garden  structures  of  very  light  construction,  safe  and  satisfactory. 

Absence  of  hail-storms,  except  in  the  mountains,  rendering  plants 
free  from  pelting  and  green-houses  safe  without  hail-stone  insurance. 

Dry  air  during  the  summer,  rendering  high  temperatures  practically 
free  from  depressing  effects. 

Last,  and  perhaps  best  of  all,  the  joy  of  living  and  working  with 
flowers  ,all  the  year  with  weather  which  invites  open  air  activities.  Let 
then  our  Dr.  F.  Franceschi  give  us  a  physician's  certificate  of  that,  in 
these  words  of  his: 


MODIFICATIONS  OF  TEMPERATURE.  21 

"One  thing  more  than  any  other  that  dominates  the  physical  and 
mental  being  is  climate.  The  delights  of  atmospheric  conditions,  where 
neither  heat  nor  cold  obtain,  affect  most  favorably  the  physical  and 
mental  condition.  The  body  revels  in  a  sense  of  painless  enjoyment, 
and  the  mind,  freed  from  the  depressing  influence  of  an  uncomfortable 
body,  has  the  whole  realm  of  existence  for  a  pleasure  ground." 

By  her  arid  semi-tropical  endowment  California  escapes  the  trying 
conditions  of  both  the  tropics  ,and  the  frigids.  This  is  a  fact  to  which 
the  many  who  have  sought  California  homes  from  all  parts  of  the 
world  continually  bear  witness. 

GARDEN  MODIFICATIONS  OF  CLIMATE. 

It  may  be  readily  inferred  that  in  climates  naturally  so  kind  to 
plant  growth,  modification,  for  cultural  purposes  could  be  slight  and 
easily  affected.  This  is.  absolutely  true  as  to  the  operations  of  the 
working  amateur,  for  he  has  such  a  breadth  of  activity  with  plants 
needing  no  artificial  heat  that  he  is  but  seldom  prompted  to  provide  it 
except  in  the  simple  ways  outlined  in  Chapters  IX  and  X.  Of  course 
the  commercial  grower  and  the  occasional  amateur,  whose  taste  re- 
quires orchids  and  the  like  must  have  temperatures  under  complete 
control  and  production — just  as  the  same  interests  are  served  in  other 
climates,  except  that  the  result  is  far  more  easily  and  cheaply  secured. 
But  with  that  we  have  nothing  to  do  in  this  book.  Our  suggestions 
are  restricted  to  conservation  of  natural  heat,  either  :by  direct  use  of 
trapped  sunshine  or  by  indirect  use  of  sun-heat  through  checking  loss 
of  it  by  radiation  from  the  earth.  But  even  these  elementary  affairs 
have  been  so  effectively  developed  in  commercial  fruit  growing  of 
California  that  they  present  themselves  with  a  wealth  of  detail  which 
cannot  be  fully  presented  in  this  connection.  *  For  ordinary  garden 
use  these  suggestions  may  be  helpful: 

Higher  heat  during  day  time  and  escape  from  a  freezing  tempera- 
ture at  night,  may  often  be  secured  by  planting  windbreaks  of  trees 
in  hedge  form  or  as  shelter  belts  traversing  the  direction  from  which 
cold  winds  may  be  expected  to  blow  in.  Glass  screens  or  lath  fences 
serve  the  same  purpose  for  small  areas.  The  height  should  be  pro- 
portional to  the  area  to  be  protected.  A  hedge  or  screen  ten  feet  high 
may  amply  protect  a  small  garden,  belts  of  tall  trees  will  be  needed 
for  an  area  of  several  acres. 

A  few  plants  may  be  saved  from  frost  by  spreading  over  them  a 
cover  of  cloth,  paper,  carpet,  rush-mats,  lath  frames,  etc.  These  act 
by  holding  ground  heat  from  radiation,  and  will  be  effective  against 
several  degrees  of  frost  continuing  for  hours. 

*  Discussion  of  achievements  in  this  line  are  found  in  publications  by  the  U.  S. 
Weather  Bureau  and  by  the  California  Experiment  Station. 


22  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

Plants  can  be  protected  from  freezing  by  freely  wetting  the  ground 
around  them,  by  running  water  alongside  in  a  ditch  or  by  placing  a 
bucket  of  water  close  to  the  plant.  This  is  effective  against  four  or 
five  degrees  of  frost  for  ,an  hour  or  two.  The  protection  is  secured  by 
the  latent  heat  set  free  by  the  cooling  of  the  water. 

Plants  can  be  saved  from  injury  by  freezing  by  the  building  of  fires 
of  damp  litter  on  the  windward  side  so  that  a  cloud  of  smoke  envelops 
them  during  the  low  temperature.  This  is  also  effective  against  four  or 
five  degrees  of  frost  for  several  hours.  The  action  is  two-fold,  first 
by  checking  radiation — second  by  preventing  touch  of  sunshine  which 
may  cause  rupture  of  tissues  by  too  rapid  thawing.  A  slow  rise  in 
temperature  may  permit  slow  thawing  without  rupture,  if  the  freezing 
has  not  itself  been  hard  enough  to  break  the  tissues.  The  same  result 
is  obtainable  by  drenching  with  cold  water,  plants  which  have  been 
lightly  frosted.  Obviously  this  must  be  done  before  sunrise. 

Plants  may  be  protected  by  direct  action  of  heat  from  brush  fires, 
fires  of  inflammables  in  small  pots  or  stoves,  etc.,  which  have  shown 
ability  to  raise  the  heat  of  the  lower  layer  of  the  surrounding  atmos- 
phere six  or  eight  degrees,  under  favorable  conditions  of  air  movement 
which  does  not  replace  the  warmer  air  too  rapidly.  This  method  of 
"heating  all  out  of  doors"  was  first  proposed  and  reduced  to  successful 
operation  in  California  by  the  growers  of  citrus  fruits.  It  is  of  course 
available  for  the  protection  of  all  tender  plants.  Wiring  areas  for 
protection  by  heat  from  electric  lamps  is  also  practicable  but  ap- 
parently more  costly  in  outfit  and  operation,  but  invention  in  this  line 
is  still  in  progress.  Manifestly  one  can  wire  a  garden  for  illumination 
and  night  enjoyment  and  at  the  same  time  provide  for  frost  prevention. 


CHAPTER  III. 
SOILS  AND  FERTILIZERS. 

No  matter  what  the  soil  surrounding  your  home  may  naturally  be, 
you  can  grow  glorious  flowers — if  you  will  try  to  understand  what  the 
soil  has  to  do  for  your  plants  and  what  you  must  to  to  prepare  it 
for  its  work.  Pro'bably  not  one  amateur  in  a  thousand  selects  his 
building  place  because  of  the  natural  suitability  of  the  soil  to  produce 
an  environment  of  flowers,  shrubs,  trees  and  vines.  He  rolls  his  eye 
over  the  landscape;  he  basks  in  the  sunshine;  he  makes  sure  that  he 
can  quench  his  thirst  from  well,  ditch  or  pipe-line;  he  listens  for  the 
gong-clang  of  the  trolley  car.  If  all  these  prospects  are  pleasing,  he 
builds  his  house  and  stakes  out  his  garden.  From  the  points  of  view 
of  the  amateur,  the  performance  is  thoroughly  rational,  because  what- 
ever the  soil  may  lack  he  can  make  up  to  it.  in  fact,  if  he  has  no  soil 
at  all  he  can  haul  it  in  or  make  it  on  the  spot. 

For  these  reasons,  although  a  good  depth  of  suitable  soil  is  in- 
despensable  in  a  commercial  plant-venture  of  any  kind,  and  though 
it  is  very  desirable  also  for  the  purposes  of  the  amateur,  its  absence 
does  not  deny  the  possession  of  a  good  garden  and  full  enjoyment  of 
it.  And,  this  being  true,  it  is  rational  for  the  amateur  to  attach 
relatively  less  importance  to  buying  soil  than  to  buying  other  good 
things.  For  example  a  soil-less  site,  out  of  fierce  winds  and  sharp 
frosts,  will  give  more  pleasure  than  a  soil-full  site,  which  is  within 
reach  of  either  of  them.  If  then  nature  has  at  some  remote  period 
before  California  secured  her  present  climate,  blown  away,  or  washed 
away  or  pushed  aw,ay  with  a  glacier  the  good  soil  substance  from  a 
ridge  into  a  flat  below,  the  ridge  poverty  may  still  'be  better  for  the 
amateur's  garden  than  the  soil-wealth  of  the  flat.  This  will  not 
always  be  true  and  we  are  not  trying  to  make  a  rule  that  an  amateur 
must  buy  rocks  or  hardpan  in  preference  to  good  soil.  We  are  trying 
to  enforce  the  fact  that  there  is  no  single  rule  and  that,  under  certain 
conditions,  one  may  be  wise  to  attach  more  importance  to  other  things 
which  please  him  than  to  the  soil,  because  soil  can  be  made  or  modified 
and  that  in  floral  gardening  the  soil  in  its  natural  condition  is  seldom 
accepted  as  fully  satisfactory,  though  it  may  be  the  best  on  earth.  The 
moral  of  this  homily,  therefore,  is  that  one  should  not  deny  himself 
the  joy  of  flowers,  nor  should  he  inflict  upon  the  public  eye  a  shabby 
place,  with  an  excuse  that  the  soil  is  not  good.  If  it  is  not  good,  make 
it  good. 

The  Nature  of  Soils. — In  order  to  improve  the  soil  from  a  flori- 
cultural  point  of  view  one  should  secure  some  measure  of  understand- 
ing of  its  nature  and  functions.  It  is  hopeless  to  expect  full  knowledge, 


24  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

for  the  composition  and  activity  of  soils  constitute  one  of  the  most 
complex  subjects* with  which  science  has  to  deal,  involving  chemistry, 
physics,  botany  and  bacteriology  in  some  of  their  most  subtle  mani- 
festations. Man  has  not  yet  attained  mastery  of  soil  science  and  is 
now  striving  for  full  understanding  more  strenuously  and  with  better 
research  equipment  than  ever  before.  Still  many  things  are  sufficiently 
understood  to  serve  as  a  guide  in  soil  improvement  and  to  make  the 
teachings  of  experience  more  intelligible  than  hitherto.  The  reader 
should  study  some  recently  written  treatise  on  soils  of  which  there  are 
many  available  and  all  of  them  edifying  along  the  line  of  elementary 
facts  and  principles  most  directly  affecting  practical  work. 

Perhaps  the  most  helpful  conception  the  amateur  can  get  of  the 
soil  is  that  it  is  a  sphere  of  action,  of  agencies,  materials  and  forces 
analogous  to  the  activity  in  the  atmosphere.  One  must  not  regard  the 
soil  as  merely  "dirt" — a  mass  of  dead  matter,  inert  except  as  a  growing 
plant  may  lay  hold  upon  it  or  push  it  aside.  The  soil  is  full  of  activities 
which  are  modifying  its  components  and  characters  and  qualifying  it 
to  actively  minister  to  the  growth  of  plants  not  merely  to  tolerate  it. 
These  activities  are  very  numerous  and  have  directly  to  do  with  the 
ability  of  the  soil  to  render  its  proper  service  to  the  growth  of  the 
plant.  A  few  may  be  mentioned  to  indicate  their  indispensability: 
1. — Mechanical  changes  in  soil  particles;  granulation  induced  by  earth 

insects,  burrowing  animals,  tillage  and  chemical  changes. 
2. — Chemical  changes  in  soil  contents;  induced  by  reactions,  fermenta- 
tions, humus  formation,  nitrification,  etc.,  by  bacteria. 
3. — Air  movement;  distributing  oxygen,  nitrogen,  carbon  dioxide,  etc., 

for  plant  nutrition,  directly  and  indirectly. 

4. — Water  movement;  employing  the  physical  forces  of  gravity,  cap- 
illarity, absorption,  evaporation,  etc.,  generally  for  the  advantage 
of  the  plant,  but  sometimes  otherwise. 

Suggestions  of  the  action  and  inter-action  of  such  agencies  and 
forces  as  these  should  lead  the  amateur  to  soil  study  and  careful 
observation  of  facts  encountered  in  his  experience. 

Horticultural  Aspects  of  Soils. — Generally  speaking  it  may  be  said 
that  suitability  of  soils  for  horticultural  uses  is  determined  by  two 
distinct  groups  of  characters  or  conditions:  first,  the  physical  or 
mechanical;  second,  the  chemical.  When  we  speak  of  "heaviness"  or 
"lightness,"  "coarseness"  or  "fineness",  "tightness"  or  "looseness",  etc., 
we  refer  to  the  physical  characters.  When  we  speak  of  "richness" 
or  "poorness",  "fertility"  or  "sterility",  we  refer  to  the  chemical 
character.  In  a  general  way  it  may  be  said  that  the  physical  characters 
help  the-  plant  to  grow,  the  chemical  characters  furnish  it  something 
to  grow  with,  one  may  be  called  "plant-support",  the  other  "plant- 
food." 


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U 


WHY  CALIFORNIA  SOILS  ARE  GOOD.  25 

It  is  clear  then  that  both  groups  of  characters  are  essential  to 
success  with  the  plant,  from  a  horticultural  point  of  view  and  that 
the  two  groups  are  closely  inter-related. 

The  Physical  Characters. — All  the  physical  characters  of  the  soil 
are  horticulturally  best  when  they  occur  in  moderation  and  worst 
when  they  occur  in  extremes.  Two  extremes  in  soils,  for  instance, 
are  clay  and  sand  and  intermixtures  of  the  two,  in  connection  with 
various  forms  of  organic  matter,  give  all  the  degrees  of  variation  in 
soil  texture.  If  the  soil  contains  much  more  than  25%'  of  clay  it 
becomes  a  heavy  clay  soil  and  physically  less  fit  for  most  horticultural 
uses.  If  it  contain  less  than  4%  of  clay  it  becomes  almost  clear 
sand.  The  best  horticultural  soils  are  silty  loams  which  have  pro- 
portions of  clay  within  the  limits  stated — with  sand  and  finer  particles 
sometimes  called  rock  powder,  and  organic  matter  to  form  the  bulk 
of  the  soil.  Fortunately  California  has  this  most  suitable  mixture 
largely  predominating  in  her  soils  naturally  and  this  constitutes  one 
feature  of  the  splendid  horticultural  adaptation  of  California. 

There  are  various  reasons  why  such  a  physical  condition  of  the 
soil  promotes  the  most  satisfactory  growth  of  plants.  First,  water 
capacity:  which  in  such  soil  is  ability  to  hold  water  equal  to  from 
30  to  40%  of  their  bulk,  and  they  also  have  a  coefficient  of  hygroscopic 
moisture  (moisture  which  cannot  be  taken  away  by  air  drying)  of  3 
to  7%.  This  assures  about  the  right  degree  of  moisture  retentiveness 
for  the  best  plant  growth. 

Second,  permeability:  the  association  of  fine  and  coarse  particles 
being  such  that  air  and  water  enter  freely  and  without  such  sufficient 
access  there  is  less  thrift  to  the  plant  and  less  bacterial  action  to 
furnish  food  for  it. 

Third,  penetrability:  the  same  mixture  of  soil  particles  renders  it 
easy  for  plant  roots  to  extend  freely  and  deeply  to  render  strong  sup- 
port to  the  plant  mechanically  and  to  enable  it  to  reach  supplies  of 
plant  food  and  moisture.  Too  much  clay  prevents  free  root  growth, 
too  little  clay  prevents  moisture  retention  and  is  apt  to  bring  the 
plant  into  distress  unless  the  most  exacting  measures  are  taken  to 
supply  moisture  constantly  in  the  right  amounts. 

After  the  condition  of  the  soil  in  the  foregoing  respects  is  found 
to  be  suitable  for  horticultural  uses,  the  next  physical  character  is 
the  depth  of  soil  available  to  the  plant.  Depth  means  not  only  that 
the  plant  shall  have  room  for  root  extension  and  a  large  amount  of 
plant  food  within  reach  but  depth  is  also  directly  concerned  in 
moisture  retention  as  a  sufficiently  retentive  soil  with  frequent  surface 
cultivation  acts  as  a  subterranean  reservoir.  Depth  is  directly  related 
to  the  growth  habit  of  different  plants.  Our  common  garden  plants 
use  from  two  to  four  feet  of  soil  though  they  may  thrive  on  less,  and 


26  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

shrubs,  vines  and  fruit  trees  extend  their  roots  to  a  depth  of  from  four 
to  twenty  feet  or  more  in  the  deep  free  loams  which  are  found  in 
many  places  in  California.  If  however  moisture  and  plant  food  are 
furnished  artificially  in  about  the  right  times  and  amounts,  very  thrifty 
growth  can  be  had  on  much  less  depth  of  soil.  This  we  see  both  in 
garden  and  in  green  house. 

It  is  a  part  of  horticultural  art  also  to  improve  the  soils  with 
what  it  has  to  deal,  also  to  make  soils  artificially  which  shall  exactly 
meet  the  needs  of  different  plants.  Upon  the  possibility  of  this  art 
rests  nearly  all  of  our  green  house  work  and  very  close  imitations 
of  ideal  natural  soils  are  produced  by  the  mixture  of  loaf  mold,  sand, 
peat  and  other  fibrous  materials  which  are  known  to  progressive 
plantsmen,  and  which  will  be  discussed  later. 

The  Chemical  Character. — The  other  chief  division  of  soil  character 
involved  in  horticultural  success  includes  the  chemical  conditions  and 
components.  Plant  food  in  abundance  is  a  prime  requisite  and  it 
must  be  present  either  naturally  or  by  the  intelligent  contribution  of 
the  horticulturist. 

The  first  need  of  soils  in  the  arid  region  is  usually  humus,  which 
is  produced  by  the  decay  of  organic  matter.  Humus  not  only  is  a 
source  of  nitrogen  which  the  plant  needs,  but  it  adds  to  the  moisture- 
holding  power  of  the  soil. 

California  soils  are  as  a  rule  rich  in  lime  but  the  heavier  soils  are 
improved  by  the  application  of  lime  and  become  more  friable,  better 
suited  to  root  growth  and  easier  in  cultivation. 

Potash  is  also  abundant  in  most  California  soils,  but  may  often  be 
applied  to  advantage.  Phosphoric  acid  is  oftenest  in  small  supply  .and 
this  material  seems  to  minister  directly  to  flowering  and  fruiting  of 
many  plants.  In  efforts  toward  enriching  California  soils  fertilizers 
containing  nitrogen  and  phosphoric  acid  should  be  first  used  and  their 
effects  are  usually  very  marked  and  satisfactory. 

SOIL  IMPROVEMENT  FOR  GARDEN  PLANTS. 

The  foregoing  outline  indicates  in  a  general  way  the  conditions  to 
be  aimed  at  in  soil  manufacture  or  improvement  for  ordinary  amateur 
purposes  and  suggests  the  chief  materials  to  be  used,  viz.:  clay,  sand, 
organic  matter,  according  to  the  soil  characters  desired.  A  composite 
substance  which  is  usually  mentioned  in  prescriptions  for  amateurs  is 
"garden  loam."  This  has  no  particular  character  but  may  approach 
uniformity  of  condition  from  the  fact  that  it  generally  means  the  com- 
mon soil  of  the  locality  ameliorated  by  tillage  and  free  use  of  farm- 
yard manure  for  a  number  of  years.  In  the  newer  parts  of  California 
there  is  seldom  any  "garden  loam"  to  be  had,  except  in  the  scattered 
market-gardens  or  in  the  corrals  where  animals  have  been  kept  for  a 
number  of  years.  In  such  a  case,  after  removing  the  impacted  cover 


How  TO  IMPROVE  GARDEN  SOILS.  27 

of  clear  manure,  one  is  apt  to  come  to  the  old  surface  soil  which  has 
had  leachings  from  the  manure,  has  been  mellowed  by  the  action  of 
earth  worms  and  has  about  the  right  composition  for  garden  loam, 
except  that  it  may  be  soured  from  Lack  of  aeration  and  may  lack  light- 
ness 'because  of  the  absence  of  fibrous  material.  It  does,  however, 
form  a  good  foundation  for  a  garden  mixture  if  associated  with  suf- 
ficient amount  of  other  materials. 

Sometimes  one  can  find  a  loam  deposited  by  overflow  of  creeks 
or  streams,  or  held  in  their  beds  by  growth  of  willows,  etc. — choice 
alluvial  material,  granular  and  mellow,  although  the  region  be  one  of 
hard  soils  generally.  This  is  a  good  basis  for  a  garden  mixture.  But 
in  most  cases,  the  home-garden  maker  must  begin  with  whatever  soil- 
cover  his  premises  naturally  have  and  he  can  surely  turn  it  into  most 
satisfactory  garden  soil  if  he  is  willing  to  take  the  trouble. 

In  nearly  all  cases  the  problem  in  garden  soil  improvement  consists 
in  making  it  more  light  or  porous;  freer  in  taking  water  from  cloud, 
hose-nozzle  or  ditch;  more  permeable  and  mellow  under  the  spade  or 
hoe  and  disposed  to  maintain  a  granular  condition  and  neither  baking 
nor  crusting  on  drying  after  rain  or  irrigation.  In  a  few  cases  this 
operation  will  consist  in  transforming  a  clay  into  a  loam,  but  generally 
in  changing  from  a  heavy  loam  to  a  light  loam,  because  usually  a  soil 
which  is  called  "adobe"  is  a  clay-loam  and  not  a  clay  soil.  In  a  few 
cases,  too,  the  problem  may  be  to  change  from  soil  which  is  too  sandy 
to  a  condition  of  greater  retentiveness.  This  is  the  easiest  transforma- 
tion possible,  if  one  works  aright,  because  sand  is  a  most  beneficent 
foundation  for  a  garden,  although  all  are  scripturally  warned  against 
building  a  house  upon  it  . 

In  addition  to  the  natural  loam  cited  above,  there  are  several  ma- 
terials which  have  'been  mentioned  from  time  immemorial  as  desirable 
components  of  garden  soils,  viz.:  sand,  barn-yard  manure,  leaf-mold, 
or  other  fibrous  substances  which  may  be  substituted  for  it.  Their 
several  functions  will  be  briefly  characterized: 

Sand. — The  chief  function  of  sand  is  to  separate  and  hold  apart 
from  too  close  contact,  the  other  finer  particles  of  which  the  soil  is 
composed.  It  promotes  the  movement  of  air  and  water  and  facilitates 
all  the  activities  belonging  to  these  movements  as  indicated  on  page 
24.  It  also  promotes  the  operation  of  the  soil  qualities,  mentioned  on 
page  25.  To  accomplish  this  the  sand  should  be  "clean"  or  "sharp" 
when  secured  for  soil  mixtures,  because  these  characters  render  it 
more  efficient  in  the  role  chosen  for  it.  One  can  use  to  advantage 
sand  which  contains  fine  silt  or  clay  powder  if  it  is  locally  abundant, 
but  if  one  has  to  buy  or  haul  sand  for  its  specific  uses  it  should  be 
washed  clean  of  fine  powders  and  its  grains  should  be  sharp  or  angular. 
Such  sand  as  builders  choose  has  these  characters.  Sand  may  be 


28  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

washed  by  subjecting  it  to  heavy  rains  or  it  may  be  washed  with  a 
hose  or  a  small  stream  of  water — the  point  being  to  run  away  the 
fine  particles  with  the  flow  of  the  water.  Both  fine  and  coarse  s-and 
are  useful,  but  the  latter  is  preferable — especially  when  sand  is  used 
for  propagation,  as  will  be  described  in  another  chapter. 

Various  granular  materials  may  be  used  for  the  purposes  which 
sand  serves,  for  they  .act  in  the  same  way  though  not  to  the  same 
degree,  and  are  therefore  inferior. 

The  writer  has  made  a  practice  for  the  last  twenty  years  of  using 
on  flower  beds  all  the  sifted  coal  ashes  taken  from  the  house  fires. 
Coal  ashes  by  themselves  have  no  appreciable  fertilizing  value.  They 
do,  however,  have  a  very  good  effect  if  the  cinders  are  sifted  out  and 
the  ashes  which  go  through  a  quarter-inch  mesh  screen  are  dug  into 
a  heavy  soil.  They  make  the  soil  more  friable  and  overcome  its 
tendency  to  bake.  We  used  the  screened  ashes  as  an  absorbent  under 
the  hen  roosts  and  they  went  to  the  garden  with  a  fertilizing  quality. 
Coal  .ashes  are  not  harmful  unless  used  in  such  large  quantities  that 
the  soil  becomes  too  loose  and  porous. 

Old  plaster  from  house  repairs  and  the  refuse  left  in  house  building, 
is  good  for  garden  use,  tending  to  mellowness  in  two  ways:  by  the 
action  of  the  lime  (which  will  be  mentioned  presently)  and  of  the 
sand.  It  has  always  been  considered  a  good  dressing  for  garden  land. 
It  is  also  a  corrective  of  sourness  but  is  much  less  active  than  fresh 
lime,  but  it  .acts  in  the  same  way  to  a  limited  extent.  It  can  be  freely 
used  if  the  land  is  heavy  and  needs  friability;  but  should  be  well  scat- 
tered. 

Sawdust  and  fine  mill  shavings  and  old  spent  tan-bark  are  also 
desirable  in  disintegrating  heavy  soils.  They  are  not  worth  considera- 
tion as  a  fertilizer,  because  they  are  so  difficult  of  decay,  even  when  in 
the  soil,  and  if  the  soil  is  light  and  loose  in  character  it  is  apt  to  be 
rendered  much  more  so  by  this  addition.  In  a  heavy  soil  the  addition 
of  a  limited  amount  of  fine  shavings  renders  it  more  friable,  but  they 
should  be  well  distributed  through  the  soil;  masses  of  them  generate 
fermentation  and  mildew,  which  may  injure  rootlets  of  plants. 

Farm- Yard  Manure. — Precious  to  the  plant-grower  as  a  complete 
food  for  plants  and  as  an  agency  to  improve  the  texture  both  of  heavy 
and  of  light  soils,  is  the  manure  from  farm  animals;  cow  manure 
being  preferable  for  general  garden  uses  and  horse  manure  particularly 
for  hot  beds,  as  will  be  stated  in  another  chapter.  Farm-yard  manure 
should  be  thoroughly  decomposed  for  garden  uses — unless  it  be  in 
starting  a  garden  on  a  heavy  soil,  when  considerable  quantities  even 
of  fresh  manure  can  be  deeply  plowed  or  dug  into  the  soil  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  rainy  season,  when  considerable  amounts  of  water  may 
be  expected  to  enter  the  soil  for  several  months.  Fresh  manure  should 


FARM-YARD  MANURE  INDISPENSABLE.  29 

not  be  used  on  sandy  soils,  nor  is  it  suited  for  near-surface  uses  on 
any  soil.  Rotting  the  manure  in  plank  bins  or  covered  pits  which 
cannot  fill  with  water  is  accomplished  in  a  few  months,  if  moisture  is 
added  to  regulate  fermentation.  If  it  is  allowed  to  become  too  dry 
in  a  mass  it  will  "burn  out"  and  become  almost  worthless;  if  it  is  too 
full  of  water,  air  will  be  excluded  and  decay  will  be  prevented.  Manure 
can  be  very  successfully  rotted  in  open  piles  on  the  ground  surface, 
if  it  is  forked  over  from  time  to  time  to  equalize  the  temperature  and 
sprinkled  to  insure  adequate  moisture  for  fermentation.  This  opera- 
tion also  breaks  up  the  masses  and  gives  a  finely  comminuted  material, ' 
practically  free  from  offensiveness  and  available  for  use  on  open 
ground  or  in  potting  and  propagating  operations.  Such  manure  in 
great  quantities  is  the  price  of  full  satisfaction  in  flower-growing,  even 
if  the  soil  is  naturally  good;  it  is  indispensable  in  any  effort  to  make 
a  good  growing  soil  artificially.  The  enthusiastic  amateur  comes 
almost  to  have  affection  for  good  manure — the  effect  of  it  is  so  magical. 
It  was  a  genuine  sentiment  which  caused  a  flower-loving,  suburban 
amateur  to  reply  to  her  husband  who  asked  her  what  gem  he  should 
buy  her  for  her  ;birthday:  "Well,  John,  if  you  don't  mind,  I  would 
rather  have  you  buy  two  loads  of  Smith's  best  manure;  it  would  giye 
me  more  pleasure."  And  undoubtedly  this  pleasure  was  realized,  for 
Smith  had  the  knack  of  rotting  manure  and  delivered  a  light  chocolate- 
colored,  fine  grained  material  which  made  the  plants  jump  and,  as  it 
was  in  a  suburban  situation,  he  was  a'ble  to  get  gem-prices  for  it. 
Such  things  the  working  amateur  can  do  for  himself  if  he  keeps  a 
cow  as  a  part  of  his  garden  machinery;  if  not,  he  must  out  money 
in  it. 

If  it  should  not  'be  practicable  to  put  the  manure  through  the 
composting  process  during  the  dry  season,  it  should  be  spread  out  in 
the  corral  during  the  summer  and  allowed  to  dry  quickly.  Manure 
which  is  broken  up  and  dried  in  the  sun  does  not  lose  fertility;  it  is 
only  when  it  is  piled  and  allowed  to  ferment  that  important  con- 
stituents are  lost.  If  the  corral  is  cleanly  scraped  at  the  beginning  of 
the  rainy  season  it  can  then  be  spread  for  fall  covering-under  to  decay 
in  the  soil  or  it  can  be  piled  and  watered  for  composting  and  it  will 
come  into  prime  condition  for  use  before  the  end  of  the  rainy  season. 

The  manure  of  other  farm  stock  does  not  serve  exactly  the  same 
purpose  because  it  has  less  fibrous  materials  and  does  not  act  upon 
soil  texture  in  the  same  way.  Animals  of  more  complex  diet  also 
produce  manure  of  more  concentrated  quality,  capable  of  killing  plants 
if  used  too  freely  or  if  too  much  is  collected  in  one  place.  Poultry 
manure,  free  from  earth,  contains  even  as  high  as  four  times  as  much 
plant  food  as  ordinary  stable  manure.  One  way  to  secure  distribution 
is  to  thoroughly  mix  the  manure  with  three  or  four  times  its  bulk  of 
ordinary  garden  soil  and  use  this  mixture  at  about  the  same  rate  as 


30  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

stable  manure.  There  is  no  reason  to  fear  the  material.  It  is  good 
for  any  plant,  provided  it  is  sparingly  and  evenly  distributed.  Similar 
remarks  could  be  made  about  the  manure  of  swine,  sheep  and  goats. 
All  are  serviceable  for  plant  food  if  wisely  used. 

Leaf-Mold  and  Other  Fibrous  Materials. — Except  in  forested 
areas,  leafVmold  is  not  as  available  in  California  as  at  the  east  where 
woods  and  wood  lots  are  more  evenly  distributed.  The  same  is  true 
of  old  grass  sods  which  are  decomposed  to  supply  fibrous  materials. 
Except  on  low  moist  lands,  the  natural  grass  growth  in  California 
occurs  during  the  rainy  season  and  is  composed  of  annuals  which 
are  not  sod  or  turf  formers.  Usually,  then,  the  amateur  has  to  make 
his  own  leaf  mold  or  rely  upon  cow  manure  to  furnish  the  fiber  which 
acts  so  benignly  with  sand  in  the  formation  of  desirable  soil  texture. 
But  home-made  leaf  mold  is  not  impracticable.  All  falling  leaves 
should  be  raked  up  and  returned  to  the  soil.  This  can  be  done  by 
digging  them  into  beds  or  'borders  or  they  may  be  specially  com- 
posted in  a  shallow  pit  in  a  corner  of  the  garden,  into  which  are  cur- 
rently thrown  all  rakings  of  leaves,  lawn  clippings,  small  primings, 
weeds  from  walk-cleaning,  spent  flowering  stems  .and  even  the  vege- 
table trimmings  from  the  kitchen,  if  there  are  no  fowls  to  make  use 
of  them.  The  proper  decay  of  all  this  material  depends  upon  moisture 
and  wetting  down  with  the  hose  during  the  dry  season  is  necessary. 
If  such  a  pit  is  emptied  at  the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season  a  good 
amount  of  leaf  mold  can  be  secured,  of  which  the  finer  part  can  be 
separated  with  a  screen  of  half-inch  mesh  and  sacked  up  for  use  in 
mixtures  for  the  seed  boxes,  or  for  potting,  while  the  coarser  stuff 
can  be  dug  into  the  open  soil.  Well  rotted  straw  will  serve  about  the 
same  purposes.  In  fact,  all  vegetable  matter  should  be  turned  into 
J:he  service  of  the  soil;  even  rank  weeds  are  usually  safe,  for  the 
composting  sprouts  and  kills  the  seeds.  Much  stuff  is  burned  for 
ease  and  neatness  which  should  be  rotted  down  for  plant  food  and 
fiber. 

If  one  has  no  supplies  of  this  kind,  fibrous  peat  can  be  bought  of 
the  florist-supply  houses.  It  is  imported  in  large  quantities  from  the 
peat  bogs  of  Europe,  and  is  a  very  neat,  clean  material  to  use  with 
sand,  soil  and  a  dash  of  commercial  fertilizer  for  house  plants;  seed 
boxes  or  other  small  uses. 

IMPROVEMENT  OF  HEAVY  SOILS. 

Nearly  all  that  has  been  said  thus  far  in  this  chapter  has  direct 
reference  to  the  improvement  of  heavy  soils — for  that  is  the  chief 
problem.  It  should  be  added,  however,  that  the  first  treatment  of  a 
soil  disposed  to  bake  and  crack  is  to  apply  lime  at  the  rate  of  one 
pound  to  each  fifty  square  feet — just  after  digging,  because  it  can  then 
be  done  with  only  danger  of  burning  the  eyes  and  not  both  eyes  and 


IMPROVING  CLAY  AND  SAND  SOILS.  31 

feet.  Do  this  in  advance  of  a  rain  or  wash  in  the  lime  with  a  good 
hosing.  After  allowing  it  to  stand  a  few  days  give  the  plat  a  good 
covering  of  farm  yard  manure,  say  a  layer  two  or  three  inches  in  thick- 
ness and  dig  again.  If  you  are  a  good  digger  the  new  surface  will 
not  show  either  lime  or  manure.  Then  cover  the  new  surface  with 
an  inch  depth  of  sand  and  rake  evenly,  which  will  mix  the  sand  with 
the  soil  and  the  plot  is  ready  for  planting.  After  the  plants  are  well 
up  from  the  seed  or  bulb,  or  immediately  after  planting,  if  the  planting 
be  of  rooted  plants,  cover  the  surface  with  more  manure — to  be 
worked  into  the  soil  with  the  winter  weeds,  if  the  start  is  made  early 
in  the  rainy  season;  or  to  remain  on  the  surface  as  a  mulch  if  the 
rainy  season  is  near  its  close.  This  will  give  you  a  start  toward  mel- 
lowing a  refractory  soil.  It  should  be  repeated  for  several  years  until 
you  get  a  full  spade's  depth  of  loam  which  will  no  longer  bake  hard 
or  crack  open.  Liming  and  sanding  will  soon  cease,  but  manuring 
will  continue  as  long  as  you  desire  to  have  good  flowers. 

IMPROVEMENT  OF  LIGHT  SOILS 

As  already  intimated  this  is  a  much  easier  problem  because  it  re- 
quires neither  lime  nor  sand,  but  just  straight,  well-rotted  manure, 
year  after  year.  The  formation  of  humus  by  the  further  decay  of  the 
manure  enables  to  soil  to  hold  faster  to  moisture  and  the  increase  of 
fibrous  material  knits  the  particles  together  in  better  texture.  Sand 
and  cow-manure,  cow-manure  and  sand;  keep  at  it,  forwards  and  back- 
wards, if  you  wish  to  get  a  loam  that  is  worth  its  weight  in  flowers. 
Wood  ashes  can  be  used  to  particular  advantage  on  sandy  soil,  but 
the  coal  ashes  should  go  elsewhere;  so  should  sawdust  and  all  other 
coarse  stuff.  U^e  well  rotted,  fine  grained  animal  manures:  the  pig, 
sheep  and  goat,  with  plenty  of  water,  make  .a  better  contribution  to  a 
light  than  to  a  heavy  soil,  but  one  must  be  careful  that  the  amount 
used  is  not  too  large.  Chemical  fertilizers  are  also  more  profitably 
employed  and  water,  which  is  the  greatest  of  all  plant  foods,  can  be 
safely  used  in  large  amount.  It  is  hard  to  set  bounds  upon  what  can 
be  done  with  a  light  loam  and  cow  manure  under  the  favoring  climates 
of  California. 

IMPROVEMENT  OF  ALKALI  SOILS 

Here  .and  there  in  California  valleys,  the  home-maker  confronts  the 
problem  of  making  ornamental  plants  grow  on  soils  which  contain  too 
much  of  the  soluble  salts  of  soda  which  go  under  the  general  name 
of  alkali.  It  is  not  easy  to  subdue  them.  The  only  sure  way  to  free 
the  soil  of  them  consists  in  underdraining  with  tiles  and  using  an 
abundance  of  fresh  water  on  the  surface,  which  will  dissolve  and 
carry  away  the  salts  with  the  water  through  the  drains.  If  the  alkali 
is  very  strong  this  is  indispensable.  If  it  is  less  strong  and  largely 


32  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

accumulated  near  the  surface,  good  results  can  be  had  by  digging  in 
considerable  amounts  of  stable  manure,  rotten  straw  and  sand  as 
prescribed  for  the  improvement  of  heavy  soils  above.  This  makes  the 
soil  friable,  reduces  evaporation  from  the  surface  .and  therefore  pre- 
vents the  accumulation  of  alkali  in  the  upper  soil  where  it  will  do  most 
harm  to  plants.  Use  fresh  water  freely  on  a  surface  largely  of  sand 
and  litter  and  quite  gratifying  results  can  be  obtained  with  plants 
which  are  somewhat  tolerant — providing  the  alkali  in  the  whole  soil 
mass  is  not  too  strong  naturally  or  has  been  weakened  by  washing 
into  the  drains.  There  is  much  difference  in  the  toleration  of  plants 
and  everyone  having  to  deal  with  alkali  should  keep  an  eye  open  for 
observation.  Oleander  and  lemon  verbena  have  succeeded  in  strong 
alkali,  while  roses  perished  entirely.  Chrysanthemums  grow  moder- 
ately well  and  a  few  of  the  hardy  annuals.  Bermuda  grass  is  most 
promising  in  lawn-making  on  alkali.  Of  ornamental  trees,  cotton- 
wood,  black  locust,  honey  locust,  Russian  mulberry,  California  fan  and 
date  palms,  European  sycamore,  eucalyptus  rostrata  and  tereticornis, 
umbrella,  pomegranate  and  tamarisk  and  various  atriplexes  are  de- 
pendable for  ornament  and  shade. 

GREEN  MANURING 

All  garden  soils  are  improved  by  digging-in  green  plants  and 
winter-growing  weeds,  clovers,  grass,  etc.,  should  always  be  spaded 
under  rather  than  cleared  off,  unless  they  are  taken  to  the  compost- 
heap  for  decaying,  as  has  been  mentioned.  Tall  weeds  which  may 
interfere  with  digging  as  they  stand  should  be  chopped  flat,  pulled 
into  the  furrow  and  covered  in.  When  the  rains  come  early  or  the 
ground  is  wet  down  deeply  'by  irrigation  in  September  a  good  covering 
of  clover,  vetches,  rye  or  barley,  etc.,  can  be  quickly  grown  to  be  dug 
into  the  soil  in  the  early  winter. 

VARIOUS  FERTILIZING  MATERIALS 

Finely-sifted  coal  ashes  and  road  dust  are  good  absorbents  for 
manurial  fluids  and  gases,  and  may  be  freely  used  for  such  purpose  and  so 
may  powdered  gypsum.  Lime  and  wood  ashes  should  not  be  so  used 
because  they  set  free  the  nitrogen  compounds  which  are  the  most 
valuable  content  of  manures.  This  action  is  conditioned  largely  upon 
the  presence  of  moisture,  and  if  the  material  is  kept  dry  and  hurried 
into  the  soil  the  loss  is  lessened,  but  there  is  always  danger  of  some 
losses. 

Liquid  manure  is  a  readily  available  stimulant  of  plant  growth  and 
is  largely  used  by  florists.  It  should,  however,  not  be  too  strong,  nor 
too  freely  used.  It  can  be  easily  made  of  well  rotted  cow  manure  or 
of  fresher  droppings  of  other  animals  by  filling  a  cask  one  quarter 
full  of  manure  and  filling  with  water  from  a  hose  which  is  allowed  to 


VARIOUS  FERTILIZERS.  33 

reach  down  near  the  'bottom  of  the  cask.  After  settling,  the  water 
can  be  dipped  off  the  top.  It  should  have  the  appearance  of  weak  tea. 
By  shooting  in  more  water  from  time  to  time  the  supply  will  last 
some  time.  It  should  be  applied  with  a  watering  pot,  with  sprinkler 
removed,  .and  directed  into  the  soil  at  the  base  of  the  plant;  not 
sprinkled  on  the  foliage.  This  is  safer  than  running  the  liquid  manure 
in  a  trench,  for  one  is  less  apt  to  carry  around  too  much.  Liquid 
manure  can  also  be  made  from  chimney  soot  in  the  same  way. 

The  waste  of  calcium  carbide  from  acetylene  outfits  can  be  used  as 
lime. '  "It  has  no  other  appreciable  fertilizing  value.  The  same  is  true 
of  the  refuse  lime  from  sugar  refining. 

Nitrate  of  soda  is  a  good  plant  stimulant.  It  is  largely  used  by 
florists  at  the  rate  of  one  teaspoonful  to  three  gallons  of  water.  If 
used  too  often,  it  may  kill  the  plants  or  cause  overgrowth.  Watch 
the  plants:  their  appearance  will  indicate  wh'en  to  use  a  pushing  fer- 
tilizer. 

Bones,  dead  fowls  or  small  animals,  etc.,  can  be  turned  to  good 
account  by  burying  at  the  roots  of  trees  or  shrubs  of  all  kinds. 

Special  mention  of  fertilizing  materials  and  policies  will  appear 
later  in  the  discussion  of  the  plants,  to  which  experience  has  indicated 
their  particular  adaptation. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
TILLAGE  AND  IRRIGATION. 

The  realization  of  full  advantage  from  a  soil  of  open  texture  and 
from  generous  fertilization,  which  have  been  strenuously  advocated 
in  the  preceding  chapter,  is  conditioned  upon  two  things:  ample 
moisture  and  good  tillage.  These  two  things  are  themselves  inter- 
related, co-working  toward  the  same  ends,  always  aiding  but  never 
displacing  each  other;  a  well-matched  team,  each  pulling  its  part  of 
the  load — sharing,  equalizing  and  mutually  distributing  the  burden 
which  neither  could  'bring  through  alone,  although  either  could, 
perhaps,  start  and  move  it  for  a  time.  Although  there  are  conditions 
under  which  the  amateur  may  find  himself  compelled  to  work  more 
strenuously  with  one  than  the  other,  which  will  be  discussed  later,  the 
requisite  for  the  best  results  through  the  longest  time,  if  one  wishes 
to  secure  the  advantage  of  his  best  choice,  or  most  generous  improve- 
ment, of  soil  for  his  garden,  is  soil-working  and  soil-watering  with 
the  fullest  intelligence  and  liberality.  And  this  conclusion  is  the 
teaching  of  garden  experience  in  California  covering  nearly  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  years.  Let  this  lesson  be  sketched  in  this  way: 

A  Historical  Demonstration. — The  fields,  gardens,  orchards  and 
vineyards  attached  to  the  Spanish  missions  which  were  established  in 
California  in  1769,  were  irrigated.  The  mission  farmers  knew  no  till- 
age except  the  opening  of  the  soil  in  the  first  instance  to  receive  the 
seed  or  the  plant.  When  it  began  to  grow,  water  was  run  over  the 
surface.  When  the  surface  dried  and  cracked,  more  wiater  was  run 
over  it.  When  the  surface  soil  became  a  solid  mass  of  root-fibers 
drawn  up  in  the  almost  vain  attempt  to  get  the  water  which  rippled 
over  the  surface,  which  they  had  rendered  almost  impervious,  these 
masses  were  hewn  out  with  mattocks,  fresh  soil  put  over  the  main 
roots  and  more  water  run  over  it,  which  was  able  to  penetrate  the  new 
soil  and  give  the  main  roots  a  new  inducement  to  produce  another 
outfit  of  root-fibers,  which  in  their  turn  grew  until  they  in  turn  became 
matted,  shut  off  their  own  moisture  supply  and  were  themselves  finally 
hewn  out — this  proceeding  in  endless  succession. 

When  Americans  took  possession  of  California  to  dig  for  gold  and 
the  prices  of  food  supplies  became  appalling,  the  farmers  among  them 
soon  took  the  hint  that  more  wealth  could  be  had  by  digging  for  crops 
than  for  gold.  The  impression  prevailed  that  the  state  was  of  no  use 
for  farming,  except  for  stock  ranging,  unless  irrigation  was  practiced 
as  at  the  missions,  but  the  American  farmers  soon  saw  that  the  plants 
would  grow  better  if  the  surface  were  stirred  at  proper  times  and  in 
proper  ways,  and  they  began  to  practice  cultivation  and  irrigation  with 


WHAT  AMERICANS  LEARNED  IN  CALIFORNIA.  35 

results  so  surprising  in  size  of  vegetables  and  in  yield  of  grain  that 
reports  sent  to  the  east  had  to  be  accompanied  with  affidavits  to 
secure  attention,  and  even  then  not  always  credence.  When  it  was 
demonstrated  by  the  behavior  of  the  plants  that  applications  of  water 
were  not  needed  as  frequently  as  the  mission  farmers  made  them,  less 
water  was  used  and  more  surface  stirring  undertaken  and  then  came 
the  discovery  that  plants  which  made  their  chief  growth  in  the  warm, 
moist,  winter  weather  and  those  which  rooted  deeply  even  though 
they  had  to  grow  all  through  the  dry  summer,  could  in  many  cases 
reach  most  satisfactory  production  without  any  artificial  application  of 
water,  if  the  normal  rainfall  was  adequate  and  the  soil  retentive 
enough  naturally  and  sufficiently  cultivated  during  the  growth  of  the 
plant.  Thus  arose  in  California  sixty  years  ago  the  first  demonstra- 
tion of  the  principles  which  are  now  the  chief  asset  of  "dry  farming" 
and  which  are  sometimes  claimed  to  be  recent  discoveries. 

But  although  these  early  Californians  did  demonstrate  that  under 
certain  conditions  plants  can  be  grown  under  scant  rainfall  by  tillage 
instead  of  irrigation,  they  also  determined  another  fact  of  even  wider 
importance,  viz:  that  irigation  is  not  a  proper  substitute  for  tillage 
and  that  instead  of  being  feasible  to  keep  pouring  more  water  to  save 
the  cost  of  tillage,  it  is  required  for  the  thrift  of  the  plant  that  the 
more  frequent  the  application  of  water  the  more  frequent  must  be  the 
tillage.  Instead  of  a  rule  of  "more  water  less  tillage",  which  the 
Spanish  settlers  of  California  seemed  to  proceed  upon,  the  true  rule 
as  demonstrated  by  their  American  successors  is  "more  irrigation 
more  tillage."  This  is  now  the  accepted  policy  and  practice  in  all 
irrigated  regions  of  the  earth  whence  has  come  knowledge  of  Cali- 
fornia's achievements  in  horticulture  and  the  way  they  are  secured. 

The  Reasons  for  Soil-Working  With  Watering.— Space  is  not 
available  to  explain  in  detail  why  tillage  and  irrigation  must  be  always 
associated  and  keep  pace  with  each  other  toward  the  full  development 
of  the  plant  and  its  products.  A  few  of  the  reasons  may  be  stated, 
however,  without  attempt  to  fully  support  them: 

First. — Tillage  opens  the  soil  for  the  reception  of  water  and  is 
even  more  important  for  the  admission  of  water  by  irrigation  than 
by  rainfall,  because  an  irrigated  surface  becomes  more  densely  and 
deeply  compacted  by  the  puddling  action  of  a  volume  of  water  than 
by  the  action  of  rainfall,  even  when  the  latter  comes  in  heavy  down- 
pours. In  fact,  soil  compacted  by  irrigation  becomes  loosened  and 
disintegrated  by  the  action  of  subsequent  rainfall. 

Second. — For  the  same  reason  the  penetration  of  irrigation  is  less 
than  that  of  the  same  amount  of  water  falling  as  rain  or  snow,  and 
the  consequent  formation  of  an  excessive  amount  of  surface  roots  not 
only  continually  lessens  this  penetration  but  increases  the  danger  of 


36  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

drought  injury  and  limits  the  plant  food  available  to  the  plant  by 
confining  its  root  activity  to  a  shallow  surface  layer  of  soil. 

Third. — For  the  same  reason  also  the  aeration  of  the  soil  is  reduced 
and  this  renders  it  less  hospitable  to  the  plant,  for  adequate  aeration 
is  as  necessary  as  adequate  moisture. 

Fourth. — Tillage  is  corrective  of  irrigation  effects  upon  the  soil 
and  is  for  the  same  general  reasons  essential  to  conservation  of 
moisture  and  economy  in  the  use  of  water,  because  evaporation  is 
greater  from  an  impacted  surface  which  is  more  likely  to  be  produced 
by  irrigation  than  by  rainfall. 

Fifth. — The  most  impressive  demonstration  that  these  points  are 
well  taken  is  found  in  two  conditions  clearly  discerned  from  experi- 
ence: first,  that  the  products  of  irrigated  land  on  which  tillage  is 
constantly  associated  with  the  use  of  water  are  superior  and  more 
abundant  than  when  tillage  is  scant  or  absent;  second,  that  tillage 
must  be  stopped  before  the  end  of  the  summer  in  regions  of  hard 
autumn  freezing  for  fear  that  some  plants  may  grow  too  late  and 
come  into  freezing  temperatures  with  too  much  soft  wood  in  the  new 
growth.  The  efficiency  of  tillage  is  thus  demonstrated  both  positively 
and  negatively. 

For  these  and  other  incidental  reasons,  tillage  is  at  least  equally 
required  with  irrigation  as  in  dependence  upon  rainfall,  and  is  re- 
quisite, on  the  whole,  in  larger  amount  because  the  methods  of  ir- 
rigation, in  general  practice,  make  it  more  necessary  to  overcome 
the  effects  of  frequent  applications  both  to  maintain  the  soil  in  what 
is  properly  described  as  "a  lively  condition"  and  for  the  conservation 
of  moisture  for  the  good  of  the  plant. 

Why  Most  Important  in  the  Garden? — Although  the  foregoing 
conditions  rule  in  all  our  agriculture  they  are  most  important  of  all 
in  ornamental  gardening.  With  nuany  plants  of  which  the  seed  or  the 
fruit  is  the  thing  desired,  there  may  be  danger  of  encouraging  growth 
toward  size  to  the  lessening  of  weight  or  quality  of  the  product,  but 
who  ever  found  a  flower  too  large  or  a  foliage  plant  too  magnificent? 
Occasionally  a  naturist  may  cry  "monstrosity"  at  the  professional  or 
home  gardener  for  "pampering  his  plants"  but  the  cry  evokes  no 
popular  response.  The  joyful  amateur  will  fasten  in  his  button  hole 
a  rose  as  large  as  the  crown  of  his  hat  and  go  forth  to  the  admiration 
of  his  fellow  men.  He  can  get  such  a  rose  by  plenty  of  manure,  plenty 
of  water  and  plenty  of  tillage  and  not  otherwise — because  these 
things  make  the  plant  most  active  and  efficient.  And  the  rose  knows 
what  is  good  also  for  other  flowering  plants.  Even  a  cactus  with  a 
record  of  producing  cow-feed  at  the  rate  of  ninety  tons  to  the  acre 
has  ordinary  plant-sense,  for  it  did  this  on  land  which  had  been  tilled 


HINTS  ON  THE  USE  OF  WATER.  37 

and  manured  for  twenty  years  or  more  in  a  region  averaging  over  30 
inches  annual  rainfall.  And  yet  the  popular  notion  is  that  a  cactus 
plant  yearns  for  .a  desert! 

HOW  MUCH  WATER  AND  HOW  FREQUENTLY  APPLIED? 

These  questions,  which  are  always  being  asked,  can  never  be 
answered.  It  is  true  that  very  interesting  determinations  have  been 
made  of  the  amounts  of  water  in  the  substance  of  different  plants; 
of  the  capacity  of  different  soils  to  receive  and  to  hold  water;  of  the 
amount  lost  by  evaporation  or  drainage  under  different  soil  textures 
and  air-thirst  but  with  all  these  factors  variable  it  should  be  clear 
that  any  general  formula,  workable  everywhere  would  be  so  difficult 
to  understand  and  apply  that  no  one  could  be  sure  of  growing  a 
plant  with  it.  There  is  however  a  better  way  and  that  is  to  learn 
by  patient  observation  how  a  plant  looks  when  it  has  its  best  moisture 
supply.  Amount  of  growth;  size,  substance  and  aspect  of  leaves;  size 
and  texture  of  flowers — all  these  are  among  the  tokens  which  a  plant 
given  of  satisfaction  and  the  grower  must  learn  to  understand  them 
and  use  water  to  secure  them,  if  he  has  made  the  soil  right,  as  out- 
lined in  the  preceding  chapter. 

Water  is  the  heaviest  component  of  all  growing  parts  of  a  plant 
and  water  is  therefore  the  chief  plant  food.  Not  only  so  but  no  other 
nourishment  can  enter  vegetable  tissues  through  the  roots  unless  it 
be  dissolved  in  water.  Water  to  waste  is  also  the  plants  protection. 
Nothing  but  water  can  save  the  tender  foliage  from  untimely  blushing 
beneath  the  too  ardent  gaze  of  the  sun;  nothing  but  libations  of 
water  from  the  cells  of  the  plant  will  save  them  from  destruction  by 
thirsty  air.  Therefore,  except  in  a  water-less  region,  do  not  try  to 
determine  how  little  water  a  plant  can  live  upon;  endeavor  rather  to 
ascertain  how  much  water  it  can  use  to  advantage  and  supply  it  if 
you  wish  to  live  in  an  amateur's  paradise. 

As  for  the  frequency  of  irrigation  that  also  depends  upon  soil, 
kind  of  plant  and  other  variables  but  much  also  depends  upon  method 
of  application  and  that  will  be  suggested  in  discussing  the  work  for 
the  months  of  the  year  in  Chapter  XII.  The  aspect  of  the  plant  must 
be  the  main  guide  in  frequency  as  in  amount  of  watering,  and  the  wise 
amateur  will  soon  learn  not  to  wait  for  signs  of  evident  distress,  but 
always  to  prevent  them. 

SOURCES   OF   IRRIGATION  WATER. 

In  other  places*  the  writer  has  undertaken  to  describe  with  some 
detail  ways  to  get  water  by  those  whose  premises  are  not  reached  by 
public  supply,  delivered  under  pressure.  This  problem  may  be 

*  "California  Fruits,"  Chap.  XV;  "California  Vegetables,"  Chap.  V;  Farmers' 
Bulletins,  (U.  S.  Dept.  AgrJ,  Nos.  116  and  138. 


38  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

avoided  in  this  connection  because  no  one  could  exist  in  his  garden 
without  having  previously  secured  his  domestic  water  supply  in  what- 
ever way  is  best  for  his  situation.  Water  for  the  garden  should 
always  be  included  when  one  plans  for  water  for  the  family  and  for 
the  domestic  animals.  Probably  this  item  is  often  omitted  because  of 
an  exaggerated  notion  of  the  additional  amount  required. 

Relation  of  House  and  Garden  Water  Supplies. — The  writer's  ex- 
perience covering  a  good  many  years  is  that  his  total  supply  of  water, 
delivered  through  a.  meter  has  averaged  276,000  gallons  a  year — of 
which  (as  ascertained  by  deduction  for  house  use  as  determined  by 
the  consumption  during  rainfall  months)  76,000  gallons  have  been 
used  for  garden  irrigation.  The  family  has  averaged  seven  persons 
and  nearly  all  laundry  work  has  been  done  in  the  house.  This  would 
indicate  that  the  domestic  water  supply  of  such  a  household  must  be 
increased  38  per  cent  to  maintain  a  garden  consisting  of: 

Lawns     '3810  square  feet 

Beds    and    borders     3451 

Vegetables    2000 


Total       9261  square  feet 

This  is  the  actually  irrigated  area — all  walks,  etc.,  being  excluded. 
The  place  is  of  .average  quality,  from  a  gardening  point  of  view — not 
so  good  as  one  will  have  if  he  follows  fully  the  precepts  of  this  book 
and  not  so  poor  as  he  is  apt  to  have  if  he  neglects  them.  But  this 
conclusion  from  experience  must  not  be  taken  as  contradicting  the 
previous  declaration  that  there  can  be  no  exact  prescription  of  the 
amount  of  water  required  for  garden  work.  The  garden  in  question 
has  a  soil  of  historical  adobe  type  although  it  has  been  mellowed  into 
a  fine  loam  'by  twenty  years  of  manuring  and  the  use  of  all  the  ashes 
resulting  from  the  consumption  of  not  less  than  four  hundred  tons  of 
coal  during  the  same  period.  There  is  however  a  tight  clay  subsoil 
at  an  average  depth  of  18  inches  and  all  the  water  is  kept  within  reach 
even  of  shallow-rooting  plants.  Manifestly  much  more  water  would 
be  required  to  produce  similar  results  over  a  coarse,  leachy  subsoil, 
and  the  same  would  be  true  with  a  surface  soil  losing  largely  by 
evaporation.  The  garden  is  also  situated  in  a  region  of  average  rain- 
fall of  28^2  inches,  with  summer  air  prevalently  cool  and  moist.  The 
amount  of  water  in  this  case  must  therefore  be  regarded  as  about  the 
minimum  capable  of  producing  the  results  indicated.  Perhaps  a  fair 
conclusion  would  be  that  on  an  average  the  house  water  supply  must 
be  increased  fifty  per  cent  to  carry  a  fairly  good  garden  environment. 

HOUSE  WASTES  FOR  GARDEN  IRRIGATION. 

It  is  perfectly  feasible  to  use  waste  w-ater  from  the  house  for 
garden  irrigation  if  one  will  give  proper  attention  to  it.  A  cesspool 


THE  GARDEN  AND  THE  SEPTIC  TANK.  39 

in  a  gravelly  subsoil  will  dispose  of  its  contents  readily,  but  if  it 
is  a  neighborhood  of  shallow  wells  a  cesspool  is  always  a  serious 
menace  to  health.  The  only  rational  way  to  treat  sewage  is  by  means 
of  a  septic  tank,  so  that  its  outflow  may  become  innocuous  in  every- 
way. The  following*  is  a  simple  statement  of  its  construction  and 
operation: 

Sewage  should  be  taken  away  from  the  house  in  a  septic  system, 
the  most  reasonable  and  sanitary  system  that  there  is,  and  one  very 
inexpensive  and  easy  to  make.  How  this  is  arranged  is  shown  in  the 
accompanying  diagram. 

Construction. — The  size  of  these  tanks  depends  upon  the  number 
of  persons  using  the  system,  It  is  usual  to  allow  four  cubic  feet  of 
space  in  each  tank  for  every  person  using  the  system.  Nine  persons 
therefore  will  require  that  each  tank  contain  36  cubic  feet  of  space,  or 
to  be  three  feet  square  by  four  feet  deep.  The  shape  of  the  tanks  is 
of  no  special  importance. 

Both  tanks  are  to  be  the  same  size  and  are  placed  side  by  side. 
The  first  tank  is  where  the  first  great  activity  in  sewage  change  goes 
on,  but  in  tank  No.  2  the  final  stage  of  sewage  change  is  accomplished. 
These  tanks  are  located  a  little  distance  from  the  house  and  con- 
nected with  the  plumbing  by  glazed  terra  cotta  pipes  with  well 
cemented  joints. 

A  cast  iron  pipe  leads  from  the  terra  cotta  into  the  first  tank  and 
ends  in  an  ell  which  projects  about  18  inches  down  into  the  tank. 
The  outlet  of  this,  las  can  be  seen  in  the  diagram  is  always  closed 
by  the  water  in  the  tank. 

On  the  farther  side  and  near  the  top  of  the  first  tank  is  another 
pipe  leading  to  tank  No.  2.  This  also  ends  in  an  ell,  which  sometimes 
is  covered  and  other  times  not.  The  outlet  of  tank  No.  2,  however, 
is  at  the  bottom,  although  the  pipe  that  removes  this  water  is  in  the 
form  of  an  inverted  "Y".  with  the  top.  where  the  bend  comes,  very 
nearly  but  not  quite  as  high  as  the  pipe  that  runs  into  tank  2.  The 
farther  side  of  the  outlet  pipe  runs  down  to  a  lower  point  than  the 
level  of  the  tanks,  and  from  there  has  a  gradual  slope  so  that  it  goes 
off  by  gravity. 

Operation. — By  the  time  the  sewage  gets  through  the  tanks  it  is 
in  liquid  form  entirely  so  that  the  work  of  the  final  outlet  pipe  is 
merely  to  get  rid  of  liquid.  This  outlet  pipe  should  run  along  on  a 
gradual  slope  until  it  reaches  within  about  a  foot  of  the  surface  of 
the  ground.  When  it  reaches  this  point  a  "Y"  joint  of  glazed  terra 
cotta  is  put  in  and  from  each  arm  a  line  of  ordinary  porous  drain 
tile  laid.  These  lines  of  tile  must  have  a  very  gradual  slope,  say 
one-fourth  inch  in  30  feet.  Each  line  should  be  about  30  feet  long 
in  light  soil  and  75  or  more  in  heavy  soil. 

The  tiles  must  be  placed  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart  so  that 
the  liquid  will  wash  out  between  them,  -and  rocks,  shells,  or  some 

*  From  a  fuller  account  of  disposal  of  house  wastes  in  Pacific  Rural  Press  of  Dec. 
21,  1912,  and  Jan.  25,  1913. 


40 


CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 


similar  material  placed  over  each  joint  so  as  to  prevent  the  dirt  from 
sinking  in  and  blocking  the  drain.  The  soils  will  then  absorb  all  the 
liquid  sewage  without  injury  to  soil  or  sanitation. 


Construction  of  the  Septic  Tank. 

Bacterial  Action. — It  is  the  action  of  bacteria  that  transforms  the 
sewage  in  a  septic  system,  and  these  are  especially  active  in  two  places, 
first  in  tank  No.  1,  and  secondly  when  the  sewage  reaches  the  soil 
between  the  joints  of  the  drain  tile. 

The  first  lot  of  bacteria  can  work  properly  only  without  air,  or 
with  very  little.  Thus  the  tanks  must  be  always  tightly  closed  on 
top.  The  bacteria  in  this  tank  reduces  all  solids  to  a  liquid  condition. 

The  bacteria  of  the  drain  can  work  properly  only  with  lots  of  air, 
and  California  soils,  being  naturally  so  dry,  open  and  well  aerated, 
arc  ideal  for  this  purpose.  The  second  tank  is  needed  to  give  the 
bacteria  in  the  soils  plenty  of  air.  If  the  sewage  should  flow  as  it 
came  from  the  house  it  would  keep  the  joints  of  the  drain  all  uniformly 
wet  and  it  would  drown  out  the  bacteria  except  a  few  on  the  surface. 
As  a  septic  tank  discharges  only  about  once  a  day  the  sewage  has  a 
chance  to  dry  out  in  the  soil,  the  bacteria  gets  plenty  of  air,  and  has 
plenty  of  time  to  work. 

The  sewage  when  the  bacteria  get  through  with  it  is,  as  previously 
stated,  perfectly  harmless.  It  also  does  not  injure  the  soil,  and  as  it 
contains  considerable  fertilizing  material  it  is  excellent  for  plant 
growth.  It  is  entirely  satisfactory  to  have  the  drain  run  through 
vegetable  garden,  alfalfa  or  orchard,  provided  plowing  is  done  so  as 
not  to  disturb  the  tile.  If,  however,  there  are  trees  or  berry  vines 
whose  roots  can  get  to  the  tile,  it  is  very  advisable  to  have  the  farther 
end  of  the  drain  open  so  as  to  allow  a  free  circulation  of  air  to  prevent 
bunches  of  roots  from  forming  and  blocking  up  the  drain. 

The  foregoing  describes  a  complete  system  for  disposition  of 
sewage  automatically  and  restricts  the  use  of  the  water  to  subirriga- 
tion.  It  is  also  feasible  to  use  the  outflow  for  surface  irrigation  by 
means  of  newly  made  furrows  which,  in  small  operations,  can  be 
made  with  a  hoe  alongside  the  lines  of  plants  which  it  is  desired  to 
irrigate.  ,The  outflow  from  tanks  in  proper  operation  is  completely 
harmless,  but  has  a  disagreeable  odor.  For  this  reason  it  is  not 
desirable  to  allow  it  to  flow  over  the  surface,  but  rather  to  allow 
it  to  run  for  a  short  time  in  a  furrow  in  which  it  is  covered  with  dry 
earth  and  allow  to  complete  in  the  porous  soil  the  same  transformation 


WAYS  TO  USE  WASTE  WATER.  41 

described  as  taking  place  in  the  line  of  porous  tiles  described  above. 
In  this  way  one  can  distribute  the  water  over  wider  spaces,  get  wider 
irrigation  use  of  it  and  guard  against  undesirable  saturation  of  the 
soil  in  a  restricted  area. 

Direct  Use  of  House  Water. — Where  one  has  entrance  to  a  regular 
city  or  suburban  sewage  system  and  thus  avoids  the  expense  of  a 
septic  system  of  his  own  it  is  still  desirable  to  use  the  greater  part 
of  the  house  water  in  the  garden,  if  the  owner's  time  is  worth  less  than 
the  water  and  he  will  give  the  distribution  of  it  the  necessary  atten- 
tion. The  writer  usually  has  more  time  than  money  and  he  has 
demonstrated  the  feasibility  of  what  is  here  commended.  In  planning 
the  plumbing  of  his  house,  two  outlets  were  arranged  near  together 
with  a  connecting  pipe  and  valve.  The  upper  outlet  which  was  about 
two  feet  above  the  ground  gave  outflow  water  from  washstands, 
bath  tubs  and  laundry  tubs;  the  lower  outlet  below  ground  received 
the  flow  in  the  pipes  from  kitchen  sink  and  water  closets  and  con- 
nected directly  with  the  terra  cotta  pipe  to  the  street  sewer.  By 
this  arrangement  the  cleaner  water  could  be  drawn  out  by  itself 
into  a  large  hose  for  garden  distribution  and  the  water  from  other 
places,  containing  grease,  etc.,  was  immediately  discharged  into  the 
sewer.  By  opening  the  valve  in  the  pipe  connecting  the  two  outlets, 
all  the  flow  from  the  house  could  be  released  to  the  street  sewer,  in 
the  winter,  when  the  garden  was  running  by  rainfall,  or  whenever 
not  convenient  to  use  the  water  for  irrigation.  In  this  way  perhaps 
three-fourths  of  the  waste  water  from  the  house  can  be  turned  into 
flowers,  if  one  will  observe  the  rule  of  short  runs  of  water  in  a 
place  and  good  hoeing  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  ready  for  it. 

SURFACE  OR  SUB-IRRIGATION. 

A  system  of  sub-surface  irrigation  by  tiles  is  suggested  in  the  fore- 
going discussion  of  the  septic  tank.  Plans  for  distribution  of  water 
underground  by  perforated  or  porous  carriers  have  been  indulged  in 
by  Californians  for  half  a  century,  but  have  never  been  installed  by 
many  people  and  have  never  been  long  in  operation  by  the  few  who 
most  enthusiastically  advocated  them.  There  is  reason  to  believe, 
however,  that  on  certain  soils,  distribution  through  simple  lines  of 
tile  laid  near  the  surface  may  be  more  satisfactory  than  running 
water  in  furrows.  This  will  be  for  shallow-rooting  plants  not  ex- 
pected to  stay  long  in  place  and  where  the  pipes  are  to  be  thrown 
out  and  relaid  at  short  intervals  of  time.  The  entrance  of  roots  in 
such  cases  is  not  a  ruling  factor.  The  distribution  by  connecting  these 
lines  of  tile  with  the  water  supply  is  easily  effected,  and  shallow 
cultivation  need  not  be  interfered  with.  But  even  in  such  case  the 
cost  of  tile  enough  to  cover  any  considerable  area  soon  reaches  high 
figures,  and  the  labor  of  laying  and  relaying  it  is  also  expensive.  It 


42  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

is  doubtful  whether  the  time  will  ever  come  when  such  systems  and 
devices  will  replace  well-regulated  surface  distribution  and  the  cultiva- 
tion which  is  associated  with  it,  though  for  economy  of  water,  and  to 
escape  the  refractory  condition  which  some  soils  assume  upon  surface 
irrigation,  experimentation  in  this  line  certainly  commends  itself  to 
those  whom  the  theory  pleases. 

Distribution  through  tile  laid  upon  the  surface  is  available  for 
shallow-rooting  plants,  and  has  been  shown  to  be  economical  both  of 
labor  and  water  under  Eastern  conditions.  In  an  arid  region,  how- 
ever, the  prevention  of  surface  stirring  of  the  soil  is  a  decided  objec- 
tion to  the  system,  unless  the  soil  be  very  light  and  free  from  a 
tendency  to  bake.  Surface  applications  not  followed  by  stirring  are 
not  a  substitute  for  cultivation,  as  discussed  earlier  in  this  chapter. 
It  is  a  common  experience  of  beginners  that  plants  may  dwindle  and 
fail,  though  water  may  be  almost  daily  poured  around  them,  on  an 
uncultivated  surface.  Each  new  application  seems  to  add  to  the 
compact  and  inhospitable  character  of  the  soil. 

GARDEN  TILLAGE. 

The  importance  of  adequate  soil-stirring  or  tillage  has  been  urged 
in  the  discussion  of  the  relations  of  tillage  to  soil  moisture  arid  thrift 
of  the  plant.*  It  will  also  intrude  in  many  other  connections  in  suc- 
ceeding chapters,  for  tillage  is  the  ruling  art  in  gardening,  related  to 
all  other  arts  and  often  actually  determining  their  success  or  failure. 
Therefore  no  elaborate,  separate  discussion  of  tillage  will  be  under- 
taken for  its  most  important  phases  will  inevitably  pervade  this 
treatise  in  all  its  parts.  Still  for  connected  view  of  so  important  a 
matter  a  quick,  comprehensive  glance  at  the  purposes  of  tillage  will 
be  taken. 

Tillage  is  the  general  term  including  all  forms  of  soil-stirring — 
from  light  touch  of  smoothing  rake  at  the  surface  to  heavy  wrench 
of  dynamite  in  loosening  the  subsoil,  and  its  offices  may  be  categorized 
as  follows: 

1. — To  open  the  soil:  (a)  to  reception  of  moisture  and  air;  (b)  to 
receive  and  distribute  fertility;  (c)  to  afford  fine  particles  for  seed- 
enclosure  and  root-seizing;  (d)  to  promote  porosity  and  root  ex- 
tension; (e)  to  promote  drying  when  moisture  is  in  excess. 

2. — To  close  the  soil:  (a)  to  break  clods  and  reduce  air-spaces  in 
and  under  turned-soil,  by  harrow,  sub-soil  packer  or  thrust  of  spade; 
(b)  to  reduce  surface  soil  to  granular  or  "crumby"  condition  (and  to 

*  Quite  fully  discussed  in  "California  Fruits,"  Chap.  XIII  and  "California  Vege- 
tables," Chap.  VII, 


TILLAGE  AND  DRAINAGE.  43 

keep  it  in  that  condition)  to  lessen  loss  of  moisture  by  capillarity  and 
evaporation,  by  weed-growth  and  by  too  free  entrance  of  dry  air 
to  soil  spaces. 

To  pursue  all  these  purposes  in  detail,  and  the  means  for  atttaining 
them,  would  lead  to  a  recital  of  the  theory  of  tillage  and  the  in- 
troduction of  an  implement  catalogue — both  of  which  are  readily 
obtained  elsewhere,  and  both  of  which  are  earnestly  commended 
because  there  is  much  profit  in  the  individual  thinking  which  they 
promote.  To  know  the  effect  which  you  desire  to  secure  in  the  soil, 
to  recognize  the  condition  which  secures  that  effect  and  to  possess  the 
tool  with  which  you  can  best  secure  that  condition — these  constitute  a 
concrete  mastery  of  tillage  which  one  need  never  expect  to  manifest 
in  his  garden  until  after  he  has  developed  it  in  his  own  head  by 
close  watching  and  hard  thinking,  about  the  soil  and  the  particular 
tools  which  best  meet  its  varying  conditions.  Therefore  no  general 
exposition  of  tillage  is  undertaken  in  this  place,  nor  will  there  be 
special  prescription  of  implements.  The  suggestion  of  conditions  in 
various  relations  of  tillage  which  are  discussed,  will,  it  is  hoped,  be 
helpful  toward  the  mastery  indicated.  Particular  references  will  be 
found  in  the  chapter  relating  to  the  work  for  the  various  months. 
The  mulch  as  an  adjunct  to  tillage  will  also  be  considered  in  that 
connection. 

DRAINAGE. 

Such  free  use  of  water  as  has  been  urged  is  always  safer  and  more 
satisfactory  if  the  soil  is  enabled  to  relieve  itself  of  a  surplus  by 
natural  disposition  through  its  own  free  lower  strata  or  by  outlet 
through  tiles  laid  at  a  depth  of  about  three  feet,  according  to  methods 
prescribed  in  all  publications  on  the  subject.  It  must  however  be 
acknowledged  that  very  few  amateur's  gardens  in  California  are 
underdrained  and  in  most  cases  such  expenditure  as  tiling  requires 
may  be  deferred  and  resorted  to  only  if  signs  of  real  need  are  mani- 
fested. In  this  respect  of  course  California  conditions  are  quite  unlike 
those  of  humid  climates — the  soils  being  usually  much  deeper  and 
more  loamy  and  the  precipitation  less.  In  the  irrigated  garden  one 
can  escape  the  cost  of  drainage  by  watching  closely  and  regulating  the 
application  so  that  the  soil  does  not  become  unduly  wet.  For  this 
purpose  digging  beneath  the  surface  is  desirable  for  it  is  possible  to 
have  dry  earth  above  and  mud  below — a  condition  particularly  in- 
jurious to  shrubs,  trees  and  perennial  vines;  while  herbaceous  plants 
may  enjoy  it  hugely  if  one  can  judge  by  their  size  and  bloom. 


PART  II:    CALIFORNIA  CULTURAL  SUGGESTIONS. 

CHAPTER  V. 
LAYING  OUT  THE  GARDEN. 

The  art  of  garden  design  has  puzzled  and  charmed  mankind  from 
prehistoric  times.  It  invaded  the  earliest  recorded  thought  and  since 
then  it  has  pervaded  all  form  of  literature  and  has  used  nearly  all 
human  words  as  signs  of  its  ideas  or  .as  descriptive  of  its  principles, 
purposes  and  methods.  Poetry,  architecture,  painting,  sculpture, 
history  and  philosophy  are  its  ancient  hand  maidens  and  now  modern 
science  is  enrolled  as  its  patient  and  admiring  servitor.  Its  invocation 
in  a  work  of  this  kind  is  as  incongruous  as  the  installation  of  a 
gorgeous  rose  in  a  tomato  can — and  yet  it  must  serve  our  present 
purpose. 

Out  of  the  distant  past  there  come  to  us  two  groups  of  ideas  in 
garden  design  and  they  contrast  themselves  as  groups  under  the 
terms,  the  "garden  natural"  and  the  "garden  formal."  Of  these  the 
first  is  often  called  the  English,  and  the  second  the  Italian,  style.  But 
these  terms  are  only  modern  conveniences,  for  the  principles  of  each 
trace  back  to  most  ancient  prototype — the  Garden  of  Eden  and  the 
Garden  of  the  Pyramids.  The  Garden  of  Eden  was  of  course  a 
natural  landscape  which  Adam  evidently  did  not  seriously  mutilate, 
for  the  record  surely  indicates  tbat  he  did  not  perspire  much  until 
after  he  was  banished  from  it.  The  Garden  of  the  Pyramids  with 
its  terracing,  its  graven  images,  its  flights  of  stone  steps  and  banks 
of  foliage  laboriously  hewn  straight  or  grotesquely  curved,  with  its 
lines  of  walks  and  lawns  vigorously  angular  <and  perpendicular  or 
parallel  to  the  walls  of  buildings  or  elaborately  geometric  in  relation 
thereto — these  are  the  things  which  brought  moisture  to  the  brow  of 
the  banished  Adam  and  have  involved  his  successors  to  the  present 
day  in  lavish  labor  or  expenditure  for  that  which  is  not  beautiful. 

But  it  is  not  our  purpose  to  arm  ourselves  for  a  conflict  of  styles, 
each  of  which  has  its  place — quite  well  denned  if  one  will  think 
earnestly  about  them.  This  fact  is  suggested  in  the  following 
sentences  from  the  leading  English  champion  of  the  garden  natural  :* 

"Beneath  all  art  there  are  laws,  however  subtle,  that  cannot  be 
ignored  without  error  and  waste;  and  in  garden  design  there  are 
lessons  innumerable  both  in  wild  and  cultivated  nature  which  will 
guide  as  well  if  we  seek  to  understand  them  simply. 

"Why  is  the  cottage  garden  often  a  picture  and  the  gentleman's 
garden  near,  wholly  shut  out  of  the  realm  of  art,  a  thing  which  an 

*  Garden  Design  by  W.   Robinson,  London,   1892. 


WHAT  CALIFORNIA  HAS  IN  GARDEN  DESIGN.  45 

artist  cannot  look  at  long?  It  is  the  absence  of  pretentious  "plan" 
which  lets  the  flowers  tell  their  tale  direct,  the  simple  walks  going 
where  they  are  wanted;  flowers  not  set  in  patterns;  the  walls  and 
porch  alive  with  flowers. 

"Can  the  gentleman's  garden,  then,  too,  be  a  picture?  Certainly; 
the  greater  the  breadth  and  means  the  better  the  picture  should  be. 
But  never  if  our  formal  'decorative'  style  of  design  is  kept  to.  Reform 
must  come  by  letting  Nature  take  her  just  place  in  the  garden. 

"After  we  have  settled  the  essential  approaches,  levels  and  en- 
closures for  shelter,  privacy,  or  dividing  lines  around  a  house,  the 
natural  form  or  lines  of  the  earth  herself  are  in  nearly  all  cases  the 
best  to  follow. 

"In  the  true  Italian  garden  on  the  hills  we  have  to  alter  the  natural 
line  of  the  earth  or  'terrace'  it,  because  we  cannot  otherwise  cultivate 
the  ground  or  move  with  ease  upon  it.  The  strictly  formal  in  such 
ground  is  as  right  in  its  way  as  the  lawn  in  a  garden  in  the  valley. 

"I  hold  that  it  is  possible  to  get  every  charm  of  a  garden  and  every 
use  of  a  country-seat  without  sacrifice  of  the  picturesque  or  beautiful; 
that  there  is  no  reason  why,  either  in  the  working  or  design  of 
gardens,  there  should  be  a  single  false  line  in  them.  By  this  I  mean 
hard  lines,  such  as  the  earth  never  follows. 

"The  landscape  gardener  of  the  present  day  is  not  always  what  we 
admire,  his  work  often  looking  more  like  that  of  an  engineer.  His 
gardening  near  the  house  is  usually  a  repetition  of  the  decorative 
work  of  the  house,  of  which  I  hope  many  artistic  people  are  tired. 

"The  soul  of  true  gardening  it  to  show,  on  a  small  scale  it  may  be, 
some  of  the  precious  and  inexhaustible  loveliness  of  vegetation  on 
plain,  wood  and  mountain.  This  is  the  necessary  and  absolutely  only 
true,  just  and  fair  use  of  a  garden!" 

The  California  Way. — These  few  sentences  will  serve  our  present 
purpose,  which  is  to  incline  those  who  are  pondering  garden  design  toward 
a  little  deeper  thinking  than  is  usually  given  the  matter.  In  California  we 
are  doing  some  very  creditable  work,  and  are  also  occasionally  perpetrating 
something  outrageous  as  well.  So  far  as  our  observation  goes,  our  country 
places  are,  as  a  rule,  more  praiseworthy  than  the  suburban  creations.  In 
the  suburbs  the  homemakers  play  all  sorts  of  pranks  with  earth  and 
plants.  Having  a  moderate  area  of  ground  they  can  torture  it  in  many 
ways  without  too  great  expenditure.  In  the  country,  at  least  in  those  parts 
of  the  State  where  the  surface  is  broken  and  there  is  a  natural  growth  of 
tree  and  shrub,  some  very  satisfactory  work  has  been  accomplished  in 
adding  to  the  charms  of  a  place  while  not  sacrificing  its  natural  beauties. 
If  we  have  not  advanced  as  far  in  instances  of  good  garden  design  as 
perhaps  might  be  expected  of  a  people  upon  whom  such  wealth 
has  been  poured,  we  have  fortunately  not  made  many  serious  mistakes. 
There  seems  to  be  quite  a  general  leaning  toward  correct  taste  and 
appreciation  of  that  which  is  fitting  and  beautiful. 

For  this  reason  one  will  see  in  California  very  few  trees  tortured  into 
grotesque  figures  from  zoology  or  from  solid  geometry,  nor  will  one  see 


46  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

many  checker-board  or  pin-wheel  apartments  for  flowering  plants.  Our 
suburban  landscapes  show  few  stiff  terraces,  trees  and  shrubs  in  lines  of 
battle  or  other  plants  arrayed  to  reveal  the  hand,  of  man  as  clearly  as  a 
tailor-made  costume.  On  the  other  hand,  our  home  grounds  and  parks 
display  natural  slopes,  tree  clumps,  shrub  clusters  and  flower  masses  ar- 
ranged to  suggest  the  work  of  nature  and  conceal  the  work  of  the 
designer — which  is  much  higher  art. 

A  very  hopeful  sign  that  the  best  standards  of  taste  will  prevail  in  the 
future  development  of  the  State  is  found  in  the  fact  that  the  University 
of  California  has  established  in  its  College  of  Agriculture  systematic 
instruction  in  floriculture  and  home  ground  ornamentation,  and  has  also 
provided  instruction  in  correspondence  courses  which  require  no  fees. 
There  is  also  increasing  in  California  a  qualified  profession  of  landscape 
architecture,  both  men  and  women  being  ready  to  furnish  plans  and  speci- 
fications for  home  ground  design  and  planting  at  moderate  cost.  Their 
services  are  very  desirable,  even  in  affairs  of  small  area,  while  in  larger 
undertakings  they  will  notably  increase  the  owner's  joy  in  his  improve- 
ments, for  they  surely  can  throw  round  the  life  of  a  man  an  environment 
of  pictures,  near  and  afar,  opening  vistas,  veiling  ugliness,  and  displaying 
plants,  trees,  slopes,  rocks,  waters — each  with  its  own  best  qualities  and 
relations. 

What  all  these  things  mean,  and  their  importance  in  garden  design,  one 
can  learn  by  reading  one  of  many  books  on  the  subject  which  are  now 
available  and  of  which,  for  beginners  and  self-working  amateurs,  the  small 
treatise*  'by  Kemp,  an  English  garden  designer,  as  revised  by  Professor 
Waugh,  seems  to  us  best  and  most  helpful,  both  in  thought  and  practical 
wor<ki  It  is  full  of  drawings  suggestive  of  good  ideas  and  construction 
details. 

But  though  the  writer  has  such  respect  for  the  profession  of  garden 
design  and  is  urgent  in  advice  to  all  having  suburban  residence  or  country 
villa  sites  to  develop,  to  place  their  planning  in  professional  hands,  he 
cannot  refrain  from  stating  a  few  things  which  impress  him  as  an  amateur, 
for  he  has  no  professional  connection  whatever  with  the  subject. 

SUGGESTIONS  FOR  LAYING-OUT. 

Among  the  principles  to  be  observed,  or  the  conditions  to  be  secured, 
several  may  be  mentioned,  with  concrete  suggestions  to  render  them  intel- 
ligible and  to  support  their  desirability. 

Everyone  who  undertakes  to  improve  his  own  home  grounds  should  first 
make  a  plan,  or  map,  with  pencil  and  paper,  with  an  eraser  to  facilitate 
changes.  The  beginner  will  find  it  convenient  to  use  cross-ruled  paper 
indicating  squares  of  half  an  inch,  which  may  be  used  to  represent  ten  or 
twenty  feet  of  linear  ground-distance,  according  to  the  area  he  desires  to 


*  Kemp's   Landscape   Gardening,   by   F.   A.   Waugh,   fully  illustrated.     Published  by 
John  Wiley  &  Sons.     Postpaid  $1.50,  from  Pacific  Rural  Press,  San  Francisco. 


MAPPING  AND  LAYING  OUT.  47 

cover  on  a  sheet  of  convenient  size.  This  suggestion,  which  is  unques- 
tionably abhorrent  to  one  of  training  or  talent  in  drawing,  must  be  com- 
mended to  the  retired  merchants,  mechanics,  sea  captains  or  active  farmers 
who  are  improving  their  homes  in  California,  and  all  of  whom  are  alike  at 
sea  in  tracing  a  course  on  a  sheet  of  drawing  paper.  Let  such  a  one  then 
boldly  take  the  cross-ruled  sheet  and  defy  the  smile  of  the  fiend  who  has 
,the  artistic  temperament. 

Making  The  Map  Fit  The  Land. — The  first  operation  is  to  establish 
connection  'between  the  sheet  and  the  land  surface  which  is  to  be  repre- 
sented by  it.  Get  a  boy,  whose  mind  has  not  yet  unfolded  to  art  criticism, 
to  help  you  and  with  a  tape  line,  or  the  common  tree  planting  wire,  tagged 
with  20- foot  intervals,  and  mark  out  the  area  with  short  stakes  just  as 
though  you  intended  to  plant  trees  at  20  feet  distance  on  the  square  system. 
Now  you  have  the  sheet  of  paper  and  the  land  surface  mutually  represen- 
tative, and  you  can  easily  count  the  stakes  or  the  line-crossings  from  any 
point  to  make  locations. 

Using  -this  method,  locate  on  the  sheet  first  the  boundaries  of  the  area 
which  you  desire  to  include,  and  then  locate  the  house  and  outbuildings  in 
their  proper  measured  relations  to  each  other  and  to  the  boundaries  afore- 
said. Permanent  enclosures,  such  as  corrals,  paddoc'ks,  etc.,  should  be 
located  in  proper  size  and  relations,  unless  the  area  to  be  improved  should 
stop  short  of  them. 

Next  locate  the  places  chosen  for  entrance  from  the  highway,  to  the 
field  or  orchard,  etc.,  or  to  the  barn  or  garage,  and  flag  them  with  tall 
stakes  supporting  a  white  flag.  Mark  these  also  on  the  plan. 

Laying  Out  With  Wheels. — Next  go  to  the  point  of  main  entrance 
to  the  place,  with  a  long-reach  wagon  or  an  automobile,  as  you  choose,  and 
consider  the  entrance  to  the  house  which  is  of  most  dignity.  Having  de- 
termined this,  drive  slowly  to  it,  having  such  regard  for  easy  grade  as  you 
will  have  previously  learned  to  look  out  for  in  your  driving  through  fields 
— remembering  all  the  time  that  you  expect  to  get  out  upon  the  highway 
again  without  turning  or  even  cramping  the  wheels.  This  will  swing  you 
up  to  the  main  entrance  and  leave  your  machine  right  to  start  out  again, 
and  a  glance  will  show  you  whether  you  can  swing  out  again  between  the 
house  and  the  highway,  or  whether  you  have  to  go  around  the  house  to 
make  the  turn-around.  In  either  case,  go  again  to  the  main  entrance  and 
you  have  one  main  driveway  located. 

Start  again,  following  the  wheel  tracks  made  on  the  first  run  from  the 
main  road  entrance  until  you  reach  the  alighting  place  for  the  house  door 
which  you  expect  most  to  use,  or  to  the  point  where  you  will  depart  from 
the  first  main  driveway  to  reach  it.  When  you  have  reached  that  chiefly- 
used  entrance,  stop  a  moment  and  look  ahead  for  your  easiest  and  most 
direct  approach  to  the  barn  and  the  garage,  for  this  line  should  reach  them 
both.  Drive  to  these  points  and  consider  the  way  to  go  from  both  of 


48  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

them  to  the  field  or  orchard  entrances,  corral  gates  and  all  other  points 
which  you  will  be  required  to  most  easily  and  quickly  reach  from  the  main 
highway  or  from  the  center  of  chief  activity  within  the  place. 

After  you  have  thus  practically  connected  all  the  main  driveways  with 
points  which  must  be  reached  you  can  see  places  where  cross-drives  from 
one  to  the' other  of  the  main  drives  will  be  convenient,  and  mark  them  out 
also  with  the  wheels.  In  all  your  driving  do  not  turn  out  for  the  little 
stakes.  You  must  absolutely  disregard  them  or  your  drive-lines  will  be 
full  of  little  wiggles;  forget  them  entirely  and  let  all  your  thoughts  be  upon 
the  point  to  be  reached  and  the  easiest  way  to  reach  it,  every  time  you  start. 

Now  transfer  your  wheel  tracks  from  the  earth  to  the  peper  by  noting 
the  stakes  and  drawing  the  road  boundaries  with  the  same  relation  to  the 
cross-lines.  After  these  lines  are  in  place  you  can  see  points  where  slight 
changes  can  be  made  without  injury  to  grade  or  width  and  then  you  will 
return  to  the  earth  and  stake  out  your  permanent  driveways.  It  is  much 
easier  to  stake  a  driveway  that  has  been  run  than  to  run  on  a  driveway 
that  has  only  been  staked. 

If  the  place  is  small  and  no  interior  driveways  arc  to  be  provided,  take 
a  wheelbarrow,  put  on  in  front  a  cross-piece  with  a  peg  on  each  end 
reaching  to  the  ground,  and  load  with  earth  or  rocks  or  a  fat  boy  and  go 
through  the  same  process  exactly — from  the  street  to  the  main  doorway, 
from  this  to  other  doorways  until  you  make  a  circuit  of  the  house;  then 
from  doorways  or  from  points  on  the  main  circuit  to  the  henhouse,  the  dog 
kennel,  the  tennis  court,  the  laundry  yard,  the  vegetable  and  flower  beds  or 
whatever  centers  of  local  activity  you  may  plan  for.  Give  the  marking 
pegs  the  distance  apart  which  is  desired  for  the  width  of  the  walk.  Of 
course,  after  the  main  drjves  or  walks  are  determined  upon,  auxiliary  or 
connecting  walks  should  be  decided  upon,  always  with  reference  to  some 
recognizable  purposes  in  their  provision.  These  may  be  sometimes  cross- 
cuts to  save  distance  in  'going  in  different  directions.  Wherever  possible 
they  should  be  combined  with  some  other  motive,  such  as  to  make  easier 
approach  to  a  flower  'border  inviting  closer  inspection,  an  invitation  to  a 
garden-bench  in  shade  and  retirement  or  a  view  point  for  a  charming 
vista — even  though  it  be  only  a  glimpse  at  your  neighbor's  laundry  yard, 
which. he  has  made  beautiful  with  the  clothes'  line  posts  transformed  into 
pillar  roses,  crowned  with  basket  capitals  of  ivy  geranium.  Not  everyone 
can  have  a  vista  of  ocean  or  mountain;  sometimes  one's  neighbor's  back 
door  may  be  worth  looking  at  through  your  shrubbery. 

Straight  Lines  or  Curves. — But  having  faithfully  done  this  someone 
may  disappointedly  say:  "My  place  is  very  flat  and  my  walks  and  drives 
laid  out  with  directness  from  point  to  point,  are  all  straight  lines  with 
rounded  corners.  I  wanted  curving  drives  and  walks."  The  reply  must  be 
that  on  level  surfaces  walks  and  drives  must  be  prevalently  on  straight 
lines  to  be  reasonable ;  on  uneven  surfaces  they  are  naturally  curved  to  be 


THE  SURROUNDINGS  OF  THE  HOUSE  49 

reasonable  and  convenient.  If  you  must  have  a  curved  walk  on  a  flat 
surface  you  must  adopt  a  formal  style  with  some  geometrical  elements,  and 
such  a  design  should  be  made  by  a  professional  landscape  architect  or  by 
an  amateur  who  has  carefully  studied  the  subject.  We  have  never  yet 
seen  a  formal  lay-out  by  a  tyro  which  was  jjpt  grotesque,  while  there  are 
thousands  of  places  simply  designed  by  inexperienced  person's  of  good 
taste  which  are  consistently  natural  and  beautiful. 

To  make  curved  walks  reasonable  on  a  flat  surface  one  must  adopt  a 
set  pattern  of  which  they  are  a  part,  or  he  must  have  some  barrier  to 
avoid.  If  there  is  a  large  tree  or  a  natural  rock-cropping  in  the  line  it  is 
rational  to  cusve  around  it,  but  to  pile  up,  in  a  small  opening,  a  wagon 
load  of  rocks  for  an  artificial  "rockery,"  is  irrational  and  generally  ugly, 
while  a  creation  of  concrete  in  such  a  place  is  grotesque.  One  can  erect 
a  graven  image  and  cause  a  walk  to  curve  in  worship  at  its  feet,  or  he  can 
buy  a  cast-iron  deer  and  amble  around  to  escape  his  antlers,  but  the  place 
for  all  such  garden  ornaments  is  in  the  junk-shop. 

A  CERTAIN  DEGREE  OF  FORMALITY  IS  DESIRABLE. 

The  fact  is  that  a  certain  element  of  the  formal  style  is  desirable  in 
most  designs  and  is  admissible  even  in  work  in  the  natural  style  when 
properly  introduced  or  isolated.  For  instance,  in  laying  out  small  home 
sites  in  the  midst  of  orchard  areas,  which  economy  and  efficiency  require 
to  be  planted  in  straight  lines,  it  is  most  congruous  to  take  a  rectangular 
space  for  the  buildings ;  to  make  drives  and  walks  straight ;  to  make  house 
lines  straight  and  to  surround  the  buildings  with  beds  and  borders  with 
parallel  edges.  It  is  also  consistent  to  plant  shrubs  and  herbaceous  per- 
ennials in  straight  lines,  for  there  will  be  no  great  length  of  them  and  so 
far  as  they  go  they  harmonize  with  the  straight  fines  of  orchard  trees.  In 
such  a  lay-out  it  is  rational  to  make  the  driveway  at  one  side  of  the  open 
space  between  the  house  and  the  highway;  to  reach  the  entrance-porch, 
which  is  usually  on  one  side  of  a  small  house,  and  to  pass  beyond  for  a 
turning  space  among  the  buildings  in  the  rear  of  the  house,  unless  the 
garden  space  is  made  large  enough  to  make  reasonable  two  entrance  gates 
and  driveways,  one  on  each  side  of  the  open  space.  In  this  case  the  drive- 
way will  cross  from  side  to  side  in  front  of  the  house,  as  well  as  extending 
to  .the  rear  of  it.  In  such  a  case  it  is  desirable  to  plant  no  tall  growths  on 
the  sides  of  the  open  space  and  to  make  no  attempt  to  insulate  this  space 
from  the  surrounding  orchard  area.  It  is  better  to  use  the  foliage  of  the 
fruit  trees  for  an  environment  and  to  enjoy  the  vistas  opening  between  the 
rows.  Fruit  land  is  usually  high-priced  and  a  house-grove  planted  for 
ornament  destroys  more  land  than  it  covers.  Tall  trees  for  shade  and 
ornament  should  be  grown  between  the  outbuildings  and  enclosures  in 
the  rear. 


50  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

Where,  however,  there  is  plenty  of  land  and  the  enjoyment  of  a  picture 
isolated  from  the  commercial  plantings  is  desired,  the  open  space  should 
be  enlarged  and  tree-clumps  and  shrub-masses  displayed  on  either  side 
and  irregularly-outlined  flower  borders  provided  for  on  the  house-sides  of 
them  and  the  'buildings  be  thus  brought  into  a  strictly  ornamental  environ- 
ment. In  this  one  should  not  think  of  planting  shade  trees  in  the  house- 
ends  of  the  fruit  tree  rows — thus  emphasizing  the  rectangular  arrange- 
ment which  he  is  seeking  to  avoid.  Nor  should  the  trees  selected  be  of  one 
kind,  but  of  several  kinds,  which  do  well  in  the  locality  and  which  the 
planter  admires. 

Even  when  the  more  remote  environment  is  planned  according  to  the 
natural  system  of  irregular  forms  and  distances  beyond  open  spaces  un- 
marred  by  geometry,  it  is  often  desirable  to  immediately  surround  the 
house  with  formal  beds  (and  even  terraces,  if  the  ground  requires  them), 
providing  the  lines  and  plantings  be  simple  and  not  too  inharmonious  to 
blend  with  the  freer  features  of  the  environment  beyond.  Such  a  connect- 
ing link  between  the  elaboration  of  the  house  lines  and  the  simplicity  of  the 
farther  stretches  is  often  very  effectively  employed. 

THE  OPEN  SPACES. 

Reference  has  been  made  to  open  spaces  and  it  should  be  noted  that 
such  should  be  arranged  even  in  gardens  of  small  area,  as  has  been  inti- 
mated in  the  discussion  of  house-gardens  in  orchard  areas.  The  walled- 
gardens  of  earlier  times,  and  still  extant  in  other  lands,  are  un-American 
in  attitude  and  spirit.  Even  fences  should  be  discarded  except  where  in- 
trusion by  live  stock  must  be  prevented.  Hedge  rows  are  being,  by  com- 
mon consent,  removed  to  interior  separation  and  concealment  lines.  The 
ideal  environment  of  a  house,  as  seen  from  the  highway,  is  a  lawn  or 
some  substitute  for  turf  which  circumstances  may  require — as  will  be  dis- 
cussed in  a  later  chapter.  The  open  space,  upon  the  enjoyment  of -which 
the  public  has  a  valid  claim,  should  extend  from  the  highway  trees  to  the 
house  front  and  through  rearward  vistas  also,  if  that  can  be  arranged.  The 
following  paragraph  recently  written*  by  Mr.  G.  H.  Hopkins  of  Los  An- 
geles County,  covers  many  points  in  the  treatment  of  the  open  space : 

"The  best  of  our  present-day  gardeners  do  not  cut  up  the  lawn  with  a 
lot  of  flower  beds.  Where  the  grounds  are  not  large,  the  lawn  should  have 
only  a  few  low-growing  shrubs  or  palms,  while  with  a  larger  area  occa- 
sional trees  may  be  added.  The  scheme  of  tree  planting  should  be  with  the 
idea  of  having  at  least  a  portion  of  the  buildings  in  view  at  all  times  while 
passing  along  the  street  or  highway.  Tall  trees  like  the  eucalyptus  should 
be  planted  at  the  rear  of  the  house.  Such  trees  as  the  peppers  may  be 
planted  around  the  house,  but  not  so  close  as  to  hide  it  from  view.  Low- 
growing  trees  may  be  grouped  around  the  sides  of  the  grounds  and  build- 

*  Pacific  Rural  Press,  Feb.   11,  1911. 


RELATION  OF  HOUSE  TO  OPEN  SPACES 


51 


ings,  with  the  taller  varieties  in  the  background.  The  flowers  can  be 
banked  against  the  house  and  also  be  used  in  front  of  shrubbery  where 
planted  at  one  side.  All  plans  for  planting  should  be  made  according  to 
size  of  plant  and  tree  when  full  grown.  The  planting  should  be  done  in 
such  a  manner  that  the  taller  trees  will  not  hide  the  lower-growing  sorts, 
and  the  grouping  should  be  so  arranged  that  the  house  is  always  in  view, 
so  that  the  view  from  any  point  along  the  highway  will  be  complete." 


rv 

\ 


Suggestive  design  showing  open  spaces,  trees  and  shrubs,  in  relation  to 

buildings — C,  chicken  yard;  B,  barn-yard  or  corral; 

F,  flower  beds  for  cut  flowers. 

The  home-maker  can  afford  to  do  this  much  for  the  enjoyment  of  the 
wayfarer  and  the  beauty  of  the  countryside  without  sacrificing  his  own 
privacy.  Retirement  places  with  comfortable  sittings,  lolling  benches  or 
hammocks  can  be  easily  arranged  out  of  the  public  eye  on  the  sides  of  the 
residence,  near  to  porches  or  verandas  which  may  themselves  be  easily 
screened  by  vines  or  shrubs  properly  placed  so  that  a  considerable  area  of 


52  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

sun,  shade  and  flowers  are  used  as  extensions  of  the  living  rooms,  as  the 
California  climate  so  amply  justifies. 

The  open  spaces  are  indicated  by  the  areas  isolated  by  the  main  drive- 
ways or  walks  as  they  surround  them  in  their  courses.  Whether  they  be 
front,  side  or  rear  they  may  be  covered  by  whatever  plant  serves  the  local 
conditions  best  for  a  lawn,  or  the  semblance  thereof,  and  they  may  be  edged 
or  bordered  with  flowering  plants  except  perhaps  the  front  or  main  lawn, 
which  should  reach  to  the  walk  or  driveway  line  with  its  own  substance 
neatly  trimmed  to  this  line  and  not  to  border  or  edging.  Flowering  plants 
should  not  be  grown  in  beds  cut  into  the  front  lawn  nor  can  they  well 
occupy  the  whole  space  thereof.  A  front  yard  of  flowering  plants  at  their 
best  do  not  produce  the  effect  of  a  lawn,  and  unless  given  unusual  attention 
and  replacement  at  short  intervals,  they  are  never  at  their  best  as  a  whole. 
Therefore  it  is  better  to  grow  them  in  borders  at  the  sides  or  at  the  foot 
of  the  house  walls,  or,  better  still,  they  should  be  grown  for  their  blooms, 
for  their  own  sakes  or  for  room  ornament,  in  side  or  rear  beds,  and  con- 
cealed from  front-sight  by  shrubbery  or  otherwise.  The  writer's  personal 
choice  is  to  extend  the  lawn  from  the  street  or  highway  line  to  the  base  of 
the  house  walls,  except  such  narrow  bed  as  is  desirable  alone  for  the  grow- 
ing of  the  vines  which  are  trained  upon  the  house  walls  or  upon  frames 
attached  thereto.  The  front  walks  and  drives  would  therefore  traverse  the 
lawn  area  and  usually  be  invisible  from  the  highway,  as  the  eye  passes  over 
the  verdure  toward  the  building.  But  there  are  objections  to  this  arrange- 
ment in  California,  as  will 'be  noted  in  the  chapter  on  lawns. 

Windbreaks. — Of  course  the  doctrine  of  open  spaces  for  the  public 
eye  must  be  considered  in  connection  with  adverse  conditions  which  may 
prevail.  If  the  front  yard  happens  to  be  in  the  teeth  of  the  wind  it  is  often 
necessary  to  supplement  the  first  line  of  defence,  the  highway  trees,  with 
other  plantings  on  the  windward  edge  of  the  garden  which  may  obscure 
the  outer  view.  In  that  case  the  open  expression  must  be  sacrificed  for 
the  sake  of  protection.  The  same  is  true  of  the  dust  from  a  neglected 
highway.  Trees  and  shrubs  are  great  dust-arresters  and  must  often  be 
employed  therefor.  Sometimes  it  is  desirable  to  select  a  building  site  with 
reference  to  avoiding  these  troubles. 

Width  of  Walks  and  Borders. — The  effect  of  openness  or  freedom 
is  somewhat  dependent  upon  the  width  of  walks  and  of  borders  which  may 
attend  them  on  the  outer  sides  of  the  garden  area,  as  suggested.  The 
necessity  of  Indian-filing  your  visitors  through  the  garden  should  be 
avoided.  All  main  walks  should  be  not  less  than  four  feet  wide,  while  five 
feet  is  better,  and  short  connecting  laterals  should  be  at  least  three  feet 
wide.  Plantings  should  be  set  back  far  enough  in  the  borders  to  ensure 
this  much  breadth,  free  from  overhanging.  At  the  same  time  care  should 
be  had  not  to  make  the  walks  too  wide  in  places  of  small  area.  No  face 
is  at  its  best  with  the  mouth  wide  open.  Width  should  be  considered  in 


LIGHT  AND  SHADE  IN  THE  GARDEN  53 

connection  with  area  and  have  relation  thereto.  Driveways  which  may  be 
expected  to  serve  also  as  walks  should  be  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide  in  small 
places,  and  often  as  wide  as  eighteen  feet  in  larger  areas.  This  will  enable 
vehicles  to  pass  each  other. 

On  small  places  -borders  should  usually  not  be  less  than  four  feet  in 
width,  so  that  two  or  three  plants  may  still  be  within  reach  from  the  walk 
and  the  soil  may  be  worked  with  hoe  and  rake  without  stepping  between 
them,  while  on  large  places  borders,  irregularly  two  or  three  times  that 
width,  may  be  desirable.  Usually  these  border  plants  should  not  be  set  in 
parallel  lines  but  in  a  way  to  break  lines — unless  trench  irrigation  is  planned 
for,  and  even  then  it  is  not  necessary  to  run  straight  trenches ;  turnings  in 
them  may  cause  the  water  to  run  more  slowly  and  sink  more  deeply  into 
the  soil. 

LAYING  OUT  FOR  LIGHT  AND  SHADE 

In  the  great  interior  valleys  of  California  conditions  prevail  which  are 
striking  and  characteristic  and  throw  great  emphasis  upon  points  in  garden 
design  which  are  quite  unique,  though  widely  true  of  the  whole  State  in 
varying  degrees.  Such  an  element  is  suggested  in  the  following  beautiful 
paragraphs  by  the  late  Mrs.  Minna  Eshelman  Sherman.  Writing  of  her 
Fresno  garden  experience  she  said: 

"In  laying  out  a  new  garden  in  the  country  the  direction  in  which  the 
lights  and  shadows  fall  should  be  as  much  considered  as  in  the  lighting  of 
a  picture.  The  fullest  beauty  of  light  and  shade  is  obtained  if  the  struc- 
tural lines  of  planting  are  laid  east  and  west.  The  rising  sun,  until  it 
reaches  the  Meridian,  throws  long  shadows  and  if  the  garden  groups  are 
well  planted  they  show  their  perfection  of  colors  and  shapes  through  the 
misty  morning  light,  and  as  the  sun  gains  strength  the  new  tints  of  color 
and  greater  definitions  of  form  gives  added  beauty  to  the  garden.  The 
early  morning  air  is  nimble  with  glad  quaint  fancies  when  all  is  at  its  best 
in  the  morning  freshness.  The  same  east  and  west  garden  is  glorified  by 
the  golden  sunset  and  the  lingering  afterglow  falls  in  subdued  harmony 
over  the  trees  and  shrubs.  It  is  really  two  gardens  in  one. 

"Now  in  the  garden  planted  north  and  south,  in  the  morning  the 
shadows  are  black,  cold  and  undefined ;  at  noon  the  light  pours  down  with 
a  glare  and  at  sunset,  instead  of  golden  paths  leading  heavenward  through 
the  flowers,  only  the  tree  tops  are  gilded  with  the  sun.  In  the  moonlight 
the  loss  in  light  and  shadow  is  even  more  marked,  for,  as  Hawthorne  says, 
'Moonlight  is  sculpture.'  When  the  trees,  shrubs,  flowers  and  fountains 
are  so  lighted  that  their  shadows  fall  lightly,  the  massed  effects  are  as 
though  they  were  cut  of  stone,  all  detail  is  lost  in  the  broad  sweeping  lines 
and  blocking  out  of  the  clear,  cold  light.  The  moonflowers  and  nicotines 
send  out  their  subtle  scents  and  occasionally  a  bird  stirs  sleepily  on  a  tree 
and  speaks  softly  to  its  mate.  All  is  still  in  the  great  white  glory  of  the 


54  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

garden,  until  a  mocking-bird  begins  to  sing,  at  first  low  and  softly,  almost 
under  his  breath,  at  last  ravished  with  the  glory  of  the  moon,  he  pours 
forth  a  full-voiced  song,  full  of  sweetness  more  tender  and  more  pleading 
in  the  rising  cadence  than  the  joyous  song  he  sings  when  the  sun  shines 
brightly." 

This  beautiful  manifestation  of  nature-loving  arose  from  Mrs.  Sher- 
man's life  in  a  valley  where  planting  of  tall  poplars  and  eucalyptus,  as  wind- 
breaks along  highways  and  property  lines,  has  widely  prevailed.  As  the 
strongest  winds  in  California  are  southerly  and  northerly,  except  on  the 
immediate  coast,  the  pictures  Mrs.  Sherman  paints  are  fortunately  attained 
by  the  same  east  and  west  planting  which  affords  greatest  protection. 
Therefore  her  suggestion  is  not  only  beautifully  expressed,  but  is  of  direct 
practical  advantage. 

SUN  AND  WIND  IN  THE  HOT  VALLEYS. 

In  the  interior  foothill  and  valley  situations  shade  from  the  midday  sun 
is  grateful  to  many  flowering  plants.  Such  a  sunshade  on  the  south  line 
of  the  garden  as  Mrs.  Sherman  has  in  mind  is  that  along  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  avenues  on  the  Eisen  vineyard,  Fresno.  It  is  of  tall  Lombardy 
poplars,  alternated  with  red  oleanders,  while  overhead  are  trained  grape- 
vines. The  oleanders  are  full  of  bloom  in  the  summer  and  the  aroma 
makes  the  air  heavy  with  an  oriental  sweetness.  In  the  autumn  there  comes 
the  scent  of  grapes  and  the  purple,  red  and  white  clusters  strung  overhead 
on  the  brown  stems,  with  the  tinted  leaves,  are  tone  pictures.  This  avenue, 
made  of  the  simplest  and  cheapest  growths  of  the  country,  is  one  of  the 
most  successful  for  a  valley  situation  and  is  practicable  wherever  summer 
heat  is  adequate  to  the  full  blooming  of  the  oleander  and  mountain  freezing 
does  not  injure  it  in  the  open-air  freedom  which  it  widely  enjoys  in  Cali- 
fornia. Partial  shade  is  a  real  issue  in  interior  heat  and  should  generally 
be  planned  and  planted  for.  It  will  give  much  fuller  satisfaction  with  sweet 
peas,  pansies,  asters,  gladioli  and  other  flowers  which  bloom  in  midsum- 
mer. If  shade  can  be  supplied  during  a  few  hours  of  the  afternoon,  either 
by  planting  in  the  shade  of  other  plants  or  trees  or  by  artificial  means,  in 
the  rear  garden,  it  is  desirable. 

Hot  north  winds  are  also  very  injurious  to  plants,  especially  in  spring, 
when  tender  foliage  and  buds  are  out.  The  entire  crop  of  spring  roses  may 
be  destroyed  by  one  severe  wind.  When  possible,  a  protection  should  be 
supplied.  An  evergreen  hedge  or  trees,  sufficient  to  break  the  force  of  the 
wind,  will  greatly  insure  the  safety  of  the  flower  garden.  Therefore,  as  we 
have  been  pleading  for  openness  in  the  front  areas,  we  reverse  the  argu- 
ment for  the  side  and  rear  areas  and  bespeak  for  them  a  certain  degree  of 
seclusion  and  protection  as  the  local  climatic  conditions  may  justify,  and 
these  blessings  also  the  household,  which  can  so  well  make  the  California- 
garden  a  living-place,  will  appreciate  and  enjoy. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
ELEMENTS  OF  PROPAGATION. 

From  the  point  of  view  of  the  amateur,  propagation  may  be  denned  as 
the  art  of  making  young  plants  from  old  ones.  One  might  say  "new  plants" 
from  old  ones  were  it  not  that  newness  in  a  horticultural  sense  should  imply 
some  attainment  of  difference  or  variation ;  something  not  previously  ex- 
isting with  the  same  character  or  qualities.  This  creative  act  belongs  in 
the  categories  of  the  new  science  of  "genetics"  with  which  we  are  not 
concerned  at  this  time.  To  propagate,  then,  is  simply  to  make  a  younger 
plant  as  nearly  like  an  older  one  as  nature  in  her  thirst  for  novelties  will 
allow. 

There  ar-e  two  parts  of  mature  plants  which  can  be  transformed  or 
trained  into  younger  plants.  One  is  a  seed ;  the  other  is  a  bud.  In  both 
of  these  and  not  elsewhere  nature  has  placed  the  possibility  of  securing  a 
young  plant  from  an  older  one,  and  it  is  the  function  of  propagation  to 
devise  methods,  arrange  conditions,  etc.,  in  such  a  way  that  nature  shall  be 
stimulated  to  realize  this  possibility  most  abundantly. 

Growth  from  a  bud  reproduces,  almost  without  exception,  the  plant 
from  which  the  bud  is  taken  and  this  is  often  a  very  important  considera- 
tion. Growth  from  a  seed  almost  always  includes  probability  of  variation ; 
occasionally  for  the  better,  but  usually  for  the  worse,  if  the  older  plants 
are  themselves  variations  from  fixed  or  wild  types  and  are  desirable 
because  of  their  differences  therefrom.  Fortunately,  however,  there 
is  a  way  to  limit  this  tendency  to  variation  and  to  make  growth 
from  the  seed  widely  dependable,  viz. :  to  select  seed  from  plants  of  the 
type  desired. 

The  growth  of  plants  from  seed  depends  upon  the  skill  of  the  propa- 
gator in  securing  strong  germination  and  in  protecting  the  seedling  from 
the  dangers  which  beset  its  infancy.  The  growth  of  plants  from  buds 
involves  other  requisites  in  manipulation.  Conditions  for  growth  are, 
however,  roughly  alike  and  they  are  heat  and  moisture — each  in  the  right 
degree  or  amount  for  the  particular  plant  in  hand,  though,  fortunately,  most 
plants  have  hardihood  to  withstand  various  conditions  and  do  not  usually 
exact  the  very  best — though  the  most  skilled  propagator  is  the  one  who 
places  the  least  burdens  upon  a  plant's  endurance  of  hardship.  There  is 
certainly  a  personal  equation  in  propagation,  but  there  is  no  mystery  about 
it.  The  common  remark  of  a  man,  "Everything  my  wife  plants  grows, 
but  nothing  grows  for  me,"  is  not  an  indication  of  a  magic  touch.  It  simply 
means  that  the  lady,  consciously  or  otherwise,  ministers  to  the  needs  of 
the  plant.  Perhaps  it  also  means  that  women  have  a  quicker  apprehension, 
and  more  patient  observance  of  details  than  men.  What  these  details  are, 


56  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

in  growth  from  a  seed  and  from  a  bud,  will  be  suggested  in  following 
chapters. 

The  office  of  the  seed  in  the  multiplication  of  plants  is  generally  under- 
stood, relied  upon  and  does  not  need  definition.  Less  attention  is  given  to 
the  growth  of  a  young  plant  from  a  bud  of  an  old  one  and  it  is  therefore 
excusable  to  place  a  little  more  emphasis  upon  it  in  this  connection.  Well- 
formed  buds  may  be  cleanly  cut  away  from  the  branch  of  a  woody  plant, 
with  a  morsel  of  the  connecting  tissue,  and  placed  against  the  inner  bark 
(cambium)  of  another  plant,  and  when  it  is  protected  from  too  great  loss 
or  gain  of  moisture  (sap)  by  proper  tying  down  of  the  outer  bark,  it  will 
grow  and  make  a  new  plant,  if  the  root-force  is  restricted  to  its  service. 
This  is  what  is  commonly  indicated  by  the  term  "budding."  But  "grafting," 
or  taking  more  of  the  tissue  of  the  old  plant  in  connection  with  the  bud  or 
buds  which  are  intended  to  grow,  is  also  "budding."  And  propagating  by 
"cuttings,"  by  which  desirable  buds,  or  tissue  of  root,  stem  or  leaf  capable 
of  forming  buds,  are  taken  from  an  old  plant  and  treated  in  a  way  to  die- 
velop  from  a  growth  of  cellular  tissue  (callus)  roots,  or  roots  direct  with- 
out callusing,  which  shall  cause  bud-growth,  that  is  also,  in  a  sense, 
"budding" ;  and  so  is  "layering"  or  turning  down  a  branch  so  that  earth- 
contact  shall  cause  it  to  develop  roots  beneath  a  bud  which  pushes  upward 
to  the  light.  The  making  of  a  new  plant  by  "dividing  the  roots"  of  an  old 
one ;  the  taking  of  a  bulblet  from  a  bulb,  or  the  planting  of  a  "bulb-scale," 
or  any  other  recourse  by  which  a  younger  plant  is  derived  directly  from 
the  tissue  of  an  older  one — all  are  really  propagation  by  "budding,"  because 
it  is  the  bud  which  holds  the  potentiality  of  the  plant  from  which  it  is 
separated,  and  will  manifest  it  if  its  requirements  of  heat,  moisture,  sap- 
pressure  and  light  are  duly  met  by  the  propagator. 

It  is  a  teaching  of  experience,  however,  that  different  plants  have 
different  attitudes  toward  the  effort  to  reproduce  them  from  buds,  just  as 
different  plants  produce  seeds  which  are  easy  to  grow  or  grow  with  ex- 
ceeding great  difficulty.  And  thus  it  comes  to  pass  that  although  theoretical 
multiplication  of  plants,  either  from  seeds  or  buds,  is  very  simple,  the  prac- 
tical doing  of  it  has  taxed  the  insight  and  ingenuity  of  propagators  for 
centuries,  and  there  is  still  much  to  learn  about  it.  Therefore  the  beginner 
must  expect  to  learn  much  from  his  own  failures  and  successes,  even 
though  the  book-maker  does  his  best  in  bringing  to  his  assistance  the 
experience  and  observation  of  others. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
GROWTH  OF  PLANTS  FROM  SEEDS. 

Conditions  essential  to  the  germination  of  seeds  are  heat  and  moisture 
in  degrees  and  amounts  meeting  the  natural  requirements  of  the  kind  of 
seed,  as  may  be  noted  in  certain  cases  later.  It  is,  however,  true  that 
medium  conditions  suit  seeds  of  most  plants,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the 
common  use  of  descriptive  words ;  that  is,  the  soil  in  which  they  are 
expected  to  grow  should  be  warm,  and  neither  hot  nor  cold ;  it  should  be 
moist  and  neither  dry  nor  wet.  The  presence  of  air  is  also  necessary,  but 
the  occurrence  of  a  vacuum  is  practically  impossible  in  any  gardening  outfit. 
Germinating  seeds  do  not  require  "fresh  air"  in  the  way  that  growing 
plants  or  the  higher  animals  do,  and  if  a  propagator  should  secure  for  his 
seeds  such  a  supply  as  he  might  desire  for  himself,  they  would  probably 
fail  of  germination,  through  loss  of  heat  and  moisture.  Growing  seeds  do 
not  need  "sleeping  porches" ;  they  do  better  in  "incubators."  Let  the 
beginner,  therefore,  seek  to  secure  proper  heat  and  moisture  and  these  are 
insured  chiefly  through  four  agencies — the  right  kind  of  soil ;  regulation  of 
sun  heat  by  covering,  for  conservation  or  exclusion ;  production  of  heat  by 
fire  or  fermentation ;  regulation  of  moisture  by  sprinkling  and  drainage. 
Although  the  three  last  named  are  largely  secured  through  the  action  of 
suitable  soil  as  a  conveyer  of  heat  and  moisture,  the  air  is  also  a  conveyor 
thereof  and  must  not  be  allowed  to  rob  the  soil  with  which  it  comes  into 
contact  For  this  reason  air  may  be  freely  admitted  or  must  be  largely 
excluded  according  to  the  degree  of  temperature  or  aridity  which  it  carries 
at  the  time. 

For  this  reason  seeds  usually  need  to  be  covered  into  the  soil  and  the 
soil  pressed  firmly  around  them  to  secure  uniformity  of  heat  and  moist- 
ure by  immediate  contact  which  prevents  too  free  air-movement.  Contact 
also  enables  the  rootlets  of  the  germinating  seed  to  lay  hold  on  the  soil 
particles  and  thus  begin  to  use  soil  nutriment.  It  is  impossible  to  give  an 
exact  rule  for  the  depth  of  soil-covering  for  soils  are  various  and  act 
differently  in  moisture  conveyance  and  air-movement.  A  certain  very  old 
rule  may,  however,  be  suggestive,  viz. :  that  the  depth  of  covering  should  be 
four  times  the  diameter  of  the  seed.  This  would  cover  a  sweet  pea  about 
an  inch  and  allow  a  poppy  seed  to  be  merely  pressed  into  the  surface — and 
this,  under  good  growing  conditions,  would  be  about  right  in  both  cases. 
As  most  flowers  produce  small  seeds  the  common  advice  to  "cover  lightly" 
is  good,  and  it  is  manifestly  nature's  example,  for  most  wild  seeds  are 
surface-sown.  But  there  is  another  hint  which  the  sower  of  seeds  in  open 
ground  should  take  from  nature.  The  soil  in  wild  places  usually  has  a 
crumby  surface  owing  to  its  disturbance  by  ground  insects  and  the  crumbs 


58  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

are  more  or  less  mixed  with  decaying  fibers  of  fallen  leaves,  etc.  This 
crumby  condition  admits  a  small  seed  to  enter  and  the  fibrous  material 
holds  the  crumbs  from  being  blown  away  by  the  winds  and  at  the  same 
time,  by  its  decay,  forms  humus  which  not  only  feeds  the  young  rootlets 
but  also  holds  moisture  nearby  for  their  use.  Good  garden  soil  should  have 
these  characters  not  only  at  the  surface  but  as  deeply  as  they  can  be  had, 
either  naturally  or  artificially,  as  is  discussed  on  page  26. 

The  depth  of  covering  for  seeds  depends  upon  the  character  of  the  soil, 
and,  in  California  at  least,  upon  the  expectation  of  additional  moisture.  As 
the  soil  approaches  "sandy"  the  covering  may  be  deeper  and  as  it  is  more 
"clayey,"  the  covering  may  be  shallower.  In  both  cases,  if  it  is  early  in 
the  growing  season  and  therefore  with  greater  expectation  of  rain,  the 
covering  should  be  shallower  than  late  in  the  season,  when  surface-drying 
is  anticipated.  Obviously  if  uniformly  moist  condition  is  preserved  by 
irrigation,  this  difference  becomes  of  less  importance,  though  it  does  not 
wholly  disappear  because  even  with  irrigation  the  air  is  drier  as  the  rains 
cease  or  become  lighter  and  less  frequent. 

Covering  the  soil  surface. — The  germination  of  seeds  in  the  open 
ground  is  promoted  by  covering  the  soil  after  sowing  with  a  light 
litter  of  dead  leaves,  chaff,  lawn  clippings,  broken  straw  or  other  com- 
minuted vegetable  substance,  because  this  covering  holds  surface 
moisture,  reduces  sun-baking  or  rain-puddling  which  form  a  crust,  and 
probably  protects  the  shooting  germ  also  from  heat  and  cold  to 
some  extent.  This  covering  should  always  be  light  'and  thin  to  admit 
air  freely  and  to  prevent  fermentation  of  the  substance  itself,  which 
might  injure  the  seedling.  Crusting  of  the  surface  is  destructive  to 
seedlings  in  several  ways  and  a  crust  is  more  easily  prevented  than 
cured,  although  disintegrating  the  crust,  if  it  is  allowed  to  form,  is 
essential.  This  is  most  safely  done  with  careful  downward  thrusts  of 
the  rake;  straight  raking  is  only  admissible  with  deep-covered  seeds 
and  then  before  shoots  are  too  near  the  surface.  While  vertical 
breaking  can  be  done  even  after  the  plants  have  appeared  above  the  sur- 
face. 

The  beginner  should  be  warned  against  using  too  much  coarse  stuff  in 
connection  with  seed  sowing.  Too  much  manure  may  kill  seedlings  di- 
rectly ;  too  much  manure  or  other  coarse  stuff  may  kill  seedlings  by  the 
heat  of  fermentation  or  by  drying  out  the  soil  too  much. 

The  following  is  an  explicit  recipe  for  open  ground  seedlings  which 
may  help  those  who  demand  formulas : 

"If  you  do  not  care  to  sow  in  boxes  you  can  sow  in  the  open  ground. 
Select  some  spot  that  is  sheltered  and  has  an  eastern  exposure,  spade  up 
and  rake  smooth,  sow  the  seed  broadcast  and  rake  it  in.  Then  firm  the 
ground  on  top  with  a  board,  water,  then  top  dress  with  clippings  from  the 
lawn,  straw  from  the  stable,  or,  best  of  all,  make  a  screen  out  of  cheese- 


ADVANTAGES  OF  TRANSPLANTING  59 

cloth,  drive  four  stakes  down  to  within  six  inches  of  the  ground,  and 
shade  with  the  screen.  These  different  methods  are  to  keep  the  soil  from 
baking  on  top,  for  as  the  seed  is  sown  very  shallow  it  germinates  and  the 
ground  is  baked,  which  kills  the  small  plants.  If  you  use  a  screen  it  will 
act  as  a  protection  from  late  frosts." 

SPECIAL   ARRANGEMENTS   FOR   GROWING   SEEDLINGS. 

For  the  protection  of  seed  from  unfavorable  conditions  during  germina- 
tion and  the  seedlings  from  intrusions  of  various  kinds  during  their  early 
life,  arrangements  for  covering  are  approved  by  long  experience  and  they 
are  of  such  a  simple  character  that  any  amateur  can  easily  provide  them. 
They  all  relate  to  growth  under  cover  and  involve  the  same  principles 
which  have  been  suggested  in  the  protection  of  seeds  and  seedlings  in  the 
open  ground,  and  are  designed  to  attain  similar  results.  They  also  involve 
the  art  of  transplanting  as  in  many  ways  superior  to  sowing  seeds  in  place, 
and  though  this  is  often  a  bugbear  to  amateurs,  it  should  be  resolutely 
mastered  for  there  is  great  satisfaction  in  it. 

Growing  Plants  For  Transplanting. — One  who  does  not  understand 
and  practice  the  growth  of  plant  seedlings  on  the  side,  for  transplanting  to 
permanent  place  several  weeks  later,  makes  his  gardening  harder  and  less 
likely  to  succeed.  It  seems,  of  course,  easier  to  scatter  the  seed  where 
the  plant  is  desired  to  grow,  and  that  is  the  act  which  many  are  apt  to 
think  comprises  gardening  art.  Truly,  however,  this  is  not,  on  the  whole, 
good  gardening  at  all,  though  it  may  be  the  best  for  some  plants  and  for 
some  conditions. 

The  plant  as  it  comes  from  the  seed  is  least  able  to  withstand  adversity. 
Unfavorable  temperatures,  irregular  moisture,  thirst  or  suffocation  by 
crowding  of  weeds,  loss  of  root-hairs  by  burning  crusts  or  by  mud  causing 
decay,  injury  by  marauding  insects — all  these  and  others  are  perils  of 
seedlings  in  the  open  ground.  From  the  point  of  view  of  the  grower 
other  considerations  intrude;  delay  in  waiting  for  temperature  and  moist- 
ure conditions  which  favor  the  start  from  the  seed,  causing  the  loss  of 
that  most  desirable  thing,  the  earliest  possible  growth  which  is  consistent 
with  safety;  increased  tillage  of  a  larger  area,  which  requires  a  maximum 
of  labor  and  cost  when  seedlings  are  to  be  guarded  from  injury  by  tools; 
loss  of  opportunity  to  clean  the  land  and  to  secure  deep  and  complete 
working  of  the  soil  which  a  plant  needs  to  make  its  quickest  and  freest 
growth,  as  soon  as  it  has  passed  the  perils  of  childhood  as  a  seedling. 

These  general  reflections  are  indulged  in  to  emphasize  the  fact  that  the 
amateur  flower-grower  should  be  a  persistent  transplanter  and  to  meet  a 
common  misconception  that  a  plant  is  always  better  if  the  seed  is  placed 
where  the  plant  is  to  grow.  The  facts  are  otherwise.  Transplanting  is  a 
great  help  in  saving  time  and  in  keeping  the  garden  continuously  beautiful. 


60  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

Seed  Boxes. — Although  much  can  be  done  with  open  seed  beds  of 
small  area  under  the  protection  of  a  board  fence  on  the  side  of  the  build- 
ing, and  with  the  half-shade  of  a  lath-frame  or  a  brush  cover,  as  such  may 
be  needed,  against  too  fierce  sunshine,  it  is  better  to  take  a  little  more 
trouble  and  secure  better  arrangements.  Seeds  of  trees,  shrubs  and 
herbaceous  plants  of  all  kinds  can  be  far  more  conveniently  grown  in  seed- 
boxes  or  in  "flats,"  which  may  be  either  shallow  boxes  or  "saucers"  of 
the  same  burnt  clay  as  common  flower  pots.  The  latter  are  very  shallow 
and  usually  have  only  such  drainage  as  the  porous  material  may  furnish, 
though,  of  course,  shallow  flower  pots,  such  as  are  often  used  for  ferns, 
have  drainage  holes  and  also  belong  to  the  class  of  "flats."  On  the  whole, 
however,  the  use  of  seed  boxes  is  better.  These  are  made  of  half-inch 
redwood,  about  three  inches  deep  and  preferably  rather  small  in  amateur 
work,  so  that  weight  of  box  and  soil  shall  not  be  too  great  for  easy  han- 
dling— 12x15  or  15x18  inches  are  convenient  sizes.  Several  half-inch  holes 
should  be  bored  in  the  bottom  boarding,  or  if  the  bottoms  are  made  of  two 
or  three  pieces,  cracks  wide  enough  to  escape  closing  by  the  swelling  of  the 
wood  will  do  for  drainage.  Seed  boxes  can  also  be  cheaply  made  by  cutting 
down  merchandise  boxes  to  a  proper  depth  and  making  holes  for  drainage, 
but  the  amateur  who  likes  to  use  tools  and  to  see  things  neat  and  trim, 
will  usually  take  more  pleasure  in  an  outfit  of  seed  boxes  of  uniform  size 
and  aspect. 

Sowing  In  Seed  Boxes. — Seed  boxes  should  be  filled  with  finely 
granular  soil  free  from  hard  lumps  and  containing  finely  fibrous  material. 
A  mixture  of  one-half  clean  sand,  one-quarter  garden  loam  and  one- 
quarter  fibrous  material,  such  as  finely-broken  old  cow  manure,  or  leaf 
mold,  or  decayed  grass  roots  or  rotted  lawn  trimmings,  or,  best  of  all,  the 
peat  used  by  florists.  Such  a  mixture  will  take  water  readily,  part  with  it 
without  baking  and  give  the  seedling  all  the  soil  conditions  favorable  for 
its  early  growth.  Having  thoroughly  mixed  the  ingredients,  fill  the  box 
even  full,  strike  off  the  surface  with  a  straight-edge  and  press  down  the 
soil  evenly  with  a  block  so  that  it  is  quite  firm.  This  will  leave  the  soil 
surface  half  an  inch  or  more  below  the  edges  of  the  sides.  Sprinkle  the 
seed  over  the  firmed  surface  and  press  lightly  with  a  clean  block.  Then 
sift  on  a  covering  of  the  mixed  soil,  well  rubbed  up — more  or  less  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  seed — and  water  with  a  fine  spray.  A  light  covering 
of  dry  spagnum  moss,  well  rubbed  up,  will  hold  the  soil  from  shifting 
under  the  spray.  In  the  case  of  very  minute  seeds,  fern  spores,  etc.,  the 
seed  should  be  pressed  down  and  covered  with  the  spagnum  without  the 
soil  covering. 

A  California  propagator  of  wide  experience  gives  the  following  very 
explicit  directions  for  handling  minute  seeds : 

"Some  seeds  are  so  small  that  their  form  can  scarcely  be  distinguished 
with  the  naked  eye.  Skill  is  therefore  required  to  raise  plants  from  them. 


PLANTS  FROM   MINUTE  SEEDS  61 

The  soil  should  be  of  such  character  that  it  will  not  bake.  Woods  earth, 
composed  largely  of  leaf-mold  and  sand,  does  very  well.  It  should  be 
partially  dried  and  carefully  sifted  through  a  fine  sieve.  A  flower  saucer 
is  the  best  vessel  in  which  to  sow  such  seeds.  Fill  it  with  the  sifted  soil 
till  even  with  the  margin,  then  jar  the  saucer  to  settle  the  soil,  and  with 
a  smooth  block  press  it  until  the  surface  is  as  smooth  and  level  as  a 
planed  board.  Now  press  rows,  with  the  edge  of  the  block,  just  deep 
enough  to  be  distinguishable,  and  in  these  rows  scatter  the  little  seeds 
evenly  but  thinly.  To  do  this  take  a  sheet  of  smooth  note  paper,  turn 
up  the  edges,  and  crease  one  end  slightly  to  make  a  run  for  the  seeds, 
then  shake  the  paper  along  the  row  so  that  the  seeds  will  be  distributed 
as  desired.  After  sowing,  place  the  saucer  in  another  saucer  of  larger 
size,  and  pour  warm  water  into  the  outer  saucer.  The  pores  will  soon 
admit  the  water  to  the  soil.  When  moist  enough  raise  the  inner  saucer 
until  it  stands  out  of  the  water,  or  empty  the  outer  saucer.  Water  by 
this  means,  keeping  the  soil  merely  moist — not  wet.  Cover  with  thick 
dark  paper  till  the  seeds  start,  then  remove  the  paper  and  cover  with 
glass,  raised  a  half-inch  or  more  above  the  edge  of  the  saucer,  so  that 
air  may  be  admitted  around  the  margin  of  the  saucer.  Never  cover  such 
small  seeds.  Be  very  careful  not  to  keep  the  soil  too  moist,  and  equally 
careful  not  to  let  it  dry  out.  This  caution  with  reference  to  watering 
should  be  observed  until  the  plants  are  quite  large.  Darkness  promotes 
germination,  but  is  injurious  to  plants.  Be  careful,  therefore,  to  uncover 
the  seed  vessel,  and  admit  light  as  soon  as  the  seeds  germinate.  As  the 
seeds  are  always  in  full  view  when  the  cover  is  off,  you  can  readily  tell 
when  germination  is  effected.  Admit  light  gradually  to  the  young  plantlets, 
and  never  allow  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  upon  them.  As  soon  as  large 
enough  prick  them  out  into  larger  vessels,  where  they  will  not  be  crowded. 
A  small-bladed  penknife  can  be  used  for  that  purpose," 

Distributing  Fine  Seeds. — Another  way  to  sow  evenly  very  fine 
seeds,  such  as  calceolarias,  tuberous-rooted  begonias,  fern-spores  or  in  fact 
any  very  fine  seed,  take  a  piece  of  white  pasteboard  the  size  of  the  box, 
pot  or  pan  in  which  you  are  going  to  sow  your  seeds,  rub  the  seeds  over 
the  cardboard  until  they  are  evenly  distributed,  then  invert  on  the  soil, 
and  by  tapping  gently,  the  seeds  will  fall  as  evenly  as  they  were  rubbed  on 
the  cardboard. 

AIDS  TO  GERMINATION. 

Various  chemical  substances  have  been  advocated  as  aids  to  the  germi- 
nation of  seeds,  but  none,  to  our  knowledge,  have  demonstrated  any 
efficiency  and  none  are  used  by  most  successful  propagators  who  rely  upon 
proper  application  of  moisture  and  heat,  through  the  medium  of  a  soil 
possessing  the  characteristics  noted  above. 


62  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

Seeds  with  considerable  fibrous  covering  or  appendages  are  assisted  by 
soaking  before  planting  so  that  this  absorbent  material  may  not  take  too 
much  moisture  from  the  adjacent  soil  to  accomplish  its  softening.  In  such 
cases  soaking  in  lukewarm  water  for  several  hours  is  desirable.  Very  hard 
seeds,  like  those  of  the  accacia  and  locust  trees  and  some  herbaceous 
legumes  and  other  plants,  are  greatly  hastened  by  scalding — actually  boiling 
water  does  not  injure  the  germ  and  admits  needed  moisture  to  entrance  by 
disintegrating  the  horny  covering. 

Damping-off. — There  is  apt  to  be  great  loss  of  promising  seedlings 
both  in  the  open  ground  and  in  seed  under  cover,  by  action  of  a  fungus 
causing  what  is  commonly  called  "damping-off."  This  fungus  usually  at- 
tacks the  stem  near  the  ground  and  destroys  the  plants,  though  the  parts 
above  and  below  seem  normal.  The  growth  of  this  fungus  is  favored  by 
excess  of  moisture,  either  in  the  air  or  on  the  soil  surface.  Sometimes 
seedlings  fail  because  the  ground  is  kept  too  wet,  but  in  that  case  the  root 
fails.  If  the  surface  is  too  wet  and  the  atmosphere  generally  too  humid, 
there  comes  this  "damping-off."  It  may  be  produced  by  rather  a  small 
amount  of  water,  providing  the  soil  is  heavy  and  the  water  is  not  rapidly 
absorbed  and  distributed.  On  the  other  hand,  a  lighter  soil  taking  water 
more  easily  may  grow  plants  without  damping-off,  even  though  a  great 
deal  more  water  has  been  used  than  on  the  heavier  soil.  Too  much  shade 
which  prevents  the  sun  from  drying  the  surface  soil  is  also  likely  to  produce 
damping-off,  therefore  one  has  to  provide  for  just  the  right  amount  of 
shade  and  the  right  amount  of  ventilation  through  circulation  of  the  air, 
etc.  The  use  of  sand  on  the  surface  of  a  heavier  soil  may  save  plants  from 
damping-off,  because  the  sand  passes  the  water  quickly  and  dries,  while  a 
heavier  surface  soil  would  remain  soggy.  Lime  may  be  of  advantage,  if 
not  used  in  too  great  quantities,  because  it  disintegrates  the  surface  of  the 
soil  and  helps  to  produce  a  dryness  which  is  desirable.  Success  lies  in 
keeping  the  surface  dry  enough  and  yet  providing  the  seedlings  with  moist- 
ure for  a  free  and  satisfactory  growth.  Obviously  it  is  safer  to  use  more 
water  at  longer  intervals  than  to  be  constantly  sprinkling  and  thus  keeping 
the  surface  wet.  This  is  a  matter  which  must  be  determined  by  experi- 
ence and  good  judgment  and  cannot  be  completely  covered  by  any  formula 
or  prescription. 

The  fungus  can  be  killed  in  the  soil  by  soaking  it  with  one  ounce  of 
formalin  to  twelve  gallons  of  water — using  about  three  quarts  to  each 
square  foot  by  sprinkling — but  the  amateur  will  succeed  well  enough  by 
regulating  the  surface  moisture  and  air  as  indicated. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
GROWTH  OF  PLANTS  FROM  BUDS. 

The  multiplication  of  plants  by  the  use  of  buds  has  been  outlined  in 
Chapter  VI.  The  methods  employed  arrange  themselves  in  several  groups, 
which  are  given  distinctive  names: 

1.  Cuttings :     In  which  one  or  more  buds  are  treated  in  a  way  to 
induce  the  growth  of  roots  and  the  starting  of  shoots  directly  from  the 
severed  portion  of  the  old  plant. 

2.  Layers:     In  which  a  branch  is  made  to  pass  through  earth,  contact 
with   which   induces   root-formation  and  shoot-growing,  after   which   the 
branch  is  severed  from  the  old  plant  and  cut  into  as  many  plants  as  there 
are  shoots  from  rooted  parts. 

3.  Buds :     In  which  a  severed  bud  with  a  minimum  of  bark  is  placed 
flat  upon  the  inner  bark  of  another  plant  of  a  kind  demonstrated  by  experi- 
ence to  be  disposed  to  combine  the  tissues  of  the  bud  with  its  own  and 
cause  it  to  grow  by  its  sap  pressure  and  sustenance. 

4.  Grafts:     In  which  the  branch  with  one  or  more  buds    (called  a 
"scion")    is  cut  wedge-shaped  and  placed  in  such  a  way  that  the  inner 
bark  of  the  scion  shall  make  contact  with  the  inner  bark  of  the  plant  upon 
which   it  is   desired  to  grow,  and  which  is  called  a  "stock."     Uusually 
grafting  is  done  by  splitting  or  cutting  into  the  central  wood  of  the  stock, 
so  that  the  scion  stands  more  or  less  vertical  and  makes  its  contact  by  the 
meeting  or  crossing  of  the  inner  barks  rather  than  by  being  flatly  pressed, 
one  upon  the  other,  as  is  the  case  in  budding. 

ESSENTIAL  CONDITIONS  FOR  GROWTH  FROM  A  BUD. 

In  all  these  operations  there  are  several  conditions  which  must  be 
present,  or  requirements  which  must  be  met. 

There  must  be  a  disposition  on  the  part  of  the  particular  cutting,  or 
layer,  to  make  roots  for  itself  or  on  the  part  of  the  bud  or  scion  to  accept 
impetus  and  nourishment  from  the  roots  of  the  foster  plant  upon  which  it 
is  properly  placed.  In  the  former  case  the  horticulturist  says  of  the  plant, 
"It  roots  readily,"  and  in  the  latter  case  he  says,  "It  has  affinity."  But 
this  behavior,  or  the  opposite,  has  been  found  by  experience  to  be  depend- 
ent upon  certain  conditions  in  the  soil  or  in  the  foster  plant  which  may 
determine  degrees  of  "rooting  readily"  and  "affinity"  or  may  demonstrate 
these  methods  of  multiplication  to  be  impracticable.  This  is  a  matter 
which  cannot  be  determined  by  inference  that  because  one  plant  acts  in  a 
certain  way  another  will  also  do  so ;  the  fact  must  be  learned  by  actual 
test  or  from  the  records  of  the  experience  of  others,  and  such  records  of 


64  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

propagation  have  been  handed  down  from  most  ancient  times  and  consti- 
tute an  important  branch  of  horticultural  wisdom.  It  is  encouraging,  how- 
ever, to  the  beginner  to  be  assured  that  most  plants  do  readily  accept 
multiplication  by  self-rooting  or  foster-rooting  of  severed  parts,  whenever 
the  gardener's  art  meets  its  humor,  and  therefore  it  becomes  necessary  to 
know  general  conditions  which  are  essential,  also  to  study  the  way  of  the 
plant  one  wishes  to  handle  successfully. 

Next  to  knowing  methods  which  meet  the  "disposition"  or  "affinity"  of 
the  plant,  the  essential  conditions  to  be  provided  are  moisture  and  heat — 
followed  by  light,  as  the  development  of  green  tissues  becomes  desirable. 
These  are  the  same  which  secure  the  growth  of  a  plant  from  a  seed;  in 
fact,  they  are  causative  of  all  plant  growth.  The  growth  of  a  young  plant 
from  the  seed  or  from  a  severed  part  differs,  however,  from  the  general 
vegetative  action  of  an  established  plant  from  the  very  fact  that  it  is  not 
yet  established  and  furnished  with  tissues  to  sustain  cell-action  during  tem- 
porary adversity ;  it  can  only  hold  life  in  its  cells  amid  a  favoring  environ- 
ment and  during  a  certain  period  of  time — according  to  its  own  degree  of 
resistance  and  which  is  largely  determined  by  its  own  disposition  and 
substance. 

The  presence  of  adequate  and  yet  not  excessive  moisture  is  a  prime 
requisite.  The  arch-danger  of  a  severed  part  of  a  plant  is  "drying-out"; 
another  danger  is  "drowning  out" — the  latter  much  the  less,  because  certain 
growths  are  favored  by  excessive  moisture  while  others  are  ruined  by  it. 
And  this  is  true  whether  it  be  a  cutting  in  the  soil  or  a  bud  or  scion  in 
place,  for  either  of  the  latter  may  be  dried  up  by  a  scant  sap-flow  or 
"drowned"  by  too  great  a  flow.  All  these  facts  show  that  for  all  severed 
parts  which  are  expected  to  grow  inadequate  moisture  is  destructive,  and 
excessive  moisture  may  be. 

The  second  requisite,  heat,  is  important,  but  variation  in  its  occurrence 
is  less  injurious.  Still,  the  degree  of  heat  favorable  for  different  forms  of 
growth  should  be  carefully  heeded  and  arranged  for.  Heat  in  connection 
with  proper  moisture  causes  cell-activity  or  growth,  and  the  absence  of  a 
proper  degree  of  heat  reduces  the  resistance  of  the  tissues  to  decay  germs, 
which  are  always  ready  to  invade  and  destroy  them. 

Roughly,  the  relation  of  heat  and  moisture  in  the  growth  of  a  young 
plant  from  a  severed  part  of  an  older  one  may  be  stated  in  this  way : 

The  harder,  or  more  dormant,  the  tissues  of  the  cutting,  bud  or  scion, 
the  less  may  be  the  moisture  required  to  resist  drying  out,  and  the  lower 
the  heat  required  to  induce  growth — which  may  be  deferred  for  some  time 
without  injury. 

The  softer,  or  more  active,  these  tissues,  the  greater  the  moisture  needed 
to  prevent  drying  out,  and  the  higher  the  heat  required  to  induce  quick 
start  of  growth  processes — which  cannot  be  long  deferred  without  inviting 
decay  of  the  tissues. 


w 


u 


u     • 

I- 

M       - 


if 


GROWING  PLANTS  FROM  CUTTINGS  65 

The  contrasting  conditions  and  agencies  may  be  expressed  in  this  way : 

DORMANT  TISSUE  ACTIVE  TISSUE 

Less  moisture  More  moisture 

Less  heat  Higher  heat 

Slower  start  in  growth  Rapid  start  in  growth 

Although  this  contrast  is  warranted  to  emphasize  general  relations,  it 
should  also  be  stated  that  greater  moisture  and  higher  heat  are  used  to 
hasten  activity  of  dormant  tissue  also,  when  that  is  necessary  or  desirable. 

How  these  agencies  are  brought  to  bear  in  propagation  will  be  noted  in 
the  following  discussion  of  materials  and  methods: 

GROWTH  OF  PLANTS  FROM  CUTTINGS. 

Cuttings  are  severed  portions  of  any  part  of  a  plant — leaf,  twig,  branch, 
stem  or  root — which  experience  has  shown  to  be  desirable.  These  words 
are  used  in  designating  their  source  and  they  are  also  even  more  specifically 
localized  by  the  use  of  such  words  as  "tip,"  "base,"  "terminal,"  "lateral," 
etc.  Such  words  may  be  encountered  in  discussions  of  particular  plants  in 
subsequent  chapters.  The  unqualified  word  "cutting"  is  intended  to  desig- 
nate an  serial  part  of  the  plant,  and  to  have  a  more  or  less  woody  character. 
From  this  point  of  view  cuttings  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  viz. : 

Hard  Wood  Cuttings — Which  are  usually  mature,  dormant,  and  taken 
from  deciduous  plants,  or  from  some  evergreens  during  their  brief  periods 
of  lessened  activity. 

Soft  Wood  Cuttings — Which  are  usually  immature,  more  or  less  inac- 
tive growth,  herbaceous,  and  are  taken  from  either  deciduous  or  evergreen 
plants  during  their  active  growth. 

Obviously  both  kinds  of  cuttings  can  be  taken  from  many  plants  at 
different  times  of  the  year.  Obviously,  also,  strictly  herbaceous  plants 
never  afford  any  hard-wood  cuttings,  but  many  of  them  grow  so  readily 
from  soft-wood  or  herbaceous  cuttings  that  nothing  more  than  open-ground 
treatment  is  required  for  them.  This  is  a  fact  which,  much  to  their  disad- 
vantage, many  beginners  do  not  know. 

Length  of  Cuttings. — As  a  single  bud  possesses  the  potentiality  of 
a  plant,  a  cutting  or  a  severed-part  taken  for  making  a  younger  plant  need 
only  consist  of  one  bud  and  its  adjacent  tissue  from  which  roots  may 
strike.  But  in  operating  with  such  a  small  fragment  there  is  such  imminent 
danger  of  drying  out  that  single-bud  cuttings  are  seldom  used,  except  when 
the  variety  is  exceedingly  rare  and  the  reason  for  rapid  multiplication 
imperative.  In'  such  a  case  it  is  possible  to  make  plants  from  single 
dormant  "eyes"  or  buds  by  increasing  heat  and  securing  humid  atmosphere 
as  well  as  adequately  moist  soil,  and  these  must,  in  nearly  all  cases  prob- 
ably, be  artificially  produced. 


66  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

Root  cuttings  are  more  often  single  buds,  as  in  the  case  of  fragments  of 
running  roots  or  the  subdivision  of  root-crowns,  but  this  is  rather  different 
from  the  single  bud  we  are  considering,  for  it  usually  has  certain  root-parts 
already  developed. 

From  the  difficulties  encountered  in  securing  rooting  and  top  growth 
from  a  one-bud  cutting  it  is  evident  that  a  piece  having  several  buds  is  to 
be  preferred — not  because  one  needs  top-growth  from  more  than  one  bud 
nor  because  one  has  to  cover  buds  into  the  ground  to  get  roots — for  the 
fact  is  that  in  woody  cuttings  roots  do  not  come  from  buds  nor  necessarily 
from  near  the  buds,  but  grow  first,  at  least,  from  the  soft  cellular  sub- 
stance which  forms  at  the  cut  end  of  the  cutting,  and  which  is  called  the 
callus.  In  herbaceous  cuttings  this  is  not  necessarily  true.  The  formation 
of  this  callus  depends  upon  adequate  heat  (differing  with  different  plants) 
and  upon  the  requisite  amount  of  moisture  and  the  length  of  the  cutting, 
evidently  serves  two  purposes;  first,  the  protection  of  its  own  substance 
from  drying  out  by  conserving  the  moisture  which  it  brings  from  the  plant 
from  which  it  has  been  severed ;  second,  penetration  into  the  soil  to  a  depth 
where  there  will  be  permanent  moisture  below  the  drying  of  the  surface. 
But  this  penetration  has  its  limits  because  callusing  needs  heat,  and  with 
low  heat  proceeds  slowly,  and  therefore  must  not  reach  down  into  cold 
earth  or  standing  water  or  mud,  which,  during  the  California  rainy  season, 
when  hard-wood  cuttings  are  generally  rooted  in  the  open  ground,  are  apt 
to  be  encountered.  Standing  water  also  excludes  air  and  invites  decay  in 
some  plant  tissues. 

The  length  of  the  cutting,  therefore,  depends  upon  several  conditions — 
the  nature  of  the  plant;  the  character  of  the  soil  as  related  to  heat,  moist- 
ure and  circulation  of  air;  the  anticipated  additionfof  water  by  rainfall  or 
irrigation;  the  amount  of  soil  heating  to  be  expected  from  the  sun  at  that 
time  of  the  year,  etc.  If  all  of  these  are  taken  into  consideration  cuttings 
of  different  plants  may  range  in  length  from  several  inches  to  several  feet. 
One  may  take,  for  example,  in  the  month  of  December,  a  cutting  of  a  rose 
bush,  the  thickness  and  length  of  a  new  lead  pencil,  and  plant  it  with  three- 
fourths  of  its  length  in  the  ground  and  at  the  same  time  take  a  branch  of  a 
locust  tree  six  feet  long  and  thick  as  his  arm,  and  plant  it  one-fourth  of  its 
length  in  the  ground  for  a  fence  post.  In  the  following  May  he  may  pick 
roses  from  his  rose  bush  and  tie  them  into  a  bouquet  with  foliage  from  his 
fence  post.  This  specific  statement  may  convey  to  distant  readers  a  con- 
crete demonstration  of  the  character  of  the  so-called  winter  months  in 
California. 

Manifestly  one  cannot  be  too  arbitrary  in  prescribing  length  for  cuttings, 
but  if  the  reader  insists  upon  having  a  set  of  rules,  let  it  be  this  :  (1)  Make 
cuttings  for  rooting  in  open  ground  six  to  eight  inches  in  length  and  from 
one-quarter  to  one-half  inch  in  thickness  of  wood,  as  you  may  find  it.  (2) 
Make  cuttings  for  growth  under  glass  about  one-half  these  dimensions. 


How  TO  PLANT  HARD- WOOD  CUTTINGS  67 

(3)   Plant  both  kinds  of  cuttings  with  about  one-fourth  of  their  lengths 
above  the  soil  surface. 

Hard  Wood  Cuttings. — The  beginner  should  not  put  too  much 
emphasis  on  the  word  "hard,"  for  cuttings  are  more  or  less  hard,  accord- 
ing to  nature  of  the  plant  from  which  they  are  taken  and  at  the  time  they 
are  taken.  When  the  growth  of  a  woody  plant  passes  from  the  succulent 
stage  to  the  development  of  tough  fiber  it  begins  to  be  hard  and  such  fiber 
progressively  develops  until  the  new  growth  matures  and  assumes  a  dis- 
tinctly woody  character.  Some  plants  root  readily  from  cuttings  all 


Hard  wood  cuttings  and  way  of  planting. 

through  this  progressive  period.  Others  show  readier  rooting  during  its 
earlier  than  its  later  stages.  For  example,  many  shrubs  can  be  best  started 
from  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  wood  started  in  wet  sand  during  the 
summer  months.  The  cuttings  should  be  taken  just  as  the  young  growth 
is  changing  from  a  succulent  to  a  woody  state.  Weigelas,  spireas,  philadel- 
phus  and  many  other  shrubs  propagate  very  readily  in  this  manner.  Other 
growths  start  more  readily  a  little  later  in  the  maturing,  and  others  are 
very  easy  when  fully  dormant.  Some,  like  the  rose,  root  readily  all  through 
these  changing  stages — providing  conditions  in  air  and  soil  are  kept  right 
to  prevent  drying  out.  From  this  it  may  be  rightly  inferred  that  cuttings  are 
generally  to  be  taken  from  the  current  season's  growth  or  what  is  called 
"new  wood,"  but  this  is  not  always  essential,  for  some  plants  root  readily 
from  older  growth.  Hard  wood  cuttings  are  usually  made  by  cutting  just 
below  a  bud  at  the  lower  end  because  the  harder  tissue  is  thicker  at  that 
point,  and  less  pith  is  disclosed.  But  this  is  not  always  desirable ;  in  fact,  a 
callus  often  forms  more  quickly  if  the  cut  is  made  between  the  nodes  or 
"joints,"  because  the  tissues  are  a  little  softer  and  the  cells  more  active. 
This  contrast  is  related  to  what  has  been  said  previously  about  heat  and 
moisture  as  involved  in  the  growth  of  cuttings  of  different  densities  or 


68  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

textures.  There  is,  however,  at  least  one  plant  that  prefers  to  root  when 
cut  at  a  joint — the  clematis. 

Planting  Cuttings. — As  with  seeds,  so  with  cuttings  there  must  be 
close  contact  between  the  soil  particles  and  the  tissues  which  are  to  send 
forth  radicles  to  lay  hold  upon  them.  Therefore  pressing  the  soil  about 
the  base  of  the  cutting  is  indispensable,  not  so  much  perhaps  for  the 
grasping  of  the  rootlets  as  to  exclude  too  much  drying  air  and  to  promote 
movement  of  moisture  between  the  soil  particles  toward  the  tissues  which 
are  making  growth.  The  surface  soil  above,  however,  should  not  be  com- 
pacted buit  kept  mellow  to  reduce  evaporation.  But  do  not  make  the 
mistake  of  planting  cuttings  too  tenderly;  pack  the  earth  firmly  around 
the  lower  end. 

Soil  For  Cuttings. — Clean,  sharp,  rather  coarse,  screened  sand,  such 
as  plasterers  use  for  the  first  coat,  is  ideally  best  for  the  growth  of  all 
cuttings,  although  hard  wood  cuttings  will  start  freely  in  ordinary  garden 
soil,  if  they  are  disposed  to  ''root  readily,"  and  that  has  to  be  learned  from 
experience,  and  tests  with  all  kinds  of  plants  are  commended  to  amateurs 
who  are  trying  to  get  wise.  Cuttings  which  are  not  ready-rooters  should 
be  tried  in  sand  with  due  regard  to  preserving  moisture,  of  which  sand  is 
not  retentive.  Where  the  garden  soil  is  not  mellow  there  is  a  sand  en- 
closure with  which  a  fussy  amateur  declares  he  has  grown  everything  he 
has  ever  tried  from  cuttings.  Make  a  hole  about  an  inch  in  diameter  and 
four  or  five  inches  deep  with  a  dibber  or  sharp-pointed  stick.  Fill  this  partly 
with  sand,  then  put  the  cutting  in;  fill  the  space  around  it  with  more  sand, 
packing  it  firmly  with  another  stick  and  a  mallet.  Of  course,  it  would  not 
do  to  pack  ordinary  soil  in  this  way;  besides  pouring  in  water  will  usually 
settle  the  sand  sufficiently. 

Soft  Wood  Cuttings. — Soft  wood  cuttings  are  also  variable  in  con- 
dition, from  a  fresh  growing  tip  to  a  much  harder  substance  in  which, 
however,  woody  fiber  is  either  not  present  or  has  not  hardened.  The  token 
of  fitness  for  a  soft  wood  cutting  of  many  plants  is  that  the  piece  will  snap, 
or  part  with  a  clean  break,  when  bent  back  upon  itself,  and  not  crush  or 
splinter  or  bend  without  breaking.  This  is  particularly  true  of  semi- 
herbaceous  plants,  such  as  chrysanthemums,  heliotropes,  geraniums,  fuchs- 
ias, verbenas,  coleus,  begonias,  etc.,  but  is  not  true  of  all  soft  wood  cuttings ; 
for  cuttings  of  roses,  carnations,  etc.,  should  always  be  prepared  with  a 
sharp  knife.  Here  again  we  fail  to  find  a  fixed  rule  and  have  to  be  guided 
by  experience  with  the  plants  individually.  Cuttings  roughly  broken  or 
torn  from  plants  will  root  satisfactorily  under  proper  conditions,  but  a 
clean  break  or  cut  favors  the  growth  because  there  is  no  crushed  tissue; 
besides,  cuttings  neatly  taken  do  not  disfigure  the  parent  plant  with  wounds 
slow  and  hard  to  heal. 

Soft  wood  cuttings,  and  hard  wood  cuttings  also,  if  not  planted  in  open 
ground,  are  most  easily  handled  in  the  boxes  which  have  already  been 


SOFT-WOOD   CUTTINGS   AND   TREATMENT  69 

commended  for  growing  seedlings,  filling  them  with  clean,  sharp  sand  and 
giving  them  bottom  heat  by  a  hot  bed  or  protection  in  a  cold  frame,  as  will 
be  described  in  the  next  chapter.  Soft-wood  cuttings  should  be  short, 
about  three  inches  in  length,  planted  not  less  than  two-thirds  their  length 
in  the  sand.  There  should  always  be  left  at  least  the  half  of  a  leaf,  and  in 
some  cases  one  or  two  leaves  will  not  be  too  many.  Shading  from  the 
bright  sun  will  be  necessary  to  prevent  wilting,  and  the  surrounding  atmos- 


Soft  Wood  or  Herbaceous  Cutting. 

phere  must  be  sufficiently  moist  to  prevent  evaporation  from  the  surfaces 
of  the  leaves.  The  cuttings  should  be  set  in  rows  about  an  inch  apart  and 
thoroughly  soaked  with  water  when  set.  Afterward  water  must  be  used 
with  extreme  care,  because  of  liability  to  rot  the  cuttings.  This  is  pre- 
vented by  cautious  watering  and  by  increasing  the  heat  which  hastens  the 
growth  processes.  Cuttings  may  be  watered  well  daily  for  six  or  seven  days, 
until  they  have  well  healed  over,  then  water  should  be  withheld  until  the 
sand  becomes  dry  on  top,  and  then  resumed  and  continued  at  longer  in- 
tervals. 

Soft  wood  Cuttings  will  begin  to  root  in  from  eight  to  ten  days;  hard 
wood  cuttings  in  double  that  time.  Soft  wood  cuttings  can  be  rooted  at 
almost  any  time  of  the  year,  when  the  proper  wood  is  to  be  found  and  the 
necessary  temperature  can  be  secured. 

Some  amateurs  have  found  the  following  arrangement  for  cuttings  on 
a  small  scale  satisfactory :  Take  two  flower  pots — one  two  inches  greater 
in  diameter  than  the  other.  Put  sand  in  the  bottom  of  the  larger  pot  until 


70 


CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 


the  smaller  one,  placed  inside,  has  its  top  edge  level  with  that  of  the 
larger;  then  fill  all  around  the  smaller  pot  with  sand.  Put  a  cork  in  the 
hole  of  the  smaller  pot  and  fill  it  with  water.  After  all  the  sand  has  been 
well  moistened,  insert  the  small  cuttings  in  the  sand-circle  between  the  two 
pots.  Keep  the  smaller  pot  full  of  water  and  be  sure  the  drainage  hole  of 
the  larger  pot  is  kept  open.  This  will  keep  the  sand  evenly  and  continu- 
ously moist.  The  outfit  can  be  kept  in  a  sunny  window  or  other  warm 
place  until  the  cuttings  have  rooted. 

Transplanting  Cuttings. — When  the  cuttings,  either  of  soft  or  hard 
wood,  have  made  some  leaf-growth  in  the  sand-pot,  or  in  the  boxes  pre- 
viously mentioned,  they  should  be  carefully  taken  from  the  sand  and  placed 
in  small  flower  pots,  or  at  greater  distances  apart  in  other  seed-boxes,  using 
such  prepared  soil  as  has  been  described  for  the  growth  of  seedlings.  In  a 
few  weeks  they  will  be  ready  to  transplant  to  open  ground  if  that  is  their 
destiny.  Farther  discussion  of  this  operation  will  be  found  in  a  later 
chapter  on  planting. 

GROWTH  OF  PLANTS  FROM  LAYERS. 

A  layer  may  be  defined  as  an  unsevered  cutting  because,  aside  from  the 
fact  of  immediate  severing,  the  method  of  multiplying  plants  in  this  way  is 
so  similar  to  the  ways  with  cuttings.  It  is  relatively  a  much  more  trouble- 


How  to  make  a  Layer. 

some  process  and  is  therefore  resorted  to  by  experienced  growers  only 
with  those  plants  which  are  found  to  be  difficult  to  root  from  cuttings. 
Beginners  resort  to  it  more  widely  because  they  distrust  their  ability  to  cut 
loose  from  the  parent  stem.  Layering  is  usually  done  by  taking  a  long 
shoot  and  bending  it  to  the  ground.  A  slanting  cut  is  made  about  half 
through  the  shoot  from  the  top,  and  it  is  then  bent  a  little  to  one  side  and 
pinned  down  in  a  slight  furrow  in  the  ground.  A  piece  of  wire  can  be  bent 


GROWING  PLANTS  FROM   LAYERS  71 

like  a  hairpin  to  fasten  it  in  place,  and  then  the  place  is  covered  lightly. 
If  kept  moist  the  covered  part  will  strike  root  and  the  outer  end  will  be 
found  after  a  time  to  be  rooted  and  can  be  transplanted.  By  covering  a 
long  branch  or  cane  several  plants  will  be  secured  at  one  operation,  as 
there  may  be  shoots  and  roots  at  each  joint  and  they  can  be  cut  apart  and 
separately  planted.  This  is  a  very  successful  way  to  get  new  plants  of 
"asparagus  fern" — asparagus  plumosus. 

The  same  principle  can  be  employed  in  rooting  upright  stems  without 
laying  them  down,  by  arranging  a  split  pot  or  other  receptacle  to  hold 
soil  around  such  a  stem.  This  is  a  less  certain  method  because  of  the 
difficulty  of  keeping  the  soil  continually  moist  enough  to  cause  the  rooting. 
This  requires  constant  attention. 

BUDDING  AND  GRAFTING. 

There  is  a  multitude  of  ways  of  bringing  a  part  of  one  plant  in  contact 
with  another  so  that  the  "inner  barks"  or  "growing  layers"  (cambium)  of 
both  shall  grow  together.  This  art  has  been  known  from  prehistoric  times, 
probably,  for  the  earliest  literatures  make  references  to  it,  and  all  races  of 
men  which  have  dealt  intelligently  with  plants  have  devised  ingenious 
methods  of  employing  the  natural  disposition  of  certain  plants  to  unite 
their  tissues  and  combine  their  energies  while  each  largely  maintains  its 
own  characteristics  of  growth  and  production.  It  is  the  latter  endowment 
by  nature  which  makes  the  art  of  uniting  plants  chiefly  valuable;  for  if 
plants  were  disposed  to  merge  their  characters  as  they  do  their  tissues, 
grafting  would  have  been  abandoned  by  the  ancients  as  an  art  of  confusion 
rather  than  accepted  by  them  as  a  foundation  of  systematic  production. 
From  this  point  of  view  nature  renders  great  service  to  man  both  by  what 
it  refuses  and  by  that  which  it  consents  to  do  for  him. 

Both  budding  and  grafting  are  accomplished  with  hard,  dormant  tissues 
awaiting  the  growth-impulse;  also  with  soft,  active  and  herbaceous  tissues 
— but  the  methods  and  the  environment  are  different.  There  is  in  fact  a 
certain  analogy  between  the  successful  grafting  of  hard  and  soft  tissues 
and  the  growth  from  hard  and  soft  cuttings  as  indicated  on  page  64.  The 
difference  in  affinities,  and  in  successful  methods  of  contact,  are  such  that: 
(1)  Certain  plants  unite  by  all  methods  of  budding  or  grafting;  (2)  other 
plants  unite  by  some  methods  and  not  by  others;  (3)  other  plants  will 
unite  by  no  known  methods.  As  no  one  person  can  possess  the  full  record 
of  human  experience  on  this  point,  the  trial  of  different  plants  and  methods 
is  always  open  to  the  amateur,  and,  though  his  results  will  be  mainly  re- 
discoveries, they  will  be  none  the  less  original  and  satisfying. 

Essentials  to  Budding  and  Grafting. — Next  to  natural  consent  or 
affinity,  which  has  been  sufficiently  emphasized,  indispensable  conditions 
are  the  following: 


72  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

1.  Contact  of  cambiums;  which  may  be  considerable  in  area  or  but 
little,  according  to  whether  the  plant  "buds  or  grafts  easily,"  or  otherwise, 
as  ascertained  by  experience.  2.  Protection  from  entrance  of  air  to  cause 
drying  of  the  contact-areas  and  of  the  added  part;  such  protection  being 
complete  or  partial  according  to  disposition  of  the  plant  to  produce  con- 
nective tissue  rapidly  or  slowly ;  also  according  to  the  degree  of  activity  or 
dormancy  of  the  sap  flow  at  the  time  and  the  length  of  time  before  in- 
creased activity  thereof  is  to  be  expected. 

The  chief  difference  between  buds  and  grafts  is  that  dormant  buds  are 
expected  to  "unite"  very  quickly  (although  shoot-growth  may  be  postponed 
for  months)  while  grafts  unite  more  slowly  and  must  maintain  life  longer 
before  moisture  can  enter  their  tissues  from  the  "stock"  into  which  they 
are  inserted.  For  these  reasons  the  bud  is  used  when  the  stock  is  in  active 
sap-flow ;  the  graft  may  be  able  to  wait  a  considerable  period  and  is  there- 
fore employed  when  both  scion  and  stock  are  dormant,  though  preferably 
inserted  toward  the  end  of  the  dormant  period.  In  California,  however, 
few  plants  are  as  dormant  (or  as  low  in  sap  flow)  as  in  wintry  climates. 
Even  after  leaves  have  fallen,  the  tissues  are  less  dry;  therefore  grafting 
is  possible  from  the  fall  of  the  leaf  until  the  bud-swelling  indicates  the 
approach  of  a  new  season's  growth.  Besides  the  scion  itself  loses  moisture 
more  slowly  in  the  damp  air  of  the  "rainy  season"  than  in  air  "frozen  dry" 
by  low  temperatures. 

The  method  of  protection  from  too  free  or  continued  air-access  is  de- 
termined by  the  facts  just  cited.  "Buds"  are  usually  held  in  sufficient 
contact  and  sufficiently  protected  by  wrapping  firmly,  but  not  too  tightly, 
with  soft  twine,  a  narrow  strip  of  cloth  or  of  raffia — to  be  loosened  in  a 
few  days  if  the  bud  retains  a  natural  color  or  plumpness  which  shows  that 
it  has  "taken"  or  has  made  its  union  properly.  "Grafts,"  however,  are  to 
be  firmly  held  by  a  tie,  if  the  stock  itself  does  not  make  a  strong  grip  upon 
it,  and  all  injuries  to  the  bark  by  the  insertion  and  all  cut  surfaces  both  of 
graft  and  stock  covered  with  grafting  wax,  which  accomplishes  practically 
a  complete  exclusion  of  the  air. 

Another  difference  between  budding  and  grafting  is  in  requisite  condi- 
tion of  the  "stock";  in  the  former  the  bark  must  lift  or  slip  freely — the 
condition  a  boy  requires  to  make  a  whistle;  in  the  latter  this  condition  is 
neither  requisite  nor  desirable. 

If  these  essentials  are  secured  one  may  have  wide  liberty  of  methods  in 
applying  them  and  that  is  the  reason  why  individuals  have  so  many  pre- 
ferred ways  and  why  all  nations  of  the  earth  have  methods  which  are 
characteristic  and  sometimes  widely  different  from  each  other,  and  yet  all 
nations  are  good  grafters — in  a  horticultural  sense. 

Methods  of  Budding  and  Grafting. — The  scope  of  this  book  does 
not  admit  of  detailed  descriptions  and  discussion  of  methods.  The  reader 
can  find  interesting  suggestions  in  horticultural  books  in  all  languages.  A 


PROCESS  OF  BUDDING  ILLUSTRATED 


73 


few  simple  forms,  which  constitute  those  in  widest  use,  will  be  presented 
with  illustrative  figures : 

The  adjacent  engraving  illustrates  the  method  of  budding  most  com- 
monly employed,  to  be  practiced  when  the  stock  is  in  proper  condition  of 
sap-flow,  as  already  described.  It  consists  in  lifting  the  bark  and  inserting 
a  bud  from  another  tree  in  such  a  way  that  the  inner  bark  of  the  bud  shall 
come  in  contact  with  the  layer  of  growing  wood  in  the  stock,  and  then  it 


a  b  d  e 

•  f 

Shield-budding  illustrated. 

will  be  quickly  knit  to  it  by  the  sap,  if  the  bark  is  closed  around  the 
inserted  bud  closely  enough  to  prevent  the  air  from  drying  the  two  surfaces 
at  the  point  of  contact. 

In  the  engraving  a  is  the  cutting  or  "bud  stick"  from  the  tree  of  the 
kind  into  which  it  is  desired  to  transform  the  seedling.  This  cutting  is  to 
be  made  from  the  growth  of  the  present  season,  which  has  well-formed 
buds  at  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  If  buds  are  desired  to  mature  early,  pinch 
off  the  ends  of  the  shoots  from  which  they  are  to  be  taken.  In  budding, 
select  a  smooth  place  on  the  bark  of  the  stock  and  make  a  horizontal  cut, 
and  then  a  perpendicular  cut  downwards  toward  the  roots,  as  shown  at  b 
in  the  engraving,  with  the  bark  slightly  lifted  and  ready  for  the  insertion 
of  the  bud.  Next  cut  from  the  bud  stick  a  bud,  as  shown  at  c.  This 


74 


CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 


carries  a  small  portion  of  the  wood  of  the  bud  stick,  back  of  the  bud, 
which  it  is  not  commonly  desirable  to  remove.  Insert  the  point  of  the 
bark  below  the  bud  in  the  slit  in  the  bark  of  the  stock  and  push  it  into 
place,  as  shown  at  d.  The  bud  and  stock  are  then  wrapped  with  soft  twine 
or  a  strip  of  cloth  or  raffia,  as  shown  at  e.  If  the  bark  carrying  the  bud 
retains  its  natural  color  and  does  not  shrivel  in  a  few  days,  it  is  said  to 
have  taken  and  the  wrapping  should  be  loosened  a  little,  but  not  removed. 
When  growth  starts  freely,  the  wrapping  is  removed  and  the  stock  cut 
away  about  half  an  inch  above  the  growing  shoot. 

Grafting  Methods. — Illustrations  are  -also  given  of  several  popular 
methods  of  grafting,  the  ways  to  shape  the  scions  and  to  make  the  cuts  or 


Whip  or  Tongue  Graft — a,  cut  in  stock;  b,  cut  in  scion;  c,  scion  in  place. 

splits  in  the  stock  being  sufficiently  indicated  by  the  drawings.  The  wrap- 
pings in  the  case  of  grafts  should  be  more  firmly  applied  because  usually 
new  growth  will  be  considerably  postponed  and  because  the  cleft  wood 
needs  to  be  firmly  held  to  contact  with  the  scion  from  which  it  is  apt  gen- 
erally to  part  by  shrinking  or  drying.  To  aid  in  preventing  this,  and  to 
exclude  air  so  that  the  scion  shall  not  perish  by  drying,  waxing  is  almost 
always  used  in  grafting  above  ground.  Good  wax  is  sold  in  cakes  or 
packages  by  seedsmen  and  the  amateur  will  usually  need  too  little  to 
warrant  cooking  up  the  ingredients  himself.  The  writer  has  always  found 
it  very  convenient  to  have  on  hand  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  of  liquid  grafting 
wax,  made  as  follows : 


METHODS  OF  GRAFTING 


75 


Melt  one-quarter  pound  of  resin  over  a  gentle  fire.  Add  to  it  one- 
quarter  ounce  of  beef  tallow,  and  stir  it  well.  Take  it  from  the  fire,  let  it 
cool  down  a  little  and  then  mix  with  it  a  teaspoonful  of  spirits  of  turpen- 


Graft  in  Bark. 


Cleft  Graft. 


Side  Graft. 


tine,  and  after  that  add  about  two  ounces  of  very  strong  alcohol.  The 
alcohol  cools  it  down  so  rapidly  that  it  will  be  necessary  to  put  it  once 
more  on  the  fire,  stirring  it  constantly.  Great  care  is  necessary  to  avoid 
igniting  the  alcohol. 

This  wax  is  easily  prepared,  and  when  well  corked  will  keep  for 
months.  It  is  put  on  the  wounded  part  of  the  tree,  and  the  tip  of  the  scion, 
and  soon  becomes  as  hard  as  stone.  It  is  valuable  not  only  for  grafting, 


Cleft  Graft  at  Root-Crown. 

but  for  covering  the  scars  caused  by  removing  limbs  in  pruning.  A  fairly 
good  liquid  wax  may  be  made  by  omitting  the  turpentine  in  the  above 
formula. 


76  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

Carrying  Cuttings  Long  Distances. — Hard  wood  cuttings  for  root- 
ing and  for  use  in  budding  and  grafting  can  be  carried  considerable  dis- 
tances by  packing  in  damp  moss  in  an  ordinary  wooden  box  which  gives 
some  ventilation,  or  they  will  also  go  very  successfully  without  any  moss, 
if  packed  in  a  hermetically  sealed  tin  receptacle.  The  latter  method  is, 
in  fact,  the  safer,  as  guarding  against  molding,  and  perfectly  sure  to  carry, 
providing  entrance  of  air  is  prevented  by  soldering  in  a  tin  can.  A  few 
buds  will  carry  in  a  tin  box  or  canister  with  an  ordinary  tight  tin  cover. 
If  air  can  be  excluded  the  cuttings  are  better  without  any  wet  packing. 


CHAPTER  IX. 
HOT-BEDS  AND  COLD  FRAMES. 

Efforts  for  the  multiplication  of  many  plants  by  seeds  or  cuttings 
are  promoted  by  arrangements  for  regulation  of  temperatures  and  of 
moisture  both  of  soil  and  air.  This  regulation  is  also  essential  to  the 
success  of  buds  and  grafts  of  tender  plants — especially  when  working 
in  soft  tissues,  as  suggested  on  page  65. 

It  is  obvious  that  in  California,  where  the  temperature  never  falls 
as  low  as  in  lands  with  wintry  climates,  the  arrangements  for  securing 
artificial  heat,  even  for  the  growing  of  the  tenderest  plants,  are  very 
simple  and  consist,  for  the  most  part,  in  concentrating  and  storing 
winter  sun-heat  and  preventing  the  intrusion  of  night  temperatures. 
Even  where  artificial  heat  has  to  be  actually  produced,  by  circulation 
of  hot  air,  hot  water  or  steam,  or  by  the  rising  of  heat  from  fermenta- 
tion of  manure,  but  a  few  degrees  of  elevation  of  temperature  are 
required  and  arrangements  altogether  inadequate  in  wintry  climates 
are  quite  sufficient  in  California,  in  all  but  the  high  mountain  districts. 
For  these  reasons  in  iall  amateur  operations  very  simple,  home-made, 
appliances  are  perfectly  adequate. 

HOT-BEDS. 

Hot-beds  used  in  California  are  exactly  similar  to  those  used  in 
colder  climates,  but  they  need  less  protection  from  outside  tempera- 
tures such  as  is  obtained  by  banking  with  manure  and  covering  with 
mats,  etc.  They  also  need  less  active  heat,  such  as  is  produced  by 
partly  spent  manure  or  by  using  a  smaller  mass  of  fermenting  material 
and  they  require,  perhaps,  greater  watchfulness  against  over-heating 
and  freer  use  of  ventilating  arrangements  for  admitting  outside  air. 
They  also  require  attention  to  shading  for  even  the  California  mid- 
winter sun  is  sometimes  very  fervid.  Thus,  though  the  construction  of 
hot-beds  here  is  similar  to  the  traditional  structures  of  colder  climates, 
the  use  of  them  has  to  be  guided  by  local  experience  and  observation. 

The  construction  of  a  hot-bed  is  indicated  in  Fig.  1.  It  is  made  of 
two-inch  planks,  spiked  or  bolted  together,  though  for  most  uses 
one-inch  redwood  boards  will  serve  as  well  as  planks.  It  is  in  the 
form  of  a  rectangular  box,  generally  6  ft.  wide,  because  that  distance 
is  readily  reached  across  from  the  sides,  and  as  long  as  desired. 
The  box  should  be  so  made  that  when  the  bottom  is  level,  the  sash 
will  slope  1  in.  to  the  foot,  which  will  make  it  6  in.  higher  on  one  side 
than  on  the  other.  This  slope  permits  the  sun's  rays  to  enter  more 
freely  and  allows  water  to  run  off  quickly.  The  bed  should  be  located 


78 


CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 


on  a  southern  slope  if  possible  and  run  east  and  west  with  the  lower 
side  of  the  fname  toward  the  south.  If  a  southern  exposure  cannot  be 
secured,  a  windbreak  may  be  constructed  on  the  north  side  and  the 
ends  to  shut  off  the  cold  winds  from  these  directions.  The  beds  should 
be  near  a  plentiful  supply  of  water  in  order  that  the  plants  may  be 
carefully  and  easily  cared  for.  It  is  essential  that  a  hot-bed  should 
be  located  where  water  will  not  collect  from  rains  or  watering. 
Water  must  not  stand  in  the  soil  occupied  by  the  plants  nor  in  the 
manure  below.  The  whole  outfit  must  be  well  drained. 

Common  horse  manure  containing  no  litter,  mixed  with  from  l/$ 
to  l/2  its  amount  of  straw  or  leaves,  is  used  for  providing  artificial 
heat.  Straw  or  leaves  are  added  to  prolong  the  heating  period  of  the 
manure  and  to  keep  it  from  heating  too  violently.  The  manure  is 
gathered  fresh  from  the  stable,  piled  up  and  allowed  to  heat.  Before 
fire-fanging,  however,  it  should  be  moistened  and  forked  over  and 


- 


_   _  .  _-  _ 


Fig.  i.    Sectional  View  of  Hot-Bed  Construction  and  Filling. 

allowed  to  heat  again.  During  the  heating  it  should  be  kept  under 
shelter  as  heavy  drenchings  make  it  almost  worthless.  After  it  is  well 
heated  through  the  second  time,  it  is  put  in  the  hot-bed  excavation 
almost  to  the  sash  level,  care  being  taken  to  spread  it  evenly  and  to 
have  the  corners  well  filled.  After  the  manure  has  again  warmed  up 
it  should  be  firmed  by  tramping.  The  bed  is  now  ready  for  the  soil. 
Usually  seeds  or  cuttings  are  put  into  the  soil  bottom  of  the  hot- 
bed to  get  more  direct  effect  from  the  bottom  heat  although  seed 
boxes  or  flats  are  also  used  over  the  heating  medium.  In  the  former 
case  five  or  six  inches  of  rich  soil  containing  much  humus  and  sand  are 
placed  upon  the  manure  and  after  the  temperature  of  the  soil  has 
dropped  to  90°F.  most  seeds  may  be  sown.  A  good  soil  can  be  pre- 
pared by  making  a  compost  heap  consisting  of  alternate  layers  of  good 
surface  soil  containing  grass  roots  if  possible  and  barnyard  manure, 
8  or  10  months  before  it  is  to  be  used.  This  will  give  a  loose,  rich 


HOT  BEDS  AND  COLD  FRAMES 


79 


soil  very  well  adapted  to  hot-bed  work.  It  is  not  necessary,  however, 
with  our  abundance  of  good  sandy  loams  to  delay  for  such  prepara- 
tion. Any  good  garden  soil  with  enough  sand  and  fibrous  material  to 
take  water  well  without  baking  will  give  good  results. 


THE  COLD  FRAME. 

The    cold    frame    is    essentially    a    hot-bed    without    the    heat. 


It 


depends  entirely  upon  sun  heat  and  protection  from  the  chills  of  the 
night.  It  may  be  of  lighter  construction  than  the  hot-bed  and  in 
ordinary  use  it  is  an  advantage  to  have  it  easily  portable  or  capable  of 
being  easily  knocked  down  and  set  up  again.  Fig.  2  shows  such  a 
frame  covered  with  sash  and  another  covered  with  close-textured 
white  cloth.  Either  of  these  frames  can  be  also  used  as  a  hot-bed  by 
tramping  several  inches  of  manure  into  it  after  it  has  been  placed  or 


Fig.  2.    Cold  Frames  With  Glass  and  Cloth  Covers. 

a  wide  heap  of  manure  can  be  made  on  the  ground  and  the  frame 
placed  upon  the  top  of  it.  Under  California  climatic  conditions  this 
simple  recourse  may  be  substituted  for  the  more  elaborate  construction 
of  a  good  hot-bed. 

But  the  cold  frame  is  generally  used  without  artificial  heat.  Seeds 
may  be  sown  in  the  soil-floor  of  the  frame  or  they  may  be  sown  in 
flats  or  in  seed  boxes  for  ease  in  taking  up  for  planting  out.  Seedlings 
from  hot-beds  are  often  transplanted  into  cold  frames  for  hardening- 
off  before  planting  in  the  open.  Care  must  always  be  had  not  to 
allow  too  much  sun-heat  even  in  a  cold  frame  and  partial  removal  of 
the  covering  during  the  heat  of  the  day  is  usually  desirable.  The 
substitution  of  a  lath  cover  for  the  glass  or  cloth  is  a  good  recourse 
as  the  season  advances.  By  giving  spaces  equal  to  the  width  of  the 
lath,  a  half-shade  is  secured. 

Cold  frames,  Fig.  3,  are  often  used  in  great  area  for  growing 
vegetables  or  flowers  out  of  season  and  in  that  case  boards  are  held 
in  place  by  stakes.  Such  frames  are  easily  placed  over  perennials  as 


80  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

they  stand  in  permanent  place  and  a  degree  of  forcing  secured  after 
which  the  frames  are  removed  and  the  plants  allowed  to  make  their 
later  growth  in  the  open  air.  Violets,  etc.,  are  often  profitably  forced 


Fig-  3-    Portable  Cold  Frames  to  Use  on  Plants  Growing  in  Place. 

in  this  way.  One  of  the  pictures  shows  cold  frames  placed  in  this  way 
on  a  sloping  piece  of  ground,  the  natural  earliness  of  such  a  slope 
being  hastened  by  such  slight  protection. 

COVERING  FOR  HOT-BEDS  AND  COLD  FRAMES. 

Glazed  sashes  are  best  for  covering  hot-beds  and  cold  frames 
though  white  cloth  is  used  with  great  satisfaction.  The  glass  in 
California  even  in  the  winter  should  be  whitewashed  to  prevent  too 
great  concentration  of  sun  heat,  or  too  great  radiation  of  heat  at 
night;  or  a  lath  or  cloth  cover  should  be  at  hand  for  day  or  night  use. 
It  is  often  desirable  to  remove  the  sash  during  the  day  time  and 
cover  with  the  lath  frame.  In  exceptional  cold  spells  an  old  carpet  or 
burlap  cover  may  often  be  used  to  advantage  at  night.  When  covers 
are  used  which  are  tight  like  glass  or  cloth,  great  attention  must  be 
given  to  ventilation  for  it  is  very  easy  to  allow  the  heat  to  run  high 
enough  to  kill  the  plants  or  to  produce  conditions  favorable  for 
"damping-off." 

In  the  case  of  lath  covers  or  of  lath-houses  which  are  often  used 
as  shelters  for  seed  beds  and  seed  boxes,  the  space  between  the  laths 
should  be  the  width  of  the  lath  which  gives  a  half-shade.  The  lath 
should  run  diagonally,  whether  the  cover  be  used  nearly  flat  or  stand- 
ing upright  like  the  side  of  a  lath-house,  for  this  tends  to  shorten  the 
exposure  at  particular  points.  Sometimes  the  lath  can  be  a  little 
wider  spaced  and  on  one  edge  of  each  lath  tack  cheesecloth  in  strips 


COVERING  FOR  HOT  BEDS  AND  COLD  FRAMES  81 

of  3  inches  wide  to  hang  down  like  drapery.  This  will  give  free 
ventilation  and  permit  of  proper  light  conditions.  Wire  can  be  used 
in  place  of  lath  and  the  strip  of  cloth  pinned  on. 

Cloth  can  be  made  serviceable  for  some  time  as  covers  by  water- 
proofing. Stretch  the  cloth  tight  on  the  frame.  Melt  4  oz.  paraffine  in 
a  pan  on  the  stove,  then  carry  it  out  doors  and  add  one  quart  of 
gasoline  and  mix.  Spray  or  paint  the  mixture  on  the  cloth.  The 
gasoline  will  evaporate  and  leave  the  cloth  well  waterproofed  by  the  par- 
affine. But  though  covers  are  important,  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that 
a  properly  adjusted  touch  of  the  sun  is  essential  to  most  plants.  In 
many  cases  the  cloth  and  lath  shades  of  our  seed  beds  in  California  do 
not  have  sides  or  ends;  they  are  simply  umbrella-like,  and  moss  will 
form  even  with  full  circulation  of  air  if  the  shade  is  too  dense.  For 
instance,  we  can  get  plenty  of  moss  on  the  ground  surface  on  the 
north  side  under  the  shadow  of  the  dense  head  of  a  Phoenix  palm  and 
none  on  the  south  side  of  the  same  plant.  The  air  is  free  to  circulate 
on  one  side  as  on  the|  other,  but  the  dense  shade  keeps  the  surface 
continually  damp  on  the  north  side,  and  there  the  moss  appears. 
Unquestionably  aeration  is  exceedingly  important  in  closed-in  seed 
beds  and  frames,  but  just  the  right  touch  of  the  sun  is  a  great 
thing  also. 


CHAPTER  X. 
THE  AMATEUR'S  GREENHOUSE. 

Reference  to  a  greenhouse  of  such  style  as  a  working  amateur  can 
easily  build  for  himself  does  not  warrant  the  reader  in  expecting 
a  general  discussion  of  the  growth  of  plants  under  glass.  In  this 
connection  the  greenhouse  will  be  considered  only  as  a  very  desirable 
and  helpful  adjunct  in  the  propagation  of  plants  to  be  grown  in  the 
open  air,  or,  possibly,  as  a  sanitarium  where  plants  wearied  by  use 
in  house  decoration  may  be  induced  to  perk  up  again  by  soil- 
treatment  and  by  sojourn  for  a  time  in  more  equable  temperature  and 
moister  air.  Even  for  such  simple  uses  the  amateur's  greenhouse 
gives  great  satisfaction  at  very  low  cost,  because  in  California  it  can  be 
very  slightly  built  and  does  not  require  artificial  heat  so  long  as  it  is 
restricted  jto  the  growth  of  temperate  and  semi-tropical  plants.  There 
may  be  a  few  nights  in  the  year  when  one  may  be  inclined  to  borrow 
a  small  portable  heater  from  the  house  or  turn  on  a  few  incandescent 
bulbs  or  even  install  a  handful  of  promotion  pamphlets, — thus  releas- 
ing enough  hot-air  to  rule  out  danger  from  frost  under  glass  which  is 
kept  whitened  and  thereby  checks  radiation  of  heat  stored  from  the 
previous  day's  sunshine.  For  in  California  valleys  generally  and 
largely  in  the  coast  region  also,  the  glass  will  need  to  be  always  kept 
somewhat  whitened  against  too  ardent  sun-heat.  We  have  no  trouble 
from  inefficiency  in  winter  sunshine  and  no  need  to  clean  the  glass  to  get 
the  last  ray  of  it.  If  freshly  whitened  at  the  close  of  the  rainy  season  the 
fall  rains  will  thin  down  the  coating  so;  as  to  be  about  right  for  winter. 
Therefore,  it  is  only  a  small  house  which  has  no  heating  system  but  is 
operated  largely  by  sunshine,  with  occasional  recourse  to  covering  per- 
haps, or  to  a  little  bottom  heat  from  a  lamp  under  a  seed  or  cutting  box, 
which  is  contemplated  in  this  discourse. 

How  to  Get  a  Small  Greenhouse. — The  best  way  to  get  a  small 
greenhouse  is  to  build  it  yourself — you  can  get  more  satisfaction  at 
less  cost  than  in  any  other  way.  To  present  a  concrete  demonstration 
of  this  great  truth  the  writer  will  draw  upon  his  own  experience. 
When  the  contractor  had  finished  enlarging  and  repairing  the  house, 
some  years  ago,  all  the  odds  -and  ends  of  lumber,  etc.,  were  bought  for 
a  song  and  from  the  lumber  pile  in  the  back  yard  thus  secured,  the 
construction  of  a  combined  tool  house,  dark-room,  potting  shed  and 
greenhouse,  was  entered  upon.  All  that  was  actually  purchased  as 
new  material  was  the  sash  bars,  glass,  a  little  hardware  and  roofing- 
paper  for  the  part  not  covered  with  glass.  The  total  outlay  for  new 
materials  was  less  than  $35.  A  few  old  doors  from  the  lumber  pile 


GREEN  HOUSE  AND  TOOL  HOUSE 


83 


came  in  handy  and  the  covering  of  the  building  was  done  with  old 
shingles — recovered  from  the  re-shingling  of  the  residence.  They 
were  turned  when  re-laying  and  their  beautiful  bronzy  coloration  was 
the  envy  of  all  the  stained-bungalow  builders  of  the  neighborhood. 
No  estimate  is  made  for  cost  of  labor,  because  not  a  professional 
hammer-stroke  fell  upon  the  building.  To  give  the  reader  a  definite 
idea  of  the  affair  a  ground  plan  is  presented  herewith,  drawn  on  the 
scale  of  one-eighth  inch  to  the  foot,  so  that  one  can  easily  calculate 
the  sizes  of  the  house  and  its  subdivisions  and  any  builder  can  give  a 
bid  for  the  construction  of  it,  if  the  amateur  prefers  not  to  build  it  for 
himself. 


fe 

f 

Tool  0ox 

Bed  tor  Smii.r    F.rrjs,  etc.                                         1 

hotojraph 

\ 

ic  Dark  R«o»i 

e-° 

vv 

*• 

1 

Greenhouse                                  ^/ 

.. 

Potting  B*nch 

BertcK 

StnK* 

\ 

ever  Soil  Bins 

Propagating  B*«ch 

Ground  Plan  of  Amateur's  Green  House — See  Plates  for  Exterior  and 

Interior  Views. 

As  the  writer  never  had  another  greenhouse,  he  cannot  particularly 
recommend  this  one  as  having  any  superiority  in  form  or  dimensions. 
It  was  built  to  fit  a  space  and  to  favor  construction  with  the  char- 
acter of  the  available  materials.  Its  form  is  however  probably  ap- 
provable  from  the  point  of  view  of  securing  strength  with  light  con- 
struction and  of  full  illumination  wherever  desired.  Its  general  ap- 
pearance, external  and  internal,  is  presented  in  other  engravings,  which, 
taken  in  connection  with  the  ground  plan,  render  descriptive  com- 
ment unnecessary. 

The  interior  view  shows  the  boxes  for  seedlings  and  for  starting 
small  cuttings  mentioned  in  a  previous  chapter.  For  propagation 
alone,  it  would  be  better  to  have  the  glass  lower;  that  is  nearer  to  the 
sand  surface.  But  for  amateur  uses  it  is  desirable  to  have  more 
head-room  and  greater  elevation  for  the  benching  of  potted  plants, 
so  this  distance  was  chosen  to  meet  both  purposes.  Ventilation  is 
furnished  by  openings  under  the  glass  on  both  the  high  and  low 
sides  of  the  house  and  by  opening  end  doors  when  the  sun  heat  runs 


84  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

too  high.  The  main  building  has  sills  set  on  concrete  blocks  at 
short  distances.  The  greenhouse  part  would  be  better  if  framed  upon 
brick  or  concrete  walls,  but  the  writer  is  not  even  an  amateur  mason 
and  so  the  sides  were  nailed  upon  uprights  set  in  the  ground  like 
fence  posts.  The  only  defense  for  this  is  that  redwood  posts  are 
apt  to  last  for  a  generation  and  one  would  be  ashamed  to  build  a 
cheap  greenhouse  for  his  grand-children. 

All  that  is  urged  in  support  of  the  amateur  effort  is  that  it  works 
and  gives  constant  satisfaction.  It  is  a  great  comfort  to  have  a  place 
always  ready  to  receive  a  seed  or  a  cutting  no  matter  what  outside 
conditions  may  be; — also  to  have  plenty  of  everything  right  for  plant- 
ing out  when  the  best  time  comes  for  making  a  start  or  following  for 
succession. 

The  structure  also  furnishes  what  every  amateur  should  have — a 
place  for  tools  and  garden  supplies  instead  of  having  them  stand  in 
entries  or  back  hallways  or  fighting  the  cook  for  closet  room,  which 
is  apt  to  make  a  man  desperate  enough  to  leave  everything  out  in 
the  weather,  which  is  not  «a  good  plan  even  in  California. 

The  photographic  dark  room  in  an  outbuilding  is  also  handy  for 
all  who  are  votaries  of  the  camera  for  then  they  can  slosh  water  and 
chemicals  around  freely  without  criticism.  As  however  this  is  not  a 
floral  <affair,  the  cost  of  its  fittings  are  not  included  in  the  estimate 
of  low  cost  in  this  particular  structure,  as  given  above. 

Whitening  for  Greenhouses. — Although  the  writer's  experience  has 
been  as  stated,  viz:  that  in  California  the  winter  sunshine  is  too  ardent 
for  plants  under  glass  and  therefore  he  uses  a  durable  whitewash 
which  is  never  fully  removed  by  the  rains,  it  should  be  stated  for  the 
benefit  of  those  living  in  shady  places  that  the  best  removable  white- 
wash is  made  of  three  parts  air-slacked  lime  to  one  part  Spanish 
whiting  and  enough  water  to  put  on  with  a  brush  without  running.  If 
it  is  not  thick  enough  give  another  coat  after  the  first  has  dried.  This 
mixture  is  very  easy  to  remove  in  the  fall:  you  can  wash  it  off  with  the 
hose  if  the  rains  are  delayed. 

Temperature  in  Greenhouses. — Although  this  discussion  does  not 
include  greenhouses  with  heating  systems,  sometimes  the  sun  will  heat 
a  small  house  unduly.  It  is  a  mistake  to  let  the  temperature  rise  to 
90°  or  100°  and  then  open  the  ventilators  and  doors,  and  in  less  than 
five  minutes  cause  the  temperature  to  fall  from  20°  to  30°.  It  has 
injurious  effects  on  plants.  The  nearer  you  can  keep  the  temperature 
to  70°  the  better  the  plants  will  grow,  and  instead  of  having  tall, 
spindling,  soft,  long-jointed  growth  ready  for  the  attack  of  disease, 
you  will  have  strong-stocked,  hardy  plants  that  are  not  so  subject  to 
disease,  and  such  plants  will  winter  better  even  if  the  temperature  goes 
below  freezing.  Open  the  ventilators  in  the  morning  when  the  ther- 


THE  LATH  HOUSE 


•  85 


mometer  shows  70°,  and  close  them  in  the  afternoon  when  it  drops 
down  to  70°.  On  a  very  hot  day  you  can  keep  the  temperature  down 
by  repeated  spraying  of  the  floor,  sides,  etc.,  as  it  cools  by  evaporation. 
At  such  a  time  it  might  not  be  desirable  to  wet  the  plants. 

Of  course  citation  of  these  temperatures  will  be  looked  upon  as 
a  joke,  in  some  interior  valleys  in  the  summer,  but  they  may  be  com- 
fortable to  read  about  even  there.  If  you  cannot  do  as  well  as  pre- 
scribed, do  as  well  as  you  can. 

Watering  Greenhouses. — Although  there  may  be  advantages  in 
watering  open  air  plants  at  night,  it  is  not  always  true  and  it  is  apt 
to  be  the  other  way  in  a  greenhouse.  As  a  rule  if  water  is  to  be  ap- 
plied to  the  foliage  of  plants  in  the  summer  season  it  should  be  during 
sunshine  and  it  should  dry  away  before  night  temperatures  come  on. 
Some  plants  are  quite  apt  to  mildew  if  allowed  to  go  into  a  chill  with 
wet  surfaces. 


One  of  many  forms  of  Lath  Houses. 

Greenhouse  and  Lathhouse. — Although  the  lath  house  belongs, 
structurally  and  otherwise  with  the  cold  frame  and  has  already  been 
mentioned  in  that  connection,  it  has  also  close  affiliation  with  the 
greenhouse  in  all  commercial  affairs  and  is  worthy  the  attention  of  the 
amateur  in  the  same  way.  Probably  the  next  indulgence  of  the  writer 
will  be  the  extension  of  his  building  toward  the  right  (see  ground 
plan)  with  a  construction  of  the  same  dimensions  as  the  greenhouse, 
but  with  roof,  front  and  end  covered  with  lath:  the  interspaces  equal 
to  the  width  of  the  lath,  giving  half-shade.  The  entrance  to  the 


86  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

greenhouse  will  be  through  this  addition  and  the  potting  appliances  and 
materials  will  be  moved  to  this  lath  house — leaving  the  bench  now  used 
for  potting  for  mechanical  recreations.  More  smilax,  asparagus-fern, 
etc.,  will  be  grown  for  house  decorations  on  the  fence-backing  up  the 
lath  house  and  room  will  also  be  afforded  for  the  growth  of  chrysan- 
themums, carnations,  ferns,  etc.,  with  semi-protection  and  at  a  little 
lower  temperature  than  that  of  the  greenhouse  in  the  summer  and 
autumn.  Such  plants  grown  in  pots  are  available  for  house  use  when 
in  their  best  estates. 

In  the  warmer  interior  valleys  of  the  state  the  lath  house  is  more 
valuable  than  on  the  coast  because  of  its  half-shade  and  the  moderation 
of  summer  heat,  while  it  also  is  a  safeguard  against  ordinary  winter 
frost-injuries  in  such  places.  In  the  hot  valleys  the  lath  house  is 
probably  of  more  practical  value  to  the  amateur  than  a  glass-covered 
greenhouse,  although  the  two  work  well  together  everywhere.  The 
fiercer  the  heat  and  the  brighter  the  sunshine  the  closer  the  lath  can 
be  brought  together  and  a  three-quarter  shade  will  often  give  quite 
enough  light  for  ferns  and  many  other  plants.  In  this  way  the  partial 
covering  of  the  lath  house  with  beautiful  annual  flowering  vines  or 
with  deciduous  perennial  vines  is  rational,  for  the  vine-shade,  which 
might  be  too  dense  in  winter,  disappears.  By  such  use  the  lath  house 
may  become  ornamental  as  well  as  useful. 


CHAPTER  XL 
PLANTING,  PRUNING  AND  TRAINING. 

Except  in  places  where  rock,  clear  sand  or  clay  may  make  it  de- 
sirable to  open  a  considerable  excavation  to  remove  bad  stuff  or  to 
mix  better  material  with  it,  it  is  seldom  necessary  to  dig  large  holes 
for  planting  anything.  Small  plants,  set  with  trowel  or  dibble,  or 
larger  plants,  set  by  throwing  out  a  few  spadefuls  of  earth  will  do 
quite  as  well  as  if  placed  in  large  excavations — if  the  soil  is  good  <as 
described  in  Chapter  III  and  well  prepared  to  meet  the  requirements 
outlined  in  Chapter  IV.  The  purposes  of  those  chapters  is  to  make 
the  whole  soil-mass  of  the  garden  good  and  then  new  plantings  will 
not  require  rifle-pits — which  are  always  expensive  and  often  danger- 
ous because  they  favor  the  formation  of  subterranean  mud-puddles, 
which  very  few  plants  like  to  grow  in,  and  will  keep  out  of  if  they  can. 
And  an  established  plant  is  much  better  able  to  keep  its  roots  out  of 
the  mud  than  a  newly-set  plant  is  to  gain  establishment  in  it.  In  a 
deep,  well-drained  soil  or  in  a  shallow  soil,  if  hole-drainage  is  pro- 
vided, one  can  sometimes  get  a  greater  development  of  plant  in  a 
given  time  by  digging  cellars  and  filling  them  with  plant  food  and  the 
policy  thereof  may  be  commended  to  gardeners  who  have  hurry-up 
employers,  or  to  park  planters  who  have  restless  city-fathers  to  serve, 
but  both  these  problems  are  professional  and  therefore  out  of  our  line. 
To  the  amateur  such  procedure  is  generally  a  temptation  to  put  his 
faith  in  a  hole  and  to  neglect  other  important  things  which  should  be 
done  after  planting. 

Firmness  in  Planting. — The  conditions  emphasized  as  desirable  in 
preceding  chapters  in  the  planting  of  seeds  and  cuttings,  and  in 
transplanting  seedlings,  are  applicable  to  the  planting  out  of  older 
rooted  plants  of  all  kinds.  Firming  the  lower  soil  into  close  contact 
with  the  roots,  and  leaving  the  upper  soil  loose  for  exposure  to  the 
air  are  essential  to  success.  Both  are  concerned  directly  with  the 
maintenance  of  moisture  in  the  soil,  which  the  plant  is  first  to  use  in 
its  re-establishment,  and  with  the  proper,  but  not  excessive  entrance 
of  air  for  root-activities.  The  amateur  is  apt  to  be  too  gentle  in  his 
planting.  It  is  not  well  to  -act  as  though  you  were  disposing  downy 
coverlets  upon  the  limbs  of  a  sleeping  babe;  it  is  better  to  press  heavily 
with  your  foot  upon  the  soil  next  to  the  roots — as  though  you  were 
trying  to  stamp  the  life  out  of  the  brat.  If  the  spot  has  been  properly 
prepared  for  planting,  it  is  deeply  loose  and  the  pressure  is  necessary 
to  restore  firmness  at  the  root-place,  the  balance  of  the  earth  may  be 
left  to  re-assume  a  proper  condition  at  its  leisure — which  it  will 
surely  do  by  natural  processes. 


CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

The  Use  of  Water  in  Transplanting.— It  is  particularly  desirable  in 
transplanting  in  light  soils,  and  in  any  soil  at  dry  times,  to  use  water 
in  transplanting.  This  not  only  adds  moisture  for  the  safety  of  the 
plant,  but  it  water-settles  the  earth,  making  such  contact  with  the  roots 
as  has  been  prescribed.  In  such  practice  the  plant  should  be  put  in 
place,  the  earth  sufficiently  compressed  by  hand  or  foot  to  hold  it  at 
about  the  proper  depth  and  upright,  and  then  a  few  quarts  or  gallons 
of  water  poured  into  the  hole,  according  to  the  size  thereof.  There 
should  be  water  enough  to  act  upon  a  relatively  considerable  mass 
of  the  loosened  lower  soil.  In  planting  in  rows  a  hoe  or  plow 
furrow  may  be  drawn  along  the  line,  the  plants  properly  placed  and 
firmed  and  water  run  in  the  furrow  to  avoid  carrying.  When  the  water 
has  disappeared  and  before  the  soil  dries  to  baking  or  cracking,  the 
loose  soil  should  be  hand-drawn  or  cultivated  over  the  moist  soil  and 
no  pressure  applied. 

Treatment  of  Roots  at  Planting. — It  is  not  at  all  necessary  to  make 
supreme  efforts  to  get  all  the  roots  of  a  plant  when  lifting  for  replant- 
ing. From  <a  few  inches  to  a  foot  is  usually  quite  enough  for  any 
plant  of  a  size  which  a  man  can  handle  alone.  Moving  larger  growths 
will  be  discussed  in  the  chapter  on  trees.  Nor  is  it  necessary  to  save 
all  the  fibrous  roots;  if  the  transplant  is  balled,  that  is  if  it  is  taken  up 
with  a  ball  of  earth  enclosing  the  roots,  the  fibrous  roots  are  saved  in 
the  process,  and  in  moving  woody  evergreens  this  is  a  desirable  thing 
because  an  evergreen  is  always  using  more  or  less  sap  and  is  apt  to 
quickly  perish  by  drying,  but  deciduous  plants,  which  can  endure  con- 
siderable drying  when  free  of  leaves,  and  herbaceous  plants  which 
start  growing  immediately  in  a  new  place  and  thus  supply  them- 
selves at  once,  do  not  require  all  the  roots  you  can  get — in  fact  a 
better  plant  is  usually  made  when  a  good  part  of  the  roots  are  re- 
moved. Roots  wounded  by  digging  up  should  be  shortened  to  a  point 
above  the  wound,  and  masses  of  rootlets,  which  would  prevent  soil 
contact  with  larger  roots,  should  be  clipped  away. 

Plants  which  have  grown  too  long  in  pots  are  liable  to  have 
twisting  roots,  like  a  corkscrew,  and  when  planted  as  they  come,  may 
blow  over  for  lack  of  lateral  or  supporting  roots.  Sometimes  such 
roots  can  be  disengaged  and  straightened  but  if  not  it  is  often  desir- 
able to  take  a  sharp  knife  and  cut  down  through  these  twisting  roots 
before  planting,  and  the  plant  will  throw  out  good  supporting  roots 
that  will  hold  it  against  ordinary  winds  and  storms.  Some  ornamental 
trees  have  been  condemned  because  they  had  bad  roots  and  blew  over. 
They  had  been  taken  out  of  boxes  and  pots  without  cutting  the  roots 
which  circled  around  and  could  not  hold  up  the  tree. 

Depth  of  Planting. — The  plant  should  usually  stand  in  the  new  place 
at  about  the  same  level  it  previously  occupied  and  if  this  cannot  be 


PRUNING  AFTER  PLANTING  89 

told  by  the  earthstain  it  is  generally  disclosed  by  the  aspect  of  the 
bark.  In  a  light  sandy  soil  a  plant  may  generally  be  planted  a  little 
deeper  than  it  stood  in  the  nursery  and  in  a  heavy  soil,  disposed  to 
be  too  wet,  by  nature  and  drenching,  it  may  be  planted  a  little  higher, 
but  there  is  always  danger  of  unthrift  'by  much  change  from  the 
depth  at  which  the  plant  previously  grew. 

Reduction  of  the  Top  Growth. — Unless  the  plant  be  a  woody  ever- 
green the  characteristic  shape  of  which  it  is  essential  to  preserve 
(and  moving  with  <a  ball  of  earth  is  prescribed  for  such)  it  is  desir- 
able to  prune  away  half  or  more  of  the  top  growth  at  transplanting, 
to  allow  for  the  break  of  a  smaller  number  of  buds  and  to  secure  more 
vigorous  growth  from  them.  This  is  the  ultimate  motive  for  cutting 
back  although  it  is  generally  expressed  in  terms  of  helping  the  plant 
to  live;  the  real  reason  is  to  help  the  plant  to  live  well,  from  your 
point  of  view.  Therefore  cutting  back  should  be  done  always  with 
regard  to  the  symmetry  of  the  new  plant;  not  arbitrarily  cutting  back 
everything,  say  one  half,  but  removing  many  shoots  entirely  and  re- 
ducing others  less,  perhaps,  if  that  will  make  for  a  good  form.  Any 
plant  ought  to  be  glad  to  lose  its  dangling  arms  to  save  the  length 
of  its  ears;  if  that  is  what  you  desire.  However,  cut  back  and  promote 
a  stronger  growth  in  directions  which  are  to  be  preferred — and  then 
give  the  plant  food  and  drink  and  soil  stirring  to  make  that  strong 
growth  possible. 

Shade  After  Transplanting. — Although  the  necessities  of  com- 
mercial work  require  transplanting  seedlings  or  rooted  cuttings  at  all 
hours  of  the  day,  the  amateur  may  usually  choose  his  time  and  for 
taking  plants  from  shelter  to  the  open  ground  the  closing  hours  of  the 
day  are  best  because  the  transpiration  is  less  in  the  cooler  hours  of 
the  night.  This  refers,  of  course,  to  evergreens  and  herbaceous  plants 
especially.  Sometimes  one  can  wholly  -avoid  a  wilt  of  the  plant  by 
working  on  a  cloudy  day  or  in  the  evening,  and  spraying  after  planting. 
In  any  case  shading  the  leafy  plant  from  direct  sunshine  for  a  time  is 
desirable.  For  small  plants  perhaps  nothing  is  better  than  inverting 
an  empty  flower  pot  over  them.  The  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot 
will  give  them  all  the  air  they  require.  For  larger  plants,  inverted 
boxes,  shades  of  paper  or  cloth,  or  other  shadow-devices,  are  worth 
more  than  the  trouble  of  providing  them. 

PRUNING  AND  TRAINING. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  give  explicit  suggestions  for  pruning  and 
training  different  plants  in  the  later  chapters  which  will  be  devoted  to 
them.  In  this  place  a  brief  suggestion  of  the  general  purposes  of 
pruning  may  be  made. 


90  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

The  chief  purpose  is  to  secure  a  strong  growth  of  the  plant  capable 
of  foliage  and  bloom  which  is  characteristic  of  the  particular  plant  in 
its  best  estate.  Therefore  the  ultimate  purpose  indicated  above  as 
belonging  to  cutting-back  after  transplanting,  must  be  steadily  held 
in  view  in  treating  an  established  plant,  for  the  same  preponderating 
force  in  the  root  must  always  be  striven  for.  In  the  established  plant, 
pruning  is  not  to  get  more  growth.  Observations  have  demonstrated 
that  one  is  apt  to  get  more  inches  of  new  growth  on  a  thrifty,  estab- 
lished plant  by  not  pruning.  But  the  growth  is  less  capable  of  good 
foliage  and  bloom.  Therefore  fewer  inches  with  greater  thickness 
and  capability  is  desirable.  To  that  end,  pruning  is  indispensable  and 
is  effective  if  one  does  not  neglect  to  give  the  plant  what  it  needs  to 
make  such  growth;  and,  even  under  <a  degree  of  hardship,  the  pruned 
plant  pleases  better  because  its  force  is  concentrated.  Therefore  the 
chief  purpose  of  pruning  is  served  by  removing  or  shortening  slim 
growths  always —  by  reducing  or  shortening  stronger  growths  to  cause 
the  development  of  better  new  growths,  when  the  habit  of  the  plant 
is  to  proceed  from  leaf  to  flower  from  the  same  bud-break,  and  to 
serve  the  same  purpose,  when  several  bud-breaks  are  expected  in  <a 
season  by  pruning  as  many  times  as  such  breaks  are  expected  to 
appear.  Therefore  a  gardener  should  be  always  thinking  and  always 
pruning.  He  should  usually  do  some  pruning  every  time  he  cuts  a 
bloom,  he  can  even  have  a  thought  for  the  force  of  the  root  when  he 
cuts  a  bloom-stem  from  a  bulb.  Therefore  do  not  ask  a  friend  "is  it 
the  time  to  prune  now"?  It  is  a  time  to  prune  whenever  there  is  a 
reason  for  it,  clear  in  your  head.  It  is  just  as  important  to  have  your 
thought  sharp  as  your  shears. 

Another  purpose  in  pruning  is  to  attain  or  retain  proper  form  and 
symmetry.  To  practice  this  one  must  have  a  proper  conception  of 
symmetry  in  his  head  and  foresight  to  prophesy  the  direction  and 
character  of  the  new  growth,  which  is  to  follow.  This  can  only  be  at- 
tained by  observing  and  thinking;  it  can  only  be  hinted  at  by  conversa- 
tion or  writing.  If  you  say  to  an  expert  friend:  "Please  tell  me  how 
you  prune  roses,"  he  will  probably  be  somewhat  flustered  and  say: 
"Oh,  get  rid  of  a  good  part  of  the  old  wood  and  shorten  the  new 
growth  about  one  half."  It  is  about  as  good  a  general  statement  as  one 
can  make,  but  it  requires  a  study  of  the  bush  itself  to  decide  what  old 
wood  should  go  and  what  should  stay  to  support  the  new  and  to 
decide  also  whether  a  new  shoot  should  go  entirely  or  whether  a 
half,  a  quarter  or  a  single  bud  of  it  be  retained.  Aside  from  the 
purpose  in  the  preceding  paragraph,  that  purpose  has  now  to  be  reach- 
ed by  way  of  securing  good  form  also.  Pruning  for  form  is  >a  kind  of 
sculpture  and  no  one  can  become  a  sculptor  by  getting  a  recipe  to 
knock  off  half  the  marble. 


TRAINING  AND  SUPPORTING  91 

Another  purpose  in  pruning  is  to  secure  symmetry  in  combination 
with  abundance  of  bloom.  Those  plants  which  bloom  from  the  old 
wood  directly  must  of  course  be  learned  by  observation  and  pruned 
in  a  way  not  to  lose  this  while  serving  other  purposes.  Some  of  these 
are  tip-bloomers  and  these  must  not  be  shortened  but  enforced  by 
reducing  the  number  of  shoots  when  they  are  crowding  each  other  out 
of  light  and  air. 

These  are  but  a  few  of  many  general  considerations  involved  in 
pruning.  Their  character,  however,  sufficiently  indicates  that  pruning 
is  a  process  of  original  perception  of  facts  about  the  particular  plants 
to  be  treated  and  original  conception  of  ways  to  help  them  meet  your 
notion  of  what  is  their  best  performance.  They  can  hardly  be  ex- 
pected to  abandon  their  natural  purpose  but  they  will  serve  yours 
generously  if  you  will  think  enough  to  issue  intelligible  orders. 

TRAINING. 

The  term  training  is  best  applied  to  treatment  of  garden  plants 
which  grow  with  artificial  support  of  some  kind.  The  purposes  already 
cited  for  pruning  self-supporting  plants  hold  also  with  those  which  are 
trained  and  become  even  more  important,  possibly,  from  some  points 
of  view.  It  is  the  writer's  observation  that  prevalently  in  California 
plants  which  require  pruning  are  better  served  than  those  which  re- 
quire training  but  the  discussion  of  that  matter  will  be  relegated  to 
the  chapter  on  Vines. 

PLANT  STAKES  AND  TIES. 

As  pertaining  to  the  support  of  all  kinds  of  plants  and  therefore 
desirable  to  discuss  in  this  place  once  for  all  is  the  subject  of  plant 
stakes  and  tying  materials. 

The  wooden  stake,  such  as  the  amateur  can  point  and  paint  in 
quantity  in  his  workshop  on  a  rainy  day,  <are  too-  well-known  to  require 
comment.  Of  a  dark-green  color  they  are  very  praiseworthy.  Dark 
green  stakes  with  white  tips  are  very  neat  but  too  artificial  and  con- 
spicuous although  they  may  be  claimed  to  be  simulacra  of  green  plant- 
stems,  flower-tipped. 

For  serviceability  and  inconspicuousness,  the  writer  has  found 
nothing  to  compare  with  iron  stakes  made  by  cutting  up  small  gas  and 
water  pipe  into  lengths  of  three  and  four  feet.  Local  plumbers 
usually  have  old  pipe  from  house  repairs  which  they  will  sell  at  a 
fraction  of  the  cost  of  new  pipe  and  since  the  fire  of  1906,  San  Fran- 
cisco has  been  a  mine  of  such  material  which  has  become  a  specialty 
with  junk  dealers.  The  writer  has  had  four  or  five  hundred  old-pipe 
stakes  in  use  for  fifteen  years  or  more  and  they  are  still  serviceable :  being 
pulled  up  and  re-set  as  required.  They  can  be  driven  into  place,  even  in 


92  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

hard  ground,  without  making  a  hole.  If  deeply  driven  they  are  capable  of 
supporting  a  tall  standard  plant  through  a  gale  of  wind. 

For  lighter  uses,  such  as  supporting  tall  herbaceous  plant  stems  during 
blooming,  mature  canes  of  one  of  the  smaller  bamboo  species  are  very  de- 
sirable and  can  be  taken  at  any  time  from  a  clump  grown  primarily 
for  its  beauty,  as  will  be  noted  in  a  later  chapter. 

In  addition  to  the  use  of  ordinary  twine,  small  rope,  etc.,  for  tying 
plants  to  their  supports,  two  other  recourses  have  given  long  satis- 
faction. One  is  the  common  use  of  galvanized  wire,  thrust  through  >a 
piece  of  refuse  garden  hose,  which  should  be  kept  for  this  purpose 
when  beyond  other  uses.  If  the  hose  is  cut  to  the  right  length  a 
very  neat  support  can  be  made  by  twisting  the  wire  at  the  ends  with 
pliers  and  the  bearing  upon  the  hose  will  prevent  injury  to  the  bark. 
Another  good  material  is  second-hand  insulated  wire  which  the 
electricians  often  have  more  than  they  care  to  gather  up.  The  heavy 
wire,  which  with  its  insulating  coating  is  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  is  strong  enough  for  heavy  strains  and  there  are  many 
lighter  insulated  wires  in  a  common  job-lot.  It  is  a  good  plan  for  the 
amateur  to  gather-in  a  bushel  of  it  in  assorted  sizes  from  the 
electrician's  bargain-counter. 

But  for  most  constant  use  in  tying  plants  large  and  small,  from  a 
holly-hock  to  a  campanula,  also  for  tying  bouquets,  etc.,  every  garden 
should  grow  its  own  ties,  so  that  hunting  for  twine  need  never  be 
necessary.  Such  a  plant  is  New  Zealand  flax  (Phormium  tenax).  The 
leaf,  simply  torn  up  into  ribbons,  furnishes  strong  bands  which  become 
even  stronger  on  drying,  and  they  can  be  trusted  to  hold  for  a  long 
time.  This  plant  grows  very  freely  in  the  coast  region  and  in  the 
cooler,  moister  parts  of  the  interior  valleys  and  can  be  grown  in  a 
corner  although  it  is  really  a  handsome  plant. 

The  dry  leaves  at  the  base  of  the  head  of  a  dracaena  (sometimes 
called  "yucca  palm")  are  good  for  tying  and  there  are  always  some 
on  the  tree  even  if  you  have  cleaned  up  all  that  fall  to  the  ground.  If 
you  wish  to  prepare  a  lot  in  advance,  gather  up  the  dry  leaves,  soak 
them  in  hot  water  and  then  tear  them  into  strips,  about  five  from  one 
leaf,  and  they  will  be  found  pliable  and  durable — being  disposed  to 
hold  on  for  months.  You  can  also  use  these  withes  for  coarse  basketry 
if  you  are  inclined  that  way. 


PART  III:  THE  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  YEAR. 
CHAPTER  XII. 

CHARACTERS,  ADAPTATIONS  AND  REQUIREMENTS 
OF  THE  MONTHS. 

There  are  various  reasons  why  the  attempt  to  prescribe  specific 
things  to  be  done  in  particular  months  of  the  year,  is  difficult  in 
California.  First,  there  is  the  difference  in  climatic  conditions  in  dif- 
ferent localities  which  may  render  some  prescriptions  unfit  for  certain 
places,  while  they  may  apply  well  in  others.  Second,  there  may  be 
variations  in  seasons  which  may  render  a  prescription  suitable  for  one 
year  and  not  exactly  timely  for  another.  Third,  there  is,  in  most 
California  regions,  an  absence  of  extremes  of  heat,  cold  and  of  excess- 
ive moisture  and  a  lack  of  association  of  either  with  definite  dates.  In 
fact  what  are  commonly  called,  in  wintry  climates,  "well-marked 
seasonal  changes"  do  not  occur  in  California,  except  upon  the 
mountains,  and  we  have,  instead,  a  gliding  movement  from  one  to  the 
other  of  our  two  seasons,  a  lack  of  definiteness  in  the  beginning  and 
ending  of  each  and  an  absence  of  marked  difference  in  heat  between 
the  two.  Such  a  moderate  climate  gives  a  plant  a  great  latitude  in  its 
acceptance  of  growing  conditions  and  bestows  upon  him  who  grows 
plants  a  long  period  during  which  he  can  successfully  minister  to  their 
requirements.  Considerations  of  this  nature  have  already  been  outlined 
in  Chapter  II.  We  have  to  repeat  reference  to  them  in  connection  with 
our  effort  to  indicate  the  timely  duties  of  the  different  months,  to 
reduce  if  possible  the  reader's  displeasure  at  our  indefiniteness.  The 
fact  is  that  California  climatic  conditions  give  so  many  chances  of 
being  early,  so  many  chances  to  catch  up  if  not  too  neglectful  and  so 
many  chances  of  reasonable  satisfaction  even  if  late,  that  the  precise 
reader  will  search  in  vain  to  find  designation  of  the  one  exactly  best 
time  to  do  a  thing.  As  has  been  indicated  in  the  chapter  on  climate, 
one  characteristic  of  the  state  is  -a  very  long  growing  season  and  there- 
fore there  may  be,  taking  the  years  together,  no  absolutely  best  time, 
but  several  very  good  times.  The  conclusion  for  the  reader,  therefore, 
must  be  not  to  refrain  from  doing  a  thing,  because  no  exact  time  is 
designated  as  best,  but  to  keep  doing  things  at  different  times  and 
thus  enjoy  the  full  breadth  of  reward — for  this  comes,  as  the  scripture 
saith,  to  those  who  do  not  weary  in  well  doing. 

Out  of  respect  to  the  ancients  we  begin  the  roll-call  of  the 
months  with  January.  Really  one  month  would  do  about  as  well  as 
another  for  a  starting  point.  In  prescribing  activities  for  the  months 


94  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

in  another  line  of  horticulture*  the  writer  has  chosen  to  begin  with 
July,  chiefly  because  that  is  the  point  in  the  dry  season  between  two 
rainfall-years,  which  is  designated  as  a  starting  point  by  the  meteor- 
ologists, but  growing  plants,  if  furnished  with  adequate  moisture,  pay 
no  attention  to  it.  January  is  a  central  point  in  the  rainy  season  but 
is  also  a  divide  in  the  temperature  record.  It  usually  shows  the  lowest 
temperature  of  the  twelve-months,  but  not  low  enough  to  stop  growth 
and  blooming,  except  the  few  plants  which  actually  tolerate  no  frost. 
With  a  whole  year  as  a  continuous  growing  season,  for  all  plants  except 
these  few  and  others  which  persist  in  the  deciduous  habit,  one  naturally 
cannot  find  dormancy  to  start  from  and  we  therefore  respect  the 
precedent  of  the  ancients  and  the  convenience  of  the  moderns,  with 
whom  the  opening  of  a  new  year  is  a  point  of  beginning  and  of  making 
good  resolutions — of  which  a  garden  should  be  one. 

JANUARY. 

January  in  the  California  garden  is  a  month  of  limitations,  but  of 
opportunities  also,  for  though  open-air  blooms  are  relatively  few,  they 
need  not  be  absent.  Observation  of  suburban  gardens  will  demon- 
strate the  fact  that  California  has  no  flowerless  month.  But  January 
certainly  has  trials  for  the  gardener.  The  rains  may  be  continuous  and 
cold,  in  places  of  largest  precipitation,  and  the  ground  become  so  full 
of  water  that  planting  is  not  wise,  and  there  may  be  films  of  ice  which 
show  that  the  temperature  is  too  low  for  tender  plants,  and  yet,  even 
in  such  places,  the  Japanese  quince  will  clothe  its  dark  branches  with 
ruddy  brilliance;  the  flowering  almond  will  almost  conceal  its  light 
green  twigs  with  snowy  bloom,  and  the  camellia  will  contrast  its  dark 
green  foliage  with  a  wealth  of  white,  pink,  red  and  variegated  rosettes 
which  strive  to  atone  for  loss  of  fragrance  by  excess  of  formality. 
Many  other  shrubs  will  also  serve  the  planter  who  desires  to  gather 
January  flowers,  while  those  who  only  plan  for  flush  seasons  of  most 
common  growths  may  have  gardens  scant  of  beauty,  except  the  glory 
of  the  geraniums,  which  n.ever  resent  neglect. 

But  regions  of  heaviest  rainfall  -and  frosts  do  not  measure  the 
January  possibilities.  The  thermal  belts  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  state 
have  much  light,  warm  soil,  which  quickly  frees  itself  of  surplus  water, 
and  in  such  places  even  slanting  sunbeams  arouse  a  host  of  both 
woody  >and  herbaceous  plants  to  blooming.  In  such  places  also  hardy 
deciduous  trees,  shrubs  and  flowering  plants  can  be  freely  transplanted 
and  cuttings  of  shrubs  and  vines  started  on  their  courses.  In  fact,  in 
the  drier  parts  of  the  state,  where  winter  temperatures  are  high,  Jan- 
uary is  one  of  the  great  planting  months  of  the  year,  because  <an  early 

*  "California  Vegetables,"  Chapter  X. 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  95 

start  is  very  desirable  in  preparation  for  later  resistance  of  heat  and 
drouth. 

Still  other  situations  there  are  where  January  is  practically  a  closed 
month,  even  in  California.  In  the  mountain  valleys  there  is  real 
winter,  though  it  be  but  short,  and  in  some  low  lands  there  are  such 
sharp  frosts  and  excess  of  water  that  it  is  better  to  wait  than  to  work 
and  worry.  The  California  gardener  must  learn  to  recognize  condi- 
tions and  to  apply  principles  rather  than  try  to  work  by  the  almanac. 
For  this  reason  the  effort  has  been  to  make  the  injunctions  of  this 
California  Garden  Calendar  suggestive  and  not  didactic.  There  is  the 
widest  liberty  in  California  to  the  gardener  who  proceeds  by  sound 
judgment  of  the  mutual  relations  of  soil,  moisture,  heat  and  the  re- 
quirements of  different  plants.  Here  also  are  the  keenest  disappoint- 
ments for  those  who  proceed  upon  unreason  or  cherish  the  notion  that 
a  glorious  climate  favors  horticultural  license. 

As  in  some  parts  of  the  state  January  is  the  month  of  least  activity 
in  the  garden,  it  should  be  the  most  active  in  thought  and  study  about 
gardening.  Nearly  all  good  treatises  on  horticulture  contain  state- 
ments which  will  be  suggestive  for  California  effort  if  close  thought 
on  the  correlation  of  conditions  be  undertaken.  Thus,  in  a  sense,  all 
horticultural  literature  becomes  helpful  in  California  if  one  uses  it 
aright,  because  California  is  really  an  embodiment  of  the  horticultural 
possibilities  of  all  zones  except  the  strictly  tropical.  The  realization 
of  this  quality  of  the  state  enables  one  to  understand  California  garden- 
ing, and  reduces  to  a  minimum  the  requirement  of  actual  experience, 
which  is  essential  to  success. 

Particularly  valuable  in  designating  plants  which  have  become  so 
popular  as  to  be  widely  salable,  and  therefore  worthy  of  planters'  at- 
tention, are  the  catalogues  of  the  California  seedsmen  and  nurserymen, 
which  often  contain  also  pertinent  suggestions  of  local  practice.  All 
of  their  promises  may  not  be  realized,  because  they  -are  apt  to  speak  of 
a  plant  at  its  very  best,  and  common  conditions  do  not  often  allow  it 
to  reach  this  high  estate.  There  are  sometimes  overestimates  of  the 
quality  or  suitability  of  novelties,  but  everyone  should  have  a  profit  and 
loss  account  "limited,"  with  novelties,  and  charge  as  cheerfully  to  one 
side  as  to  the  other,  because  the  cautious  one  will  regulate  indulgence 
so  that  the  balance  will  be  on  the  right  side  and  represent  either  ac- 
complishment or  wisdom.  But  here  again  the  favoring  California 
conditions  protect  the  planter.  Ten  novelties  will  -probably  succeed 
here  where  one  is  found  worth  growing  in  more  trying  climates. 

In  the  way  of  specific  suggestions  it  may  be  said  that,  as  conditions 
favor,  the  activities  which  began  last  October  may  be  continued  for 
much  later  effects.  Where  the  garden  is  in  January  a  mass  of  bloom 
from  early  fall  planting  it  is  timely  to  plant  the  same  things  for  bloom 
in  spring  and  summer.  This  will  include  both  annuals  -and  perennials 


96  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

from  seed  or  from  transplanted  seedlings  or  roots.  Even  the  winter 
flowering  bulbs  may  still  be  planted  with  bulbs  kept  dormant  by  the 
dealers,  and  the  summer  flowering  bulbs,  such  as  gladioli,  anemonies, 
ranunculus,  etc.,  may  be  started  for  the  early  summer  bloom,  wherever 
the  soil  is  warm  and  not  too  wet.  Roses  are  as  nearly  dormant  as  they 
ever  become  and  may  be  freely  planted,  under  similar  conditions  of 
soil.  The  same  is  true  of  nearly  all  deciduous  shrubs,  trees  and  roots 
from  the  nurseries.  In  Southern  California  particularly,  January  plant- 
ing is  rewarded  by  a  good  establishment  of  transplants  for  thrifty 
growth  and  bloom  later.  In  the  greenhouse  or  in  the  frames  both 
hard  and  soft  wood  cuttings  can  well  be  started  and  hard  wood  cuttings 
of  roses,  etc.,  in  the  open  ground  will  find  fine  conditions  for  rooting. 

FEBRUARY. 

Viewing  California  as  a  whole,  February  is  the  greatest  month  of 
the  year  for  sowing  and  planting,  which  is  quite  a  distinction  in  a  state 
within  whose  borders  every  other  month  of  the  year  also  sees  seeds 
sown  and  plants  set.  February  is  greatest  because  it  lies  midway 
between  the  beginning  of  the  California  springtime  in  October  and 
the  end  of  the  California  springtime  in  May  and  is,  therefore,  the 
average  time;  it  is  also  greatest  because  it  looks  forward  to  increasing 
temperature  and  decreasing  rains,  while  October  looks  forward  to  de- 
creasing temperature  and  increasing  rains.  The  October  springtime 
is  for  the  sowing  of  hardy  plants;  the  February  springtime  also  favors 
these  and  adds  to  them  a  host  more  which  need  higher  heat  and  a 
longer  duration  of  it.  But  even  February  does  not  offer  complete 
freedom  from  frost  in  all  places  and  so  there  comes  in  California  a 
third  beginning  of  spring  in  May,  when  the  most  tender  things  are 
safe  everywhere  except  on  the  high  mountains,  where  each  little  valley 
has  a  springtime  of  its  own,  while  harvesting  is  in  progress  in  the 
greatest  valleys  below.  Such  is  the  infinite  variety  of  California. 

In  view  of  these  facts  how  difficult  it  is,  as  has  been  previously  sug- 
gested, to  tell  all  Californians  what  to  do  in  their  gardens  at  a  certain 
date!  In  February,  however,  in  the  average  California  valley  location 
and  in  the  wide  district  surrounding  San  Francisco  bay,  the  lengthening 
days  bring  increasing  heat  to  the  soil  which  is  also  prepared  by  escape 
of  surplus  water,  which  sometimes  falls  in  January,  to  welcome  the 
touch  of  the  gardening  tools  and  to  bring  to  quick  activity  the  seeds 
which  are  sown.  The  deciduous  fruit  trees  begin  to  blossom,  the  weeds 
grow  riotously;  the  gardening-fever  which  is  a  May  epidemic  in  wintry 
climates,  burns  in  the  veins  of  the  California  amateur  in  February  and 
he  is  irresistibly  impelled  to  sniff  the  fragrance  of  the  warm,  moist  soil 
and  to  scatter  the  seed,  although  no  garden  calendar  for  similar  latitude 
in  any  other  part  of  the  continent  advises  him  to  do  so. 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  97 

Whenever,  then,  the  well-drained  soil  breaks  kindly  at  the  invitation 
of  the  spading-fork,  plunge  it  in  to  the  crosshead  with  even  motion — 
digging  deeply  and  by  dexterous  flips  with  the  points  secure  the 
evenly  broken  surface  which  delights  the  eye  of  the  true  gardener. 
Rake  lightly  and  not  too  finely,  for  there  are  heavy  rains  to  come  and 
.  a  degree  of  coarseness  in  the  surface  is  a  partial  escape  from  undue 
compacting.  Do  not  clean  the  ground  before  spading;  litter  it  rather 
with  manure  and  with  the  weeds  which  are  cleaned  from  the  walks. 
All  this  vegetable  refuse,  together  with  the  grass  and  weeds  which  are 
growing  on  the  space  itself,  should  be  dug  deeply  into  the  soil  to  in- 
crease its  humus  and  to  promote  richness  and  friability.  Then  plant 
everything  except  the  few  things  which  insist  on  frost  freedom.  All 
the  things  which  on  the  seedmen's  packets  are  marked  "hardy"  and 
"half  hardy"  are  safe  in  February  in  California,  except  in  low  frosty 
places  in  the  valleys  and  on  the  mountains. 

If  the  pruning  of  shrubs  earlier  in  the  season  has  been  neglected,  as 
is  apt  to  be  the  case  in-  the  amateur's  garden,  do  it  now.  Cut  out  the 
weak  old  wood  and  shorten  the  growth  of  the  previous  year  to  good 
strong  wood  buds  which  will  now  be  swelling.  Such  a  bud  on  the  rose 
will  bring  a  shoot  which  will  bloom  in  May. 

Take  cuttings  for  new  rose  bushes  now  if  you  have  not  done  it 
already,  for  dormant  wood  will  root  well  and  bloom  soon  after  the 
bush  from  which  it  was  taken.  Put  in  all  common  geranium  cuttings — 
even  the  current  growth  will  root  readily.  Multiply  all  common 
border  plants  like  violets  which  grow  by  division  of  the  roots. 

February  is  a  good  month  to  do  anything  in  the  garden  which  has 
been  overlooked  earlier  in  the  rainy  season  and  nearly  everything  also 
from  which  one  can  look  forward  with  keen  anticipation,  for  much  of 
the  satisfaction  of  the  coming  months  will  depend  upon  what  is  well 
done  in  February. 

If  you  have  not  already  planted  out  roses  and  hardy  shrubs  from  the 
nurseries  do  it  now.  Keep  the  spring-flowering  bulbs  growing  well 
with  manure  and  water  if  the  rains  are  light.  Continue  planting  such 
bulbs  as  gladioli,  -watsonia,  etc.,  and  plant  seed  or  trans-plant,  the  whole 
list  of  herbaceous  perennials.  Start  pansies,  stocks,  etc.,  in  the  boxes 
for  later  planting  out.  Continue  starting  carnations  from  cuttings  and 
by  all  means  plant  out  irises,  if  it  has  not  been  undertaken  earlier. 
Watch  for  plant  lice  on  all  plants  nearly  and  dose  them  with  soap 
sprays  or  insect  powders.  An  early  killing  lessens  later  trouble. 

MARCH. 

The  lion  and  lamb  combination  of  weather  conditions  which  character- 
izes the  month  of  March  in  wintry  climates  is  unknown  in  California. 
There  is  no  contest  between  lengthening  days,  with  more  direct  sun  rays, 
and  northerly  blasts  and  the  temperature  advances  evenly  and  sometimes 


98  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

quite  rapidly.  Only  in  the  valley  bottoms,  or  on  the  high  foothills,  where 
there  is  too  great  proximity  to  lingering  snow-fields  above,  does  frost 
sometimes  intrude.  March  in  the  field  brings  lusty  growth  of  native  for- 
age plants  and  wild  flowers;  the  roadsides  become  ribbons  of  verdure 
embroidered  with  golden  poppies,  blue  lupins,  yellow  primroses,  scarlet 
Indian  plumes  and  a  host  of  others,  while  the  fallow  plains  are  expanses 
of  floral  carpets.  Nature  thus  advises  the  gardener  of  the  season's  advance 
and  exhorts  him  to  haste  in  preparations  for  summer  growth. 

March  is  the  dilatory  man's  opportunity  to  atone  for  past  neglect.  Late 
as  it  is  in  the  growing  season,  he  can  still  dig  and  rake,  sow  and  plant,  and 
secure  a  portion  of  the  greater  reward  which  earlier  work  would  have 
produced.  Even  sweet  peas,  which  should  have  been  planted  the  preceding 
autumn,  will  make  a  grand  midsummer  display  from  March  planting,  if 
kept  from  thirst  by  such  treatment  as  will  be  prescribed  in  following 
months.  The  same  is  true  of  all  the  hardy  and  half-hardy  flowers  and 
even  ornamental  shrubs,  trees,  etc.,  if  you  can  get  plants  which  have  not 
awakened  from  their  winter  dormancy.  Nursery  men  sometimes  favor 
dilatory  planters  by  keeping  such  plants  dormant  for  late  sales,  so  that  one 
may  plant  out  young  trees,  lilac  bushes,  and  so  forth,  while  older  trees  near 
by  may  be  in  or  even  beyond  their  bloom.  California,  by  the  length  of  its 
planting  season,  is  the  place  where  the  early  planter  can  gain  more  and  the 
late  planter  save  more,  than  in  any  country  of  sharply  defined  seasonal 
changes. 

March  is  a  good  month,  however,  for  taking  the  very  tender  things 
by  the  forelock.  Under  a  glass  sash  and  even  without  bottom  heat,  seeds 
of  such  sensitive  growths  can  be  sown  to  secure  plants  for  setting  in  the 
open  when  they  are  safe  in  the  frosty  places.  Thus  plants  of  balsams  and 
other  tender  flowers  can  be  brought  along  strongly  and  safely  with  the 
slight  heat  and  the  protection  from  frost  which  the  cold  frame  affords.  A 
brave  show  of  the  hardier  summer  blooming  bulbs  can  also  be  had  from 
March  planting,  though  the  tenderer  ones  can  wait  for  April.  Gladioli  do 
splendidly. 

Although  March  is  a  good  month  for  a  late  beginning,  it  should  not  be 
forgotten  that  the  dry  season  is  approaching  rapidly  and  that  all  tillage 
should  now  be  finer  and  closer  than  earlier  in  the  season.  Fine  pulveriza- 
tion of  the  surface  is  the  blanket  which  covers  the  moister  soil  below  from 
too  free  contact  with  the  thirsty  air.  Sometimes  heat,  almost  like  that  of 
midsummer,  makes  a  preliminary  visit  to  the  garden  and  gives  succulent 
things  a  setback  which  they  can  withstand  if  deep  drying  is  prevented  by 
tillage.  Sometimes  March  is  almost  like  May,  with  its  flowers,  but  lightly 
touched  by  showers  which  give  but  little  to  the  soil.  Therefore,  begin  in 
March,  if  it  is  dry,  the  frequent  stirring  of  the  surface  soil  around  the 
plants  and  give  unoccupied  places,  which  are  reserved  for  later  planting  of 
tender  things,  a  good  surface  working  also.  Do  not  let  weeds  grow  any- 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  99 

where  in  March;  it  is  too  late  to  use  them  by  digging  under  and  every 
weed  is  robbing  the  soil  of  moisture.  Therefore,  even  if  you  have  to  begin 
in  March  with  the  garden,  try  your  best  by  diligence  and  activity  to  atone 
for  the  delay — otherwise  a  start  in  March  will  be  disappointing. 

Seed  of  pansies,  asters,  stocks,  cosmos  can  be  sown  in  open  ground  if 
the  grower  has  not  learned  .the  advantage  of  earlier  box-work  under  glass 
or  cloth.  Pansy  plants  from  the  boxes  should  be  set  out  in  blooming  places 
and  mulched  well.  Sweet  peas  should  be  given  supports  if  one  wishes  great 
quantities  of  straight-stemmed  flowers.  Rooted  carnations  should  go  into 
the  open  ground  and  more  cuttings  still  put  in  for  later  blooms.  New 
violets  can  be  made  from  runners  or  by  dividing  clumps.  Bulbs  which  have 
bloomed  in  pots  for  house  decoration  will  be  ready  to  be  transferred  to 
open  ground  to  make  good  foliage  and  thus  allow  the  bulb  to  recuperate. 
This  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  freshness  of  the  bloom  passes. 
Freesias  and  some  other  bulbs  are  helped  by  removing  spent  flower  stems 
to  prevent  seed  formation. 

APRIL. 

April  is  the  month  of  most  riotous  growth  in  the  California  garden. 
The  increasing  heat  causes  the  plants  to  drink  deeply  of  the  abundant 
moisture  which  the  soil  retains  from  the  generous  rainfall  of  the  preceding 
months  and  the  few  April  showers  help  also  to  bring  April  flowers — for  the 
California  April  showers  need  not  wait  for  May  temperatures  as  in  the 
east.  The  raindrops  glisten  upon  the  rose  petals  and  upon  the  pansies, 
which  bloom  freely  now  from  seed  sown  last  autumn,  while  tulips  and 
other  cup-shaped  blooms  may  overflow  with  accumulations  from  warm 
rains.  But  April  showers  are  sometimes  very  light  and  sometimes  absent, 
and  the  newcomer  is  surprised  at  the  speed  with  which  his  flowers,  vege- 
tables and  early  fruits  advance  in  the  clear  warm  sunshine.  As  early  as 
April  in  California  there  "come  perfect  days" — balmy  and  ecstatic  to  the 
senses  and  effective  in  the  garden  for  pushing  forward  plants  whose  root- 
ing has  been  deeply  made  from  earlier  planting.  But  an  April  start  in  the 
garden,  though  it  may  seem  very  early  from  an  eastern  point  of  view,  is 
very  late  in  California  and  may  be  disappointing  with  many  things  usually 
grown  from  seed,  and  the  newcomer  is  apt  to  lay  upon  the  climate  the 
blame  which  belongs  to  his  own  delay.  In  California  gardening  an  early 
start  is  half  the  battle. 

And  yet  April  is  one  of  the  greatest  of  the  planting  months,  because 
even  the  tenderest  things  are  safe,  except  in  exceptionally  frosty  places, 
and  because  it  is  the  planting  time  for  midsummer  blooming  bulbs,  tubers 
and  roots.  Dahlias,  tube-roses,  tuberous-rooted  begonias,  tigridias,  and 
others  should  be  taken  from  their  dry,  cool  storage  places  and  well  set  in 
the  warm,  moist  soil.  Seedlings  of  balsams,  cosmos,  asters,  centaureas, 
nasturtiums,  poppies  and  the  rest  of  the  blooming  host,  should  be  removed 


100  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

from  frames  and  seed-boxes  to  the  open  ground.  Planting  out  of  hardy 
perennials,  carnations,  asters,  etc.,  can  also  be  continued  for  the  sake  of 
succession,  with  good  results,  if  particularly  well  cared  for  with  the  hoe 
to  guard  against  drying-out,  or  if  brought  along  by  irrigation.  April  is 
also  a  great  month  for  subdivision  of  roots  of  herbaceous  perennials,  which 
grow  in  clumps;  callas,  fleur-de-lis,  agapanthus,  calladiums,  water  lilies, 
and  many  others.  It  is  time  to  begin  chrysanthemum  planting  for  fall 
bloom,  and  the  best  of  the  new  shoots  broken  from  the  old  roots  will  make 
good  plants  in  open  air  garden  practice,  though  later  starting  from  soft 
cuttings  is  usually  preferred  by  florists.  All  sorts  of  border  plants,  like 
the  new  growth  of  violets,  and  so  forth,  do  better  if  transplanted  now  than 
later. 

But  there  is  harvesting  as  well  as  planting  in  April.  The  rose  should 
be  relieved  of  excess  of  blooming  shoots,  the  strongest  chosen  to  remain, 
and  freed  frorrt  excess  of  buds  if  fine  large  flowers  are  desired.  Carna- 
tion stems  should  also  have  side  blooms  pinched  away  for  the  same  result. 
In  plant  protection  there  is  also  much  to  do,  for  nearly  the  whole  host  of 
pests,  both  insects  and  fungi,  respond  to  benign  beckoning  to  the  delight 
of  life  in  April,  and  the  beginner  should  haste  for  expert  advice  as  to 
destructive  measures. 

The  lawn  must  not  be  neglected  in  the  rush  of  April  duties.  Too  many 
entrust  the  grass  to  the  kindness  of  nature  because  it  looks  fairly  well,  and 
expect  to  rush  to  its  assistance  after  other  things  are  finished.  It  is  a 
mistake.  Good  care  of  the  lawn  in  April  will  bring  much  pleasure  with  it 
later.  Cut  out,  pull  out,  rake  out,  for  each  weed  has  its  own  best  treat- 
ment, all  the  foreign  growth  which  the  winter  conditions  have  encouraged, 
so  that  the  freshly  starting  grass  may  have  air  and  space  to  weave  its 
velvety  mat.  Cut  frequently,  apply  commercial  fertilizer  and  sprinkle,  if 
the  showers  be  few,  and  thus  secure  a  fine  spring  condition  of  the  turf  as  a 
foundation  of  summer  satisfaction. 

It  is  still  possible  to  put  out  summer  flowering  bulbs  if  they  have  been 
kept  dormant.  Iris  should  be  allowed  to  dry  gradually  after  blooming. 
Early  planted  gladioli  and  watsonias  should  be  well  watered  and  manured 
as  they  will  be  shooting  early  flower  stems.  Scale  insects  on  house  plants 
should  be  diligently  watched  for  and  removed,  and  in  the  open  the  whole 
army  of  leaf-eaters  will  be  getting  busy,  and  the  garden  pump  or  atomizer 
should  be  always  ready. 

MAY. 

May  gathers  the  last  of  the  exposed  places  into  .the  frost-free  period 
which  the  thermal  situations  entered  weeks  and  months  before,  conse- 
quently, thought  of  protection  may  be  abandoned  and  the  tenderest  plants 
brought  into  the  open  air  everywhere,  except  perhaps  in  the  high  mountain 
valleys  below  the  snow  peaks.  All  seeds  can  still  be  sown  for  succession 
of  bloom  or  of  esculent  parts  and  thus  is  the  reputation  for  California  for 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  101 

continuous  beauty  and  year-around  freshness  of  vegetables,  justified.  But 
May  work  in  the  garden  should  proceed  with  different  motive  and  method 
from  those  of  the  many  rainfall  months  preceding.  The  secrets  of  success 
are :  Conserving  the  moisture  from  the  winter  and  spring  rainfall  and 
the  judicious  addition  of  moisture  by  irrigation.  Seed  should  be  placed 
deeper  in  the  earth  because  the  immediate  surface  must  be  kept  loose  and 
fine,  and  will,  therefore,  become  dry  and  inert,  while  the  roots  extend  in  a 
moist  lower  layer.  The  finely-pulverized  dry  surface  protects  this  moist 
layer  from  the  thirsty  air;  therefore,  plant  low  and  keep  the  upper  earth 
free  from  roots  by  the  constant  action  of  the  hoe  and  rake.  The  newcomer 
from  the  land  of  summer  rains  must  learn  a  new  handling  of  old  tools 
during  his  first  May  in  the  California  garden — stirring  the  soil  deeply  and 
preventing  crusting  at  or  near  the  surface.  It  is  not  enough  to  cut  or 
scrape  away  the  weeds  with  a  flat  motion  of  the  hoe ;  the  blade  should  be 
sent  down  three  or  four  inches  with  a  strong  stroke  and  the  surface  deeply 
loosened  and  pulverized. 

May  is  the  planting  month  for  tender  plants  and  for  summer  blooming 
bulbs  in  places  where  April  is  too  wet  or  frosty.  It  is  also  a  planting- 
month  of  considerable  importance  near  the  coast,  because  a  summer  of  less 
heat  and  greater  aerial  moisture  favors  planting  later  than  in  the  interior 
valleys.  It  is  not  that  there  is  less  advantage  in  early  work  near  the  coast, 
but  that  late  planting  is  less  apt  to  be  disappointing.  Therefore,  as  one 
takes  up  winter  and  spring  flowering  bulbs  when  their  foliage  dies,  the 
vacant  places  can  be  covered  with  late  sown  annuals  or  better  still,  by 
planting  out  seedlings  already  stockily  grown  in  the  cold  frame  or  open-air 
seed  bed.  The  beginner  usually  has  much  to  learn  of  the  advantage  in 
transplanting  such  seedlings  compared  with  the  growth  from  seed  in  place. 
The  garden  continuously  well  filled  with  varied  summer  and  autumn  bloom 
is  the  reward  of  the  one  who  always  has  seedlings  in  reserve  for  trans- 
planting. 

May  is  the  month  to  learn  the  value  of  the  mulch,  and  then  one  will 
practice  it  all  the  year.  The  clippings  from  the  lawn  furnish  a  con- 
tinuous supply  of  mulch;  make  a  thick  carpet  of  it  around  all  newly 
transplanted  seedlings.  It  protects  the  soil  from  the  thirsty  air  and 
it  lowers  the  temperature  a  little — reducing  to  a  minimum  the  shock 
of  transplanting.  It  also  promotes  the  growth  from  late  sown  seeds 
which  might  perish  from  lack  of  moisture  just  after  germination.  The 
more  frequently  the  lawn  is  cut  the  better  are  the  clippings  for  a  mulch. 
Not  only  do  they  have  the  summer  use  described,  but  in  the  rainy 
season  they  cushion  the  stroke  of  the  heavy  rain  drops  and  protect 
the  surface  from  crusting. 

May  is  the  starting  time  for  the  gorgeous  autumn  display  of 
chrysanthemums.  Start  the  plants  from  cuttings  of  the  vigorous 
spring  shoots  from  the  old  stock.  Cut  loose  entirely  from  the  old  roots 


102        itj  \.  :*•'  'I-1-       ."GmroRN/A  GARDEN  FLOWERS 


and  trust  the  soft  tissue  to  make  better  new  ones  for  itself.  Some 
growers  do  best  with  tip  cuttings  —  the  top  six  or  eight  inches  of  the 
new  shoot  planted  two  thirds  of  its  length  in  the  ground,  but  the  lower 
parts  of  the  sterns  also  do  well.  For  grand  color  effects  in  the  Cali- 
fornia open-air  garden  all  through  the  autumn  and  early  winter,  the 
chrysanthemum  has  no  rival. 

Pinch  the  early  bloom-shoots  out  of  new  carnation  plants;  it  will 
cause  them  to  grow  more  stocky  for  later  bloom. 

Start  new  plants  of  herbaceous  annuals  and  perennials  for  fall 
blooming.  Seed  sown  so  late  in  the  open  ground  should  be  lightly 
covered  with  litter  to  keep  the  soil-surface  moist. 

Dahlia  tubers  may  be  planted  out  for  early  fall  bloom. 

Vines  should  be  watched  and  undesirable  shoots  shortened  or 
pinched  out. 

Smilax  should  be  shooting  new  growth.  Cut  away  all  the  old 
growth,  cover  the  roots  with  a  dressing  of  well  rotted  manure,  water 
well  and  string  up  the  new  growth  before  it  gets  tangled  badly. 

Keep  the  sweet  peas  .from  making  pods  if  you  desire  continuous 
bloom.  Mulch  the  surface  to  keep  the  roots  in  moist  soil  and  water 
well.  Drench  the  foliage  well  to  keep  down  red  spider.  Keep  the  spent 
pansies  picked  and  prevent  seed-formation. 

House  plants  should  be  watched  against  drying  out  for  summer 
evaporation  is  beginning. 

See  that  the  whitewash  is  in  good  shape  on  the  green  house  and 
frame  sashes. 

JUNE. 

The  chief  June  task  of  the  novice  in  California  gardening  is  to  get 
wisdom  about  the  use  of  water.  The  long,  dry  season  lights  its  torch 
even  amid  the  brilliance  of  the  early  summer  bloom  and  will  scorch 
the  blossoms  and  sere  the  lawn  almost  before  the  gardener  is  assured 
of  its  approach.  To  prolong  the  early  bloom  and  to  maintain  thrift 
in  the  late-blooming  plants,  June  work  must  be  earnestly  pursued.  Its 
first  essential  is  to  maintain  vigorously  the  deep  and  fine  tilth  of  the 
surface  soil  which  was  enjoined  for  May;  the  second  is  to  use  water 
wisely. 

Two  things  rule  in  the  garden  use  of  water;  quantity  and  method 
of  application  —  and  they  rule  jointly;  neither  can  displace  the  other 
without  reducing  desirable  effects.  The  whole  truth  about  it  would 
require  a  treatise,  but  -a  few  hints  may  be  helpful.  The  safest  thing 
to  do  first  is  to  knock  a  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  eastern  watering-pot: 
it  will  look  just  as  well  that  way  in  a  picture  and  that  is  about  the  only 
use  for  it  in  California.  Let  the  watering-pot  perish  because  it  pro- 
duces an  impression  of  wetness  without  the  substance  thereof.  The 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  103 

arm  aches  with  an  assurance  of  much  water,  the  surface  of  the  soil 
responds  with  muddy  declaration  of  the  same  thing,  and  the  plant  gives 
the  He  to  both  vain  shows  by  spindling  and  yellowing  to  its  death. 
There  is  in  fact  too  little  water  applied  and  it  is  applied  in  the  worst 
possible  way  and  it  results  in  a  puddling  of  the  surface,  which,  by 
repeated  action,  deepens  until  the  soil-mass  around  and  beneath  the 
plant  becomes  a  slab  of  baked  soil  from  which  moisture  flies  away  by 
evaporation  and  into  which  after  a  time  neither  moisture  nor  air  can 
penetrate,  nor  roots  extend.  The  watering-pot  has  killed  the  plant — 
therefore,  knock  a  hole  in  the  bottom  of  it. 

Two  things  well  used  will  bring  escape  from  the  evil  just  indicated: 
the  garden  hose  and  the  garden  ditch.  For  seedlings,  or  other  small 
plants,  in  borders  and  for  the  lawn,  the  garden  hose  with  a  fine  nozzle 
is  the  proper  medium  to  convey  water,  providing  the  water  is  spread 
in  a  gentle  shower  of  fine  drops  and  continued  long  enough  to  pene- 
trate deeply  in  imitation  of  a  gentle  rainfall.  But  even  so  good  a  friend 
as  the  garden  hose  may  be  taught  deceit.  Rush  into  the  garden  with 
it,  turn  on  full  pressure,  dance  about  with  a  squirt  here  and  there  and 
then  rush  back  into  the  house  to  dress  for  dinner  with  the  virtuous 
exclamation  that  you  have  "hosed  down"  the  garden — and  you  have 
done  as  little  for  the  yearning  plants  as  would  a  sprinkle  of  baptism 
for  a  man  perishing  of  thirst  in  the  desert. 

The  quantity  of  water  must  be  adequate  for  deep  penetration:  the 
method  must  be  that  which  carries  this  water  to  the  roots  with  the 
least  loss  by  evaporation,  and  the  least  puddling  of  the  soil  fol- 
lowing such  application.  Obviously  the  secret  of  garden  irrigation  is 
the  use  of  as  much  water  as  the  soil  can  hold  without  actual  saturation 
and  recourse  to  watering  at  as  long  intervals  as  is  possible  without  its 
drying  out.  The  daily  hosing  may  be  cleanly  and  refreshing  in  a  dusty 
locality,  and  worth  the  trouble  from  that  point  of  view,  but  it  is  not 
a  satisfactory  irrigation  to  secure  thrifty  growth  of  plants.  One  good 
soaking  a  week  or  a  fortnight,  according  to  the  hold  which  the  soil 
has  on  water  and  the  thirst  of  the  air  to  remove  it,  is  incomparably 
better  than  the  frivolous  flirting  of  the  hose  which  most  amateurs  are 
•apt  to  indulge  in. 

For  this  reason  the  ditch  along  the  bed  or  border  from  plant  to 
plant,  and  the  freshly  made  basin  around  isolated  trees  and  shrubs, 
with  a  small  stream  of  water  running  in  the  ditch,  and  the  basins  filled 
from  the  ditch  or  from  the  open  hose,  are  ways  of  garden  irrigation 
which  should  be  employed  as  widely  as  possible  except  for  the  lawn. 
The  true  method  for  the  lawn  is  to  allow  the  hose  or  revolving 
sprinkler  to  stand  in  one  place  until  the  ground  is  thoroughly  soft  and 
wet  to  a  foot  or  more  in  depth. 

But  there  are  other  things  to  do  in  June.  Keep  the  walks  scrupul- 
ously clean.  Remove  the  spent  bloom-shoots  of  all  plants  down  to  the 


104  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

offer  of  a  good  growth  bud  below.  Pinch  back  the  new  growth  of 
chrysanthemums,  so  as  to  get  a  very  stalwart  shoot  and  remove 
surplus  suckers  to  concentrate  growth  in  the  stalks  you  select  to 
survive.  Train  the  new  growth  of  all  vines  to  prevent  too  great 
freedom  and  ranginess  of  growth — and  then  sit  in  the  shade  for  long, 
quiet  hours  of  gladness  that  the  June  heat  of  California  has  nothing 
in  it  of  the  depression  which  is  born  of  the  mugginess  of  summer  in 
the  humid  climate  of  other  lands.  Layers  of  Wistaria,  root  readily 
in  June,  so  lay  down  some  while  you  are  resting. 

Chrysanthemum  cuttings  can  still  be  started  for  later  fall  blooming. 
Early  started  plants  should  be  freed  from  surplus  shoots.  Annuals  and 
perennials  can  be  started  from  seed  with  increasing  care  as  to  pro- 
tection of  seed  by  mulching  lightly.  Shady  places  can  be  chosen  for 
such  late  sowing  and  the  result  will  be  much  fall  and  winter  bloom 
of  good  plants  for  spring  blooming.  Dahlia  planting  should  continue 
for  later  bloom. 

JULY. 

The  chief  activities  of  July  in  the  California  garden  are  in  the  line 
of  maintenance.  To  continue  the  freshness  of  the  lawn  by  frequent 
cutting  and  ample  watering  and  thus  secure  verdure  around  the  habi- 
tation in  contrast  with  sere  fields  and  hillsides  beyond,  is  held  by  some 
as  too  exacting  both  of  work  and  water  and  by  others  as  generous  in 
its  compensation  for  both.  The  writer's  sympathy  is  with  the  latter 
view,  but  if  others  choose  the  former  let  them  see  to  it  that  the  dry 
garden  does  not  offend  the  sight  by  neglect  'and  untidiness.  Remove 
the  trash  of  early-blooming  annuals  and  bulbs  and  scrape  the  ground 
clean  of  all  perishing  grass  and  weeds.  Keep  the  ground  around  trees 
and  shrubs  well  loosened  and  all  intervening  spaces  well  swept,  so 
that  cleanliness,  which  is  next  to  grassiness,  may  prevail  in  the  July 
garden. 

But  July  work  has  other  motives  in  maintenance.  All  plants  chosen 
for  late  summer  and  fall  bloom  need  generous  help  in  July  or  they 
will  be  disappointing;  therefore,  cosmos  and  its  contemporaries  must 
not  be  neglected,  but  must  be  pushed  in  growth  and  well  supported 
to  escape  accident.  With  such  aid  they  may  be  allowed  to  become 
great  and  floriferous,  as  heat  and  moisture  favor,  and  a  sight  to  behold. 
The  same  will  be  true  of  the  chrysanthemums  if  they  are  well  fed 
and  watered  in  July  and  kept  from  distributing  their  strength  through 
too  many  stems  and  flower  buds.  There  is,  therefore,  much  to  do  in 
midsummer  in  the  California  garden  though  new  plantings  are  few. 

The  rose  garden  should  receive  careful  attention.  Bushes  which  are 
kept  in  constant  growth  by  proximity  to  lawns  or  in  regularly  watered 
borders  should  be  progressively  pruned,  cutting  back  shoots  which 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  105 

have  bloomed,  to  good  new  laterals  below  that  they  may  be  pushed  to 
greater  development  and  an  excess  of  shoots  should  be  reduced — 
saving  always  the  best  of  them.  Roses  too  often  become  brushy  and 
unthrifty  from  neglect  of  summer  treatment.  But  the  best  rose 
garden  is  one  which  is  not  pushed  into  constant  activity.  Bushes 
which  have  done  well  in  the  spring  and  matured  their  new  wood  by 
midsummer  are  entitled  to  a  rest  and  though  we  cannot  know  whether 
they  actually  feel  fatigue  or  not,  we  do  know  that  to  get  the  best  fall 
bloom,  the  bushes  should  be  credited  with  weariness  and  allowed  to 
rest  in  July.  For  this  reason  it  is  best  that  the  soil  should  be  allowed 
to  dry  somewhat  and,  as  the  leaves  show  the  maturing  phases,  the 
bushes  should  be  pruned,  shortening  the  shoots  and  reducing  them 
greatly  in  number,  so  that  the  reawakening  activity  of  autumn  may 
find  fewer  outlets  for  its  impulses.  This  summer  pruning  of  roses, 
when  grown  away  from  plants  which  must  be  kept  active,  adds  greatly 
to  the  summer  aspect  of  the  garden,  because  the  rose  section  is  clean 
and  orderly  though  at  rest,  while  a  sleepy  rose  bush  amid  riotous 
summer  growing  plants  offends  the  eye.  Beyond  this,  however,  is  the 
greater  reason  for  the  treatment  and  that  is  the  anticipation  of  late 
fall  bloom.  Many  roses  are  better  in  the  autumn  than  in  the  spring 
and  nearly  all  respond  gloriously  to  the  call  of  moisture  after  a  mid- 
summer dormancy  and  in  the  delightful  November  days  bring  a 
grandeur  to  the  California  garden  which,  in  the  nature  of  things, 
those  who  live  in  wintry  climates  cannot  know. 

Though  July  is  chiefly  a  maintenance  month,  it  should  be  used  also 
for  starting  plants  from  seed  for  next  winter  and  spring  blooming. 
The  covered  cold  frame  or  lath  sheltered  or  well  white-washed  green- 
house can  be  used  to  good  advantage  and  hosts  of  plants  grown  for 
fall  planting  out. 

Freesias  are  restless  bulbs  and  should  be  given  a  July  planting  for 
their  earliest  blooming. 

AUGUST. 

August  is  the  time  to  prepare  for  the  second  California  springtime 
which  the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season  ushers  in.  The  character  of 
the  preparation  depends  upon  the  location  and  also  upon  the  moisture 
available.  The  irrigated  garden  has  possibilities  far  beyond  those  of 
the  rainfall  garden;  therefore,  if  you  have  water,  clear  away  the  debris 
of  the  summer  crop,  soak  the  soil  deeply  and.  as  soon  as  the  soil 
works  well,  fork  it  over  thoroughly,  fine  the  surface  and  sow  all  kinds 
of  annual  flowers  which  you  desire.  Many  tender  things  can  also  be 
sown  in  August  if  you  have  -a  location  free  enough  from  fall  frosts  to 
allow  them  time  to  mature.  In  the  hottest  interior  situations,  however, 
August  sowing  does  not  succeed  so  well  as  near  the  coast  because  some 
seedlings  cannot  endure  the  dry  heat  even  if  soil  moisture  be  adequate. 


106  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

On  a  small  scale  a  lath  or  cloth  shade  may  protect  them  without  too 
great  outlay.  It  is  interesting  to  try  many  other  things  with  an  August 
start  on  irrigated  land,  and  a  beginner  will  often  be  surprised  and  de- 
lighted over  his  achievements  if  he  dares  to  defy  the  warning  of  the 
wiseacres  who  tell  him  he  must  wait  for  the  fall  rains. 

Even  for  the  rainfall  garden  there  is  much  which  can  be  begun  in 
August.  Of  course,  actual  work  in  the  open  must  be  deferred  until  the 
soil  is  deeply  moistened  by  the  rain,  but  a  corner  of  the  garden, 
partially  shaded  from  the  sun,  can  be  moistened  from  the  well  or  house 
pipes  and  made  into  a  seed  bed,  in  which  hosts  of  things  can  be  grown 
closely  together  to  be  ready  for  transplanting  to  the  open  when  the 
rain  comes  and  one  can  get  a  start  in  this  way  which  will  compare  well 
with  the  advantage  of  winter  growth  of  seedlings  for  spring  trans- 
planting. Let  the  beginner  remember  that  California  has  two  spring- 
time changes:  one  from  cold  to  warmth  and  the  other  from  drought 
to  moisture,  with  continuation  of  the  same  warmth,  and  he  can  get  a 
better  idea  of  the  capabilities  of  the  California  garden  and  work  better 
to  realize  them. 

August  has  also  very  important  relations  to  the  autumn  bloom  of 
shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants  which  flower  through  a  long  period. 
The  chrysanthemums  must,  of  course,  be  encouraged  with  water  and 
other  liquid  refreshments  which  are  to  their  tastes.  Dis-budding  of  the 
selected  shoots  must  not  be  neglected  and  to  guard  against  both 
sunburn  and  dust  prepare  to  stretch  a  cloth  canopy  over  the  plants 
which  are  grown  for  single  blooms. 

Open  the  trenches  along  the  rows  of  rose  bushes  which  were  put  to 
sleep  last  month  and  thoroughly  soak  the  ground,  replacing  the  earth 
and  hoeing  the  surface  well  as  the  water  disappears.  This  moisture,  with 
the  ample  heat,  will  soon  awaken  the  roses  and  they  will  stretch  out 
long  arms  of  new  growth  to  bathe  in  the  sunshine  which  is  more  and 
more  delicious  as  its  July  fervor  lessens.  Generous  August  treatment 
is  the  price  of  gorgeous  Thanksgiving  roses. 

One  more  August  opportunity  looks  beyond  the  fall  bloom. 
Biennials  and  perennials  which  bloom  the  second  year  in  wintry 
climates  count  a  year  in  California  as  good  as  two  years  elsewhere,  provid- 
ing they  are  started  so  that  they  can  grow  in  the  latter  half  of  one  year 
and  bloom  in  the  first  half  of  the  next.  The  list  is  too  long  to  even 
name  the  plants  which  thus  declare  their  joy  in  coming  to  California. 

In  addition  to  these  common  hardy  perennials,  August  is  the  month 
to  start  plants  of  many  favorites  of  the  greenhouse,  to  be  shifted,  as 
they  advance,  into  pots  for  winter  house-bloom,  or  possibly  to  be 
grown  in  the  open  air  in  certain  protected  places  and  thus  convince  the 
visitor  as  he  looks  upon  them  beneath  the  palms,  araucarias,  cycads, 
lantanas,  etc.,  that  the  California  garden  is  really  a  conservatory  out 
of  doors. 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  107 

Freesia  planting  may  be  continued  and  a  beginning  should  be  made 
with  other  bulbs  of  fall  and  winter  bloom.  Wet  and  dig  the  soil  deeply 
and  keep  reasonably  moist  until  the  rains  do  it  for  you. 

Amaryllids  are  ready  to  be  helped  into  bloom  with  a  little  water  to 
be  increased  as  the  flower  stems  break  through. 

Asters  need  water  and  liquid  manure  to  show  grand  flowers,  but 
when  these  appear,  water  the  roots  only  to  get  perfect  flowers. 

Pansy  seed  should  be  sown  under  cover  for  several  shifts  before 
planting  out. 

Chrysanthemums  must  be  protected  from  leaf  lice  with  tobacco  tea 
or  tobacco  dust  thrown  into  the  leaf  clusters  where  they  usually  first 
appear.  The  plants  also  need  staking  if  they  are  to  be  grown  for  single, 
heavy  blooms. 

Cineraria  seeds  should  be  sown  for  winter  blooming.  Although  they 
require  the  most  careful  treatment  described  for  fine  seed  in  the 
chapters  on  propagation,  the  plants  volunteer  freely  when  self  sown  on 
the  garden  surface  by  the  old  plants.  The  cineraria  in  bloom  in  Cali- 
fornia winter  gives  the  tourist  his  keenest  appreciation  of  our  ''green- 
house in  the  open  air." 

Chinese  primrose  seedlings  should  be  started  for  winter  house- 
blooms. 

SEPTEMBER. 

And  now  comes  the  second  springtime  in  the  California  year  which 
has  been  anticipated  in  previous  monthly  comments,  and,  wonderful  to 
relate,  the  vernal  September  exerts  opposite  influences  in  the  two  chief 
natural  divisions  of  California.  These  chief  divisions  are  not  north 
and  south,  for  latitude  has  little  to  do  with  climate  in  California:  they 
are  coast  and  interior  valley  and  topography  is  the  divisor.  The  in- 
terior valley  regions,  which  extend  disconnectedly  from  Imperial  to 
the  head  of  the  Sacramento  valley  through  about  five  hundred  miles  of 
distance,  become  cooler  as  the  shortening  days,  less  direct  rays,  and 
fleeting  cloud-veils  reduce  solar  fervor. 

The  coast  regions,  through  a  similar  distance,  become  warmer  as  the 
westerly  winds  of  midsummer  cease  to  spread  ocean  temperatures  and 
fogs  over  the  coast  slopes  and  valleys  which  lie  in  clear  sunshine  west- 
ward of,  and  among  the  ridges  of  the  Coast  range.  Thus  the  Septem- 
ber springtime  cools  one  great  district  and  warms  another,  and  brings 
both  into  better  condition  for  growth  of  plants  which  will  quickly 
attain  usefulness  or  beauty  before  the  winter  frosts,  or  are  by  their 
nature  so  little  affected  by  them  that  they  can  mature  in  the  following 
winter  or  later.  And  it  is  not  only  the  September  heat  which  has  a 
vernal  character:  the  early  rains  often  bring  a  delicious  moisture  to  the 
air,  which  delights  the  garden  and  the  gardener. 


108  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Let  September,  therefore,  be  a  month  of  great  activity  in  California 
gardens,  except  at  altitudes  where  wintry  conditions  prevail,  and  where 
autumn  is  -a  time  of  ending  rather  than  of  beginning.  In  places  where 
early  rains  are  very  light,  clear  up  and  burn  the  rubbish  which  will  not 
easily  decay,  spread  the  scrapings  of  the  cowyard  and  poultry-yard, 
start  the  whirling  sprinkler,  or  adjust  the  hose  nozzle,  and  allow  an 
•artificial  rain  to  fall  for  an  hour  or  two  until  the  ground  is  soaked 
deeply,  or  produce  the  same  effect  by  flood  or  furrow  with  water  from 
the  irrigation  ditch.  Soon  after,  fork  in  deeply  the  fertilizing  cover, 
break  the  clods,  even  the  surface  but  do  not  rake  finely,  except  where 
the  sowing  of  small  seeds  requires  it.  Leave  the  surface,  rather,  like 
a  carpet  of  walnuts,  so  that  rain  can  fall  without  crusting  the  earth. 
The  purpose  of  work  in  the  September  springtime  is  to  open  the  soil 
to  receive  the  rains:  the  purpose  of  the  March  springtime  is  to  close 
the  soil  against  evaporation. 

In  ordinary  coast  and  valley  situations  sow  in  September,  upon  soil 
moistened  either  as  described  by  irrigation  or  by  early  rains,  seeds  of 
all  flowers  which  you  delight  in,  except  the  very  tender  ones. 

Hardy  flowers  will  do  as  well  for  late  fall  and  winter  bloom  and 
will  make  the  California  garden  gay  all  through  the  darker  months. 
Such  slowly  developing  plants  as  pansies  and  sweet  peas,  and  a  host 
like  them,  too  many  to  mention,  are  really  not  at  their  best  unless  they 
get  an  early  autumn  start.  They  need  time  for  deep  rooting  and  strong 
stem  and  foliage  development,  and  the  autumn  springtime  is  the  time 
to  begin  with  them.  It  is  also  the  season  for  planting  winter  and 
spring  flowering  bulbs — the  glorious  narcissus  family,  hyacinths,  tulips, 
in  fact,  the  whole  bunch  which  is  called  "Dutch"  and  many  others. 

Do  not  get  slack  in  maintenance  work.  Forget  the  eastern  feeling 
that  the  year  is  closing,  and  do  not  acquire  the  old  California  feeling 
that  the  rains  that  are  coming  are  to  be  listlessly  awaited.  Do  not  stop 
sprinkling  the  lawn  because  it  happens  to  be  a  calendar  month  for 
rains.  Keep  ahead  of  the  rains:  keep  getting  ready  for  the  rains,  but 
never  wait  for  them.  The  California  autumn  in  a  well-kept  garden 
is  a  continuous  Indian  summer,  with  all  the  colors  of  eastern  summer 
added  to  the  brown  and  gold  of  eastern  autumn. 

Bloom  buds  should  be  selected  on  chrysanthemums  and  all  others 
pinched  off — if  you  are  working  for  large  singles.  If  not  it  is  desirable  to 
remove  a  good  part  of  the  buds.  The  plants  now  need  generous  treatment 
including  liquid  manure  and  some  sort  of  a  sun  and  dust  shade  is  necessary 
for  finest  blooms.  Keep  pushing  the  chrysanthemums.  Mulch  with  good 
manure  and  water,  or  let  the  rain  fall,  upon  it.  Be  generous  with  all  holi- 
day-blooming plants.  They  should  not  be  allowed  to  feel  the  pinch  of 
drouth. 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  109 

Water  the  roses  freely  if  the  rains  are  not  ample :  it  is  the  price  of  rich 
fall  and  early  winter  bloom.  If  the  roses  were  not  pruned  last  month,  do 
it  now. 

All  old  stems  of  summer  blooming  plants  should  be  removed  and  the 
new  growth  from  the  root  given  a  clear  start.  The  wreck  of  annuals,  from 
which  nothing  more  is  expected,  should  also  be  cleared  away — if  it  has  not 
been  done,  as  each  plant  passed  its  zenith,  which  is  the  better  way. 

It  is  seasonable  to  plant  tree  seeds  where  moisture  is  assured  and 
temperature  promises  to  be  favorable. 

If  the  situation  is  warm  plant  anemonies,  ranunculus  and  gladiolus  of 
the  small-blooming  class  which  flower  early.  Watsonias  should  also  be 
planted  in  favorable  places. 

Annuals  and  perennials  previously  started  in  boxes  should  be  planted 
in  open  ground  if  the  soil  is  moist  and  warm. 

Subdivide  irises  and  replant  for  better  bloom  than  that  of  old  clumps. 

OCTOBER. 

October  is  a  continuation  of  the  autumn  planting  season  and  is  much 
like  September,  except  that  light  and  heat  are  slightly  less  and  light  frosts 
are  nearer.  Consequently,  in  places  where  fall  frosts  are  expected  the 
interval  may  be  too  short  for  tender  plants  to  advance  from  seed  to 
service.  But  plants  which  must  be  rated  as  tender  are  few  in  California 
and  with  these  in  strictly  frostless  situations,  and  with  all  the  multitude  of 
others  in  places  of  medium  elevation,  the  month,  which  is  counted  late  in 
the  fall  at  the  east,  is  early  in  the  growing  season  in  California.  In  fact, 
generally  in  the  valeys  and  on  the  mesas,  October  is  one  of  the  best  plant- 
ing months  of  the  year,  although  many  are  too  slow  to  realize  it  and  fail 
of  the  best  results  with  sweet  peas,  pansies  and  many  other  flowers  because 
they  try  to  follow  eastern  seed  catalogues  and  eastern  garden  literature. 
California  is  different  from  the  rest  of  the  country  and  October  work  in 
the  garden  affords  one  of  the  most  striking  demonstrations  of  this  fact. 

The  early  rains  have  fallen.  The  soil,  even  of  the  most  neglected 
garden,  is  mellow  and  fragrant  and  full  of  the  microbes  -of  the  garden 
fever  which  entered  the  blood  of  mankind  when  Adam  first  poked  a 
sharp  stick  into  the  leaf  mold  of  Eden.  Neither  immunity  nor  at- 
tenuation has  resulted  from  thousands  of  generations  of  inoculation; 
on  the  contrary  susceptibility  iand  virulence  heighten  with  advance  of 
civilization  and  are  now  relieved  only  by  deep  thrusts  of  gleaming 
steel,  while  pothering  with  a  stick  satisfied  Adam.  The  more  delicious 
the  weather,  the  more  friable  the  earth,  the  more  winning  the  call  to 
growth  which  appeals  to  all  human  senses,  the  higher  runs  the  garden- 
ing fervor.  In  this  respect  October  is  the  eastern  May  and  in  some 
seasons  even  deciduous  fruit  trees  are  deceived  by  it  and  burst  into 
bloomi  Could  there  be  clearer  declaration  of  vernal  conditions  in  the 
California  autumn? 


110  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Those  who  have  waited  for  the  rains  may  now  enter  quickly  upon 
the  operations  presented  a  month  ago  for  the  irrigated  garden.  It  is 
the  best  time  of  the  year  for  soil  enrichment  with  the  ordinary 
materials,  because  the  ample  moisture  will  induce  their  speedy  decay 
and  assimilation.  Make  generous  application  in  October  so  that  the 
rains  may  carry  the  soluble  richness  down  to  the  roots  and  leave  the 
coarser  parts  to  make  mellower  the  surface  soil  which  may  be  worn 
and  wearied  by  tillage. 

Begin  in  October  the  pruning  of  deciduous  shrubs  and  trees.  In 
gardens  they  need  constant  training  and  trimming  to  preserve  shape 
and  increase  vigor  and  to  enable  them  to  answer  the  requirements  of 
the  artificial  life  you  must  teach  them,  to  attain  your  purposes.  You 
need  not  wait  until  the  leaves  fall;  when  they  become  limp  and  lose 
their  natural  pose  their  work  is  practically  done  for  the  season.  You 
can  finish  the  pruning  and  clear  up  the  debris  from  the  firm  ground 
before  the  fall  spading  and  escape  compacting  the  loose  earth  by 
tramping  over  it  to  do  winter  pruning. 

Continue  planting  bulbs  for  winter  and  spring  blooming.  Dig  up 
and  replant  singly  such  bulbs  when  they  have  become  massed  in  too 
large  clumps,  else  they  will  pinch  each  other  into  inferiority.  Fertilize 
the  borders  where  the  rains  will  awaken  the  violets  to  new  growth 
and  keep  the  fall-blooming  roses  and  chrysanthemums  well  fed  and 
watered,  so  that  your  garden  will  be  glorious  at  Thanksgiving.  Keep 
the  lawns  and  walks  clean  of  falling  leaves,  but  do  not  burn  anything 
which  can  be  dug  into  the  soils  of  the  borders.  Leaf  mold  is  naturally 
scant  in  California,  therefore,  husband  carefully  the  contributions 
which  the  plants  make  for  their  future  thrift.  Keep  the  old  lawns 
well  clipped  and  start  new  ones.  Be  active  in  garden  effort;  a  little 
over-exertion  is  never  so  safe  as  during  delicious  October  days,  which 
have  neither  chill  nor  burning. 

Scatter  seeds  of  California  poppy  and  the  whole  range  of  native 
wild  flowers.  The  rains  will  start  them.  It  is  nature's  way. 

Continue  dis-budding  and  care  and  watering  of  chrysanthemums  if 
rains  are  slack — not  forgetting  cloth  shelters  from  too  hot  sun  and  too 
free  dust  if  rains  are  late.  Fall  fogs  will  dust  bedraggle  the  blooms. 

It  is  still  time  to  prune  roses  which  have  been  allowed  to  carry  their 
summer  growth  of  brush  so  late. 

Continue  sowing  sweet  peas,  deeply  in  light  soil,  and  finish  sowing 
of  stocks,  pansies,  etc.,  for  late  winter  blooming.  Marigolds  will  also 
give  you  warm  winter  color-masses. 

Japanese  iris  should  be  planted  and  penstemons  will  give  late  fall 
and  winter  bloom. 

Plant  out  seedlings  of  annuals  and  perennials  still  standing  in  seed 
beds  or  boxes.  Pansies,  stocks  and  the  whole  throng  of  their  associ- 
ates will  bloom  for  the  holidays  if  now  set  in  places  of  warm  autumn 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  111 

sunshine.  It  is  also  time  to  plant  seeds  for  succession — so  long  is  our 
fall-growing  season.  For  those  who  prefer  sowing  in  open  ground 
without  transplanting,  the  season  is  also  right  in  coast  or  valley 
districts. 

Give  the  lawn  a  good  cover  of  well-rotted  and  finely-broken  manure 
— if  not  already  attended  to. 

Cineraria  seedlings  should  be  set  in  shaded  places,  also  for  winter 
and  spring  glory  of  long  duration.  Delphiniums,  if  they  are  dormant 
and  not  indulging  in  fall  bloom,  can  be  re-set  if  more  plants  are  desired. 

NOVEMBER. 

If  the  suggestions  for  the  last  few  months  have  been  heeded,  the 
Thanksgiving  month  will  find  the  California  garden  gay  with  colors 
and  rich  in  foliage  forms,  and  the  Thanksgiving  table  decorations  may 
be  blossoms  fresh  from  the  open  air,  commingling  their  fragrance  with 
the  incense  of  the  eucalyptus  fagots  which  blaze  brightly  on  the 
hearth.  Many  think  Thanksgiving  reunions  lack  an  important  element 
unless  fire  burns  as  a  token  of  the  warmth  of  family  affection.  In 
California  another  token  is  added — the  beauty  of  the  flowers  manifest- 
ing the  warmth  of  the  mid-day  sun  and  declaring  the  thankful  spirit, 
both  in  man  'and  his  environment. 

Autumn  roses  and  chrysanthemums  are  in  their  fullest  glory — it 
is  their  harvest  time.  It  is  the  grower's  delight  to  admire  them;  it  is 
his  duty  to  judge  them  discriminatingly.  Those  roses  which  are  best 
in  the  lessened  heat  of  autumn  should  be  noted,  and  the  thriftiest 
bushes  marked  as  a  source  of  cuttings  to  be  taken  later.  Roses  should 
be  thus  judged  at  least  twice  in  the  year.  Chrysanthemums  are  judged 
once  for  all,  but  be  sure  to  drive  a  stake,  which  cannot  be  displaced  by 
spading,  beside  the  plants  which  it  is  desired  to  remember  when  spring 
growth  is  taken  for  cuttings.  The  same  exhortation,  to  mark  the  best 
and  not  trust  to  memory,  is  made  for  all  the  splendid  bloomers;  the 
carnations,  cannas,  dahlias,  pelargoniums,  geraniums  and  many  others 
which  contribute  to  the  glory  of  the  November  garden.  Except  where 
spading,  fertilizing  and  lawn-making  have  been  delayed  to  await  the 
rains,  November  garden  activity  largely  consists  of  enjoying,  planning 
and  resolving  for  the  future.  It  is  rather  too  late  for  fall  sowing  where 
frosts  and  heavy  rains  are  to  be  expected,  although  there  are  many 
thermal  situations  where  even  the  shortest  days  bring  conditions  favor- 
ing deep  rooting  of  seedlings  or  bulbs  for  mid-winter  and  spring 
maturity. 

November  is  the  beginning  of  the  transplanting  season  for  decidu- 
ous trees  and  shrubs,  and,  when  the  ground  is  deeply  moistened  by 
rain  or  irrigation,  this  early  transplanting  is  particularly  desirable  in 
the  drier  and  warmer  parts  of  the  state.  The  transplanted  tree  soon 


112  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

begins  to  establish  itself  with  new  rootlets,  if  the  ground  is  warm  and 
moist,  and  is,  therefore,  better  fitted  to  sustain  the  leaves  which  sun- 
shine on  twig  and  branch  calls  forth.  But  November  is  only  the 
beginning  of  the  planting  season,  and  in  some  localities  later  work  is 
more  desirable. 

November  is  a  month  for  great  activity  in  bulb  planting  which 
has  been  delayed,  also  for  open-ground  sowing  of  the  multitude  of 
native  and  introduced  plants  which  make  winter  growth  and  early 
spring  bloom.  It  is  also  timely  to  set  out  bedding  plants,  brought 
along  in  pots  or  boxes  from  earlier  sowings.  They  will  bloom  even 
into  midsummer. 

Sweet  peas  now  planted  will  continue  late  winter  bloom  into 
spring  time. 

Freesias,  held  back  from  early  planting,  will  now  go  forward  into  a 
good  later  blooming  season.  Watsonias  also  will  do  well  if  not  longer 
delayed.  It  is  also  still  time  to  plant  irises. 

Dahlias,  gladioli  and  cannas  should  now  be  taken  up  and  stored 
in  a  dry,  cool  place  for  planting  out  after  the  cold  rains  are  passed: 
although  they  will  survive  being  left  in  place,  better  flowers  come  from 
keeping  them  out  of  long  dormancy  in  cold,  wet  ground. 

DECEMBER. 

Shorter  days  and  lower  temperatures  bring  the  California  garden  to 
its  nearest  approach  to  wintry  conditions  during  December;  but 
autumn  flowers  still  bloom,  fresh  grass  grows  and  trees  put  forth  new 
leaves  in  many  parts  of  the  state.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  the 
same  kind  of  flowers  amid  Easter,  Thanksgiving  and  Christmas  decora- 
tions. 

And  yet  there  is  work  to  do  in  December  which  is,  to  a  degree  at 
least,  distinctive.  Deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  are  nearest  to  dormancy 
and,  therefore,  in  good  condition  for  pruning  and  for  propagation  by 
hard  wood  cuttings.  Roses,  which  were  encouraged  to  autumn  bloom 
by  the  treatment  prescribed  last  July  and  August,  are  now  entering 
upon  their  longer  rest,  and  may  be  thoroughly  handled  for  shape 
and  for  the  growth  of  new  wood.  Thrust  sharp  shears,  then,  into  the 
brushy  bushes  and  cut  out,  close  to  the  roots,  old  wood  which  has  done 
its  work  and  save  enough  of  the  younger  stems  to  renew  bush-form, 
selecting  both  for  strength  and  position,  so  that  new  shoots,  soon  to 
come,  shall  have  space  to  develop  and  contribute  to  symmetry.  To 
the  skillful  pruner  a  well-rpuned  bush  has  a  peculiar  beauty,  because 
it  suggests  future  shapeliness  and  vigor,  while  to  the  uninitiated  it  may 
be  but  an  ugly  bunch  of  prongs  and  stubs.  Try  to  realize  this  and  you 
will  find  a  deeper  significance  in  pruning  and  learn  how  to  do  it 
rationally.  Standard  shrubs  and  fruit  trees  are,  in  a  way,  treated 


THE  GARDEN  CALENDAR  113 

differently  from  those  in  bushform,  but  the  principles  of  preserving 
symmetry,  renewing  wood  for  vigor  and  spacing  for  opportunity  are 
still  to  be  applied.  The  bright  December  days,  sharp  tools  and  keen 
interest  make  pruning  study  and  practice  particularly  delightful. 

Cuttings  of  roses  and  other  hard  wood  which  roots  readily,  can  be 
taken  in  any  quantity  from  the  prunings.  Well-matured  shoots  of 
medium  size,  straight  and  clean,  in  six  to  eight-inch  lengths  (rejecting 
the  softer  wood  of  the  tips)  make  quick  rooting  if  buried  two-thirds 
of  their  length  in  moist,  well-drained  loam.  Cuttings  of  hardy,  soft 
growth,  like  geraniums  or  pansies,  also  find  adequate  heat  in  December, 
although  the  tenderer  herbaceous  plants  will  do  better  later.  Trans- 
planting of  deciduous  trees,  shrubs,  vines,  etc.,  is  also  timely  and 
orders  to  nurserymen  should  not  be  delayed.  All  this  can  be  done 
later,  it  is  true,  because  California  has  nearly  half  the  year  for  plant- 
ing deciduous  growths,  but  you  can  often  get  better  plants  by  early 
orders  and  better  results  by  early  planting. 

Continue  planting  seeds  of  hardy  flowers;  though  top  growth  may  be 
slow  the  roots  will  establish  themselves.  If  your  land  lies  low  and  is 
liable  to  fill  with  water,  dig  or  plow  up  ridges  and  plant  upon  their 
crests.  Keep  thinking  and  inventing  to  secure  slight  shelter,  to  avoid 
excess  of  water  and  to  corner  the  slanting  sun  rays  and  you  will 
surprise  yourself  with  your  December  achievements. 

The  December  garden  need  not  be  bare,  though  it  too  often  is,  even 
in  California.  Violets,  started  into  new  life  by  September  rain  or  ir- 
rigation, will  fill  the  air  with  fragrance.  Hardy  bulbs,  like  narcissus 
and  others,  freely  open  their  cups  and  tubes  to  catch  the  raindrops. 
The  geraniums  are  gorgeous.  Roses  and  chrysanthemums  still  linger — 
in  fact,  an  innumerable  host  of  blooms  may  cover  the  garden,  if  the 
planter  plans  for  them.  The  brilliant  red  of  the  toyon,  or  California 
holly  berries,  in  their  evergreen  setting,  will  always  be  our  formal 
Christmas  decorations,  but  the  California  home  garden  will  fill  the 
vases  or  shower  the  damask  of  the  Christmas  dinner  table  with  many 
hues  and  forms  of  beauty,  without  recourse  to  the  conservatory,  if 
one  but  gardens  wisely  and  devotedly. 

It  is  still  possible  to  catch  up  with  fall-bulb  planting  and  may  even 
be  desirable  to  plant  late  if  moisture  has  been  delayed,  for  these  bulbs 
delight  in  moist  air  and  soil,  which,  fortunately,  are  normally  earlier 
in  beginning.  Still  one  will  get  gladness  from  late  planted  bulbs  for 
our  usual  frosts  do  not  vex  their  growth. 

Seed  planting  of  herbaceous  annuals  and  perennials  may  also  con- 
tinue, if  there  is  not  too  much  cold  water  in  the  soil. 

Preparation  is  timely  for  planting  out  dormant  roots  of  perennials 
or  growing  plants  thereof,  in  the  warmer  parts  of  the  state.  Good, 
deep  spading  or  forking  of  spaces  for  such  planting  should  be  done 
and  well  rotted  manure  freely  mixed  in  during  working  the  soil. 


114  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

If  ample  rains  have  come,  the  spent  fertilizer  should  be  raked  from 
the  lawn  and  regular  cutting  resumed.  There  is  great  temptation  to 
neglect  this  and  to  cause  the  lawn  to  show  a  crazy  quilt  of  greens  and 
yellows  after  a  cutting  which  has  been  delayed  too  long.  This  is  un- 
necessary in  places  where  there  is  no  hard  or  prolonged  freezing,  as 
will  be  explained  in  the  chapter  on  lawn  making. 


PART  IV:    CALIFORNIA'S  WAYS  WITH  GARDEN 

PLANTS. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

LAWNS  AND  GROUND  COVERS. 

The  "open  spaces,"  stipulated  for  in  Chapter  V,  should,  if  possible, 
be  covered  with  flat  verdure.  They  should  be  lawns,  for  which  we 
accept  the  common  definition,  "pieces  of  grass  or  clover  kept  closely 
mown"  or  the  semblance  of  a  lawn  produced  by  other  plants  which  for 
distinction,  will  be  designated  in  this  connection  as  "ground-covers." 
Of  course  there  may  be  reasons  in  individual  instances  why  neither  of 
these  can  be  undertaken  or  must  be  deferred  and  then  the  owner  must 
be  content  with  a  winter-lawn  of  native  plants  and,  in  parts  of  the 
state  with  generous  rainfall,  they  will  give  verdure  for  a  third  or 
even  half  the  year  and  rich  yellow  and  brown  hues  during  the  remain- 
ing fraction  of  it.  Many  people  honestly  prefer  this  reproduction  of 
the  natural  California  landscape  and  it  must  be  conceded  to  be  com- 
mendable, but  the  proper  enjoyment  of  it  implies  certain  duties  which 
are  apt  to  be  overlooked. 

Winter  Lawns  of  Native  Plants. — If  one  feels  the  impulse  to  be 
content  with  rainfall-verdure  on  the  ground  of  its  natural  beauty  and 
accepts  the  summer  yellows  and  browns  as  a  very  desirable  substitute 
for  the  bleak  whiteness  of  a  snow-cover  which  must  be  endured  in 
wintry  climates,  he  should  plan  open  spaces  for  it  just  as  carefully  as 
he  would  if  he  intended  to  secure  lawns  of  perpetual  verdure.  He 
should  arrange  trees  and  shrubs  in  the  same  way  for  open  spaces, 
vistas,  tree  and  shrub  clumps,  etc.  He  should  not  try  to  cover  the 
ground  with  a  crowding  of  trees  and  shrubs  in  the  vain  attempt  to 
convince  the  visitor  that  he  likes  them  so  well  that  he  cannot  bear  to 
see  the  bare  ground!  It  is  too  thin  a  subterfuge  and  the  visitor  will 
pity  him  for  throwing  his  house  into  a  thicket,  because  he  dare  not  face 
the  open  spaces. 

If  then  you  really  prefer  the  natural  colors  of  the  California  land- 
scape in  your  garden,  demonstrate  the  fact  by  laying  off  the  ground 
to  really  get  the  advantages  of  them.  Afterwards  treat  these  spaces 
in  a  true  garden-like  way  by  giving  the  ground  a  good  even  surface, 
flat  or  sloping  as  the  land  may  be.  Then  add  to  its  resources  by 
scattering  seed  of  the  annuals  which  contribute  to  the  richness  of  both 
winter  verdure  and  summer  browns,  such  as  burr  clover,  alfileria,  etc., 
and  go  over  it  occasionally  with  a  hoe  and  cut  out  the  tall,  rank  weeds 
before  they  have  a  chance  to  ripen  seed.  It  will  also  prolong  the 
verdure  and  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  areas,  if  the  growth  is  cut  oc- 


116  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

casionally  with  scythe  or  mower  during  the  growing  season:  or  it  may 
be  pastured  lightly  when  the  ground  is  firm,  by  roping  old  Brindle  or 
Dobbin  on  it.  The  effect  will  also  be  heightened  both  summer  and 
winter  by  an  occasional  manuring.  When  the  growth  has  matured 
and  you  have  sufficiently  enjoyed  the  aspen-like  effect  of  the  quivering 
seed  stems  and  all  that,  run  a  roller  over  it  to  crush  down  the  dry 
growth  or  go  over  it  with  a  mower,  if  you  prefer,  and  gather  up  the 
dry  stuff  with  a  horse  rake.  This  will  rattle  out  the  ripe  seed  and 
gather  up  enough  of  the  coarse  stuff  to  preclude  danger  of  summer 
fires.  Then  you  can  enjoy  the  yellows  and  browns  of  your  trim  sum- 
mer lawn  and  be  sure  your  trap  is  duly  set  for  a  good  display  of  autumn 
verdure,  if  the  rains  are  early,  and  of  winter  verdure,  if  they  are 
delayed.  If  one  will  do  these  things  he  is  justified  in  the  claim  that  he 
prefers  the  natural  summer  hues:  if  he  does  not  do  them,  he  is  not 
gardening  at  all,  but  shirking  the  work  which  is  essential  to  the  full 
enjoyment  of  what  'he  claims  to  admire.  Meantime  he  must  keep 
wide  cultivated  borders  between  his  unstirred,  unwatered  spaces  and 
his  trees  and  shrubs  or  they  will  not  hold  the  verdure  which  is  needed 
for  the  contrast  between  greens  and  browns,  which  is  usually  a  part 
of  the  philosophy  of  our  advocates  of  natural  lawns  and  their 
environment. 

The  Superiority  of  Verdure. — There  is  however  in  the  mind  of  the 
writer  no  question  of  the  superiority  of  perpetual  verdure  on  the  open 
spaces  of  the  garden.  He  can  get  all  the  browns  and  yellows  he  needs 
either  from  the  wallflowers  and  other  cultivated  bloom,  or  he  can  find 
it  covering  the  vast  expanses  of  wild  pastures  or  of  grain  fields  which 
are  not  wholly  banished  from  the  surroundings  of  even  our  most  highly 
developed  horticultural  districts.  Therefore  his  exhortation  must  be 
to  provide  a  lawn,  or  the  semblance  thereof,  for  the  open  spaces  im- 
mediately enclosing  the  home — no  matter  what  the  adjacent  fields 
may  carry  as  commercial  crops. 

And  the  writer  will  proceed  further,  even  to  this  horrible  horti- 
cultural heterodoxy — that  a  rather  poor  lawn  is  better  than  none.  He 
has  never  had  what,  by  professional  standards,  could  be  called  a  good 
lawn.  His  lawns  have  always  been  of  the  character  which  requires 
observation  from  the  west  at  sunrise  and  from  the  east  at  sunset.  They 
never  could  endure  being  looked  at  from  above.  And  yet  they  have 
always  been  beautiful  in  perspective  and  have  afforded  a  carpet  of 
verdure  able  to  carry  the  eye  from  point  to  point,  among  the  higher 
growths  around  the  open  spaces,  quite  acceptably.  But  a  lawn  must, 
of  course,  not  be  unreasonably  bad.  Good  gardening  could  have 
nothing  to  do  with  such  a  one  but  good  gardening  can  make  a  reason- 
ably bad  one  respectable.  Considerably  less  than  the  ideal  amount 
of  water  and  fertilizer  will  keep  the  grass  green  even  if  it  is  not  able 


PREPARATION  OF  SOIL  FOR  LAWN  117 

to  thicken  into  a  very  good  turf,  but  it  must  not  be  stinted  in  work. 
Close,  even  cutting  with  a  sharp  mower,  good  raking,  when  desirable, 
neat  trimming  of  edges  and  weed-cutting  or  pulling,  as  may  be  required 
and  general  cleanliness  of  the  grass-spaces — these  must  not  be 
neglected. 

And  then  if  one  really  dare  not  undertake  a  lawn  for  any  reason 
of  trouble  or  expense,  he  may  still  get  continual  verdure  on  his  open 
spaces  by  recourse  to  the  ground-covering  plants  which  will  be 
mentioned  later  in  this  chapter. 

HINTS  ON  LAWN  MAKING. 

A  plot  of  land  for  grass  should  be  first  graded  sufficiently  to  re- 
move small  hummocks  and  to  fill  small  hollows  in  which  surplus 
water  may  gather.  If  the  plot  has  hollows  too  large  to  be  filled  to 
a  drainage  grade,  an  under-ground  drain  of  tile  should  be  taken 
from  the  low  points  to  a  gravity  outflow — unless  the  soil  is  very  open 
and  deep  enough  to  naturally  distribute  all  water  likely  to  come  by 
rainfall  or  sprinkling  so  that  there  shall  not  be  standing  water  or  mud 
below  the  surface  for  that  will  cause  growth  of  sedges  or  other 
coarse  stuff  which  is  natural  to  such  conditions. 

Preparation  For  Seeding. — After  providing  for  grade  and  drainage 
a  heavy  coat  of  well-decomposed  manure  should  be  worked  in  by 
spading  to  full  reach  of  the  tool.  This  should  be  done  both  on  light 
and  heavy  soils  for  the  reasons  given  in  Chapter  III.  Although,  if 
moisture  conditions  are  favorable,  you  can  get  a  catch  of  grass  in  a 
garden  with  no  more  work  than  is  given  to  sowing  a  pasture  field, 
you  will  make  your  whole  future  course  of  experience  with  that  grass 
plot  more  gratifying  if  you  do  a  little  harder  work  at  beginning. 
While  spading  give  particular  attention  to  breaking  up  clods  and 
chunks  of  manure  by  deft  use  of  the  spading  fork,  which  the  writer 
has  always  found  better  than  a  flat-bladed  spade,  because  of  the 
pulverizing  effect  of  the  tines  in  punching  and  striking  lumps. 
Dig  for  an  even  surface  of  course,  but  do  not  think  you  are  doing 
a  good  job  if  you  are  simply  spreading  it  over  a  lot  of  clods  and  air- 
spaces. It  is  not  desirable  to  pulverize  the  surface  too  finely  unless 
you  are  doing  a  hurry  up  job  late  in  the  season  or  in  a  dry  time  and 
are  more  fearful  of  the  moisture  you  have  than  of  anything  else. 

When  to  Sow? — Taking  the  state  ,as  a  whole,  except  perhaps,  the 
high  mountain  valleys,  the  best  time  to  put  in  a  lawn  is  the  early 
autumn  and  if  you  have  water  to  deeply  wet  the  soil  in  August  and 
have  it  in  the  condition  described  in  the  last  paragraph  before  the  fall 
rains  begin,  you  will  have  made  a  good  start.  Let  the  ground  lie 
then  for  the  rains,  or  if  they  are  deferred,  wet  the  surface  by  light 
sprinkling  so  the  early  autumn  heat  may  sprout  the  wild  seeds. 


llfc  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Destroy  them  by  raking  or  let  all  that  will  perish  in  the  dry  heat,  cut 
out  the  survivors  with  a  hoe  and  sprinkle  again  lightly  to  start  some 
more  seeds  and  get  rid  of  them.  A  month  or  so  spent  in  this  way,  if 
you  started  in  August  or  September,  will  help  greatly  to  get  a  clean 
start  of  the  plant  you  desire.  But  if  all  this  preparation  seems  tire- 
some, you  can  proceed  to  seed  the  lawn,  if  the  soil  is  deeply  wet  by 
rain  or  sprinkling,  and  kill  more  weeds  afterwards.  The  point  is  to 
get  moisture  enough  below  to  keep  the  surface  from  drying  too 
quickly  after  you  put  in  your  seed;  also  to  invite  the  seedling  to  root 
deeply  after  starting.  If,  then,  you  are  in  the  midst  of  fall  showers, 
it  will  be  easier  to  get  a  stand  of  young  grass  and  to  escape  crusting 
of  the  surface  by  sprinkling.  It  should  be  clearly  stated  however  that 
though  the  early  autumn  moisture  season,  which  is  the  time  when 
nature  starts  her  seedlings,  is  best  to  kill  what  you  desire  to  escape  and 
to  start  what  you  wish  to  keep,  it  is  perfectly  possible  to  start  your 
lawn  at  any  time  of  the  year  except  when  the  soil  is  too  wet  to  work 
and  its  fullness  of  cold  water  does  not  give  good  conditions  for 
germination.  Those  who  know  how  to  put  in  lawns  will  contract  to 
do  it  successfully  for  you  any  day  of  the  year  that  the  soil  is  in  fair 
condition,  if  they  have  water  under  pressure  to  substitute  sprinkling 
for  rainfall. 

Seeding. — After  deep  digging  the  preparation  for  seeding  consists 
in  deep  raking  and  you  have  to  learn  the  knack  of  raking  without 
dragging  the  surface  into  humps  and  hollows.  It  is  the  function  of 
the  hand  which  is  nearest  to  the  rake-head  to  do  this  while  the  other 
hand  is  doing  the  pulling  and  pushing.  Learn  to  carry  the  chief 
weight  of  the  rake  on  this  lower  hand  and  you  can  pulverize  to  the 
depth  of  the  tines  without  shifting  the  soil  except  as  you  desire.  In 
this  and  in  other  acts  of  seeding,  tramping  the  surface  should  be 
avoided  by  working  through  the  center  of  the  plot  from  light  boards. 
A  six-inch  fence  board,  as  long  as  you  can  get  it,  is  most  convenient 
in  shifting. 

After  having  raked  the  width  you  can  handily  reach  from  the 
board — trundle  the  wheel  barrow  along  the  board  and  gather  up  the 
trash  you  have  raked  out.  Then  scatter  the  seed  also  from  the  board, 
for  it  is  easier  to  get  even  distribution  near  by,  rake  again  lightly  to 
cover  the  seed  and  go  ashore  for  a  wheel-barrow  load  of  finely  pulver- 
ized old  manure  which  should  be  dry  for  ease  in  pulverizing  and  in 
thinly  spreading  over  the  surface.  If  this  manure  has  been  treated  as 
described  in  Chapter  V.  it  carries  no  live  weed  seed  and  will  make  a 
nice  cover  to  shade  the  sprouting  seed  from  the  sun  and  to  keep 
the  surface  from  compacting  by  heavy  rain  or  frequent  sprinkling 
which  will  be  necessary  to  start  and  bring  along  the  grass  in  a  dry 
time.  This  way  of  putting  in  a  lawn  in  strips,  finishing  as  you  go,  is 


WHAT  GRASS  FOR  A  LAWN  119 

a  great  saving  of  effort.  About  all  the  beginner  has  to  look  out  for 
is  raking  so  that  the  surface  does  not  look  like  the  waves  of  the  sea 
but  that  is  avoided  by  raking  expertly,  lapping  the  strips  and  not 
trying  to  get  along  with  strips  too  wide  for  good  work. 

What  Kind  of  Seed? — It  is  the  conviction  of  the  writer  that  the 
best  textured,  best  colored  and  most  beautiful  of  all  lawns  in  California 
are  those  of  the  Kentucky  Blue  Grass,  but  such  a  result  is  secured  at 
the  price  of  the  best  skill,  the  most  persistent  work  and  the  most 
abundant  watering.  His  choice  for  his  own  place  however  is  a  lawn 
of  Kentucky  Blue  Gnass  and  White  or  Dutch  Clover.  The  clover 
shows  a  green  when  the  Blue  grass  is  disposed  to  brown  a  little 
in  frosty  weather  and  thus  gives  a  better  winter  effect  from 
the  mixture  than  from  Blue  Grass  alone.  Besides  the  White 
Clover  is  a  quicker  space-filler  and  thickens  the  carpet  sooner  but 
does  not  prevent  the  Blue  Grass  from  sufficiently  asserting  itself  later. 
In  fact  the  two  go  along  well  together  for  years  if  given  even  fair 
treatment.  It  is  possible  to  get  a  good  stand  with  a  pound  of  seed 
to  300  sq.  ft.  of  surface,  but  it  is  better  to  increase  the  amount  to 
one  pound  to  200  sq.  ft.  The  seed  costs  less  than  disappointment. 
Where  the  seeds  are  sown  together,  some  use  equal  parts  of  each, 
others  twice  as  much  Blue  Grass  as  White  Clover.  It  depends  upon 
which  you  wish  to  preponderate. 

It  is  possible  to  get  a  very  satisfactory  lawn  from  White  Clover 
sown  alone  and  some  prefer  the  aspect  of  the  persistently  appearing 
white  blossom  heads.  Our  taste  is  for  a  clean  green-sward  such  as 
comes  from  the  mixture  for  the  blue  grass  keeps  the  clover  from 
rioting,  if  frequently  cut.  On  the  other  hand  we  greatly  like 
white  clover  for  a  laundry  yard  or  a  backyard  lawn,  because 
it  responds  very  rapidly  to  less  water  than  Blue  Grass  requires,  and 
because,  owing  to  the  tenderness  of  its  stems,  it  is  quite  easily  cut 
with  a  dull  lawn  mower,  such  as  the  most  conscientious  amateur 
is  apt  occasionally  to  have. 

If  you  wish  to  get  a  lawn  very  quickly,  and  one  that  will  maintain  a 
respectable  appearance  with  a  little  less  care  and  water,  Australian  Rye 
grass  and  white  clover  sown  together  will  probably  give  the  best  results. 
The  Rye  grass  lawn  never  has  the  beauty  of  the  Blue  Grass,  and  yet  Rye 
grass  is  very  widely  used  in  this  State,  because  it  will  be  fair  looking  with 
less  water  and  labor.  It  has,  however,  the  common  habit  of  drouth- 
resistant  grasses,  viz.,  to  become  bunchy,  and  its  persistence  in  seeding 
causes  it  to  make  wiry  seed  stems  instead  of  foliage,  and  these  are  exceed- 
ingly hard  to  cut.  The  amount  of  seed  is  the  same  as  already  given  for  the 
other  mixture. 


120  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Another  grass  which  comes  easily  and  is  used  considerably  for  areas 
partly  shaded  by  trees,  is  Orchard  grass.  Its  coarseness  and  bad  habits  are 
those  belonging  to  Rye  grass,  but,  like  that  grass,  it  is  also  easy. 

The  grass  which  is  surest  to  catch  in  a  place  and  surest  to  hold  on  ig 
Bermuda  grass,  but  it  can  hardly  be  mentioned  in  a  garden  connection 
because  it  invades  all  areas  not  intended  for  it  and  is  practically  impossible 
to  dislodge.  And  yet  Bermuda  grass  is  an  exceedingly  grateful  plant  and 
will  give  more  verdure  for  less  care  than  any  other  plant  grown  for  lawn 
purposes.  It  is  also  very  tolerant  of  alkali  soils  and  will  grow  with  little 
or  no  watering,  even  in  our  hottest,  driest  places.  It  does  become  stemmy 
and  rubbishy,  however,  and  it  loses  its  whole  top  growth  by  frost,  so  that  it 
cannot  be  depended  upon  for  verdure.  In  summer,  however,  it  is  turfy  and 
cushiony,  and  one  can  get  much  joy  from  it,  if  near  the  close  of  the  frosty 
season  all  the  rubbish  is  sharply  raked  off  and  burned — for  fear  of  spread- 
ing by  root  or  seed.  After  raking  one  can  shave  off  the  whole  surface 
with  a  sharp  spade  and  in  this  way  a  softer  growith  will  be  secured  from 
the  roots.  A  start  can  be  made  either  from  the  seed  or  by  tearing  up  and 
chopping  the  roots  into  small  pieces — for  every  inch  or  so  of  the  root  will 
make  a  plant — and  raking  these  root-pieces  into  the  soil.  Bermuda  grass 
will  grow  in  all  parts  of  the  State  except  at  elevations  where  there  may  be 
monthly  frosts  or  deep  ground-freezing  in  winter.  Its  usefulness,  however, 
is  greatest  in  the  interior  valleys.  The  late  Mrs.  Sherman  of  Fresno  once 
said  of  it :  "The  center  of  attraction  in  the  garden  is  the  lawn,  and  with 
the  despised  Bermuda  grass  anyone  can  make  one — one  the  babies  can  roll 
on,  the  older  children  play  tag  on,  and  the  family  all  have  their  rocking 
chairs  out  there  without  fear  of  spoiling  the  grass;  indeed,  this  grass  rather 
enjoys  being  abused,  for  it  gives  it  a  chance  to  show  how  it  can  rise  to 
meet  hardship." 

Alfalfa  can  hardly  be  said  to  make  a  lawn,  although  it  does  produce 
verdure  which  is  very  grateful  to  the  eye  and  vegetation  acceptable  to  the 
cow  and  the  fowls  during  the  dry  season,  and  it  can  be  had  with  little  cost 
or  effort. 

WHAT   OTHER   CALIFORNIANS   SAY   OF  LAWNS. 

To  broaden  this  discussion  of  so  important  a  matter  as  a  California 
lawn  beyond  the  writer's  experience  and  observation,  welcome  is  given  to  a 
few  paragraphs  which  may  be  helpful  to  readers : 

Why  Seed  Heavily. — Charles  Winsell  of  Los  Angeles  argues  for 
plenty  of  seed  in  this  way :  "One  pound  of  grass  seed  should  be  used  for 
every  200  square  feet.  The  best  lawns  in  our  vicinity  are  made  of  Kentucky 
blue  grass  and  white  clover.  These  should  be  used  in  equal  proportions. 
This  amount  of  seed  may  seem  heavy,  but  there  are  several  reasons  for  it, 
as  well  as  mixing  the  blue  grass  and  clover.  Much  soil  has  not  been 
intensively  cultivated  nor  watered  until  the  lawn  is  made,  consequently  this 


METHODS  OF  LAWN  MAKING  121 

soil  is  full  of  weed  seeds.  It  is  impossible  to  make  them  all  germinate  at 
the  same  time,  even  though  the  ground  has  been  thoroughly  prepared. 
The  remaining  seeds  will  germinate  gradually  while  the  new  lawn  is  in 
process  of  growing.  If  lawn  seed  is  not  used  in  good  proportions,  or  if  the 
seed  is  of  a  poor  quality,  these  weed  seeds  will  predominate  and  get  ahead 
of  the  lawn  seed." 

Why  Clover  With  the  Blue  Grass. — Mr.  Winsell  also  gives  reasons 
for  this  mixture  of  seed:  "In  places  which  are  most  exposed  to  the  sun, 
weak  spots  will  appear  in  the  lawn  if  it  is  not  watched  very  carefully.  It 
is  only  a  matter  of  time  when  devil  grass  will  appear  in  such  places  and 
soon  spread  throughout  the  lawn.  To  remedy  this,  the  white  clover  is  used 
in  connection  with  the  blue  grass.  The  blue  grass  is  slow  to  germinate, 
especially  when  the  nights  are  cold.  In  fact,  it  takes  nearly  a  year  to  stool 
out  enough  to  make  a  good  start.  The  clover  will  germinate  readily  in 
either  warm  or  cool  weather.  It  will  shelter  the  blue  grass  and  crowd  out 
the  weeds,  and  in  the  meantime  the  blue  grass  will  be  stooling  out,  leaving 
no  room  for  devil  grass  or  other  undesirable  weeds.  These  conditions 
prevail  around  places  that  are  inland.  However,  the  conditions  differ  as 
we  near  the  ocean.  Clover  will  stand  the  ocean  breeze  much  better  than 
blue  grass.  It  will  stool  out  more,  and  will  not  grow  as  rank  as  the  blue 
grass.  Neither  does  it  require  the  moisture  that  it  does  when  grown 
inland." 

Poultry  Manure  for  the  Lawn. — Poultry  manure,  if  kept  in  good 
condition,  free  of  feathers  and  trash,  is  better  for  the  lawn  than  barnyard 
manure.  By  removing  the  poultry  droppings  daily  and  keeping  them  in  a 
covered  box  or  barrel  with  a  layer  of  dry  dust  over  them,  they  make  the 
very  best  fertilizer  for  lawns,  flower  beds  and  kitchen  gardens.  It  is  not 
alone  richer  than  barnyard  manure,  its  elements  are  more  easily  utilized, 
being,  almost  as  quick  in  their  action  as  nitrate  of  soda,  and  it  is  free  of  the 
nits  and  larvae  of  grubs  and  flies,  while  barnyard  manure  is  the  habitat  of 
all  such. 

Sowing  Grass  Seed  With  a  Sieve. — Sow  grass  seed- with  a  sieve.  The 
latter  can  be  readily  made  by  taking  the  bottom  out  of  a  small  shallow  box 
and  tacking  a  piece  of  wire  window  screen  in  its  place.  It  will  always 
come  handy  about  the  garden.  After  the  ground  is  thickly  sown  with  the 
grass  seed,  cover  with  sandy  loam  put  on  with  the  sieve,  then  wet  down 
with  the  sprinkler.  Some  mellow  soil  from  the  chicken  yard  is  good  for 
the  covering,  as  the  fowls  will  have  scratched  out  all  seeds  and  insects. 
The  planted  seeds  must  not  be  allowed  to  dry  out,  and  the  lawn  will  need 
to  be  sprinkled  every  evening  in  dry  weather. 

Burning  Off  Weed  Seed. — If  the  plot  to  be  seeded  to  lawn  is  over- 
grown with  dry  weeds,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  burn  it  over,  as  this  kills  many 
weed  seeds  and  insects,  and  the  residue  is  excellent  fertilizer.  In  any  case, 
rake  up  and  burn  all  trash,  then  wet  down  and  spade  the  ground,  and  thus 


122  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

tempt  the  dormant  roots  and  seeds  to  show  up.  When  these  have  covered 
the  ground,  turn  them  under  and  allow  them  to  rot.  Now  spade  deeply 
and  mix  well  with  manure,  then  sprinkle  and  leave  for  another  showing 
of  weeds,  which  cut  out  as  fast  as  they  appear.  When  there  is  no  further 
growth  of  weeds,  spade  and  grade  or  level  the  plot. 

Clover  Preparatory  to  Blue  Grass. — An  Oakland  gardener,  whose 
name  is  not  recorded,  gives  this  advice :  "The  quickest  lawn,  the  one 
which  is  most  certain  to  give  good  results  on  almost  any  ground,  and  one 
which  is  so  attractive  that  many  people  actually  prefer  it  on  its  own  merits 
to  any  variety  of  grass,  is  the  white  clover.  Clover,  being  a  legume,  instead 
of  depleting  the  soil,  adds  nitrogen  to  it,  and  brings  it  into  a  better  and 
more  fertile  condition.  If  you  want  to  have,  ultimately,  a  Kentucky  blue 
grass  lawn,  which,  after  all,  is,  in  the  general  estimation,  the  ideal  lawn, 
you  will  do  well  to  plant  white  clover  first,  and  at  the  end  of  a  year  allow 
it  to  grow  tall  and  rank,  then  dig  it  up  and  turn  it  under  as  a  green  manure 
before  planting  your  Kentucky  blue  grass.  This  way  you  will  be  pretty 
sure  of  a  successful  blue  grass  lawn  in  the  end,  whereas  you  may  struggle 
along  for  a  year  by  other  methods  and  not  succeed  in  getting  a  good  lawn 
in  that  time.  Sow  white  clover  seed  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  to  350  square 
feet." 

Sowing  With  Sand. — The  same  writer  gives  this  hint  about  handling 
seed :  "Buy  only  the  best  re-cleaned  seed,  and  in  order  to  sow  it  evenly, 
mix  it  with  twice  its  bulk  of  clean  sand.  If  you  suspect  that  the  sand  is  the 
least  bit  salty,  put  it  in  a  pail  and  cover  it  with  water,  and  pour  the  water" 
off,  two  or  three  times.  Sow  the  sand  and  clover  seed,  mixed  together, 
evenly  over  your  plot,  standing  on  boards  and  moving  them  along  so  as  not 
to  indent  the  lawn  surface." 

The  Roller  on  the  Lawn. — The  desirability  of  using  a  roller  in  lawn 
work  depends  largely  upon  the  character  of  the  soil,  and  afterwards  of  the 
turf  which  is  secured.  As  a  rule  the  roller  is  an  implement  for  light  sandy 
soils  and  not  for  heavy  soils,  which  are  apt  to  become  too  compact  by 
action  of  water,  without  rolling.  Therefore  this  advice  has  to  be  discrim- 
inatingly read:  "Scratch  the  seed  mixture  in  lightly  with  a  steel  rake, 
taking  care  not  to  pull  the  seed  up  into  patches;  then  roll  with  a  light 
roller.  Patting  with  the  flat  of  a  spade  is  a  poor  substitute  for  rolling,  and 
it  is  impossible  to  have  a  perfectly  smooth,  even  lawn,  without  the  use  of 
a  lawn  roller.  Two  or  three  neighbors  could  club  together  and  buy  one  in 
partnership,  if  necessary,  but  it  is  a  mistake  to  try  to  get  along  without 
one.  Frequent  rolling  after  the  lawn  has  become  established  makes  the 
turf  firm  and  close  and  keeps  the  surface  even." 

The  sandier  the  soil  and  drier  the  situation  the  greater  the  benefit  of 
rolling,  probably.  The  following  may  help  readers  having  to  do  with  such 
conditions.  It  is  the  way  to  make  a  lawn  in  Arizona,  according  to  Mark 
Walker,  formerly  of  the  experiment  station  of  that  State:  "To  overcome 


METHODS  OF  LAWN   MAKING  123 

the  excessive  porosity  of  the  soil,  we  find  it  necessary  to  trench  and  screen 
for  all  border  and  lawn  work — for  the  latter  to  a  depth  of  twelve  to 
eighteen  inches.  After  this  we  harrow  in  some  well-rotted  manure,  roll 
down  firm  and  level,  then  sow  preferably  blue  grass,  at  the  rate  of  three 
bushels  to  the  acre,  rake  in  very  lightly,  mulch  with  about  two  inches  of 
coarse  stable  manure,  then  water  thoroughly  and  repeat  the  watering  as 
the  top  soil  becomes  dry.  If  sown  in  the  spring,  the  seed  should  germinate 
in  from  four  to  six  weeks,  and  success  will  be  determined  by  the  treat- 
ment given  in  these  weeks.  When  portions  of  the  lawn  fail  to  germinate, 
we  find  it  best  to  wait  till  the  rest  comes  up  three  or  four  inches,  and  then 
transplant  what  is  needed  to  fill  out  the  ground,  in  turfs  of  two  or  three 
inches  in  diameter,  giving  a  mulch  of  good  top  dressing  around  each  turf ; 
this  method  is  preferable  to  resowing  the  blank  spots.  When  symptoms  of 
exhaustion  appear  we  mulch  quite  heavily,  as  we  find  the  excessive 
sprinkling  necessary  to  keep  the  lawns  up  in  good  color  entails  rapid  ex- 
haustion of  the  soil.  Rolling  and  frequent  mowing  are  essential  to  the 
acquisition  of  a  really  beautiful  lawn." 

Trenching  for  a  Lawn. — If  one  wishes  to  do  something  very  thor- 
ough in  preparation  for  a  lawn,  this  will  meet  the  desire:  "The  best  way 
to  prepare  the  ground  for  a  lawn  is  to  trench  it.  Stretch  strings  across 
from  side  to  side  of  the  plot,  two  feet  apart,  and  dig  off  the  top  soil  from 
this  strip  to  a  depth  of  six  inches,  heaping  it  up  at  the  opposite  end  of  the 
plot.  Then  go  down  eight  or  ten  inches  with  your  spade  and  thoroughly 
break  up  the  subsoil.  For  heavy  clay  soils  you  will  have  to  dig  about  two 
feet  deep.  After  this,  spread  on  well-rotted  manure  in  a  layer  two  or  three 
inches  thick,  and  mix  it  with  the  earth.  Take  up  your  first  string  and 
stretch  it  again  two  feet  beyond  the  second  one  and  dig  off  the  top  soil 
from  this  strip  to  a  depth  of  six  inches,  placing  it  on  top  of  the  manure  in 
the  first  trench.  Continue  this  process  until  you  have  gone  across  your 
lawn,  and  when  you  get  to  the  last  strip,  cover  it  with  the  top  soil  taken 
from  the  first  trench.  This  may  seem  a  good  deal  of  trouble,  but  it  is  really 
not  much  more  work  than  spading  up  the  soil  without  method,  and  it  gives 
far  better  results." 

How  Major  Hall  Made  Lawns. — Some  years  ago  Major  Hall  of  Pacific 
Beach  made  a  lawn  on  two  plots,  each  30x15  feet  in  size.  He  put  a  load  of 
manure  on  each  plot,  spaded  it  well,  then  sifted  more  manure  over  the  top ; 
kept  it  wet  until  vegetation  started,  then  hoed  over  the  entire  ground,  wet 
again  and  let  the  weeds  start  again,  repeating  the  operation  till  all  vegetable 
life  is  destroyed.  He  advises  not  sowing  grass  seed  until  it  is  settled  warm 
weather.  He  sowed  on  each  plot  five  pounds  of  Kentucky  blue  grass  and 
two  and  one-half  pounds  white  clover,  raked  in  lightly  and  kept  watered, 
never  letting  it  dry  out  even  on  the  surface.  In  three  weeks  he  began  to  cut 
it  with  a  lawn  mower.  In  summer  it  was  cut  every  day ;  in  winter  twice  a 
week.  He  says  the  great  secret  is  in  having  everything  grown  and  hoed 


124  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

out  of  the  soil  before  you  put  in  the  grass  seed,  then  there  will  be  no 
having  the  family  and  the  hired  man  out  to  pick  weeds  out  of  the  lawn. 
By  careful  attention  it  will  soon  become  as  soft  as  a  carpet,  and  far  more 
handsome.  He  says  further  that  the  manure  used  should  be  scrapings 
from  the  cow  yard,  not  the  horse  stable,  as  this  alone  would  burn.  He 
says  the  fine  work  is  after  the  ground  is  made  ready  by  the  heavy  manur- 
ing, in  keeping  it  continually  wet  and  hoeing  out  all  weeds.  After  the  seed 
is  sown  be  very  careful  in  watering  not  to  wash  it  with  heavy  sprays,  but 
with  light  fine  spray  that  will  wet  thoroughly  but  will  not  move  the  seed. 
Do  this  till  it  is  all  up  and  growing,  then  wet  morning,  noon  and  night.  In 
three  days  the  clover  will  be  up,  in  five  or  six  days  the  blue  grass,  and  in 
ten  days  you  can  use  the  lawn  mower,  and  the  more  you  use  it  the  better 
the  lawn  will  be.  The  all-important  thing  is  never  to  let  the  ground  dry 
after  sowing  the  seed."  Major  Hall  certainly  had  rapid  grass  seed.  It 
usually  takes  much  longer  than  he  mentions  to  get  the  mower  on. 

Mulching  for  Lawns. — Mr.  Winsell  enforces  the  desirability  of  a 
surface-cover  in  this  way:  "After  the  seed  is  sown,  it  is  generally  raked 
in.  It  is  not  advisable  to  cover  lawn  seed  too  much,  especially  the  clover, 
or  it  will  not  germinate  if  covered  too  deep.  As  the  surface  dries  out 
rapidly,  especially  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  even  though  carefully  watered 
in  the  morning  or  evening,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  start  a  lawn  evenly 
without  the  use  of  a  mulch,  which  prevents  this  drying  of  the  surface 
through  the  day,  and  baking.  The  best  mulch  or  covering  is  old  stable 
manure  that  has  been  piled  up  and  heated  for  at  least  six  months  before 
using.  This  heating  not  only  makes  the  manure  very  fine,  but  also  causes 
all  the  weed  seeds  to  germinate  and  burn  up  during  the  heating  process. 
Never  use  fresh  manure  for  covering  a  new  lawn.  The  result  will  be  a 
crop  of  weeds,  barley  and  oats,  and  fresh  cow  manure  will  produce  burr 
clover  and  devil  grass.  An  excellent  covering  for  a  lawn  is  the  pulverized 
sheep  manure.  This,  to  be  in  proper  condition,  should  also  have  been  piled 
up  and  heated  the  same  as  the  stable  manure,  in  order  that  all  weed  seeds 
may  be  killed." 

"Many  gardeners  are  using  shavings  to  take  the  place  of  manure  in 
mulching.  When  shavings  are  used  they  should  always  be  the  coarse 
kind,  and  spread  very  thinly  over  the  ground  after  the  seed  has  been 
put  in.  Never  use  sawdust.  It  is  too  fine  and  will  prevent  the  lawn 
from  making  a  good  stand.  We  have  experimented  with  manure  and 
shavings  mixed,  after  having  been  piled  up  and  heated  for  some  time, 
and  we  find  it  to  be  a  good  mulch  for  a  lawn,  or  even  for  flowers." 

The  emphasis  laid  on  avoiding  fine  stuff  which  mats  the  surface  too 
closely  is  important.  It  prevents  growth  from  the  seed. 


How  TO  HAVE  A  CLEAN  LAWN  125 

WEEDS  IN  LAWNS. 

The  writer's  experience  is  that  many  of  the  weeds  which  appear  in  new 
lawns  can  be  subdued  by  keeping  the  lawns  well  cut.  Other  weeds  must  be 
hand  pulled.  We  usually  begin  with  a  lawn  mower  as  soon  as  the  grass  is 
about  two  or  three  inches  high,  and  follow  by  hand  pulling  of  the  strongest 
growing  weeds.  A  little  later  it  is  well  to  make  a  systematic  weeding. 
After  that  continue  with  the  mower,  only  pulling  weeds  occasionally  as 
they  become  obtrusive. 

Dandelions. — A  pest  which  one  is  very  apt  to  get  with  grass  seed, 
or  to  have  blown  into  his  place,  is  the  dandelion,  and  it  is  very  hard  to 
extirpate.  Dr.  R.  R.  Snowden  of  Los  Angeles  says  he  has  done  it  in  this 
way:  "A  narrow  kitchen  knife  was  sharpened  to  a  square  at  the  end, 
chisel-like.  A  little  jab  below  the  crown  and  an  upward  jerk  with  this 
instrument  closed  the  career  of  one  plant ;  and  a  half  hour  each  morning 
for  a  short  time  cleared  the  lawn  completely.  The  larger  plants  have 
enough  food  stored  in  the  root  to  persist  in  their  renewal,  so  I  pushed  a 
piece  of  three-quarter  inch  gas  pipe  down  over  each,  bringing  up  the  root 
and  leaving  a  small  hole  that  the  grass  quickly  covered."  Dr.  Snowden 
succeeds  because  he  gets  so  much  of  the  root  out.  It  is  idle  to  pull  off  the 
top  and  cutting  avails  little  unless  one  gets  below  the  dormant  buds  which 
the  root-crown  has  in  abundance. 

It  is  possible  that  broad-leaved  weeds  like  dandelions  can  be  controlled 
by  spraying  with  copperas  water.  The  Colorado  Agricultural  College  has 
conducted  a  series  of  experiments  with  killing  dandelions  in  lawns,  using 
four  solutions,  one  of  the  strength  of  20  per  cent,  one  of  10,  another  of  5, 
another  of  2^2.  The  two  stronger  sprays  killed  all  the  leaves  of  the  dan- 
delion, also  somewhat  blackened  the  grass.  It  afterwards  showed  a  darker 
and  richer  green  than  the  untreated  areas.  The  conclusions  reached  by 
those  conducting  the  experiments  are  given  as  follows :  It  is  evident  that 
a  15  per  cent  solution  should  be  practically  as  effective  as  the  20  per  cent 
for  this  purpose,  and  that  three  applications,  the  first  as  soon  as  the  plants 
are  in  full  leaf  in  the  spring;  the  second  in  about  three  weeks,  and  the 
last  in  midsummer,  should  prove  effective  in  controlling  this  pest.  Al- 
though the  grass  was  very  thin  on  the  areas  treated  it  soon  began  to 
thicken,  and  by  October  1  formed  a  fairly  close  sod.  Nearly  all  the  white 
clover  was  killed  by  the  two  strongest  solutions. 

JBrowri  Clover. — Another  persistent  lawn  pest  is  the  so-called 
"brown  clover,"  making  a  yellow  blossom  and  snapping  its  seeds  widely.  It 
is  an  oxalis.  The  only  way  we  know  of  to  eradicate  it  is  to  carefully  root 
out  every  particle  of  it.  If  there  is  very  much  of  it  this,  of  course,  is  an 
appalling  undertaking,  and  it  might  be  better  to  replant  the  lawn,  digging 
very  deeply  and  being  careful  to  throw  every  particle  of  the  old  sod  to  the 
very  bottom.  We  have,  however,  seen  lawns  cleaned  by  faithful  hand  work 


126  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

by  using  a  steel  table  fork,  thrusting  it  into  the  sod  and  lifting  somewhat 
so  that  the  root  of  the  oxalis  becomes  loosened,  and  then  it  can  be  taken 
out  in  considerable  bunches.  Cutting  or  picking  off  the  top  leaves,  of  course, 
accomplishes  nothing.  The  use  of  the  fork  accomplishes  a  more  complete 
rooting  out  than  is  possible  by  finger-pulling.  The  process  has,  however, 
to  be  repeated  several  times,  and  one  has  to  be  always  on  the  watch  for  it. 

Moss  in  Lawns. — 'Moss  is  a  common  intruder  upon  shady  lawns 
and  the  admission  of  more  sunlight  would  discourage  it.  If  this  is  not 
feasible,  irrigation  less  frequently,  but  a  more  thorough  soaking  each  time, 
will  give  the  surface  a  better  chance  to  dry  off,  and  moss  will  not  grow  on 
a  dry  surface.  The  frequent  spraying  of  a  lawn  with  just  enough  water 
to  keep  the  surface  moist  and  not  enough  water  to  penetrate  deeply  will 
tend  to  the  growing  of  moss  and  to  less  vigor  in  the  growth  of  the  grass, 
A  good  soaking  of  the  soil  once  a  week  is  better  than  daily  sprinkling, 
but  of  course  very  much  more  water  must  be  used  when  you  only  sprinkle 
at  long  intervals. 

Brown  Spots  in  Lawn, — It  is  not  possible  to  tell  what  causes  all 
the  brown  spots  in  lawns.  We  have  seen  instances  we  could  not  explain, 
and  others  which  were  plainly  due  to  different  causes.  Whatever  kills 
grass  makes  such  a  spot  and  we  have  found  it  caused  sometimes  by  white 
grubs,  sometimes  by  the  voidings  of  dogs,  sometimes  to  excess  of  lime 
from  the  presence  of  a  mortar  box  during  building,  where  subsequently  a 
lawn  was  made,  sometimes  to  rise  of  alkali  in  spots  where  the  soil  con- 
tained that  substance. 

A  case  was  recently  reported  from  Santa  Clara  county  in  which  there 
first  appeared  a  round,  dead  yellow  spot.  This  spot  increased,  finally  re- 
covering somewhat  in  the  center.  The  dead  yellow  part  becomes  a  yellow- 
like  circumference  of  a  large  circle.  Such  an  instance  is  interesting  be- 
cause it  seems  to  indicate  the  formation  of  a  "fairy  ring,"  which  is  noted 
in  the  pastures  and  meadows  at  the  east  and  abroad.  This  is  due  to  the 
start  and  progress  of  a  fungus,  Marasmius  oreades.  In  course  of  its 
attack  the  center  revives  and  the  ring  keeps  expanding  as  described,  but 
we  are  not  aware  that  this  fungus  has  been  determined  in  this  State. 

As  for  treatment,  the  handling  of  dead  spots  of  all  kinds  would  be 
similar.  Cut  out  a  part  of  the  sod  somewhat  larger  than  the  spot,  remove 
the  earth  to  a  spade's  depth,  fill  in  with  fresh  earth  mixed  with  a  reason- 
able amount  of  fertilizer,  resow  the  spot  or  fill  it  with  pieces  of  sod  which 
can  be  spared  from  the  edge  of  the  lawn,  and  bring  it  along  by  frequent 
watering,  cutting,  etc.,  to  a  normal  condition. 

WORMS  AND  SNAILS  IN  LAWNS. 

Occasionally  a  lawn  space  becomes  infested  with  angle  worms,  and 
complaint  made  that  their  "castings"  have  been  made  all  over  the  ground 
until  the  grass  is  nearly  all  killed  out.  This  is  due  to  excessive  use  of 


SUBSTITUTES  FOR  GRASS  LAWNS  127 

water  on  an  ill-drained  spot  which  drowns  out  the  worms  with  too  much 
water  and  perhaps  the  ground  gets  too  little  direct  sunshine  to  promote  a 
vigorous  growth  of  grass  which  could  make  good  use  of  the  water.  Such 
a  piece  should  be  resown  after  underdraining  with  tile,  or,  if  that  calls  for 
too  great  expenditure,  dig  as  deeply  as  can  be  without  disturbing  large 
roots  of  the  trees ;  clearing  out  small  roots  will  not  hurt  the  trees  and  it  is 
necessary  to  get  some  free  ground  if  you  are  to  have  any  grass  at  all.  Dig 
in  stable  manure  and  use  with  it  lime  at  the  rate  of  500  pounds  to  the  acre. 
This  will  help  to  discourage  the  worms  and  improve  the  soil  also.  Then  do 
not  water  too  frequently,  but  keep  the  grass  growing  without  making  the 
soil  soggy  with  standing  water. 

Snails  or  "slugs"  are  sometimes  very  abundant  in  clover  lawns  as  the 
result  of  excessive  watering,  or  at  least  of  too  frequent  surface  sprinkling. 
When  the  ground  is  given  a  thorough  soaking,  say  once  a  wee'k,  and  the 
foliage  allowed  to  become  dry,  except  for  dew,  during  the  intervening  days 
one  is  apt  to  have  a  very  thrifty  growth  of  clover  and  no  slugs.  On  the 
other  hand,  clover  daily  sprinkled  has  seemed  to  be  almost  alive  with  the 
pests.  Clover  does  not  need  as  much  water  as  frequently  some  give  it.  Try 
thorough  soaking  occasionally  and  stop  the  frequent  sprinkling. 

PLANTS  FOR  GROUND-COVERS. 

Ground-covering  plants  of  prostrate  habit  are  largely  available  to  secure 
a  semblance  of  lawn-like  verdure.  They  are  of  course  not  comparable  in 
effect  with  a  good  lawn,  and,  in  the  writer's  view,  are  inferior  even  to  a 
fairly  poor  lawn,  but,  to  say  the  least  of  them,  they  are  better  than  no  lawn 
at  all  and  are  rendering  wide  service  along  that  line.  Their  chief  service, 
and  in  that  respect  they  are  entitled  to  rather  higher  rating  perhaps,  is  the 
covering  of  banks  and  terraces  upon  which  summer  verdure  with  grasses 
and  clovers  can  only  be  maintained  at  too  great  cost  of  work  and  water. 

One  thing  must  be  insisted  upon,  however,  and  that  is  that  they  be  not 
expected  to  look  well  without  a  modicum  of  care,  and  if  possible,  a  bath 
now  and  then  for  the  sake  of  their  cleanliness  in  the  dry  season.  The 
particular  care  which  they  require  is  the  pulling  out  'of  tall  weeds  and  of 
wild  grains  and  grasses  which  shoot  up  through  their  prostrate  growth. 
Bare  ground  neatly  raked  is  far  handsomer  than  a  ground-cover  which  is 
hardly  discernible  through  plumes  of  dead  grasses  and  weeds,  and  through 
a  coating  of  summer  dust,  blown  papers,  dead  leaves,  etc.  Therefore,  if  one 
decides  to  forego  a  lawn  and  trust  to  a  ground-cover,  let  him  remember 
that  even  this  must  be  grown  and  maintained  in  a  good-gardening  way. 

There  are  many  plants  which  may  be  used  as  ground-covers,  and  prob- 
ably the  writer  has  only  seen  a  fraction  of  their  full  number.  The  charac- 
ters desirable  in  such  a  plant  are :  flat-growth  and  little  disposition  to  rise 
in  masses  and  tangles,  which  require  much  pruning;  even  color  of  foliage, 
because  dying  leaves  are  inconspicuous ;  scanty  bloom  or  the  absence  of  it 


128  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

(unless  one  choose  the  plant  purposely  for  the  enjoyment  of  its  bloom)  ; 
dense  growth  to  reduce  penetration  of  weeds  to  a  minimum;  evergreen 
habit  and  bright  green  hue,  although  one  may  have  to  sacrifice  the  hue  to 
secure  other  good  points.  In  fact,  the  writer  does  not  know  any  single 
plant  which  has  all  these  desirable  traits  and  is  therefore  still  waiting  for 
wisdom.  He  mentions  those  he  knows : 

Prostrate  Juniper. — A  plant  which  serves  a  good  purpose  for  a  flat 
margin  or  "parking"  along  interior  driveways  or  board  walks  to  replace 
floral  borders,  which  require  constant  attention  to  be  presentable,  is  the 
prostrate  juniper  (Juniperus  prostata).  It  is,  however,  of  rather  slow 
growth,  must  be  planted  with  pot-grown  seedlings  of  some  age  and  re- 
quires hoeing  to  kill  weeds  and  hold  moisture  while  extending  its  branches, 
which  are  of  the  style  of  coniferous  trees  except  that  it  shows  but  little 
rising  tendency.  A  small,  well-kept  area  of  it  is  quite  handsome. 

Prostrate  Ceanothus. — This  plant  is  Ceanothus  prostrata,  and  is 
often  called  "Mahala  mat,"  or  "squaw  carpet."  It  is  very  plentiful  in  the 
middle  altitudes  of  the  Sierras,  and  in  the  Coast  ranges,  often  forming  mats 
or  carpets  of  deep  green  of  considerable  extent  in  quite  dry  places.  It  is 
evergreen  and  might  well  replace  lawns  in  the  mountains.  How  far  it 
tolerates  other  situations  we  do  not  know.  It  roots  from  creeping  stems, 
but  there  has  been  some  trouble  in  making  it  grow  from  rooted  stems.  It 
is,  however,  easily  propagated  from  the  seed,  but  this  seed  will  probably 
have  to  be  obtained  from  local  collectors,  as  it  does  not  seem  to  be  listed 
by  seedsmen,  so  far  as  we  have  seen, 

Mesembryanthemums. — This  succulent,  called  aequilaterale  from  its 
fleshy  leaves  with  three  equal  sides,  which  one  is  apt  to  find  installed  here 
and  there  on  the  California  beaches,  wherever  it  can  find  a  nook  out  of 
the  sand-blow  and  the  brine,  is  serving  a  very  wide  purpose  as  a  ground- 
cover.  It  is  very  drouth-resistant,  and  grows  easily  from  long  stem-cut- 
tings even  carelessly  covered  with  soil,  at  distances  of  a  couple  of  feet  each 
way,  over  the  ground  to  be  covered.  It  grows  very  flat  and  its  sessile 
blossoms  have  no  stems  to  become  ugly.  Its  color  is  a  dark  green.  Another 
species,  roseum,  is  grayish-green,  with  much  smaller  foliage,  also  succulent, 
and  is  popular  for  covering  rocks,  etc.  In  large  area  it  is  inferior  to  the 
first-named  species,  as  it  grows  more  densely  but  presents  a  humpy,  irregu- 
lar surface. 

Wild  Strawberries. — The  native  beach-strawberry  (Fragaria  chilen- 
sis)  is  a  very  popular  ground-cover;  looks  well  on  terraces  above  rough 
stone  walls,  and  is  also  used  on  large  open  spaces.  It  roots  runners  readily 
and  soon  fills  spaces  between  plants  set  a  couple  of  feet  apart.  It  has  large, 
dark  green  foliage  and  white  blossoms.  Another  species  is  of  smaller 
growth,  lighter  green,  yellow  flowers  and  prominent  bright  red  fruits, 
which  are  very  beautiful  but  as  inedible  as  basswood  and  therefore  do  not 


ROSE  IN  BUSH  FORM,  BEFORE  AND  AFTER  PRUNING. 


PLATE  7:     STANDARD  ROSE  BEFORE  AND  AFTER  PRUNING — PAGE  146. 


SUBSTITUTES  FOR  GRASS  LAWNS  129 

tempt  anyone  to  rob  the  vines.  For  small  banks  this  yellow-flowered 
species  (Fragaria  indica)  is  very  desirable,  but  the  first  mentioned  is  on 
the  whole  better  for  considerable  areas,  as  it  seems  to  hold  its  color  better 
and  more  uniformly. 

Trailing  Roses. — Several  species  and  popular  varieties  of  running 
roses  have  long  been  used  as  ground-covers,  even  involving  elaborate  sys- 
tems of  pegging  down  the  canes,  etc.  This  involves  a  great  amount  of 
labor  and  constant  pruning  away  of  spent  flower-stems  when  floriferous 
kinds  are  used.  Even  the  annual  bloomers  call  for  much  care  because  the 
canes  help  each  other  upward  and  the  whole  area  is  apt  to  become  a 
moundy  expanse  of  brambles  in  a  very  short  time — which,  except  with  the 
Banksians,  which  are  thornless,  almost  defy  invasion  unless  one  encases 
his  legs  in  lengths  of  stove-pipe.  Narrow  strips  of  prostrate  roses  are 
more  practicable  because  they  can  be  cut  over  from  the  sides.  The  best 
rose  for  a  ground-cover,  in  the  writer's  observation,  is  Rosa  Wichuraiana, 
Its  small-leaved,  glossy  foliage  is  free  from  rust  and  mildew  and  holds  a 
bright  green  color  for  a  long  time.  But  even  this  is  most  satisfactory  in 
borders  and  parkings. 

English  Ivy. — A  plant  found  very  available  for  covering  dry  banks, 
and  for  considerable  areas  also,  in  Berkeley,  is  the  English  ivy.  At  the 
University  they  planted  a  great  deal  of  it  in  such  situations  many  years 
ago  as  an  experiment  and  have  been  so  gratified  with  the  way  in  which  it 
covered  the  exposed  surfaces  and  maintained  its  green  with  a  minimum 
of  moisture  that  at  present  there  is  a  good  deal  of  it  on  the  University 
campus.  Its  color  is  too  dark  and  its  associations  somewhat  funereal,  but 
it  'keeps  down  flat  and  only  needs  water  enough  for  an  occasional  bath  in 
the  bay  climate.  It  is,  however,  shrubby  and  coarse  and  will  not  do  to 
walk  over,  but  otherwise  will  hold  green  where  no  plant  of  a  grass  char- 
acter will  grow  during  the  summer.  It  is  propagated  by  putting  in  cuttings 
about  two  feet  apart  at  any  time  of  the  year  when  the  ground  is  a  little 
moist,  and  they  will  root  readily.  English  ivy  grows  well,  in  the  coast 
region  at  least,  either  in  sun  or  shade — running  under  the  dense  shade  of 
trees  and  climbing  their  trunks,  unless  hoed  out  for  the  good  of  the  trees. 
It  is  apt  to  be  badly  infested  with  the  black  scale  and  may  on  this  account 
be  very  undesirable  near  fruit  plantings. 

Lippia. — This  plant  is  at  the  present  time  the  most  widely  accepted 
substitute  for  a  grass  lawn  and  it  has  many  advantages.  It  is  very  close  to 
the  ground  and  can  be  clipped  with  a  lawn  mower  and  thus  kept  to  uniform 
surface;  it  is  very  drouth-resistant  and  does  not  show  dust  badly;  it 
spreads  very  rapidly,  but  is  not  such  a  pest  as  some  running  grasses  and  is 
easily  destroyed  if  not  wanted  for  it  roots  from  surface-running  stems  and 
does  not  shoot  from  underground  stems  or  running  roots.  It  does  not 
produce  seed  and  therefore  less  likely  to  appear  where  not  desired.  It  is  of 
good  bright  color — superior  in  that  respect  to  the  other  plants  mentioned 


130  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

in  this  connection.  Objections  to  it  are  several — it  does  not  hold  leaves 
after  sharp  frosts  and  the  area  is  left  for  a  time  with  a  dark  stemmy  cover 
during  the  rainy  season;  its  color  is  apt  to  be  blue-grey  instead  of  green; 
the  desirability  of  its  abundant  bloom  is  a  matter  of  taste,  but  it  is  not  of 
long  duration  and  can  be  removed  by  mowing.  Lippia  is  propagated  only 
by  stem  cuttings  or  by  subdivision  of  the  thick  turf  of  roots  which  it  makes. 
The  latter  is  the  easier  way  and  this  method  is  advised  by  John  Swett  & 
Son  of  Martinez,  who  have  made  quite  a  specialty  of  its  propagation : 

"Take  a  lippia  turf  fifteen  inches  square,  and  cut  this  with  a  sharp  knife 
ten  times  across  each  way,  making  one  hundred  small  squares,  which 
is  enough  for  one  hundred  square  feet  of  surface.  Plant  small  squares 
a  foot  apart  each  way,  their  upper  surface  level  with  the  ground. 
When  all  are  planted  water  freely  to  settle  the  loose  earth  around 
the  roots.  Then  keep  the  ground  fairly  moist  until  the  lippia  has 
covered  the  entire  surface  of  the  ground,  after  which  it  will  require  water 
at  only  long  intervals.  While  the  lippia  plants  are  spreading,  weeds  are  apt 
to  come  up  between  them.  These  should  be  pulled  up  or  a  lawn  mower 
run  over  at  short  intervals,  thus  checking  their  growth  until  the  lippia  is 
strong  enough  to  choke  them  out.  Lippia  will  flourish  on  poor  soils  and  on 
moderately  sloping  ground,  provided  only  that  it  gets  enough  water  in 
midsummer  to  prevent  the  ground  from  entirely  drying  out.  It  stands  the 
wear  of  feet  better  than  grass,  and  is  excellent  for  broad  garden  walks, 
under  hammocks,  or  for  tennis  or  croquet  grounds.  When  watering  at 
considerable  intervals,  use  an  ordinary  lawn  spray,  applying  always  enough 
water  to  sink  deep  into  the  ground." 

Flowering  Plants  for  Ground  Covers. — On  the  open  spaces  in  small 
gardens  low-growing  flowering  plants  are  sometimes  effectively  used 
as  ground-covers.  The  writer  has  seen  pansies,  marigolds,  verbenas, 
etc.,  thus  employed.  Those  which  volunteer  freely  from  seed  can  be 
renewed  from  time  to  time  by  raking  off  all  the  old  plants  and  giving 
the  seedlings  a  chance  to  make  a  new  cover.  Verbenas  and  other 
similar  plants  can  be  mown  or  otherwise  cut  a  few  inches  above  the 
ground  to  renew  the  foliage  and  preserve  the  flat  appearance. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
THE  ROSE. 

For  the  greatness  and  the  gladness  of  it  in  California,  the  rose  is 
rescued  from  the  later  chapters  on  shrubs,  trees  and  vines,  although 
the  rose  blooms  on  all  of  them,  and  placed  here,  alone  and  first  of  the 
garden  flowers  to  be  separately  characterized. 

The  rose  came  to  California  at  creation's  noon  day,  judging  by  the 
natural  beauty  and  finish  of  the  three  indigenous  species.  Next,  per- 
haps, came  the  Castilian,  for  the  Spanish  pioneers  could  hardly  have 
forgotten  the  roses  of  Castile  when  making  plant  collections  which 
would  comfort,  sustain  and  perhaps  assist  them  also,  while  pursuing 
their  arduous  task  of  softening  the  savage,  aboriginal  heart.  With  the 
early  American  settlers,  who  came  first  seeking  pelts  and  afterwards 
gold,  and  with  the  people  of  all  nations  who  joined  them  in  the  latter 
quest,  there  came  the  best  roses  the  world  possessed  at  the  middle  of 
the  last  century.  Rose  slips  crossed  the  plain  in  the  old  emigrant 
wagons,  and  planted  beside  the  miners'  cabins  on  the  hillsides  or  near 
the  bars  of  the  rivers,  or  beside  the  first  farmers'  shacks  in  the  valleys, 
grew  beyond  all  measures  prevailing  in  the  places  whence  they  came; 
they  embowered  buildings,  they  laid  hold  on  native  trees  and  shot 
their  streamers  of  bloom  beyond  the  branch-circuit  of  the  pines  or 
garlanded  the  heads  of  stalwart  oaks.  As  residential  buildings  statelier 
grew,  in  the  development  of  the  state,  the  rose  advanced,  clothing  their 
sides  and  softening  their  roof-lines  until  it  would  be  difficult  now  to 
find  a  California  home  or  a  California  heart  which  is  not  loyally  and 
joyfully  beneath  the  dominion  of  the  rose. 

But  the  beneficence  of  roses  in  early  days  should  not  be  forgotten 
in  worship  of  present  supremacy.  It  is  fit  to  tell  the  children  how 
those  cuttings  crossed  the  plains,  cherished  and  kept  moist  all  the 
weary  way  that  the  pioneer  women  might  have  a  reminder  of  home  in 
a  new,  strange  land.  And  how  those  pioneer  roses  reveled  in  the  warm, 
red  soil  of  the  foothills,  and  cheered  many  lives  which  were  full  of 
loneliness  and  longing  and  often  of  deep  disappointment!  With  what 
affection  the  roses  spread  a  mantle  of  beauty  and  fragrance  over  the 
forsaken  ruins  of  deserted  camps,  and  how  they  grow  to  this  day  in 
such  solitary  places  until  their  stems  look  like  the  trunks  of  old  grape 
vines,  but  are  still  full  of  sap  to  push  out  new  wood  and  new  bloom 
aloft — joy  but  to  the  birds  and  the  passing  travelers. 

The  Rose  in  California  Life. — There  are  few,  if  any,  places  in  the 
world  where  the  rose  enters  more  fully  and  constantly  into  daily  life 
than  it  does  in  California.  There  are  many  places  probably  where 


132  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

finer  single  specimens  can  occasionally  be  seen,  for  there  are  people 
who  have  developed  horticultural  art  in  the  rose  more  carefully  and 
generously  and  where  this  art,  and  professional  effort  to  promote  it, 
secure  single  blooms  for  exhibition  or  quantities  of  bloom  for  com- 
merce which  surpass  California  rose  products  because  we  give  a 
minimum  of  attention  to  the  rose  that  way.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
roses  in  common  gardens  and  the  roses  which  break  free  and  surmount 
trees  and  buildings,  making  the  landscape  brilliant  with  their  beauty 
and  the  air  fragrant  with  their  perfume,  are  probably  as  fine  in  these 
ways  as  roses  are  anywhere. 

Some  of  our  engravings  are  suggestive  of  the  rose  as  a  decorative 
plant  for  home  adornment.  It  is  remarkable  how  cheap  a  habitation 
can  be  transformed  into  picturesque  beauty  and  charm  by  the  use  of 
a  few  rose  plants.  These  plants  may  be  allowed  to  run  riot,  and  they 
will  develop  a  wild  beauty  which  is  irresistibly  charming,  or  they  may 
be  carefully  trained  to  carry  bloom  and  foliage  close  to  the  supporting 
structure,  and  thus  preserve  its  outlines  as  the  neat  gardener  will 
prefer.  In  either  case  the  rose  is  willing  and  grateful,  and  therefore 
delights  all  tastes  in  the  gardening  art. 

Another  manifestation  of  the  love  of  the  rose  for  California  is  the 
rose  bordered  driveway,  which  is  so  popular  in  our  rural  and  suburban 
districts.  Here,  too,  the  rose  accepts  the  owner's  desires,  and  will 
make  grand  standard  trees  or  shapely  bushes  according  to  the  pruning 
which  is  given,  or  it  will  rush  into  continuous  banks,  and  by  inter- 
twining take  possession  of  the  whole  roadside  spaces. 

It  is,  however,  as  an  arbor  plant  that  the  rose  comes  most  fully  into 
California  life.  To  live  under  the  rose  is  literally  a  possibility  in 
California.  Under  the  shade  of  the  rose  the  hammock  can  be  drawn 
and  the  table  spread  for  al  fresco  refreshment.  Many  a  rural  table  is 
spread  for  months  on  a  rose  fringed  veranda  or  in  a  simple  arbor 
made  of  poles  to  support  the  masses  of  rose  bloom  and  foliage  in 
which  the  birds  build  their  nests  and  from  which  their  songs  break 
forth  to  greet  the  dawn  or  dismiss  the  evening  twilight.  California 
open  air  life  is  delightful  and  the  rose  is  its  charming  priestess. 

Famous  Old  Roses. — Almost  from  pioneer  times  California  publica- 
tions of  all  kinds  have  given  measurements  of  the  growths  of  rose- 
trees,  rose  bushes  and  rose  vines,  as  to  be  seen  in  different  parts  of  the 
state,  and  the  rosarian,  statistically  inclined,  could  easily  find  data  for 
a  treatise  on  the  subject.  It  did  not  take  the  pioneers  long  to  ascer- 
tain that  choice  varieties  which  could  only  survive  an  Eastern  winter 
with  glass  above  and  steam  below  were  at  home  in  open  air  in  Cali- 
fornia and  reached  a  breadth  and  stature  rivaling  even  that  of  the 
Sunny  South  of  America  or  France.  The  result  was  that  such  roses 
were  early  distributed  in  this  State,  and  each  plant  brought  into  a 


REQUIREMENTS  OF  THE  ROSE  133 

locality  became  mother  and  grandmother  of  a  numerous  progeny 
within  ia  twelve-month,  for  every  fragment  broken  for  a  friendly  visitor 
took  root  and  gave  branches  for  new  breaking  and  new  rooting.  Poor, 
indeed,  has  always  been  the  California  home  which  has  not  its  climbing 
roses  high  as  a  house  and  its  bush  or  tree  rose  as  big  as  a  barn — the 
constant  joy  of  the  resident  and  the  wonder  of  the  tourist. 

Space  cannot  be  given  to  description  of  these  rose-wonders  of  Cali- 
fornia and  yet  the  distant  readers  may  justly  claim  something  specific. 
Let  them  be  content  with  the  records  of  a  Beauty  of  Glazenwood  near 
Los  Angeles,  growing  to  the  top  of  a  eucalyptus  tree  eighty  feet  high 
and  turning  its  support  into  a  colossal  pillar  of  bloom  of  exquisite  rose- 
pink  and  pale  yellow;  of  a  La  Marque  at  Santa  Clara  encompassing 
sides  and  roof  of  a  cottage  to  an  area  which  may  be  inferred  from  the 
measurement  of  its  main  stem,  which  was  forty-four  inches  in  cir- 
cumference just  above  the  ground.  And  to  these  may  be  added  the 
fuller  details  of  a  rose  bush  at  Ventura  three  feet  in  circumference  at 
the  ground.  The  first  branch,  which  juts  out  at  a  height  of  about  four 
feet  from  the  ground,  is  eight  inches  in  diameter.  It  was  planted  in 
1876  from  a  slip  obtained  at  the  Centennial  Exhibition,  and,  although 
several  wagon-loads  of  limbs  are  annually  pruned  off,  it  now  covers 
an  area  of  nearly  2000  square  feet. 

Requirements  of  the  Rose. — The  rose  is  a  very  grateful  plant  in 
California.  In  all  parts  of  the  State  it  finds  conditions  to  its  liking. 
It  makes  glorious  growth  by  the  seashore,  in  the  coast  valleys,  in  the 
great  interior  valley,  in  the  foothills  of  the  Sierra,  and  it  goes  up  the 
mountain  sides,  thriving  at  as  great  an  elevation  as  permanent  habita- 
tions have  yet  been  carried.  It  accepts  all  wholesome  soils,  from 
heavy  clay  to  light  loam,  providing  it  can  find  an  adequate  degree  of 
moisture  and  it  endures  hardships  during  the  dry  season  to  break 
forth  into  the  gladness  of  the  California  winter  during  which  it  makes 
a  grand  bloom,  maintaining  it  into  the  early  summer  without  aid  from 
the  grower,  or  receiving  such  help  in  irrigation  will  either  reward  it 
by  continuous  bloom,  or,  taking  a  brief  rest  in  midsummer,  will  break 
forth  into  a  new  spring-like  bloom  in  the  delicious  autumn  days. 

But  though  the  rose  will  do  this  for  itself,  and  almost  by  itself,  it 
ill  befits  California  hospitality  to  place  such  stress  upon  it.  It  is  more 
easy  to  grow  great  roses  on  the  heavier  rather  than  the  lighter  loams, 
and  easier  to  improve  a  clay  toward  the  loam  type,  as  is  discussed  in 
detail  in  Chapter  III,  than  to  get  such  degree  of  firmness  and  retentive- 
ness  as  the  rose  enjoys  in  the  sandier  soils  and  yet  these,  too,  are 
capable  of  sustaining  grand  rose  plants  with  generous  use  of  well- 
rotted  cow  manure  and  water.  Perhaps  the  amateur  should  remember 
that  the  rose,  more  than  many  other  flowers,  depends  upon  what  he 
does  for  it,  generously  and  intelligently. 


134  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

PROPAGATION  OF  THE  ROSE. 

Except  for  origination  of  new  varieties,  the  rose  is  seldom  grown 
from  seed.  It  is  usually  rather  difficult  to  start  a  rose  plant  from  seed 
and  one  must  not  be  impatient  over  its  delay.  Sometimes  it  takes  a 
year  or  more  and  a  good  way  to  wait  is  to  mix  the  seed  after  taking 
out  of  the  hip  or  "rose  apple,"  when  it  is  fully  mature,  and  mix  it  with 
sand  in  a  flat  (see  Chapter  VII)  and  keep  the  box  in  the  cold  frame  or 
on  the  greenhouse  bench,  where  it  will  get  a  spray  once  in  a  while  to 
keep  the  sand  moist  but  not  wet.  Examine  from  time  to  time  after  a 
few  months  and  sow  the  seed  as  it  begins  to  germinate.  When  the 
plants  begin  to  bloom  you  will  think  you  are  entertaining  the  whole 
rose  family. 

Practically  all  rose  plants  are  grown  from  cuttings,  which  grow 
readily  both  as  hard  iand  soft-wood  cuttings,  and  each  class  is  to  be 
treated  somewhat  differently,  as  suggested  in  Chapter  VIII.  Soft- 
wood cuttings  in  the  case  of  the  rose  are  firmer  and  more  woody  than 
those  taken  from  herbaceous  plants  and  do  not  require  so  much  heat 
and  moisture.  In  fact  all  rose  cuttings  are  fibrous;  if  they  should  be 
distinguished  as  growing  and  dormant  wood  the  terms  would  be 
better  than  to  call  them  soft  and  hard. 

Growing  Prom  Short  Cuttings. — The  millions  of  little  rose  plants 
which  go  by  mail  are  started  in  sand  beds  in  propagating  houses  with 
very  gentle  heat.  Since  parcels  post  has  prevailed  there  is  more  traffic 
in  the  stronger  plants  grown  with  less  heat,  or  often  in  California  with 
no  artificial  heat  at  all,  from  larger  cuttings.  The  short  cuttings  are 
made  from  small  new  wood,  with  removal  of  leaves  only  from  the  part 
which  is  to  go  below  ground.  Three  inches  is  about  the  right  length — 
one  eye  beneath  the  sand  and  two  above.  It  is  claimed  that  the  leaves 
should  remain  on  the  cutting  to  shade  the  eye  and  to  prevent  the  eye 
from  making  too  rapid  growth  before  the  roots  are  well  formed.  Some- 
times a  cutting  will  put  out  a  fine  top  growth  and  in  ten  or  fifteen 
days  gradually  damp  off,  and  the  cutting  has  rotted.  In  some  cases 
this  is  because  the  cutting  is  too  pithy  or  the  eye  has  been  too  ad- 
vanced. Rose  cuttings  can  be  propagated  any  time  from  July  till 
February.  The  safest  time  is  after  October,  as  the  cooler  months  are 
more  desirable.  Great  care  must  be  used  in  propagating  during  the 
hot  months. 

The  sand  boxes  of  small  cuttings  will  sometimes  bring  good  results 
in  a  sheltered,  warm  spot  in  the  open  air,  but  the  cold  frame  or  the 
green  house  bench  is  a  better  place  for  them.  The  sand  can  be  more 
easily  kept  damp,  not  alternately  dry  and  wet,  under  cover.  When 
the  plants  show  by  their  enduring  growth  that  they  have  rooted  they 
can  be  gently  lifted  out  of  the  sand  with  their  long  thread-like  roots 
and  potted  in  a  good  soil  mixture  or  even  set  in  open  ground  if  soil 


ROSES  FROM  CUTTINGS  135 

and  temperature  are  right.  A  shift  or  two  before  setting  in  the  open 
is,  however,  desirable. 

Growing  From  Long  Cuttings. — The  growing  of  roses  from  long 
cuttings  of  dormant  wood  is  according  to  the  suggestions  made  in 
detail  in  Chapter  VIII.  Cuttings  are  preferably  made  of  straight,  well 
matured  shoots  of  the  last  growth,  although  others,  even  of  old  stems, 
will  often  grow  well.  The  cuttings  should  be  about  six  inches  in 
length,  from  a  quarter  to  half  an  inch  in  thickness  and  if  sprouting 
from  below  ground  is  not  desired  the  buds  from  the  lower  part  of  the 
cutting  may  be  pinched  out.  This  will  retard  sprouting,  though  not 
wholly  prevent  it,  for  latent  buds  are  apt  to  be  developed.  These  cut- 
tings may  be  planted  in  the  open  where  bushes  are  desired,  during  the 
early  part  of  the  rainy  season,  when  the  soil  is  right.  In  such  rough 
work  it  is  a  surety  of  getting  a  plant  to  plant  four  or  five  cuttings 
where  the  plant  is  wanted.  Some  growers  are  sure  that  cuttings  "like 
company,"  and  most  of  them  are  almost  sure  to  grow.  The  surplus 
plants,  if  any,  can  be  transplanted.  In  such  a  case,  as  in  all  handling 
of  cuttings,  the  planting  should  be  done  with  a  dibble  or  trowel  and 
the  cutting  carefully  set  with  the  earth  firmed  into  close  contact  with 
the  base  of  it.  Rose  cuttings  will  often  grow  if  simply  pushed  into 
the  soil,  but  if  this  requires  force  it  is  apt  to  upset  the  cambrium  layer 
and  callusing  becomes  thereby  more  difficult.  Therefore  cuttings 
should  be  planted  and  not  "stuck  into  the  ground." 

To  secure  a  clean-cut  base;  to  secure  also  the  "company"  advantage, 
if  there  is  anything  in  that,  and  to  serve  convenience  in  keeping  every- 
thing in  good  order,  the  cuttings  should  be  carefully  planted  in  a 
trench,  as  shown  by  the  figure  in  Chapter  VIII,  which  also  shows  what 
a  good  hardwood  cutting  looks  like.  Planting  in  a  trench  enables  you 
to  see  just  how  the  cuttings  are  set — that  they  are  not  hanging  in  an 
air-cell  and  that  the  soil  is  firm  at  the  point  where  the  roots  will  start, 
viz.:  from  the  callus  which  will  form  at  the  cut  end.  After  the  cuttings 
are  set  and  the  trench  filled,  with  the  soil  loose  near  the  surface,  a 
litter  or  mulch  of  leaves,  lawn  clippings,  or  a  covering  of  sand  will 
keep  the  surface  from  too  great  compacting  by  rain  or  sprinkling  and 
subsequent  drying,  baking  or  cracking  by  sun-heat  or  dry  air.  Usually 
the  amateur  can  get  all  the  rose  plants  he  desires  by  reasonably  fol- 
lowing these  suggestions.  From  such  cuttings  set  in  the  autumn  or 
early  winter,  one  is  apt  to  get  blooms  in  May  and  a  good  sized  bush 
for  transplanting  in  a  year  from  starting.  If  it  is  desired  to  develop 
the  growth  from  one  bud  and  escape  shoots  from  below,  all  buds  below 
the  top  one  should  be  cut  out  before  planting. 

Rose  Cuttings  Wrong-End  Up. — All  that  has  been  said  refers  to 
planting  cuttings  right-end  up:  just  as  they  grew  and  are  expected  to 
grow.  To  get  the  highest  percentage  of  success  with  cuttings  and 


136  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

to  help  those  which  do  not  root  readily,  it  may  be  desirable  to  cover 
them  in  for  a  time,  wrong-end  up.  To  understand  this  practice  it 
must  be  remembered  that  the  root  starts  from  a  callus;  that  a  callus  is 
developed  from  the  exposed  cambium;  that  the  activity  of  the  cam- 
bium, in  forming  new  cells  to  compose  the  callus,  is  dependent  upon 
the  right  degree  of  heat  in  the  soil;  that  this  heat  is  found,  in  the  Cali- 
fornia winter  sunshine  near  the  surface  of  the  soil,  while  a  few  inches 
below  the  soil  may  be  cold  and  wet  and  right  to  encourage  continued 
dormancy  in  the  cutting.  To  bring  the  lower  end  of  the  cutting  into 
a  soil-warmth  which  will  encourage  callusing  and  root-formation, 
therefore,  the  cuttings  may,  to  advantage,  be  placed  bottom-end  up- 
wards— for  temporary  development,  not,  of  course,  for  top-growth. 
In  a  hot  bed  or  a  green  house  with  bottom  heat,  this  condition  does 
not  prevail  and  cuttings  are  set  right  end  up  because  the  bottom  heat 
makes  the  lower  layer  of  the  soil  warmer  than  the  upper. 

This  treatment  of  rose  cuttings  in  a  callusing  bed  before  planting 
in  rows  for  rooting  has  been  described  in  detail  by  Mr.  Luther  Bowers 
of  Santa  Clara  County,  in  this  way: 

"I  gathered  the  cuttings  during  the  Christmas  holidays,  taking  only 
the  last  season's  growth,  and,  if  possible,  the  growth  next  to  the  top 
end.  These  cuttings  were  made  as  near  6  inches  long  as  possible. 
The  base  or  lower  end  was  cut  off  just  below  a  bud  and  as  close  to  the 
bud  as  possible  without  injuring  it,  and  the  top  was  cut  off  just  above 
the  bud,  so  as  to  have  the  cutting  as  near  6  inches  long  as  possible. 
I  then  tied  the  cuttings  up  in  bundles  of  twenty-five  or  fifty  each,  using 
fine  copper  wire  or  willow — something  that  would  not  rot  or  rust.  Iron 
or  galvanized  wire  will  not  do,  as  it  will  ruin  the  cuttings  wherever 
it  touches  them.  The  bundles  should  not  be  too  tight,  but  just  tight 
enough  so  that  none  of  the  cuttings  will  slip  out.  I  put  on  each 
bundle  a  label  made  of  a  piece  of  sheet  zinc  and  the  name  written 
with  a  common  lead  pencil  (which  will  last  for  years  under  ground). 

"I  dug  out  a  place,  where  no  water  would  stand  after  a  heavy  rain, 
to  a  depth  of  eight  inches  and  made  the  bottom  perfectly  level,  and 
I  then  put  in  a  12-inch  board  on  each  side  and  had  >a  box  12  inches  deep 
without  top  or  bottom,  ten  feet  long  and  four  feet  wide.  In  the  bottom 
of  this  box  I  put  three  inches  of  sand — very  fine.  I  then  put  in  my 
cuttings,  standing  them  up  in  the  sand  so  that  they  were  at  least  three 
inches  from  either  side  or  end,  and  just  three  inches  from  the  top. 
These  cuttings  were  all  put  in  upside  down.  The  bundles  should  not 
touch  one  another.  The  same  kind  of  very  fine  sand  was  then  filled  in 
and  around  and  all  over  the  cuttings,  giving  about  three  inches  of  sand 
above  the  ends  of  the  cuttings.  This  bed  of  cuttings  I  never  let  get 
dry,  neither  did  I  keep  it  too  wet,  by  covering  the  whole  with  one 


BUDDING  AND  GRAFTING  ROSES  137 

thickness  of  burlap.  This  will  prevent  evaporation  and  hold  the 
moisture. 

"After  the  ends  of  the  inverted  cuttings  were  w£ll  callused  and 
were  making  fine  rootlets  nicely  they  were  taken  up,  separated  care- 
fully and  planted  in  a  hotbed.  To  begin  putting  in  the  bed,  a  wall  of 
sand  should  be  placed  at  one  end;  the  sand  should  be  moist  enough 
to  stand.  Place  the  cuttings  in  natural  position  3  inches  apart; 
again  wall  up  the  sand,  then  another  row  of  cuttings.  Where  room  was 
scarce,  I  have  placed  the  cuttings  as  close  as  1%  inches  and  the  rows 
only  2  inches  apart.  When  I  have  a  section  planted  I  give  a  good 
soaking  and  put  the  cover  on. 

"The  cover  for  this  rooting  hot-bed,  which  was  made  6x16  feet, 
was  made  with  cloth  house-lining.  Cut  the  cotton  6  feet  8  inches, 
sew  it  the  short  way,  tack  one  side  to  back  of  bed  and  the  other  side 
to  a  1  x  3-inch  strip  16  feet  long.  This  can  be  rolled  up  and  the  strip 
will  hold  the  cloth  in  place  against  the  wind. 

"The  same  plan  can  be  followed  in  a  small  way,  and  if  pains  are 
taken  the  hotbed  can  be  dispensed  with  and  the  cuttings  can  be  taken 
from  the  callusing  bed  and  planted  in  rows  in  the  open  ground.  In 
this  case  when  placed  in  the  callusing  bed  they  should  be  set  in  rows 
singly  and  not  over  2  inches  of  sand  should  cover  them,  and  they  can 
be  left  a  little  longer.  The  soil  where  they  are  planted  should  be  very 
rich  with  cow  manure,  well  prepared,  and  several  times  worked  at 
least  one  month  before  wanted,  and  the  soil  kept  very  fine.  Or,  if  one 
should  want  to  use  a  hotbed,  take  the  cotton  lining  of  a  sugar  sack 
and  make  a  hotbed  just  5  inches  narrower  each  way  than  the  cloth  is 
when  opened.  Tack  one  side  to  the  top  and  tack  the  other  side  to  a 
strip  or  old  curtain  pole  or  broomstick  to  roll  on.  A  bed  of  this  size 
will  hold  100  plants.  If  directions  are  followed  not  5%  will  fail  to 
grow." 

Mr.  Bowers'  careful  method  is  given  with  much  detail  not  only  be- 
cause it  will  give  good  results  with  roses  which  are  rather  hard  to 
start,  like  Perle  des  Jardin,  Marechal  Neil,  Lamarque,  La  France, 
Baroness  Rothschild,  Mabel  Morrison,  Mad.  Gabriel  Luizet,  etc.,  but 
because  it  is  available  for  all  kinds  of  hard  wood  cuttings,  which  need 
promotive  treatment,  and  becomes,  in  that  way,  supplementary  to  the 
discussions  in  Chapter  VIII. 

Budding  and  Grafting  Roses. — The  rose  can  be  very  easily  either 
budded  or  grafted  by  any  of  the  simple  methods  described  and  illus- 
trated in  Chapter  VIII.  Budding  is  the  method  generally  employed 
and  it  can  be  successfully  done  all  through  the  active  growing  season 
of  the  rose  whenever  you  can  find  the  bark  lifting  well  and  well-formed 
buds  to  put  in.  If  there  is  any  "best  time"  it  is  after  the  spring  bloom, 
as  soon  as  the  buds  below  the  bloom  are  plumped  out  well  and  before 


138  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

they  break  into  lateral  shoots.  You  can  tie  with  rafia,  but  any  soft 
cotton  string  or  yarn  works  well.  Of  course  no  wax  is  necessary.  In 
about  two  weeks,  or  when  the  bud  shows  signs  of  growth,  cut  the 
string  on  the  opposite  side  from  the  bud.  The  top  of  the  stock  can  be 
cut  off  or  bent  over,  leaving  two  or  more  eyes,  as  it  is  usually  claimed 
to  help  draw  up  the  sap  and  nourish  the  new  bud.  Our  notion  is,  how- 
ever, that  the  gradual  removal  of  the  top  is  to  reduce  the  sap  pressure 
of  the  old  stem  until  the  bud  makes  growth  enough  to  take  it  all;  for 
we  have  seen  buds  "drowned  out"  by  bursting  sap.  However  that  may 
be,  it  is  a  good  practice  not  to  cut  back  too  sharply  at  first,  if  you  are 
putting  buds  into  a  very  strong  old  plant. 

Grafting  can  be  done  in  the  root,  at  the  root  crown,  or  at  any  point 
above  where  the  stem  is  hard  enough  to  hold  the  scion  well.  Grafting 
methods  are  also  explained  in  Chapter  VIII. 

Whether  roses  should  be  budded  upon  a  different  root  than  that 
which  can  be  secured  by  rooting  a  cutting  of  the  desired  variety,  or 
whether  they  should  be  grown  "on  their  own  roots,"  is  ia  question 
which  has  been  energetically  discussed  for  decades  in  California,  and 
the  general  conclusion  must  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  probably 
not  one  rose  in  ten  thousand  now  growing  in  this  State,  away  from 
parks  and  other  professionally-kept  places,  ever  felt  the  push  of  a  root 
other  than  that  which  it  made  for  itself.  The  general  attitude  of  ama- 
teurs seems  to  be  to  discard  the  relatively  few  varieties  which  do  not 
have  appreciation  enough  of  the  good  things  of  California  to  root 
themselves  strongly  and  be  vigorous  in  wood-growth  and  bloom.  We 
have  no  dispute  with  professionals,  who  are  wise  on  stocks,  or  with 
nurserymeni  who  may  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  grow  budded  roses 
largely;  we  are  simply  stating  the  prevailing  amateur  way.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  enter  the  discussion  of  "wild  stocks"  for  the  rose;  the 
amateur  pays  little  attention  to  them.  If  he  finds  a  rose  which  on  his 
place  is  a  poor  grower,  but  too  good  to  throw  away,  he  simply  buds  it 
upon  any  surplus  bush  he  may  have,  of  a  strong  growing  kind,  and 
generally  he  gets  satisfaction.  Really,  we  never  could  see  why  a 
California  amateur,  growing  roses  in  the  open  air,  need  to  go  hunting 
brambles  and  briers,  which  usually  do  not  get  half  the  size  and  vigor 
of  scores  of  our  own-rooted,  improved  roses.  Why  should  he  seek 
thirstingly  for  a  suckering,  rusting,  short-season  wild  thing,  which 
never  can  grow  higher  than  his  head,  perhaps,  when  he  can  bud  into 
a  Banksian  which  has  run  all  over  his  barn  with  almost  evergreen 
foliage,  free  from  rust  and  mildew,  with  root  non-suckering,  and  wood 
free  from  thorns — or  use  some  other  strong  growers  of  which  every 
rose  garden  is  full  of  conspicuous  examples.  If,  however,  the  reader 
must  have  the  name  of  a  stock  for  budding,  let  it  be  the  old  Manetti, 
the  cuttings  of  which  were  first  imported  from  France,  as  they  are  deep 


ROSE  PLANTING  AND  CUTTING-BACK  139 

rooted,  non-suckering,  and  furnish  a  continuous  flow  of  sap,  which 
many  stocks  from  winter  climates  fail  to  do.  But  we  fear  we  are 
really  arguing  a  question  which  we  decided  not  to  do.  Reference  to 
it  must  appear  again  later  in  connection  with  the  training  of  standard 
roses. 

PLANTING  THE  ROSE. 

Ground  for  planting  roses  should  be  most  carefully  prepared  with 
due  observation  of  the  best  conditions  of  soil  and  tillage  as  described 
in  Chapters  III  and  IV,  and  the  hints  on  planting  in  Chapter  XI,  if 
one  is  planting  strong  field-grown  roses,  which  are  a  specialty  of  Cali- 
fornia nurserymen  and  which  gain  development  impossible  elsewhere 
because  our  growing  season  is  so  much  longer.  Many  carloads  of 
these  field-grown  roses  are  produced  each  year  in  California  for  eastern 
shipment.  The  little  plants  from  small  cuttings  are  grown  under  glass 
and  set  in  the  field  rows.  It  has  been  demonstrated  that  La  France, 
American  Beauty,  Mrs.  John  Laing,  and  other  roses  which  are  very 
slow  growing  out  doors  at  the  East,  and  of  which  it  is  impossible  to 
grow  very  strong  plants  even  in  two  seasons,  will,  in  California,  make 
plants  three  feet  or  more  in  height  in  one  season.  Such  sturdily  grown 
plants  are  as  strong  in  transplanting  as  a  deciduous  fruit  tree,  but, 
for  all  that  they  should  be  well  planted  in  soil  most  thoroughly  pre- 
pared. Such  a  bush,  however,  is  not  so  tender  and  can  be  planted 
through  a  wider  range  of  temperature  than  can  the  little  semi- 
herbaceous  baby  roses  which  come  straight  from  eastern  hot  houses. 
These  little  babies  will  do  well,  however,  if  carefully  set  during  the 
rainy  season  when  the  soil  is  amply  moist  and  warm  and  in  working 
condition.  They  should  never  be  put  into  cold  mud  or  hot  clods. 
They  should  rather  be  potted  and  held  for  time  in  the  frame  or  the 
greenhouse  until  the  soil  and  weather  in  the  open  are  just  right,  and 
if  it  is  late  in  the  rainy  season  or  early  in  the  dry,  they  should  be 
shaded  until  they  take  to  making  new  leaves. 

Distances  for  planting  roses  will  depend  upon  your  available  space 
and  the  effect  you  desire  to  produce.  If  you  want  good  shapely  single 
growths,  either  as  bushes  or  standards,  a  distance  of  four  feet  each 
way  allows  such  development  for  a  number  of  years,  if  proper  pruning 
is  done.  If  you  want  to  produce  a  mass-effect  for  a  maximum  of  flowers 
of  fair  size  and  are  willing  to  prune  constantly  for  new  blooming 
shoots,  they  will  go  for  some  time  at  two  feet  intervals.  For  a  dense 
hedge  we  prefer  three  feet  between  plants,  while  for  trellises,  fences, 
arbors  and  pergolas,  a  distance  of  six  feet  seems  none  too  much  for 
short-climbers,  while  for  our  freest  running  roses  on  arbors,  etc.,  one 
plant  will  soon  cover  five  hundred  square  feet  if  the  canes  are  properly 
laid  and  fastened.  For  quick  results  plants  can  of  course  be  set  closer 


140  .  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

and  transplanted  for  use  in  newer  beds  or  on  newer  garden  structures. 
As  with  most  other  plants,  roses  at  first  are  usually  not  given  enough 
room  for  free  development  and  strength,  for  a  plant  grows  with  the 
sky  as  well  as  with  the  soil. 

As  soon  as  a  rose  is  planted  it  should  be  given  a  certain  amount 
of  cutting  back,  shortening  a  lot  of  side  branches  which  are  weak  and 
unpromising,  to  a  single  bud  near  the  stem,  from  which  they  may  make 
a  new  break;  removing  some  of  the  side  branches  which  may  be 
starting  too  near  each  other  to  grow  well;  cutting  back  near  to  the 
root  some  of  the  main  stems,  when  there  are  too  many.  No  exact 
rule  can  be  given  for  the  number  of  stems  to  retain  at  planting.  It 
may  be  three  if  the  growth  is  strong  and  the  root  large;  it  may  be  only 
one  and  that  shortened,  if  the  plant  has  a  weak  look.  If  one  must  have 
a  rule,  until  he  fully  learns  that  there  really  cannot  be  one,  let  him  cut 
away  half  the  top — if  the  nurseryman  sends  him  the  bush  just  as  it 
has  grown.  Later  he  will  learn  to  cut  back  according  to  the  look  of 
the  plant  and  what  he  knows  of  the  variety. 

CULTIVATION  AND  CARE  OF  THE  ROSE, 

Losing  sight  for  moment  of  the  pruning,  which  will  be  discussed 
later,  the  amateur  should  be  assured  that  he  should  nearly  always  be 
doing  something  for  the  thrift  of  his  roses.  The  principles  and  pur- 
poses of  tillage  as  sketched  in  Chapter  IV  should  never  be  forgotten; 
the  hints  for  work  in  the  different  months  in  Chapter  XII  should 
always  remind  the  grower  of  the  rose  of  something.  Perhaps  the  too 
common  belief  is  that  if  the  rose  is  treated  well  during  the  winter  it 
may  be  left  to  shift  for  itself  during  the  summer.  The  fact  is  just  the 
reverse.  If  the  rose  is  treated  as  it  ought  to  be  in  December  it  can 
almost  be  left  to  shift  for  itself  until  May,  but  from  May  to  December 
it  should  be  almost  constantly  under  treatment.  It  is  therefore  the 
rose  of  summer  which  depends  largely  upon  the  grower's  attention 
and  care.  Without  this,  the  aspect  of  the  dusty  bushes,  with  their  load 
of  dried  bloom  and  foliage  shriveled  with  mildew  or  tarnished  with 
orange  rust,  can  evoke  but  a  single  thought,  and  that  is  commiseration. 
The  owner  commiserates  the  bushes  and  possibly  condemns  them;  the 
passing  rose  grower  commiserates  or  condemns  the  neglectful  owner. 
Plainly  it  is  not  the  fault  of  the  bushes  that  they  have  fallen  into  such 
straits;  how  can  they  be  helped  out  of  them? 

It  is  perhaps  impossible  under  ordinary  conditions  to  obviate  the 
midsummer  droop  in  condition  in  the  rose  garden,  but  it  may  be  un- 
questionably greatly  mitigated.  The  distressful  aspect  of  the  neglected 
garden  can  certainly  be  prevented  if  one  has  a  drop  of  water  more  than 
he  needs  to  drink.  If  he  has  enough  to  wash  himself  in  he  could  keep 
quite  a  large  plantation  of  roses  in  fair  condition,  providing  his  interest 
and  devotion  prompted  him  to  put  the  waste  water  where  it  would  do 


SUMMER  CARE  OF  ROSES  141 

the  most  good.  If  he  has  water  enough  to  flow  in  a  hoe-ditch  or  to 
run  from  a  hose,  he  could  reclaim  his  rose  garden,  if  he  had  the  time 
and  the  will,  and  the  latter  usually  finds  the  former. 

But  though  water  applied  so  as  to  cleanse  the  dust  from  the  foliage 
and  thoroughly  moisten  the  roots  of  the  plant  is  the  chief  essential  of 
midsummer  decency  and  comfort  to  the  rosebush,  it  is  not  the  only 
desirable  thing,  nor  can  it  by  itself  give  full  satisfaction.  The  whole 
year  has  its  successive  duties  which  the  grower  owes  his  rose,  and 
condition  at  any  time  depends  much  upon  foregoing  treatment.  He 
who  prunes  his  bushes  guillotine-fashion  in  the  early  winter,  digs  in 
a  coat  of  manure  and  then  thank  his  stars  that  the  roses  are  fixed 
once  more,  will  get  some  good  spring  roses  on  some  bushes  and  some 
magnificent  blooms,  perhaps,  on  others,  but  some  will  not  bloom  well 
and  all  will  be  in  distress  in  midsummer.  One  heroic  treatment  a  year, 
followed  by  neglect,  will  not  enable  the  rose  to  do  its  best. 

It  seems  to  be  generally  known  that  removing  the  fading  blooms 
will  conserve  the  strength  of  the  plant  and  encourage  it  to  put  forth 
more  bloom.  Acting  upon  this  belief,  some  growers  go  among  the 
bushes,  taking  off  the  old  bloom  as  though  they  were  picking  cotton. 
Others  take  small  scissors  and  clip  off  the  bloom  with  as  little  stem  as 
possible,  as  though  every  particle  of  wood  was  precious  to  the  bush. 
Others  do  a  little  better  and  cut  off  the  old  bloom  just  above  the  first 
leaf  on  the  stem  below  it.  All  these  treatments  are  better  than  neglect. 
They  all  obviate  the  distressful  appearance  of  a  bush  full  of  dried 
bloom,  and  all  free  the  plant  from  exhausting  effort  at  seed  formation. 
It  is  possible,  however,  to  pick  roses  and  to  cut  off  old  bloom  in  a 
way  which  will  maintain  good  condition  in  the  bush,  lengthen  its 
flowering  period  and  reduce  the  extent  of  heroic  pruning  at  any  time. 
It  consists  simply  in  cutting  with  a  long  stem,  the  length  dependent 
upon  the  habit  of  the  variety,  down  to  a  good  leaf  bud,  from  which  a 
strong  new  shoot  will  start.  This  applies  both  to  gathering  good 
flowers  and  to  clearing  the  bush  from  dried  bloom.  When  the  buds 
are  opening  one  at  a  time  on  a  spray,  they  may  have  to  be  cut  with 
short  stems,  but  when  the  last  bloom  of  the  spray  has  come  to  its 
best,  it  should  be  severed  clear  down  to  a  good  bud  below  the  branch- 
ing flower  stem.  If  this  practice  is  observed,  the  bush  will  be  freed 
from  the  mass  of  brush  and  the  hosts  of  weakly  shoots  which  can 
yield  no  satisfactory  bloom.  New  shoots  will  be  strong  and  the  whole 
foliage  of  the  bush  large  and  vigorous. 

A  bush  thus  treated  during  its  winter  and  spring  flowering  period 
comes  to  midsummer  in  far  better  condition  than  one  which  has  been 
allowed  to  take  its  own  course  after  its  winter  pruning.  If,  then,  when 
the  spring  flowering  is  over,  the  bush  be  looked  over  for  weakly  shoots, 
or  for  overcrowded  growth,  and  these  removed,  it  will  be  trim  and 


142  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

vigorous  and  ready  to  take  on  a  new  growth  for  fall  blooming.  With 
its  roots  well  protected  by  a  mulch,  or  by  deeply  pulverized  surface 
soil  and  its  top  thinned  to  admit  sunshine  and  air,  it  becomes  far  less 
subject  to  parasitic  insect  or  fungus.  Such  a  rosebush  shows  its  mas- 
ter's care  and  repays  it  as  only  a  lovely,  fragrant  rose  can  do. 

Of  course  the  writer  does  not  intend  to  convey  the  idea  that  the 
rose  should  be  kept  always  blooming.  Read  the  hints  for  July  and 
August  in  Chapter  XII  on  that  point.  The  rose  is  better  after  a  degree 
of  dormancy  in  summer,  but  that  does  not  mean  distress.  It  should 
have  moisture  enough  in  the  soil  to  escape  that.  The  leaves  do  not 
need  to  fall  nor  the  newer  growth  to  shrivel.  If  the  soil  is  properly 
retentive  and  is  protected  by  cultivation  or  mulching,  the  rose  can  do 
without  water  for  a  time.  One  should  give  the  plants  a  rest,  but  be 
reasonable  about  it.  The  grower  must  soon  learn  by  observation  that 
all  classes  of  roses  do  not  rest  alike.  Some  of  them  sleep  with  one 
eye  open;  others  close  both  eyes  and  snore.  Let  each  rest  in  its  own 
way,  but  remember  that  resting  does  not  mean  drying  up. 

PRUNING  THE  ROSE. 

Some  phases  of  pruning  have  already  been  anticipated  in  the  dis- 
cussions of  planting  and  summer  care  of  the  rose  in  this  chapter,  and 
some  of  the  general  principles  which  one  must  observe  are  suggested 
in  Chapter  XI,  and  timely  practices  are  outlined  for  monthly  work  in 
Chapter  XII. 

It  must  always  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  rose  blooms  upon  new 
shoots;  that  large  roses,  according  to  the  size-habit  of  the  variety,  are 
borne  upon  strong  new  shoots;  that  strong  shoots  come  from  older 
wood  of  good  diameter,  according  to  the  growth-habit  of  the  variety, 
•and  that  shoots  will  be  stronger  if  the  root  has  not  too  many  of  them 
to  provide  for.  Pruning  is,  therefore  a  process  of  forcing  the  root  to 
produce,  not  only  new  shoots  but  strong  new  shoots. 

For  these  reasons,  the  secret  of  having  fine  roses,  after  the  moisture 
and  fertilizer  are  looked  after,  is  to  regulate  the  amount  of  blooming 
wood  the  plant  is  to  carry  and  to  be  sure  that  it  is  all  new  and  strong, 
and  not  too  much  of  it.  This  means  that  there  should  be  continual 
pruning  out  of  old  wood  which  can  only  yield  weak  bloom  shoots  and 
the  clearing  out  of  weak  shoots  when  they  come  even  from  good 
leaders. 

It  may  be  reasonably  contended  that  if  one  grows  his  roses  in  tree- 
form,  it  will  be  easier  to  discern  these  characters  and  to  secure  them 
by  pruning,  and  this  is  one  of  the  arguments  for  growing  standards  or 
small  rose-trees,  because  the  grower  has  constantly  before  his  eye 
the  conception  of  a  small  tree  form  to  be  maintained.  It  is  expected, 
of  course,  that  he  will  not  attempt  to  maintain  this  form  with  the 
hedge  shears,  but  will  maintain  it  by  shortening  in  and  by  choice  of 


STANDARDS  OR  BUSHES  143 

buds,  to  induce  growth  in  whatever  direction  is  desirable  to  occupy 
vacant  space  and  secure  symmetry.  Doing  these  things  which  are 
essential  to  the  growth  of  a  decent  tree  form  also  ministers  to  the 
choice  of  the  best  wood  to  make  that  tree  and  the  rejection  of  inferior 
wood.  If  that  is  done  one  is  sure  to  have  the  best  roses  his  local  con- 
ditions of  soil,  climate  and  moisture  supply  will  allow. 

With  the  rose  in  bush  form  the  incitement  to  this  work  is  much  less. 
The  natural  bush  form  gives  a  very  agreeable  outline,  and  the  tempta- 
tion is  to  let  it  alone  until  it  becomes  a  mass  of  brush,  through  which 
new  shoots  have  to  push  out  strongly  to  get  the  light.  The  plant  is 
allowed  to  carry  too  many  flowers,  and  as  a  result  they  are  apt  to  be 
light  and  small.  When  the  resolution  is  reached  that  the  large  plants 
must  be  trimmed,  it  is  found  almost  impossible  to  reach  the  interior 
except  by  beginning  at  one  side  and  working  straight  through,  leaving 
a  few  good  branches  of  the  more  recent  growth  and  pulling  and  cutting 
out  all  others.  This,  of  course,  restores  the  bush  by  starting  a  fresh 
growth  all  through,  and  it  is  a  good  thing  to  do,  but  it  is  such  an 
undertaking  for  an  amateur  who  does  his  own  work  that  is  apt  to  be 
deferred  for  two  or  three  years  too  long. 

Is  the  Standard  or  Tree-Form  Better  Than  the  Bush? — It  is  indis- 
putable that,  with  proper  pruning,  good  strong  growth  of  wood  and 
large  fine  flowers  can  be  had  with  either  form.  It  has  always  seemed 
to  us,  however,  that  the  standard  form  was  stimulative  of  better  culture, 
but  we  have  to  acknowledge  we  have  as  yet  reached  no  final  conclu- 
sion on  the  matter.  We  began  by  growing  all  roses  in  bush  form. 
After  a  few  years  we  changed  all  strong  growing  varieties  to  own-root 
standards.  Later  we  allowed  about  half  of  them  to  resume  bush-form, 
and  as  they  are  nearly  all  superannuated  now  we  are  planning  to  renew 
the  plantation  intending  to  grow  all  varieties  which  will  accept  the 
treatment  as  low  standards,  just  as  we  do  fruit  trees.  Standards  three 
or  four  feet  above  the  ground  are  far  less  desirable,  in  our  opinion,  than 
those  about  two  feet  from  the  ground.  We  are,  however,  quite  firm 
in  our  belief  that,  except  in  the  case  of  a  few  roses  which  are  notably 
poor  growers  on  their  own  roots,  the  amateur  should  have  his  roses 
on  their  own  roots,  whether  he  grows  them  in  bush  or  tree  form. 
We  have  made  hundreds  of  very -satisfactory  standards  by  selecting  the 
best  shoots  of  plants  grown  at  first  in  bush  form,  and  know  that  it  is 
feasible  to  do  it  in  the  way  which  will  be  described  below.  It  has  a 
safety  feature  also,  because  injury  to  the  stem  can  be  speedily  nullified 
by  growing  a  new  stem,  and  if  one  tires  of  standard  form  he  can 
quickly  restore  the  bush  form. 

Advantages  and  Disadvantages  of  the  Standard  Form. — Many  enjoy 
the  neat,  clean,  tree-like  aspect  of  a  rose  grown  as  a  standard  rather 
than  in  bush  form,  and  are  not  offended  by  its  artificiality.  Aside 


144  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

from  this,  which  is  a  matter  of  taste,  there  is  an  advantage  in  the  fact 
that  a  well-kept,  thrifty  standard  is  likely  to  give  single  blooms  or 
clusters  of  them  which  are  in  size  and  substance  superior  to  those 
found  on  bush  roses.  Sometimes  this  is  due  to  the  fact  that,  in  budding, 
some  roses  are  given  stronger  roots  than  those  which  naturally  belong 
to  them — 'and  this  is  the  chief  reason  for  the  standard,  except  in  formal 
gardening  where  their  form  is  essential  to  the  effect  desired.  But 
aside  from  these  considerations,  it  is  a  fact  that  one  is  apt  to  get  better 
roses  on  a  well  kept  tree-form  than  on  a  well-kept  bush-form,  sumply 
because  there  are  fewer  flowers  for  the  root  to  minister  to  and  it  can 
therefore  force  them  to  fullness.  But  there  are  fewer  flowers  and 
therefore  the  mass-effect  in  less  and  one  will  get  less  satisfaction  in 
cutting  flowers  from  a  standard  generally  than  from  a  bush.  It  is 
also  true,  probably,  that  standard  roses  are  shorter-lived.  Though  the 
head  may  be  renewed  by  pruning  for  new  wood,  the  stem  is  not,  and 
when  tied  to  a  stake  -and  with  the  top  constantly  checked  from  ex- 
pansion, the  bark  sunburned  and  hardened,  the  growth  reduced  in 
thrift  by  bark-binding,  decrepitude  follows.  And  yet,  own-root  stand- 
ards, given  rather  more  fredom  in  top  growth  than  formal  require- 
ments permit,  are  certainly  long-lived,  probably  in  part  because  they 
shade  their  own  trunks  more  or  less,  but  mainly  because  the  plants 
are  naturally  strong  and  vigorous. 

Developing  An  Own-Root  Standard. — The  fundamental  proposition 
in  developing  an  own-root  standard  is  securing  of  a  good  stem  of  de- 
sirable height  and  that  is  the  product  of  a  strong  root,  and  root 
strength  is  in  part  due  to  leaf-action.  Therefore  to  get  a  shoot  of  satis- 
factory size,  one  usually  has  to  encourage  growth  in  bush  form  and 
to  give  the  little  plant  advantage  of  all  the  leaf  growth  on  the  small 
shoots  it  makes  at  first  and  wait  for  the  appearance  of  the  strong 
sucker-like  shoot  which  it  will  usually  make  in  the  second  year  after 
planting,  if  it  is  naturally  a  strong  grower  and  becomes  well  estab- 
lished. Let  this  shoot  grow  unchecked  and  blossom.  Then  cut  back 
to  whatever  bud  below  the  bloom-'head  is  nearest  to  the  height  you 
prefer  as  the  top  of  your  main  stem.  Laterals  will  begin  to  grow  from 
several  buds  just  below  this  point  and  of  these  reserve  three  or  four 
which  are  properly  placed  to  secure  symmetrical  branching,  and  pinch 
out  the  others.  This  will  usually  be  done  in  the  fall  or  winter  pruning 
and  then  all  the  growth  except  the  single  stem  is  to  be  removed  and 
the  stem  itself  tied  to  a  stake  for  support  and  protection.  All  rejected 
shoots  should  not  be  merely  cut  at  the  ground  surface:  remove  the  soil 
and  cut  them  away  cleanly  close  to  the  root  and  thus  remove  the 
dormant  buds  which  are  usually  numerous  at  their  bases.  This  causes 
the  root  to  throw  all  its  force  into  the  single  shoot  which  you  have 
chosen  for  the  standard  and  the  growth  of  its  laterals  is  thus  made 


WHAT  STOCK  FOR  BUDDED  ROSES?  145 

more  stalwart.  Watch  must  be  kept  continually  for  suckers  starting 
from  the  root  and  shoots  too  low  on  the  standard  stem;  these  are  to 
be  removed  as  soon  as  seen.  New  shoots  in  the  head,  or  upper  part 
of  the  standard  may  be  allowed  to  grow  if  such  are  needed  to  give  it 
a  denser  or  fuller  tree-form,  but  after  that  additional  breaks  of  buds 
should  be  rubbed  off,  except  as  needed  for  new  wood  to  replace  older 
growth  in  the  regular  renewal  system  of  rose-pruning  which  has 
already  been  insisted  upon. 

Own-root  standards  'are  naturally  best  of  the  strong  growing 
varieties.  Weaker  growers  which  seem  not  disposed  to  make  long 
shoots  from  the  root  may  be  given  standard  form  by  taking  the  best 
shoot  to  be  found  and  cutting  that  back  to  make  good  bud.  Then  train 
the  growth  from  that  bud  to  a  stake,  clearing  away  all  others  which 
may  start.  This  shoot  may  be  topped,  if  it  reaches  the  height  desired 
for  the  standard  stem,  or,  if  it  falls  short  of  that,  it  too  must  be  cut 
back  to  a  bud  and  trained  to  the  stake.  Such  development  of  a  stand- 
ard by  successive  stem-growths  is  apt  to  give  a  spindly,  more  or  less 
crooked,  stem  and  therefore  it  is  better  to  make  standards  of  such 
varieties  by  budding  into  a  stronger  stem  of  a  good  stock  and  thus 
making  what  is  called  a  budded  standard  rose. 

What  Stock  for  a  Budded  Standard? — We  do  not  speak  for  the 
professionals;  many  considerations  are  involved  in  their  work  which 
do  not  impress  the  amateur.  Our  experience  has  justified  us  in  taking 
cuttings  from  any  rose  which  makes  straight,  stalwart  canes  -and  is 
therefore  a  strong  grower.  Mr.  F.  -C.  Havens,  a  most  successful 
rosarian  of  Oakland,  decided  upon  the  Prairie  Queen  as  the  best  stock, 
after  long  experimentation  with  other  roots.  Certainly  we  have  never 
seen  better  hybrid  perpetuals  and  hybrid  teas  than  he  has  grown  upon 
Prairie  stock.  But  we  doubt  if  one  need  be  restricted  to  particular 
stock.  A  cutting  of  any  strong-growing  variety  will  advance  into  such 
a  tree  with  such  training  as  has  been  described.  As  already  claimed, 
it  does  not  require  a  briar  or  other  foreign  root  to  accomplish  it.  Rich 
.soil  and  sufficient  water  will  make  a  rose  tree  in  California  valleys  or 
foothills  without  recourse  to  hardier  stock  than  most  free-growing 
tea-roses  possess  in  their  own  roots.  Of  course,  to  secure  full-sized 
blooms,  systematic  pruning  and  thinning  of  shoots  and  buds  are 
necessary,  and  yet  rose  trees  left  almost  entirely  to  their  own  ways, 
produce  wonderfully  large  as  well  as  copious  bloom.  They  attain,  too, 
a  self-support  which  makes  a  stake  as  useless  as  it  would  be  to  an 
orchard  fruit  tree.  The  best  demonstration  we  have  in  our  garden  at 
this  moment  is  an  own-root  standard,  Dr.  Grill.  For  floriferousness 
during  a  long  blooming  season  it  surely  is  a  sight  to  behold. 

The  Operation  of  Pruning. — So  many  hints  of  the  practice  of  prun- 
ing the  rose  have  been  given  in  Chapters  XI  and  XII,  and  in  various 


146  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

relations  of  pruning  to  form,  vigor,  blooming,  etc.,  in  this  chapter,  that 
no  connected  discourse  on  the  operation  of  pruning  seems  required. 
The  best  way  to  learn  pruning  is  to  prune  yourself,  note  what  you  get 
and  watch  the  successes  and  failures  of  others.  The  best  teacher  of 
pruning  the  rose  is  the  rose  itself,  if  you  will  try  to  understand  its  sign- 
language.  The  writer's  methods  with  both  standard  and  bush  forms  is 
suggested  by  plates  from  photographs  taken  on  the  before-and-after 
policy  of  demonstration. 

Pruning  According  to  Variety  and  Class.— The  treatment  of  varieties 
according  to  their  vigor  and  disposition  is  a  thing  which  must  be 
learned  by  experience.  There  is  also  a  difference  in  pruning  according 
to  classes,  of  which  the  following  by  Mr.  F.  H.  Howard  of  Los  Angeles 
is  a  very  succinct  statement: 

"It  must  be  remembered  that  different  roses  show  different  char- 
acteristics of  growth,  and  the  operator  must  use  judgment  in  handling 
the  shears. 

"Take  for  example,  roses  of  the  hybrid  perpetual  class,  the 
plants  make  but  a  comparatively  small  amount  of  twiggy  growth,  while 
the  tea  and  hybrid  tea  section  produce  a  great  deal,  which,  unless  re- 
moved at  least  twice  a  year,  simply  consumes  a  quantity  of  sap  with- 
out producing  blooms,  or  if  any  they  are  short  stemmed  and  of  poor 
quality.  In  pruning  varieties  of  the  hybrid  perpetual  class  cut  them 
back  about  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
This  applies  to  plants  of  moderate  size,  say  three  to  four  feet  high. 
Where  they  are  larger  they  may  be  left  somewhat  longer.  Remove 
all  small  canes,  cutting  them  off  at  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  in 
selecting  those  which  are  to  be  left  make  certain  by  careful  examina- 
tion that  the  stems  are  well  furnished  with  plenty  of  plump,  healthy 
eyes. 

"The  hybrid  tea  and  tea  classes  of  roses  are  the  most  satisfactory 
in  blooms,  and  at  the  same  time  the  most  difficult  to  prune  properly. 
To  begin  with,  remove  all  small  twiggy  growth,  pruning  the  plant 
back  to  approximately  two-thirds  of  the  total  height.  Carefully  re- 
move all  dead  wood  and  all  stems,  large  or  small,  wherein  the  bark 
shows  a  tendency  to  crack  or  is  otherwise  in  an  unhealthy  condition. 

"While  it  is  better  to  leave  some  foliage  on  the  pruned  plant,  the 
removal  of  the  greater  portion  will  in  no  wise  injure  it. 

"I  have  often  seen  so-called  gardeners,  and  others,  cutting  off 
suckers  which  issue  from  the  base  of  the  plant  grown  in  bush-form — 
little  realizing  that  they  were  ignorantly  destroying  the  best  efforts 
of  the  plant  to  produce  fine  flowers. 

"Do  not  be  afraid  to  cut  out  all  worthless  wood,  and  with  the  ex- 
ception of  roses  grown  to  standards  with  their  typical  symmetrical 
heads,  do  not  try  to  shorten  -all  the  growths  to  an  even  height  with 


WHY  CALIFORNIA  TAKES  THE  BEST  ROSES  147 

the  idea  in  view  of  obtaining  a  bush  of  rounded  form.  The  new 
growths  which  follow  a  pruning  are  irregular  as  to  height  and  it  is 
impossible  to  keep  the  plant  in  anything  like  formal  shape." 

CLASSES  AND  VARIETIES  OF  ROSE. 

For  the  reasons  stated  in  the  preface  to  this  work,  the  writer  can- 
not enter  into  a  description  of  rose  varieties  nor  need  he  undertake 
discussion  of  the  classification  of  them.  The  amateur  will  usually 
find  in  the  excellent  special  catalogues  of  California  nurserymen,  who 
are  doing  most  with  rose  propagation,  >all  that  he  needs  to  lead  him  to 
growth  and  intelligent  enjoyment  of  the  flower.  These  publications 
will  indicate  the  varieties  of  different  colors  which  have  established 
themselves  in  California  esteem  and  are  therefore  best  for  a  beginner 
to  plant,  although  he  will  be  pardoned  for  dipping  into  novelties  if  he 
cannot  resist  the  alluring  descriptions  given  of  their  desirability. 

In  general  it  may  be  said  that  the  roses  commonly  grown  in 
California  are  the  highest  of  their  several  classes,  including  practically 
all  those  which  are  pronounced  tender  and  delicate,  and  for  which,  in 
wintry  climates,  growth  under  glass  is  prescribed.  The  best  roses  of 
moderate  winter  climates  are  also  grown  in  California.  The  only  ones 
which  may  be  looked  for  in  vain,  except  in  the  mountains,  are  the  extra 
bardy  or  iron-clad  kinds.  Our  climates  do  not  require  them  and  they 
are  therefore  rejected  in  favor  of  roses  of  higher  quality  and  of  re- 
peated or  continuous  blooming. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

THE    CARNATION. 

California  has  always  done  creditable  work  with  the  carnation, 
although  the  growing  of  it  'has  been  largely  restricted  to  the  coast 
region  from  San  Francisco  southward,  where  soil  <and  temperatures 
seem  best  to  meet  its  requirements  as  an  open-air  flower.  It  has 
naturally  seemed  to  associate  itself  closely  with  popular  seaside  resorts 
— both  the  sand  and  the  moist  summer  air  being  apparently  to  its 
liking,  while  the  popularity  of  the  flower,  for  its  beauty  and  its  delicious 
perfume,  appealed  strongly  to  coast  resort-managers  as  an  added  at- 
tractiveness of  their  places  to  those  who  joy  to  linger  by  sunset  seas. 
But  while  these  natural  and  commercial  qualities  have  linked  the  fame 
of  the  carnation  with  that  of  the  coast,  amateurs  in  other  parts  of  the 
state  can  certainly  enjoy  it  if  they  will  make  proper  effort  to  adapt 
their  cultures  to  its  requirements. 

Localities  which  figure  most  prominently  in  the  California  history 
of  the  carnation  are  Coronado  and  Redondo  beaches,  Santa  Monica  and 
Santa  Cruz,  while  San  Francisco  won  carnation  fame  through  the 
achievement  of  Mr.  J.  H.  Sievers  who,  in  February,  1899,  won  the 
highest  award  by  the  National  Carnation  Society  at  its  show  'held  in 
Philadelphia.  Mr.  Sievers'  new  seedling,  which  he  named  "Hannah 
Hobart,"  was  in  competition  with"  and  vanquished  "Mrs.  Lawson"  for 
the  full  stock  of  which  $30,000  had  been  paid  the  year  before,  when  it 
was  the  winner  of  the  highest  award.  The  California  flower  had  of 
course  a  serious  handicap  in  distance,  time  and  the  risks  of  carriage. 
The  flowers  went  by  express.  Fifty  specimens  were  required  by  the 
rules.  Each  flower  was  placed  in  a  separate  glass  tube.  The  tube  was 
fastened  into  a  tin  case  and  filled  with  water.  The  water  was  not 
changed  in  transit  nor  for  the  exhibition.  Mr.  Sievers  preferred  to  use 
the  California  water  because  he  was  afraid  of  a  strange  water  and 
did  not  know  how  it  might  affect  the  flowers.  The  California  flower 
scored  86  out  of  a  possible  100  points  and  was  declared  a  winner.  "Mrs. 
Lawson"  was  thus  beaten  by  a  flower  grown  3000  miles  away.  It  was 
probably  the  most  dramatic  event  of  American  floriculture  and  con- 
tributed much  to  the  prestige  of  California.  Fortunately  enduring 
hatred  was  not  engendered  between  these  two  pink  beauties.  They 
stand  side  by  side  in  the  lists  of  some  California  commercial  propa- 
gators. 

Soils. — Although  carnations  are  worth  growing  on  rather  a  heavy 
soil,  and  some  kinds  seem  to  prefer  it,  the  rule  is  for  light  loams,  even 
sandy,  if  not  in  a  place  where  water  stands  and  if  the  soil  is  made 


PROPAGATION  OF  CARNATIONS  149 

amply  rich  by  well-rotted  manure,  which  will  not  only  feed  the  plant 
but  render  the  soil  better  fitted  to  hold  onto  water  enough  to  make  it 
thrifty.  Though  too  much  manure  and  water  may  induce  too  lush 
a  growth  and  perhaps  increase  calyx-bursting,  which  is  a  capital 
crime  in  a  carnation,  one  should  never  stint  the  plant  with  the  idea  of 
strengthening  it. 

A  specific  way  to  improve  a  sandy  loam  for  carnations,  which  was 
followed  for  many  years  by  an  Alameda  grower,  is  this:  "Use  at  least 
one  part  of  thoroughly  decayed  cow  manure  to  five  of  soil,  and  add  a 
sprinkling  of  'bone  meal,  about  one  5-inch  pot  full  to  a  wheelbarrow 
load  of  soil.  Where  the  soil  has  been  manured  for  years  one  need  not 
use  as  much  manure,  but  add  fresh  builders'  lime  in  about  the  same 
amount  as  bone  meal.  This  is  to  cause  everything  in  the  soil  that 
is  foreign  to  decompose,  and  is  especially  good  for  soil  that  is  too  fat 
or  rich.  It  also  seems  to  prevent  any  green  scum  from  forming  on 
the  surface.  The  soil  should  be  thoroughly  mixed  by  turning  over  the 
pile  three  times  after  the  fertilizer  has  been  added." 

For  carnations  the  soil  should  be  well  drained.  Excessive  rains  dur- 
ing winter,  following  continuous  irrigation  during  summer  and  fall,  are 
very  dangerous  to  carnations  if  the  soil  is  not  well  drained. 

Propagation. — The  easiest  and  surest  way  to  secure  a  limited  num- 
ber of  new  plants  from  an  old  one  is  by  layering  as  described  on  page 
70.  The  best  time  for  this  method  is  July  and  August  in  the  cooler 
parts  of  the  State,  although  it  may  be  done  successfully  at  almost  any 
time  in  this  climate  and  in  warm  places  is  most  successful  in  the  spring, 
while  moisture  is  abundant.  The  layers  will  generally  root  in  four  or 
five  weeks.  The  operation  is  simple:  Select  a  stem  with  partly  old 
and  partly  young  wood;  make  a  slit  with  a  sharp  knife  at  the  base  of 
the  young  wood  upwards,  extending  through  a  joint  or  two,  so  as  to 
form  a  tongue;  peg  down  the  layer  rather  firmly  and  add  sufficient 
light,  sandy  soil  to  cover  the  incision  to  the  depth  of  an  inch  or  two, 
and  keep  the  ground  moist.  When  found,  by  removing  the  earth 
gently,  that  the  layer  has  rooted,  it  is  cut  loose  from  the  old  plant 
and  set  out  where  desired  to  grow. 

The  propagation  by  cuttings  is  practiced  generally.  The  cuttings 
are  made  of  young  wood,  and  long  enough  to  have  a  firm  base;  insert 
them  firmly  in  clean  sand  in  a  seed  bed  or  in  a  seed  box  in  a  cold 
frame,  shading  with  a  cloth  or  lath  cover.  The  cuttings  may  be  made 
with  a  heel  or  cut  just  below  a  joint;  they  should  be  well  watered 
after  planting,  but  too  much  dampness  must  be  avoided. 

Carnation  cuttings  can  be  rooted  any  time  from  September  to  May 
with  good  success.  They  should  be  cut  with  a  knife,  as  tearing  dam- 
ages the  old  plant.  Three  to  four  inches  in  length  makes  a  good  cut- 
ting. Some  advise  to  split  up  the  cutting  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch, 


150  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

giving  more  room  to  root.  Carnations,  after  'having  been  rooted, 
should  be  planted  in  light,  loamy  soil,  well  manured — not  too  much 
water,  as  they  become  rusty.  The  first  flower  stems  which  appear 
should  be  nipped  off.  This  makes  the  plants  more  stocky.  If  you  let 
them  run  up  and  bloom  the  result  will  be  tall,  spindling  plants  and 
they  will  not  produce  as  many  or  as  good  flowers  as  when  headed. 

Carnation  Seedlings. — Carnations  from  hybridized  seed  give  good 
plants  and  if  one  buys  the  highest  priced  seed  he  is  apt  to  get  the 
produce  of  good  selected  plants,  which  makes  the  progeny  far  more 
interesting  and  desirable.  Unless  one  is  operating  in  a  green  house 
carnation  seed  seems  to  start  best  from  February  sowing,  if  the  air 
is  moist  and  warm,  than  earlier  sowing.  If  the  seed  is  sown  in  June 
in  pots  or  boxes,  fine,  strong  plants  can  be  had  by  autumn  and  they 
will  flower  all  through  the  next  season. 

The  late  F.  A.  Miller  was  a  pioneer  florist  of  .San  Francisco  and 
a  fond  grower  of  seedling  carnations.  His  advice  to  amateurs  was  as 
follows:  "Most  of  the  seed  sold  is  not  hybridized  artificially,  and  in 
this  case  no  great  results  can  be  obtained  from  that  source.  Carefully 
hybridized  seed  is  too  expensive  to  be  retailed,  and  can  only  be  bought 
by  the  100  or  1000  seeds.  Any  one  who  has  a  collection  of  good  car- 
nations can  readily  produce  seed,  by  proper  hybridization,  which  will 
give  excellent  results  in  the  production  of  new  varieties,  and,  further- 
more, it  is  one  of  the  most  fascinating  pastimes  any  one  can  engage  in. 
Looking  at  your  flowers,  you  will  find  some  showing  the  pistils  very 
prominently;  these  are  the  pistillate  or  female  parents.  Then  we  find 
others  flowers  which  show  the  stamens  very  conspicuously;  these 
furnish  the  pollen  with  which  the  pistillate  flowers  are  fertilized. 
The  pollen  will  readily  adhere  to  a  fine,  soft  brush  and  is  then  applied 
to  the  pistillate  parent  of  any  other  flower.  If  this  operation  is  per- 
formed between  flowers  of  a  most  contrasting  color  quite  a  variety 
may  be  obtained,  and  if  the  operation  is  performed  between  flowers 
of  the  same  color,  superior  varieties  of  that  color  may  be  obtained." 

More  specific  directions  in  the  same  line  were  given  by  Mr.  C.  J. 
Haettel,  who  grew  carnations  at  Redondo  Beach:  "From  7  to  9 
o'clock  a.  m.,  according  to  the  amount  of  moisture  in  the  air,  the 
flowers  will  be  ready  to  pick  for  the  purpose  of  extracting  the  pollen, 
which  should  then  be  dry.  I  use  a  clean  plate  to  receive  it.  The 
easiest  way  to  extract  it  from  the  flowers  is  to  turn  the  petals  back 
and,  with  a  sharp  pair  of  scissors,  cut  the  stamens  off.  After  all  is 
gathered,  cover  the  plate  with  a  clean  pane  of  glass,  and  turn  it  over 
occasionally,  as  some  moisture  will  collect  on  the  glass.  Under  or- 
dinary circumstances,  the  pollen  will  be  ready  to  put  away  early  in 
the  afternoon.  It  is  then  put  through  a  fine  sieve  and  allowed  to  fall 
gently  upon  a  clean  sheet  of  paper,  from  which  it  is  transferred  to  a 


CARE  OF  CARNATIONS  151 

one-ounce  bottle.  When  we  are  ready  to  hybridize,  we  make  use  of  a 
pair  of  jeweler's  pincers.  With  these  we  extract  the  stamens,  early 
in  the  morning,  before  the  flowers  have  been  fertilized  by  insects  or 
self-fertilized.  A  little  later  we  pass  with  the  pollen  bottle  and  shake 
a  little  of  it  on  the  pistils  when  the  operation  is  complete.  The  same 
method  is  employed  in  fertilization  for  seedlings  of  roses,  gladioli, 
amaryllis,  cannas,  dahlias,  etc.  Use  the  best  flowers  for  seedling  pur- 
poses and  retain  only  the  best  from  which  to  propagate." 

Care  of  Carnations. — The  plants  should  be  well  watered  in  hot,  dry 
weather,  and  if  mulched  with  old  manure,  leaf-mold  or  grass  to  a  depth 
of  two  inches  will  improve  their  growth.  The  buds  also,  when 
crowded,  should  be  thinned  out  as  in  rose-bushes. 

One  of  the  worst  enemies  of  carnations  is  the  gopher,  which  must 
be  killed  if  the  plants  are  to  be  safe.  As  this  is  easier  said  than  done, 
the  amateur  may  want  to  know  how  to  grow  a  few  plants  out  of  their 
reach.  Choose  a  sunny  place,  if  you  are  near  the  coast,  and  make  a 
bed  four  feet  wide  and  as  long  as  you  choose.  Dig  out  the  soil  to  the 
depth  of  8  inches,  the  whole  size  of  the  bed.  At  the  bottom  lay  a 
piece  of  galvanized  wire  netting  (chicken  wire)  with  a  mesh  not  larger 
than  1  inch;  then  lay  a  border  of  12-inch  boards  so  that  the  bottom  of 
the  board  rests  on  the  chicken  wire.  This  gives  you  a  bed  that  is 
gopher  proof  and  will  last  a  long  time  and  will  more  than  pay  for 
itself  in  the  long  run  by  preventing  the  gophers  from  taking  your 
choice  carnation  plants,  for  it  seems  that  they  always  take  the  choicest 
varieties.  Fill  this  bed  with  the  mixture  of  soil,  lime  and  manure, 
mentioned  above.  Fill  it  heaping  full,  for  it  will  settle  2  or  3  inches. 
Work  over  the  soil  two  or  three  times  before  it  is  time  to  plant  out 
the  young  plants,  and  work  over  and  smooth  well  immediately  before 
planting.  The  young  plants  should  be  planted  direct  from  the  cutting 
bed  or  sand  into  the  prepared  bed  as  soon  as  they  have  rooted  strongly. 
Do  not  leave  them  in  the  sand  until  they  begin  to  run  up  tall  and 
spindling,  or  you  will  never  have  healthy  plants. 

The  plants  should  be  placed  one  foot  apart  each  way,  and  should 
be  headed  out  before  they  become  thoroughly  established  to  make  them 
branch  close  to  the  ground.  In  planting  out  rooted  cuttings  from 
sand  let  the  sand  that  adheres  to  the  root  remain. 

Another  back-yard  carnation  arrangement  which  may  become  very 
pleasing  to  look  at  is  made  in  this  way.  Take  an  old  barrel  and  saw 
it  in  two.  Put  the  large  end  in  the  ground  2  or  3  inches,  first  having 
knocked  out  the  top.  Fill  the  half  barrel  up  with  old  leaves,  cow 
manure,  and  loam.  Plant  young  plants  out  around  the  barrel,  say  6 
inches  from  the  edge  and  about  10  inches  apart.  After  the  plants  are 
thoroughly  established,  and  are  in  a  good  growing  state,  give  them  a 
mulch  of  about  one  inch  of  thoroughly  rotten  manure.  After  this 


152  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

whenever  you  want  to  water  your  plants  turn  the  hose  loose  in  the  bar- 
rel. Dish  water  and  water  from  washing  clothes  is  good.  The  car- 
nations will  soon  grow  up  and  hide  the  barrel  and  all  your  neighbors 
will  want  to  know  how  such  monstrous  carnations  came  about. 

Supports  for  Carnations. — Carnations  have  a  way  of  lopping  all  over 
the  place  and  breaking  when  you  try  to  raise  them.  It  is  better  to  tie 
to  a  small  stake  as  they  grow  or  to  make  a  trellis  of  crossed  strips, 
leaving  openings  through  which  they  can  grow  and  on  which  their 
sagging  snoots  may  rest.  But  perhaps  the  best  way  to  keep  a  carna- 
tion bed  looking  well  is  to  be  always  pulling  out  old  plants  and  putting 
in  new  ones  which  you  can  take  from  your  propagating  house  or 
frame.  Keep  your  best  varieties  always  new  by  continually  arranging 
for  a  succession  of  vigorous  youngsters. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

The  Californian  enjoys  marked  advantages  in  the  growth  of  the 
chrysanthemum,  and  can  do  much  in  the  open  air  which  has  to  be 
done  with  artificial  heat  under  glass  at  the  East  and  abroad.  One 
can  infer  this  much  from  the  common  sight  of  acres  of  chrysanthe- 
mums under  a  clear  sky  and  not  a  sign  of  protection,  unless  the  blooms 
are  for  special  exhibition  or  commercial  purposes.  It  is  true  that  it  is 
often  desirable  to  rig  up  a  sort  of  a  fly  of  light  cloth  to  protect  the 
bloom  from  the  excessive  heat  of  the  sun,  which  is  occasionally  strong 
enough  late  in  the  autumn  to  injure  the  purity  and  brilliance  of  the 
bloom,  but  protection,  except  from  heat  or  dust  is  not  thought  of. 
Even  the  latest  bloomers,  which  linger  along  until  midwinter,  do  not 
find  anything  in  the  California  winter  temperature  to  disconcert  them, 
but  freely  display  their  disheveled  locks  even  amid  storms,  bending 
by  their  own  weight  and  that  of  the  entangled  raindrops  and  cast  about 
by  the  breeze  until  they  seem  like  sea  nymphs  vainly  endeavoring  to 
s'hake  their  tresses  free  from  the  gems  which  Neptune  has  showered 
upon  them.  Charming  even  in  such  distress,  and  when  the  winter 
garden  would  be  otherwise  well-nigh  bereft  of  beauty,  the  chrysanthe- 
mum brings  its  marvelous  forms  and  wealth  of  colors  to  make  even 
the  short,  dark  days  delightful. 

But  it  is  the  midseason  varieties,  of  course,  which  carry  the  greatest 
weight  of  glory.  In  November  the  season  is  at  its  height,  and  then 
there  is  seldom  rain  enough  to  disarrange  a  bloom  or  drive  an  admirer 
to  shelter.  The  heat  and  glare  of  midsummer  are  over,  the  winds  are 
resting  for  later  exertions,  and  amid  the  most  delightful  surroundings 
of  warmth  and  quiet  the  queen  of  autumn  displays  her  marvelous 
charms. 

This  exceptional  adaptation  of  the  autumn  and  early  winter  climate 
of  California  to  the  growth  of  the  chrysanthemum  led  Californians  to 
enlist  most  zealously  in  its  service  about  twenty  years  ago  when  the 
'mum  was  the  ruling  goddess  of  the  floral  world.  Though  its  reign 
was  short  at  the  East,  because  its  blooming  season  made  it  practically 
a  greenhouse  flower,  in  California  its  enjoyment  of  the  open  air  ensures 
permanent  popularity.  Its  culture  requirements  are  so  few  to  secure 
garden  plants  of  satisfactory  quality,  the  arts  by  which  the  finest  show 
blooms  are  obtained  are  so  simple,  and  the  extreme  ease  with  which 
the  plant  is  multiplied  and  disseminated,  the  magnificent  mass  effects 
it  produces  in  decoration — all  these  are  elements  of  popularity  which 
will  hold  for  the  chrysanthemum  a  high  place  in  public  favor  in  Cali- 
fornia. 


154  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Chrysanthemums  From  the  Seed. — When  the  flower  was  at  the 
height  of  fashion  at  the  East  and  propagators  were  athirst  to  get 
striking  new  forms  and  colors  for  exhibition  and  trade,  the  fact  was 
demonstrated,  which  from  knowledge  of  the  climate  could  have  been 
easily  implied,  that  California  had  marked  advantages  in  the  produc- 
tion of  the  seed  and  in  the  growth  of  seedlings.  The  demonstration 
came  at  the  Madison  Avenue  Flower  Show  in  New  York  in  1892.  In 
its  report  of  this  display,  the  publication  entitled  "Gardening,"  intro- 
duced the  decision  of  one  of  the  best-known  New  York  growers  in 
these  words:  "My  greatest  surprise  this  year  was  the  California  seed- 
lings. I  tried  only  >a  few  of  them  this  year,  for  to  tell  you  the  truth,  in 
face  of  what  we  have  in  the  East  I  did  not  think  we  could  get  much, 
if  anything  better,  or  as  good,  from  California.  But  see  what  I've  got! 
Aren't  they  beauties?  Rest  assured  I  will  send  for  every  seedling  they 
send  out  in  California  this  season."  These  seedlings  were  so  notable 
that  "Gardening"  gave  engravings  of  eight  of  them.  But  California 
did  not  follow  up  its  lead  in  propagation  and  these  varieties  disap- 
peared. 

There  remains  from  this  experience  the  practical  assurance  that  the 
growing  of  seedling  chrysanthemums  promises  satisfaction  to  the  ama- 
teur at  least  and  that  it  is  very  easy  to  grow  them.  In  fact  they  are  apt 
to  volunteer  freely.  At  one  of  the  San  Francisco  flower  shows  there 
was  a  very  interesting  exhibit  of  volunteer  seedlings  from  a  garden  near 
Haywards  in  which  the  offspring  was  shown  in  connection  with  the 
bloom  from  the  parent  plants.  But,  of  course,  seed  from  the  common 
plants  is  likely  to  give  something  worse  than  its  parentage,  and  select- 
ed plants  hybridized  toward  some  particular  characters  foreseen  to  be 
desirable,  by  taking  pollen  also  from  selected  plants,  constitute  a  prop- 
er basis  for  operations  in  seed  production.  The  method  is,  in  general, 
similar  to  that  given  for  carnations  in  the  last  chapter.  One  can  buy, 
however,  from  the  best  seedsmen,  seed  taken  from  the  best  florists' 
flowers  and  thus  take  a  simple  step  toward  novelties,  if  his  curiosity 
leads  him  that  way.  The  seeds  should  be  handled  according  to  the 
suggestions  on  growing  plants  from  seed  and  transplanting  in  Chapter 
VII. 

GROWING  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  FROM  CUTTINGS. 

Growth  from  cuttings  is  the  universal  way  because  the  plant  re- 
sponds so  loyally  to  the  objects  in  view  and  because  one  escapes  un- 
desirable variations.  There  are  very  many  ways  of  growing  and 
handling  cuttings— each  of  them  leading  toward  definite  and  very 
different  results. 

Chrysanthemum  plants  are  sometimes  left  to  take  care  of  themselves 
in  some  out-of-the-way  place  in  the  garden,  new  plants  being  made 
by  merely  dividing  the  tangled  mass  of  roots  when  the  spring  spading 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS  FROM  CUTTINGS  155 

is  done.  This  is  better  than  leaving  the  old  plants  to  renew  themselves 
by  new  shoots  from  the  old  clumps,  and  will  give  better  flowers  of  a 
size  suitable  enough  for  every-day  house  decoration,  if  the  colors  are 
good. 

Another  way  is  to  take  shoots  of  the  previous  fall  growth  and 
handle  them  as  hard  wood  cuttings  according  to  methods  described  in 
Chapter  VIII.  This  also  gives  fair  garden  plants  which  may  serve  a 
good  purpose. 

But  the  way  to  get  the  greatest  flowers  is  to  work  with  soft  wood 
cuttings  made  from  the  new  spring  growth,  rejecting  all  old  roots 
and  old  wood  and  keep  this  soft  wood  always  going,  by  never  allowing 
the  cutting  to  wilt  and  starting  it  to  making  new  growth  ias  soon  as 
possible  and  keeping  the  wood  soft  and  active  until  the  bloom  is  cut. 
This  of  course  involves  most  constant  feeding  and  watering  of  the 
plants  as  will  be  noted  later. 

As  the  soft  wood  is  to  be  used  the  cuttings  are  taken  later  than 
when  root-division  or  hard  wood  cuttings  are  relied  upon.  Such  cut- 
tings may  be  taken  during  the  whole  of  April,  May  and  June — the 
later  dates  in  places  with  cool  summers.  A  day  or  two  before  taking 
the  cuttings  it  is  well  to  water  the  old  plants  well  if  showers  have  not 
done  it.  This  is  to  make  them  as  full  of  moisture  as  possible  and  the 
cuttings  will  root  better.  If  the  plants  have  thrown  up  lots  of  suckers 
from  around  the  old  plant,  you  can  take  the  tips.  But  two-eye  or  even 
single-eye  cuttings  (if  you  tare  short  of  wood)  will  do  well.  The  two- 
eye  cuttings  are  made  by  cutting  slantingly  just  above  an  eye  or  joint 
and  just  below  an  eye,  making  a  slanting  cut.  Use  a  very  sharp  knife. 
Single-eye  cuttings  can  be  made  by  cutting  just  above  an  eye  and 
leaving  about  an  inch  of  stem  below  the  eye.  They  will  root  in  about 
four  weeks. 

But  tip  or  top  cuttings  are  usually  best  if  one  has  plenty  of  shoots 
to  take  them  from.  There  are  at  least  two  ways  to  handle  them:  One 
to  root  them  in  a  cold  frame,  the  other  to  set  them  at  once  where  they 
are  to  grow. 

Mrs.  S.  G.  Wills  of  San  Jose  advises  the  former  in  these  words: 
"At  some  favorable  time  in  March,  April,  or  early  May — April  is  best — 
break  (not  cut)  slips  from  the  tops  of  the  suckers,  which  come  from  the 
old  plants,  and  pinch  from  the  slips  all  the  leaves,  except  the  bunch  at 
the  end.  Let  these  slips  stand  in  water  for  twenty-four  hours  and 
they  will  absorb  enough  moisture  to  keep  them  from  wilting  when  they 
are  set  out;  then  plant  them  in  sand  in  boxes  to  a  depth  of  about  six 
inches,  planting  them  about  two  inches  deep.  Place  these  boxes  in 
a  sunny  exposure  and  up  from  the  ground,  cover  the  boxes  with  painted 
or  shaded  glass,  allowing  a  good  circulation  of  air  between  the  box 
and  the  glass,  so  that  the  slips  will  not  be  too  much  heated.  These 


156  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

slips  will  take  root  in  from  two  to  four  weeks  if  kept  wet;  the  sand 
should  never  be  allowed  to  dry  out." 

Mr.  J.  Seulberger  of  Oakland  prescribes  the  other  method,  viz.: 
"In  making  the  cutting,  take  the  top  of  a  fresh  stock,  such  as  sprouts 
from  the  old  stock,  early  in  the  spring,  and  allow  a  cutting  long  enough 
to  contain  about  six  eyes,  three  to  be  placed  under  the  ground  and 
three  to  remain  above.  The  best  way  is  to  put  these  cuttings  where 
they  are  to  stay,  so  ias  to  avoid  transplantation.  Chrysanthemums  are 
the  easiest  of  all  plants  to  root  from  cuttings,  and  so  the  beginning  of 
the  amateur's  work  is  made  easy.  Put  the  cuttings  out  in  rows,  about 
12  inches  apart,  with  6  inches  interval  between  the  different  cuttings. 
To  divide  the  old  plants  or  use  root  growths  gives  plants  which  do 
not  produce  good  flowers.  The  sappy  tops  make  the  quickest  growth 
and  the  most  productive  plants." 

With  reference  to  Mrs.  Wills'  'advice  to  break  rather  than  cut,  we 
consider  it  useful  for  the  sake  of  determining  if  the  shoot  is  really  soft 
and  "snappy,"  see  Chapter  VIII.  Mr.  Seulberger's  specification  of 
such  close  planting  has  in  view  the  training  of  the  plant  to  a  single 
stem  bearing  one  flower.  For  common  garden  desirability  we  would 
give  the  plants  greater  intervals  and  allow  them  to  make  more  stems — 
still,  however,  limiting  them  considerably. 

TRAINING  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

The  chrysanthemum  is  more  systematically  curbed  and  trained  than 
any  other  plant  which  is  grown  for  one  season's  service.  It  is  natur- 
ally very  floriferous  and  will  keep  rushing  out  new  shoots  and  develop- 
ing flower-buds  on  them  until  in  three  or  four  months  it  has  assumed 
the  aspect  of  a  large  flowering  shrub.  But  it  will  accept  training  to 
a  single  stem  with  several  good  branches  or  blooms — even  to  the 
extreme  of  growing  one  thick  stem,  three  or  four  feet  high,  and  pro- 
ducing one  globular  bloom  as  large  as  one's  head,  and  it  will  cover  that 
with  a  wig  of  flowing  locks  or  of  ringlets,  if  you  choose  those  kinds. 
This  writer  has  never  done  that  and  so  he  invites  Mrs.  Wills  of  San 
Jose  to  make  the  toilet  for  the  que.en  of  autumn  flowers: 

"When  the  plants  are  well  rooted  in  the  sand  transplant  them  with 
care  into  mellow  soil  and  shade  them  from  the  direct  sun  for  a  few 
days.  The  plants  must  not  remain  long  in  sand  after  they  are  rooted, 
as  they  will  be  weakened. 

Dis-Branching. — "The  plants  will  begin  growing  in  about  ten  days 
after  setting  out.  When  they  are  from  eight  to  ten  inches  high  and 
have  put  forth  at  least  two  pairs  of  leaves,  pinch  out  the  terminal  leaf 
bud.  In  a  short  time  a  branch  will  start  at  the  axil  of  each  leaf.  Break 
off  all  these  branches  except  two  or  three  nearest  the  top.  When  these 
branches  have  made  a  growth  of  five  or  six  inches  and  have  put  forth 


How  TO  GET  LARGE  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  157 

at  least  two  pair  of  strong  leaves,  pinch  out  the  terminal  leaf  bud  from 
each  branch.  Branches  will,  as  before,  start  from  each  auxiliary  bud. 
They  must  likewise  be  broken  off,  saving  one  or  two  on  each  branch. 
This  topping  process  should  be  repeated  several  times,  managing  so 
that  the  last  time  shall  be  during  the  first  half  of  July.  Be  careful  not 
to  have  too  many  branches,  from  three  to  six  at  last  topping.  If  you 
have  been  timely  and  judicious  in  your  topping  your  plant  will  be  about 
twenty  inches  at  this  last  topping.  Let  the  laterals  that  come  after 
this  topping  grow  from  two  to  four  inches  in  length,  and  then  do  your 
last  breaking  out  of  branches.  Leave  none  but  strong  ones,  and  from 
three  to  six  to  the  plant.  You  are  now  deciding  the  number  of  flowers 
you  are  to  raise  to  the  plant,  and  branches  must  guide  you. 

Dis-Budding. — "You  have  now  broken  off  your  last  branches  late 
in  July,  iand  your  plants  now  begin  their  vigorous  growth.  The  strong 
branches  will  soon  run  up  from  three  to  four  feet  high.  During  this 
vigorous  growing  buds  will  begin  to  appear  in  leaf  axils.  From  this 
time  on  success  is  only  to  the  vigilant.  None  of  these  side  buds  must 
be  allowed  to  grow.  Each  branch  will  indicate  its  determined  stature 
by  presenting  at  its  terminal  a  bunch  of  flowers  and  leaf  buds.  We 
are  now  at  the  point  where  skill  and  knowledge  are  most  needed,  as 
well  as  the  greatest  vigilance.  A  little  neglect  at  this  point  and  you 
fail  in  your  accomplishment,  you  will  have  a  large  number  of  flowers, 
but  they  will  not  belong  to  class  A. 

"When  the  little  buds  that  appear  in  a  cluster  at  the  very  end  of 
the  lusty  branch  have  grown  to  about  half  the  size  of  a  pea,  all  of  them 
but  one  vigorous  flower  bud  must  be  broken  out.  How  are  you  to 
know  the  flower  buds?  If  but  three  are  there  it  will  be  the  center 
one.  You  are  likely  to  know  it  from  its  appearance.  Those  green 
leaf-like  parts  that  are  to  form  the  sepals  of  the  flower  are  longer  and 
more  pointed  than  those  on  the  leaf  bud.  Much  care  must  be  taken  in 
this  dis-budding.  The  stems  to  these  buds  are  very  brittle  and  break 
very  easily.  Hold  these  buds  with  one  hand  and  take  a  stick  like  a 
toothpick  and  crowd  off  the  buds  which  you  wish  to  dispose  of.  You 
will  make  some  mistakes  here.  If  you  should  leave  a  leaf  bud  instead 
of  a  flower  bud  all  is  not  lost.  The  leaf  bud  will  make  a  branch  which 
will  in  a  short  time  present  a  terminal  cluster  like  the  one  with  which 
you  have  just  dealt;  then  try  again.  This  breaking  out  of  buds  must 
not  be  neglected  for  a  few  days,  but  must  be  attended  to  at  the  proper 
time." 

Crown-Buds  or  Laterals. — A  question  which  has  always  been  at 
issue  between  chrysanthemum  trainers  is  whether  a  crown  or  a  lateral 
bud  produces  the  better  flower.  Mr.  Howard  of  Los  Angeles  has, 
according  to  our  observation,  the  right  of  it  when  he  says:  "As  soon 
as  buds  are  large  enough  to  handle,  say  about  the  size  of  a  pea,  select 


158  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

one  of  the  strongest  on  each  of  the  shoots  and  remove  the  rest.  It 
is  not  always  advisable  to  leave  the  large  one  at  the  terminus  of  the 
shoot;  this  often  brings  a  coarse  bloom  and  too  early.  A  second  bud 
lower  down,  although  of  smaller  size,  will  produce  an  equally  large 
bloom,  better  finished,  equal  as  to  size,  but  somewhat  later  in  the 
season.  After  the  bud  has  been  selected  keep  all  side  growths  pinched 
out,  the  idea  being  to  divert  the  entire  flow  of  sap  to  one  bud  on  each 
shoot." 

AN  EASIER  WAY  WITH  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

As  there  will  probably  be  amateurs  who  wish  to  have  chrysanthe- 
mums but  cannot  rise  to  the  intensity  of  the  foregoing,  it  will  be  proper 
to  indicate  ian  easier  way  which  will  give  inferior  but  still  gratifying 
flowers.  It  consists  in  working  with  the  old  roots  with  treatment  fitted 
to  revive  and  re-stimulate  them.  Allow  strong  plants,  after  flowering 
to  retain  their  place  until  the  following  January  or  February,  because, 
not  having  strong,  far-reaching  roots,  but  netty,  fibrous  roots,  they 
have  exhausted  the  soil.  This  is  very  difficult  to  replace  even  by  giving 
them  a  heavy  top  dressing;  therefore,  take  them  up,  cut  away  the  old 
stems  and  save  only  strong  single  shoots.  Unless  the  soil  is  very  good, 
remove  it  and  put  in  new  soil  to  the  depth  of  one  foot,  using  one  part 
manure  to  three  parts  of  loam.  Tread  the  soil  firmly  around  the  plant, 
and  when  fairly  started  water  well. 

Of  the  shoots  which  spring  from  the  base  of  each  plant,  select  four 
of  the  large  flowering  variety  and  six  of  the  small  and  single  ones, 
removing  all  the  others.  Stake  when  high  enough  to  need  support, 
spreading  them  outward  to  give  as  much  sun  and  air  as  possible.  Do 
not  top  the  branches,  as  they  grow  best  by  allowing  the  shoots  to 
break  naturally,  selecting  two  of  the  strongest  on  each  stem  and 
removing  the  others.  When  large  flowers  are  required,  allow  three 
stems  on  the  plant  to  produce  a  single  bud  each.  This  is  done  by 
removing  all  the  side  growths  as  fast  as  they  appear  upon  the  stems. 

When  the  production  of  a  quantity  of  flowers  is  the  main  object, 
top  the  plants  when  six  inches  high  and  continue  doing  so  until  the 
end  of  June;  or  let  them  grow  along  to  the  latter  part  of  June,  and 
then  cut  back  to  within  six  inches  of  the  ground,  and  after  that  allow 
them  to  grow  away  at  will,  being  careful  to  remove  suckers. 

FEEDING  THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

Though  the  chrysanthemum  will  do  something  on  any  soil,  it  will 
only  be  great,  either  in  bush  or  in  single  blooms,  when  fed  most  gen- 
erously on  a  soil  best  suited  to  root-action,  as  described  in  Chapter 
III.  Hints  for  autumn  months,  Chapter  XII,  are  constantly  repeated 
for  sake  of  emphasis  upon  their  indispensability.  To  forget  them  is 
to  fail  to  get  all  the  plant  can  do  for  the  grower.  There  are  several 


CARE  OF  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  159 

practical  suggestions  concerning  the  feeding  and  care  of  the  chrysan- 
themum during  the  building  of  bloom,  which  may  be  helpful. 

Perhaps  no  plant  will  show  neglect  more  plainly  than  the  chrysan- 
themum, and  one  or  two  weeks  of  neglect  will  finish  them.  That  is, 
they  will  not  make  large,  perfect  flowers,  even  if  you  keep  up  a  good 
treatment  afterwards.  If  you  let  the  plants  dry  out  at  the  root  they 
become  hard-wooded  and  inferior  flowers  are  the  consequence.  During 
the  early  period  of  growth  the  plants  should  not  be  kept  too  wet,  yet 
never  let  the  roots  get  dry.  After  the  last  topping  water  copiously. 
It  is  well  to  wash  with  the  sprinkler  the  dust  from  the  leaves  about 
once  a  week;  do  this  at  the  close  of  the  day.  Adobe  soil  will  not  stand 
so  much  watering  as  loamy  soil.  Judgment  must,  of  course,  be  used. 

All  plants  should  be  carefully  staked  and  securely  tied  in  several 
places  so  that  there  is  no  danger  of  stems  being  broken  by  the  wind 
or  otherwise.  Builders'  lath  may  be  used,  or  "shakes"  split  into  narrow 
strips  answer  very  well.  The  plants  look  neater  if  not  tied  with  twine 
or  strips  of  cloth.  Strings  of  rafia,  or  a  strip  of  New  Zealand  flax,  or 
of  dracaena  leaf,  as  described  in  Chapter  XI,  are  very  satisfactory. 

Water  freely,  and  occasionally  with  liquid  manure,  which  may  be 
made  in  this  way:  In  a  large  tub  or  cistern,  place  one  bushel  of  soot, 
tied  securely  in  a  thin  bag,  and  one  barrelful  each  of  fresh  cow  and 
horse  manure;  fill  with  soft  water.  Dilute  to  the  color  of  weak  tea. 
Occasionally  give  them  a  change  of  weak  poultry-manure  water.  Arti- 
ficial fertilization  should  be  kept  up  at  intervals  of  a  week  and  stopped 
only  when  the  first  buds  begin  to  show  color.  After  this  stage  no 
fertilization  is  required;  in  fact,  is  injurious,  but  the  water  supply  must 
be  frequent  and  copious. 

Nitrate  of  soda,  as  described  on  page  33,  is  available.  Sulphate  of 
ammonia  is  also  used — commencing  at  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  and  in- 
creasing to  half  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water,  is  safe,  and  may  be 
given  twice  a  week,  or  three  times  to  extra-strong  plants.  This  is  the 
cleanest  and  least  offensive  process  of  manuring  the  plants. 

After  the  Battle. — When  the  chrysanthemum  has  done  flowering, 
leave  the  plant  in  the  place  where  it  grew  until  spring,  to  furnish  you 
with  slips  for  next  years's  growth.  After  you  have  taken  all  the  slips 
you  want,  dig  up  the  old  plant  and  throw  it  away,  for  it  is  of  no  further 
value. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

OPEN-AIR  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS'. 

The  climate  of  California  disturbs  all  classifications  of  soft-tissued 
plants  which  satisfactorily  group  them  in  wintry  climates.  We  can- 
not consider  these  plants  as  annuals,  biennials  or  perennials,  because 
they  will  not  act  that  way  under  our  climatic  conditions.  It  has 
already  been  suggested  in  Chapter  II  that  many  hard-tissued  plants, 
like  trees,  shrubs  and  vines,  seem  to  be  always  trying  to  move  them- 
selves from  the  deciduous  to  the  evergreen  class  and  analogous  be- 
havior is  found  in  the  shiftiness  of  soft-tissued  plants — some  annuals 
holding  over  and  repeating  their  bloom  in  a  second  or  even  a  later 
year;  some  biennials  blooming  in  the  first  year  and  holding  over 
more  or  less  toward  the  perennial  class  and  some  perennials,  not 
only  living  indefinitely,  but  being  active  both  summer  and  winter 
and  even  assuming  something  of  woody  tissue,  which  no  well-behaved 
herbaceous  plant  should  ever  do.  It  seems,  therefore,  that  the  various 
groupings:  annual,  biennial,  perennial,  deciduous,  evergreen,  etc.,  are 
really  classifications  of  places  not  of  plants,  and  we  get  them  out 
of  our  way  by  shipping  the  whole  bunch  to  the  geographer.  The 
flower-grower  in  California  has  very  little  use  for  them.  If,  however, 
he  is  of  enquiring  mind,  he  will  find  food  for  thought  in  the  writings 
of  the  California  botanists  named  on  page  8.  The  study  is  of  the 
individual  plant  and  what  it  will  do  and  will  not  do  and  not  of  a  class 
into  which  some  chilly  climate  has  forced  it.  Therefore  we  place 
all  herbaceous  plants  in  one  group  and  indicate  their  behavior,  so 
far  as  we  have  observed  it,  in  connection  with  the  mention  of  each. 
The  distant  reader  in  a  wintry  climate  can  learn  more  of  the  Cali- 
fornia attitude  of  plants  by  studying  the  behavior  of  plants  in  green- 
houses than  their  behavior  in  the  open  air.  When  he  comes  to 
California  and  sees  the  mignonette  living  and  blooming  all  through 
the  frost  and  even  when  the  soil  is  too  wet  with  January  rains  to 
permit  of  much  outdoor  work,  it  becomes  so  rich  in  fragrance,  so 
fresh  and  daintily  green,  that  one  must  conclude  to  allow  it  to  be 
a  biennial  or  perennial  as  it  lists  in  defiance  to  all  rules. 

Good  to  Begin  With. — ^Undoubtedly  the  most  glorious  display  of 
floral  form  and  color  can  be  secured  for  less  money  and  in  less  time 
by  sowing  herbaceous  plants  in  variety  than  in  any  other  way.  Al- 
though the  best  development  of  the  plant  and  endurance  of  bloom 
is  to  be  secured  by  following  the  suggestions  for  soil,  seed-planting 
and  we  would  not  lighten  at  all  the  emphasis  therein,  it  is  also  true 
that  the  reason  for  the  beginner's  preference  for  annuals,  lies  in 
the  fact  that  everybody  can  grow  them;  that  they  absolutely  require 


PLATE  8:    "Sw^ET  PEAS  LOVE  A  FENCE  OR  Low  SHED" — PAGE  181. 


SOWING  SEEDS  OF  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  161 

in  the  fact  that  everybody  can  grow  them;  that  they  absolutely  require 
neither  glass,  flower-pots,  compost,  sticks  nor  shades,  and  in  Cali- 
fornia places  with  well  distributed  rainfall,  not  even  watering.  Of 
course  these  accessories  add  to  the  beauty  and  length  of  life  of  a 
plant,  as  just  suggested,  but  for  those  who  have  no  desire  to  go  to 
much  trouble  or  expense,  there  is  a  fertile  field  in  the  cultivation  of 
herbaceous  plants,  as  they  yield  abundant  satisfaction  for  a  minimum 
of  labor.  Then,  another  consideration  is  their  cheapness;  it  is  simply 
marvelous  to  see  how  much  can  be  grown  from  a  dollar's  worth  of 
seeds  and  what  an  endless  amount  of  pleasure  will  be  found  in  the 
truly  beautiful  display.  In  a  very  few  weeks  a  wild  waste  can  be 
transformed  into  carpets  of  flowers. 

But  though  the  beginner  is  urged  to  take  to  these  plants  for  joy 
and  floral  education,  it  must  be  admitted  that,  after  awhile,  many  will 
grow  indifferent,  even  in  some  cases  going  so  far  as  to  call  them 
weedy  and  short-lived  things.  So  they  are,  many  of  them,  while 
others  again  cannot  be  surpassed  by  any  other  class  in  delicacy  of 
"beauty,  and  none  can  be  found  that  will  give  such  liberal  returns 
in  gay  display  of  color,  also  in  the  great  variety  of  both  character 
and  color. 

Hints  for  Open  Sowing. — If  you  are  on  a  hurry-up  job,  you  need 
only  break  up  the  soil  with  plow  or  spade,  rake  down  decently  and 
sow  the  seeds — covering  less  or  more,  according  to  the  size  of  it, 
as  suggested  in  Chapter  VII. 

It  is  not  usually  desirable  to  sow  the  seeds  in  lines  or  rows  for 
ease  of  cultivation  as  you  should  garden  vegetables  or  flowers  grown 
specially  for  cut  blooms.  It  produces  a  much  better  effect  to  have 
the  different  flowers  in  groups  or  patches  and  arranging  these  accord- 
to  the  stature  of  the  plant  and  its  colors  which  are  indicated  upon 
the  seedman's  packet  enclosing  the  seed,  as  will  be  mentioned  below. 
An  Oakland  grower  gives  these  pertinent  suggestions  for  defining 
and  placing  the  different  clumps  or  patches: 

"Get  some  long  strips  of  thin  wood  which  will  bend  into  an  oval 
hoop.  Make  several  different  sizes,  as  the  larger-growing  plants 
will  want  more  room  than  the  smaller  ones.  Take  the  hoop  and 
press  down  on  the  soil  so  that  a  mark  will  be  left,  inside  of  which 
sow  the  seeds.  Leave  a  space  between  the  clumps,  if  possible,  equiva- 
lent to  the  width  of  the  hoop. 

"After  the  plants  are  up,  do  not  -leave  them  in  a  crowded  state. 
Thin  them  out  ruthlessly  to  about  six  inches  apart  for  the  small- 
growing  plants  and  nine  inches  for  the  stronger-growing  annuals. 
It  will  pay  to  do  this.  It  looks  like  waste,  but  the  final  results  are 
better." 


162  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

If  the  spaces  between  the  clumps  are  kept  smooth  and  clear  they 
heighten  the  effect  and  afford  room  also  to  walk  or  work  among  the 
plants. 

Arrangements  for  Stature  or  Size. — The  arrangement  of  the  groups 
in  relation  to  ea'ch  other,  with  such  wide  interspacing  as  has  been 
commended,  or  the  sowing  of  small  patches  in  a  large  composite  bed, 
should  always  have  regard  to  the  height  and  spread  of  the  bloom 
intended.  It  need  only  be  mentioned  that,  however  successful  a 
flower  bed  might  be  in  other  respects,  if  through  ignorance  or  care- 
lessness the  dwarf  varieties  were  planted  in  the  center,  and  the  tall 
ones  at  the  circumference,  the  effect  would  be  ridiculous.  This,  of 
course,  is  true  of  all  bedding  plants,  but  in  sowing  the  seed  in  the 
beds  in  which  they  are  to  flower,  it  is  much  more  likely  to  be  over- 
looked than  in  that  of  summer  bedders  which  are  planted  out  from 
the  pots  or  from  seed  boxes. 

Arrangement  for  Color  Effects. — A  very  good  suggestion  on  this 
point  was  given  some  time  ago  by  Mr.  Franklyn,  formerly  of  Los 
Angeles:  "When  colors  are  planted  separately,  and  intended  to  form 
a  design  however  simple,  always  plant  the  individual  colors  in  suffi- 
ciently large  masses,  especially  when  the  plants  are  inclined  to  be 
tall,  the  stems  weak  and  the  flower  heads  large.  Otherwise  the  bed 
is  liable  to  become  a  mixed  one.  Take  for  instance,  the  larger  varieties 
of  Phlox,  planted  in  narrow  concentric  circles.  The  weight  of  the 
blooms  will  cause  the  stems  to  decline  from  the  perpendicular;  when 
the  pink  will  become  mixed  with  the  scarlet,  the  white  with  the  pur- 
ple, and  the  whole  be  hopelessly  blurred;  while  if  the  zones  were 
wider,  though  the  continuous  edges  might  become  more  or  less  inter- 
mixed, the  general  effect  would  be  preserved.  In  arranging  for  color 
effects,  use  solid  colors.  Flowers  with  spots,  stripes,  etc.,  are  often 
very  pleasing  when  we  have  time  to  examine  them  individually;  but 
as  effective  bedding  plants  they  are  often  a  failure.  What  can  be 
richer  than  a  mass  of  nearly  black  flowers  brought  into  contrast 
with  golden  or  yellow;  or  what  more  chaste  and  pretty  than  a  sky- 
blue  in  company  with  a  pure  white?" 

Coincidence  of  Bloom. — Mr.  Franklyn  continues:  "Perhaps  the 
most  important  of  these  considerations  is  the  one  which  relates  to 
a  simultaneousness  of  flowering.  Nothing  can  be  more  exasperating, 
after  having  planned  a  gorgeous  effect,  than  to  see  it  produced  in 
installments,  one  part  beginning  to  flower  after  another  has  ripened 
its  seed.  In  order  to  avoid  such  a  calamity,  it  is  advisable  to  plant 
in  the  same  bed,  or  group  of  beds,  different  species  of  the  same  genus 
only,  or,  better  still,  different  varieties  of  the  same  species.  In  the 
latter  case  at  any  rate  they  will  be  sure  to  flower  simultaneously.  It 
is  obvious  from  the  above  remarks,  that  in  producing  the  best  results 
with  annuals,  a  previous  acquaintance  with  them  is  very  helpful." 


WHEN  TO  START  ANNUALS  AND  PERENNIALS  163 

It  is,  of  course,  impossible  for  a  beginner  to  reach  the  highest 
effects  in  handling  herbaceous  bedding  plants,  but  suggestions  of 
points  to  aim  at  are  none  the  less  helpful  and  inspiring.  One  must, 
of  course,  know  plants  and  must  be  patient  in  studying  them  and 
discerning  their  relation  to  desirable  mass-effects.  He  must  not 
expect  to  produce  a  masterpiece  by  a  recipe.  Even  in  cookery, 
deliciousness  comes  not  so  much  from  the  recipe  as  from  knowing 
how  to  use  it. 

When  to  Start  These  Plants. — But,  though  some  of  the  things  just 
mentioned  belong  to  the  higher  art  of  the  amateur  which  must  be 
attained  by  effort,  there  is  one  thing  which  a  beginner  can  strike 
aright  from  the  first,  and  that  is  starting  early  and  keeping  right 
at  it  in  growing  herbaceous  plants  in  this  favoring  climate.  Read 
again  the  references  to  the  double  springtime  of  California  on  pages 
96  and  107 — in  fact,  the  suggestions  for  work  in  all  the  months  in 
Chapter  XII.  One  ought  then  to  be  convinced  that  the  time  to  start 
plants,  except  a  few  tender  ones,  is  during  the  autumn  and  winter 
and  not  in  the  springtime  of  wintry  climates.  Remember  that  the 
longer  time  the  plants  grow  and  spread  before  flowering,  the  finer 
will  be  the  flower.  One  great  secret  in  securing  fine  blooms  is  to 
encourage  each  separate  plant  to  make  as  much  growth  as  possible 
before  it  begins  to  flower.  Late-sown  seeds  are  hurried  into  blossom 
by  the  increasing  heat  before  a  good-sized  plant  is  formed,  and  are 
not  therefore  so  satisfactory.  There  is  no  fear  of  cold  weather 
affecting  the  seed  sown  early,  for  seeds  of  nearly  all  kinds  remain 
dormant  and  unhurt  all  winter  until  the  genial  sun  calls  them  to 
life  and  action,  unless  it  be  in  the  cold  mud  of  a  heavy,  ill-drained 
soil.  California  nature  indicates  the  true  California  way  through 
early  starting.  It  is  a  common  observation  that  self-grown  coreopsis, 
sweet  pea,  godetia,  nasturtium,  eschscholtzia,  dianthus,  larkspurs, 
corn  flower,  nemophila,  etc.,  are  found  in  the  walks  and  corners, 
having  started  with  the  fall  rains  and,  unless  they  will  not  endure  a 
light  frost,  establish  themselves  like  weeds.  When  an  unusually  fine 
plant  appears,  it  is  sometimes  transferred  to  a  border  where  it  can 
have  soil,  and  will  amply  reward  by  the  vigorous  strength  of  the 
plant  and  beauty  of  the  flowers,  the  gift  of  an  early  start. 

But  though  it  is  easier  to  start  seeds  early  in  the  rainy  season 
and  get  bloom  during  the  continuation  of  it  and  during  reasonable 
extensions  into  the  summer  beyond  it,  it  is  also  possible  to  start 
again  near  the  end  of  the  rainy  season  with  the  same  plants  and 
have  late  summer  and  autumn  bloom  from  them.  This  requires 
greater  effort  in  handling  the  seed  and  the  young  plants.  It  is  amply 
set  forth  in  Chapters  VII  and  XII. 


164  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Cultivation  and  Care. — All  these  plants  have  been  mentioned  as 
easy  to  grow  if  one  makes  the  proper  seasonal  start  and  as  requiring 
less  care  than  most  other  plants,,  still  it  must  be  insisted  that  the 
quality  and  duration  of  bloom  depend  largely  on  the  cultivation.  For 
instance,  according  to  Shirley  Hibbard,  one  plant  of  Virginia  stock, 
allowed  to  attain  complete  development,  will  cover  more  than  a 
square  foot  of  surface,  lasting  in  blossom  two  months,  while  twenty 
in  the  same  space  will  be  spindling  with  flowers  all  over  within  three 
weeks  at  the  utmost.  Then  by  carefully  removing  all  seedpods  the 
moment  the  flowers  wither,  the  blossoming  season  may  be  prolonged 
almost  indefinitely.  Sweet  peas  thus  cared  for  may  be  in  bloom 
nearly  a  year,  if  moisture  is  available.  By  bestowing  care  and  atten- 
tion,  a  plant  may  be  kept  in  blossom  for  a  long  season,  giving  double 
the  number  that  would  be  given  if  left  to  themselves. 

All  this,  however,  is  more  or  less  dependent  upon  giving  the  plants 
plenty  of  room.  Always  remember  to  thin  out  seedlings  to  ample 
spacing  and  to  give  space  when  transplanting.  Over-crowding  the 
plants  destroys  all  rules  for  satisfaction  with  them. 

Exposure. — Sun  and  shade  are  relative  terms;  for  instance,  full 
sunshine  on  the  coast  may  sometimes  be  cooler  than  shade  in  the 
interior.  For  this  reason  one  .has  to  read  prescriptions  of  sun  and 
shade  for  different  plants,  with  some  reference  to  his  local  conditions 
thereof.  Still  there  are  some  distinctions  which  may  be  widely  true, 
but  realized  in  different  places  at  different  times.  Many  plants  which 
enjoy  full  summer  sunshine  near  the  coast,  resent  its  heat  in  the 
interior,  but  do  enjoy  the  interior  winter  sunshine.  It  is  a  very 
simple  deduction,  then,  that  summer  growth  of  many  herbaceous 
plants  in  the  hot  valleys  must  be  undertaken  in  partially  shaded 
places,  while  in  cooler  situations  they  may  need  contrivances  for 
concentrating  sun  heat  in  the  place  they  occupy.  These  are  things 
one  has  to  learn  by  local  experience  or  observation. 

HERBACEOUS    PLANTS   CHIEFLY   COMMENDED   IN 
CALIFORNIA 

The  proper  way  for  the  amateur  to  arrive  at  a  conclusion  as  to 
which  herbaceous  plants  he  should  grow  in  his  place  and  for  his 
own  taste,  is  to  try  all  of  which  the  seed  is  offered  by  the  seedsmen. 
They  do  not  list  a  seed  unless  it  is  good  somewhere  and  meets  the 
taste  of  a  good  many  people — therefore  the  catalogues  should  be 
secured  each  year  and  carefully  studied.  It  is  not  advised,  of  course, 
that  the  amateur  plant  all  their  offering  at  once;  take  a  dozen  or  a 
score  at  a  time  and  in  that  way  work  down  the  list  until  you  get 
enough  to  occupy  your  available  space  or  to  fill  your  heart  with  joy 
all  through  the  year.  Watch  the  habit  of  the  plant  under  your  condi- 


HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  CHIEFLY  GROWN  IN  CALIFORNIA 


165 


tions;  whether  it  is  thrifty  and  contented  or  not;  how  beautiful  its 
foliage  is;  how  its  bloom  meets  your  notion  of  desirability;  how  it 
fits  into  your  color  scheme  and  what  place  it  will  take  in  the  suces- 
sion  of  bloom  which  you  should  always  work  for  or  you  will  not 
get  all  the  climate  has  for  you. 

But  we  know  the  reader  will  not  be  content  to  have  us  push  him 
off  to  the  catalogues,  so  we  have  made  a  list  from  our  own  experience 
and  observation  and  from  our  notebooks  and  can  name  the  following 
as  the  open-air  herbaceous  plants  which  are  actually  most  favored 
by  California  amateur  growers: 

Ageratum  Lychnis 

Alyssum  Marigolds 

Asters  Mignonette 

Browallia  Nasturtium 

Calceolaria  Pansy 

Calliopsis  or  Coreopsis  Penstemon 

Campanula  Petunia 

Candytuft  Phlox 

Cenfcaurea  Pinks 

Chrysanthemum   (Annual)          '  Poppies 
Cineraria  Portulacca 

Clarkia  Pyrethrum 

Columbine  Rudbeckia 

Cosmos  Salvia 

Daisies  Salpiglossis 

Euchardium  Scabiosa 

Flax   (scarlet)  Schizanthus 

Forget-Me-Nots  Sweet  Pea 

Foxglove  Snapdragon 

Gaillardia  Stocks 

Godetia  Sweet  William 

Gypsophila  Sunflower 

Hollyhock  Verbena 

Larkspur  Violet 

Lobelia  Wallflower 

Lupin  Zinnia 

The  foregoing  is  not  intended  to  indicate  that  these  are  the  best 
plants  of  their  class.  It  simply  means  that  these  are  approved  by 
many  people  and  invites  you  to  find  better  if  you  can  by  trying 
others  of  which  the  seed  is  just  as  easily  obtained.  The  list  is 
restricted  to  those  of  more  or  less  upright  growth-habit;  herbaceous 
vines  will  be  mentioned  in  another  connection. 

And  now  it  is  fitting  to  remark  briefly  upon  each  of  the  plants,  or 
groups  of  plants,  indicated  above,  noting  culture  methods  when 


166  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

they  are  not  fully   covered   by  the  detailed   suggestions   presented   in 
Chapters  VII  and  VIII: 

Ageratum. — This  trim,  bushy  plant,  easy  to  grow  all  the  year  in 
California,  is  chiefly  notable  for  its  excellent  shades  of  blue,  from 
light  to  deep  in  different  varieties,  though  there  are.  white  ones. 
Dwarf  kinds  are  less  than  a  foot  in  height  and  a  mass  of  bloom;  good 
for  edging  and  bedding  effects. 

Alyssum. — Another  low  plant  of  continuous  bloom  is  alyssum.  It 
is  chiefly  useful  for  its  white  effect,  though  it  comes  also  in  yellows. 
We  have  wearied  of  it  because  it  volunteers  as  freely  as  a  weed.  It 
comes  from  the  seed  most  carelessly  sown  and  it  can  be  grown  also 
from  cuttings  of  the  side  shoots,  but  the  fact  never  impressed  us 
because  we  had  so  much  trouble  keeping  the  seedlings  where  we 
desired  to  have  them.  They  seemed  to  enjoy  growing  as  well  in  a 
gravel  walk  as  in  a  bed. 

Asters. — Asters  are  grandly  available  for  bloom  all  through  the 
summer  and  autumn  from  plants  started  in  seed  boxes  under  frames, 
beginning  in  January  and  continuing  until  May.  This  program  will 
give  blooming  plants  from  May  until  October  or  later.  If  one  does 
not  desire  to  use  protection  appliances,  a  start  can  be  made  in  April 
or  May  by  sowing  the  seed  in  a  small  bed  in  the  open  ground  and 
covered  over  one-quarter,  or  one-eighth  of  an  inch.  Cover  with  a  light 
mulch  and  the  plants  should  make  their  appearance  in  seven  or  eight 
days  and  be  ready  for  transplanting  into  the  permanent  bed  in  five 
or  six  weeks.  Some  growers  claim  this  method  gives  better  results 
than  planting  seed  in  boxes,  but  the  latter  method  seems  more 
rational  and  is  relied  upon  by  most  growers.  The  aster  is  a  popular 
commercial  flower  and  a  great  variety  of  forms,  sizes  and  colors 
are  available.  Excellent  bedding  effects  can  be  had  with  asters  suit- 
ably arranged.  We  have  seen  this,  for  instance,,  very  effectively 
worked  out,  in  a  large  circular  bed,  by  planting  in  the  center  of  the 
bed  a  tall  quilled  variety  in  one  distinct  color,  next  the  peony  per- 
fection in  another  distinct  color,  following  with  the  cocardeau  and 
dwarf  chrysanthemum,  the  former  having  white  centers  and  colored 
margins;  and  edging  with  the  pretty  little  bouquet  aster. 

During  recent  years  the  aster  has  been  grandly  developed  as  a 
large  plant  to  grow  in  singles  or  in  clumps.  A  writer  for  the  Cali- 
fornia Cultivator  notes  this:  "The  new  varieties  of  the  giant  comet 
branching  type  and  the  upright  branching  add  greatly  to  the  list  of 
desirable  sorts.  Giant  comet  is  a  loose,  chrysanthemum,  recurved 
petaled  variety,  while  the  upright  branching  is  identical  in  form  of 
flower  with  the  old  American  branching  type,  having  very  large  flowers 
of  a  branching  habit  but  with  thick,  heavy  stems  which  grow  erect 
•and  are  not  easily  beaten  down  by  rain  or  sprinkling.  For  the  amateur 


POPULAR  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  167 

this  is  probably  the  finest  aster  grown.  The  flowers  average  four  to 
five  inches  across  and  there  are  five  or  six  distinct  shades.  As  a 
commercial  flower  it  is  unsurpassed. 

Browallia. — This  is  also  given  to  blues,  shading  from  sky  blue  to 
ultramarine,  in  other  varieties,  from  sky  blue  to  white.  It  blooms 
very  freely  and  grows  from  a  foot  upwards.  It  is  less  hardy  than 
many  others  in  face  of  frost  and  ha*s  to  be  handled  with  a  little 
circumspection. 

Calceolaria. — The  small-growing  hybrid  calceolarias  of  shades  from 
lemon  yellow  to  brown,  have  recently  become  very  popular  for  out- 
door growth  and  produce  gorgeous  effects  during  the  frost-free  period. 
They  bloom  continually  from  May  to  November,  and  almost  the 
entire  year  in  some  places,  making  large,  almost  shrub-like  plants 
and  lose  only  their  top  growth  by  light  frosts.  Although  they  may 
be  crowded  for  mass-effects,  we  enjoy  more  the  aspect  of  a  single 
plant  which  has  room  for  the  branching  it  delights  in.  The  plants 
are  grown  from  the  seed — preferably  in  hot  bed  or  frame  during  the 
winter  for  spring  planting  out.  The  seed  is  very  small  and  has  to  be 
handled  as  suggested  for  such  seeds  in  Chapter  VII. 

Calliopsis  or  Coreopsis. — For  rich  yellows,  shading  to  browns  and 
maroons,  the  calliopsis  species  are  notable.  The  most  popular  and 
serviceable  species  coreopsis  lanceolata  has  flowers  bright  yellow, 
two  or  three  inches  in  diameter,  on  long  stems,  one  to  three  feet  high; 
very  desirable  for  cutting;  blooms  in  great  profusion  during  the  whole 
summer  and  autumn.  The  flowers  are  very  durable  in  decoration  and 
success  in  handling  the  plant  lies  in  cutting  them  very  freely  near 
to  the  ground.  When  this  is  done  the  plant  continues  to  shoot  them. 
If  one  tries  to  trellis  or  stake  or  otherwise  support  the  blooms  he 
gets  into  a  tangle  of  new  and  old  which  is  discouraging.  The  plant 
continues  to  make  its  flat  foliage  and  to  bloom  profusely  for  years. 
It  is  readily  grown  from  the  seed  by  ordinary  methods. 

Campanula. — Campanulas  are  delightful  for  low  foliage  and  grace- 
ful, long-season  blue  bloom.  The  old  "Canterbury  Bells"  is  much 
less  desirable  than  the  perennial  varieties,  though  very  showy  for  a 
short  time.  The  perennials  have  much  more  grace  in  their  open  bells, 
carried  on  long  stems.  The  genus  campanula  is  somewhat  baffling, 
as  it  includes  nearly  two  hundred  species,  but  of  these  only  half  a 
dozen  are  grown  in  California  and  of  these  the  Carpathian  is  most 
popular  for  small  gardens,  at  least  while  the  tall  pyramidalis  and 
persicifolia  are  also  very  fine — the  former  shooting  foliage  and  bloom 
as  high  as  the  fence  and  serviceable  for  screening.  The  plants  are 
almost  continually  active  if  well  cared  for,  and  they  are  grown  easily 
from  the  seed. 


168  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Candytuft. — Candytuft  is  one  of  the  easiest  of  plants  to  grow 
and  among  the  quickest  to  break  into  bloom  and  to  furnish  a  succes- 
sion by  sowing  at  different  dates.  The  different  varieties  differ  widely 
in  stature  and  in  colors,  and  the  beginner  will  find  them  excellent 
teachers  of  many  elements  of  garden  wisdom  and  they  will  encourage 
him  to  keep  at  it. 

Centaurea. — Although  the  "Corn  flowers"  enjoy  California  gardens 
immensely,  it  is  fortunate  that,  so  far  as  we  have  observed,  they  are 
not  disposed  to  become  such  a  combined  field  beauty  and  pest  as 
they  do  in  Europe.  The  rich  blue  varieties  are  most  popular.  Centaurea 
also  includes  the  "Sweet  Sultans,"  of  which  there  are  several  good 
varieties,  with  a  wide  range  of  colors,  most  of  them  bearing  rich 
flowers  on  tall,  stiff  stems;  excellent  for  decorative  purposes.  To  get 
a  long  blooming  season  the  plants  should  be  started  during  the  winter 
under  protection  and  planted  out  early. 

Chrysanthemum. — These  are  not  the  plants  to  which  Chapter  XVI 
is  devoted,  though  botanical  brothers.  These  are  more  herbaceous 
in  growth  and  of  shorter  life — being  classed  as  annuals.  These  plants, 
of  which  varieties  are  being  developed  which  are  likely  to  rival  the 
assortment  of  the  perennial  chrysanthemum,  are  rapidly  growing  in 
favor  and  are  serving  striking  purposes  in  enriching  midsummer  and 
autumn  bloom.  The  plants  are  grown  under  cover  and  much  as 
asters  are  and  are  easy  to  handle  in  every  way. 

Cineraria. — The  open-air  glory  of  this  plant  during  the  winter 
growth  and  bloom,  followed  by  spring  and  early-summer  abundance 
thereof,  is  each  year  attracting  more  attention  in  California.  It  is 
still,  of  course,  a  hot  house  plant,  starting  in  August  for  winter 
bloom,  but  it  is  greater  through  self-sown  plants  appearing  in  masses 
after  the  autumn  rains  begin,  in  places  where  older  plants  have 
bloomed  the  previous  summer.  In  fact,  the  cineraria  presents  the 
invertion  of  horticultural  practice  in  California  more  strikingly,  per- 
haps, than  any  other  plant,  for  instead  of  taking  house-grown  ciner- 
arias to  the  open  ground  for  blooming,  open-air  volunteering,  or 
selfsown,  plants  are  sometimes  potted  up  for  house  growth  and  the 
writer  was  quite  flattered  once  by  a  request  from  a  local  florist  that 
he  be  allowed  to  take  up  from  his  garden  a  chunk  of  earth  which 
was  fairly  green  with  tiny  cineraria  seedlings  just  right  for  pricking 
out  in  thumb-pots.  The  seed  is  exceedingly  small  and  nature  had 
done  surface-sowing  which  brought  myriads  of  seedlings  when  the 
heat  and  moisture  of  October  in  the  coast  region  were  just  right  for 
germination.  But  if  one  has  not  a  supply  of  such  seedlings  or  if  he 
desires  to  buy  selected  seed,  let  him  follow  the  suggestions  for  the 
finest  seedlings  in  Chapter  VII.  The  cineraria  in  the  open  air  in 
California  enjoys  shade  even  in  the  coast  .district.  Where  soil  and 


POPULAR  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  169 

moisture  are  kept  right  the  plants  can  be  grandly  grown  under  trees, 
which  do  not  branch  too  near  the  ground,  or  on  the  east  and  north 
sides  of  buildings,  fences,  etc.  Plate  11  gives  a  view  of  a  tall  phoenix 
palm  taken  in  December.  This  tree  holds  its  umbrella-like  top  over 
a  circular  bed  of  cinerarias  of  mixed  colors  which  attracts  the  atten- 
tion of  all  passers.  In  December  the  new  self-sown  seedlings  are 
coming  on  well  and  there  is  a  scattering  bloom  on  a  few  old  plants 
which  does  not  deeply  impress  the  camera.  But  from  February  until 
June  the  bed  will  be  gorgeous,  and  then  there  will  be  poorer  bloom 
until  the  old  tops  are  cleared  away  in  September.  Soon  after,  new 
growth  will  appear  from  the  old  roots  and  seedlings  will  spring  up 
freely  as  above  described.  The  cineraria  surely  does  like  to  be  a 
Californian. 

Clarkia. — Clarkia  is  a  Pacific  Coast  flower  which  seems  almost  to 
be  better  known  at  a  distance,  where  it  has  been  encouraged  into 
variations,  than  at  home,  although  it  is  popular  in  California — espe- 
cially in  the  southern  part  of  the  state.  Its  culture  is  very  simple 
and  its  bloom  fine.  It  should  be  sown  here  in  the  autumn  or  at 
intervals  during  the  rainy  season,  instead  of  being  held  for  spring 
planting  as  at  the  East.  Clarkias  grow  and  bloom  well  in  moist 
soil,  bearing  flowers  showy  of  peculiar  form,  freely  and  continually 
produced. 

Columbine. — Columbines  are  available  in  various  heights  and  sev- 
eral colors.  They  are  easily  grown  if  given  partial  shade  and  in  good 
situations  have  long  life.  Eastern  and  northern  openings  give  them 
superior  summer  activity  and  appearance,  although  in  the  coast 
region  they  are  very  interesting  and  satisfactory  in  various  exposures, 
if  not  too  far  neglected. 

Cosmos. — Cosmos  is  one  of  our  grandest  summer  and  autumn 
flowers — the  frost-free  period  being  long  enough  to  enable  it  to 
grow  almost  to  the  stature  and  form  of  a  tree  if  given  plenty  of 
moisture  during  the  dry  season.  It  is,  however,  a  plant  which  must 
be  counted  tender  against  frost,  and  is  therefore  grown  from  seed 
sown  under  cover  and  transplanted.  The  improvement  of  Cosmos 
is  in  part  to  be  credited  to  California  and  it  is  interesting  to  read 
what  the  late  Mrs.  Theodosia  B.  Shepherd  of  Ventura  wrote  some 
years  ago  about  the  plant  with  which  she  worked  very  successfully: 

"To  be  thoroughly  appreciated,  cosmos  should  be  grown  in  large 
quantities,  in  masses,  in  groups,  in  lines,  as  single  specimens,  in 
order  that  it  may  be  seen  in  all  its  phases.  A  single  specimen  plant 
often  covers  a  space  of  10  or  12  feet  in  diameter,  and  is  adorned  with 
blossoms  from  the  ground  up. 

"If  planted  about  the  first  of  May,  the  plant  grows  very  tall,  and 
the  stems  frequently  measure  an  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter,  the 


170  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

branches  five  or  six  feet  in  length.  If  planted  late  it  grows  about 
three  or  four  feet  high,  and  comes  into  bloom  the  same  time  as  that 
which  was  planted  early;  the  flowers  are  just  as  large  and  the  plants 
more  easy  to  manage  when  not  so  tall.  When  planted  in  the  late 
fall  it  comes  into  bloom  when  the  plants  iare  about  one  foot  high, 
and  the  flowers  are  small. 

"There  are  white  and  pink  flowers  with  full,  round  petals,  slightly 
incurved,  very  large,  resembling  camellias,  pink  and  white  frilled 
ones,  with  very  large,  broad  petals  with  edges  fringed;  these 
resemble  romneya  coulteri  or  California  tree  poppy;  flowers  in 
pink,  white  and  mauve,  with  plain  round  petals  and  large,  flat  eye, 
having  a  waxen  appearance  and  yet  much  resembling  Anemone  Ja- 
ponica,  in  large  and  small  sizes,  the  larger  ones  having  broad-plaited 
peals;  flowers  with  a  maroon  ring  around  the  eye;  large  pink  and 
white  star-like  flowers;  charming  crimson  flowers  of  infinite  variety 
of  shape,  measuring  four  and  five  inches  across;  white  flowers  with 
a  delicate  mauve  ring  around  the  eye.  Indeed,  there  are  so  many 
beautiful  combinations  of  shapes,  shades  and  colors  that  I  cannot 
find  language  to  properly  describe  them." 

Cosmos  plants  can  be  started  under  cover,  or  somewhat  later, 
may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground.  The  plant  is  easily  grown,  the 
essential  being  to  give  the  plants  room  enough.  It  is  not  best  to 
force  to  extreme  size  unless  one  wishes  a  screen  of  beautiful  foliage 
and  securely  stakes  the  plants.  Our  greatest  achievement  for  size 
was  blown  flat  one  year  by,the  first  autumn  rainstorm. 

Daisies. — The  term  "daisy"  is  hardly  descriptive  of  anything,  but 
it  is  still  in  use  as  a  popular  name.  The  old  English  daisy,  (Bellis) 
the  low-growing  rosette,  will  grow  freely  in  California  with  any 
sort  of  planting  and,  lacking  that  will  plant  itself.  It  is  still  favored 
in  small  gardens  for  an  edging,  although  it  has  no  idea  of  staying 
in  that  form.  Some  of  the  asters  are  also  "daisies,"  and  they  have 
the  aster  habit,  as  already  indicated.  The  most  useful  "daisies"  in 
California  at  the  present  time  are  those  of  chrysanthemunvancestry, 
produced  by  Mr.  Luther  Burbank.  They  are  exceedingly  satisfactory 
to  the  amateur,  as  they  are  easily  grown  from  seed  or  by  division 
of  the  roots  and  they  will  endure  much  neglect,  although,  of  course, 
the  full  size  of  bloom,  which  is  about  four  inches  indiameter,  is  only 
to  be  had  by  giving  the  plant  room  and  light  and  plenty  of  water 
in  the  dry  season.  Still  maximum  size  is  not  essential  and  unless 
one's  garden  lies  in  the  lines  of  soot-blows  he  will  get  grand,  glisten- 
ing-white blooms  in  great  profusion  on  long,  strong  stems,  which 
enable  the  decorator  to  dispose  the  blossom  very  gracefully  and 
effectively.  Mr.  Burbank's  Shasta  daisy  group  has  to  some  extent 
displaced  the  old  "marguerite" — the  woody  chrysanthemum  species 


POPULAR  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  171 

which  one  is  apt,  unreasonably,  to  expect  to  keep  always  good  with- 
out renewal  of  wood.  Other  herbaceous  "daisies"  of  Europe  have 
been  displaced  by  the  Shasta  group. 

Quite  a  different  and  a  newer  "daisy"  is  called  the  "Transvaal" 
or  "South  African  scarlet  daisy" — Gerbera  Jamesonii,  which  is  receiv- 
ing some  attention  in  Southern  California.  Prof.  R.  T.  Stevens  of 
the  University  of  California  furnishes  the  following  note:  "The 
Gerbera  is  not  an  easy  plant  to  raise,  requiring  a  warm,  sunny,  pro- 
tected place  on  a  slope,  if  possible,  for  it  will  freeze  easily.  Good 
rich  soil  and  good  drainage  are  essential.  The  greatest  care  must 
be  taken  to  prevent  the  crown  of  the  plant  from  being  covered 
with  earth  or  with  litter,  or  it  is  likely  to  damp  off.  The  base  or 
crown  should  be  even  a  little  above  the  surrounding  ground.  The 
plant  demands  water,  but  the  drainage  must  be  such  that  none  of 
it  will  settle  and  remain  to  create  wet,  soggy  conditions.  The  plant 
is  often  grown  on  small,  raised,  hillocks  from  eight  to  twelve  inches 
(above  the  surrounding  ground,  with  a  basin  of  water  at  the  top." 

A  much  easier  plant  is  like  a  daisy  and  is  called  the  African 
orange  daisy,  (Dimorphotheca  aurantiaca)  excellent  for  borders  or 
low  edging,  as  it  keeps  below  a  foot  high  and  covers  itself  with 
bloom.  The  plant  is  hardy  as  a  weed;  come  from  seed  with  perfect 
success  and  is  easy  to  transplant.  They  should  be  given  six  or 
eight  inches  apart  in  the  row.  They  will  flower  from  two  and  half 
months  after  planting  until  winter  and  in  mild  winters  will  bloom 
through  the  whole  season. 

Euchardium. — This  is  a  plant  which  should  be  more  widely  known. 
Its  full  name  is  Eucharidium  grandiflora,  and  a  grower  gives  this 
note:  "In  the  size  and  form  of  the  flower  it  very  much  resembles 
the  Clarkia,  than  which  it  is  dwarfer  and  more  compact,  and  is  more- 
acceptable  as  a  bedding  plant.  The  habit  is  all  that  could  be  desired, 
and  the  flowers  are  attractive,  not  only  for  beauty,  but  for  the  curious 
appearance  presented  by  them,  possessing  as  they  do  the  peculiar 
tri-lobate  petals  so  characteristic  of  the  Clarkia  and  its  allies." 

Flax. — Although  the  flaxes  grown  for  seed  and  fiber  are  very 
pretty  with  their  shades  of  blue  and  of  white  blooms  and  are  hardy 
as  grains,  giving  lovely  winter  effects,  it  is  the  scarlet  flax  or  Linum 
rubrum  which  is  more  striking  and  notable.  It  is  a  graceful  plant, 
from  a  foot  high  upwards,  bearing  bright  red  flowers  in  abundance. 
It  grows  readily  from  seed  in  open  ground,  from  sowing  after  the 
fall  rains  and  later  in  the  rainy  season. 

Forget-Me-Nots. — The  varieties  of  myosotis  surely  do  make  it 
impossible  to  forget  them  in  California.  They  grow  luxuriantly  in 
all  except  very  frosty  times,  doing  their  best  in  the  moderate 
temperatures  of  autumn  and  spring,  but  active  also  during  the  highest 


172  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

heat  of  the  coast  region  in  moist  and  shady  places.  They  are  very 
free  in  self-sowing  and  if  you  have  ever  introduced  the  plant  you 
may  count  upon  always  finding  it  afterwards,  singing  its  appeal  for 
remembrance  in  neglected  corners. 

Foxglove. — Digitalis  shoots  its  tall  bell-clothed  flower  stems 
sooner  than  one  would  expect  from  its  recorded  biennial  habit 
and  it  sometimes  lives  longer  than  expected.  It  is  too  large  for 
small  gardens,,  except  in  the  background,  perhaps,  and  a  little  shade 
agrees  with  it.  It  cohabits  well  with  ferns.  The  seed  is  fine  and 
growing  plants  in  boxes  for  transplanting  is  better  than  open-sowing. 
It  makes  numerous  side  shoots  and  these  continue  beauty  after 
the  main  shoot  has  been  removed,  when  its  flowers  collapse.  On 
large  places  great  clumps  of  digitalis  are  very  effective. 

Gaillardia. — Gaillardia  Grandiflora  is  one  of  the  showiest  of  peren- 
nials, bearing  a  profusion  of  flowers  from  June  until  winter,  and 
often  through  the  winter  in  spite  of  light  frosts.  It  will  thrive  in 
any  kind  of  soil.  The  flowers  are  borne  on  long  stems,  center  dark 
red  to  brown,  with  rings  of  brilliant  crimson,  scarlet,  orange  and 
vermilion,  two  to  three  inches  in  diameter.  It  is  excellent  for  cut- 
ting. It  should  be  more  widely  grown  because  of  its  gay  coloring 
and  decorative  value;  also  because  it  is  one  of  the  most  grateful  and 
contended  plants  we  have,  willing  to  make  a  grand  display  under 
conditions  of  hard  ground  and  summer  drouth,  which  throw  most 
other  plants  into  the  sulks.  Mr.  Morris  of  Los  Angeles  says  of  the 
new  varieties  which  have  been  recently  developed:  "The  new  giant 
hybrid  gaillardias  are  well  worth  growing.  As  they  bloom  freely 
they  should  be  in  every  home  garden.  These  require  about  four 
months  to  come  into  flowering  and  once  established  will  continue 
blooming  from  year  to  year.  Some  of  the  new  varieties  produce 
flowers  five  inches  across,  ranging  from  a  deep  orange  red  to  a 
lemon  yellow  in  color,  and  often  these  colors  are  blended  most 
perfectly  in  the  one  flower,  the  center  being  dark,  shading  off  to  the 
light  lemon." 

Godetia. — Godetias,  or  Evening  Primroses,  are  beautiful  late  spring 
and  summer  bloomers  from  seed  sown  at  intervals  of  good  soil 
condition  during  the  rainy  season,  preferably  in  rather  light  soil. 
The  colors  are  hues  of  red,  shading  and  marking  each  flower;  the 
flowers  being  large,  cup-shaped  and  showy,  and  the  plants  low-grow- 
ing, from  one  to  two  feet,  usually.  They  require  no  special  treat- 
ment. The  several  varieties  differ  widely  in  height  and  hues  and 
are  very  hardy,  interesting  and  satisfactory. 

Gypsophila. — This  is  the  very  graceful  plant  known  as  "Baby 
Breath,"  which  presents  such  an  airy  effect  in  the  garden  and  is  so 
highly  esteemed  as  a  substitute  for  ferns  in  boquet  making.  Two 


POPULAR  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  173 

white  kinds  are  chiefly  used  for  this  purpose,  being  very  elegant 
with  their  web-like  foliage  and  small,  white  star-like  flowers.  The 
plants  are  easily  grown  from  seed  and  are  very  drouth  resistant. 

Hollyhocks.— These  favorites  of  the  old  gardens  in  wintry  cli- 
mates almost  double  their  stature  and  their  blooming  season  under 
California  conditions  and  in  places  of  little  frost  make  manifest 
effort  to  be  evergreen  and  ever-blooming.  The  late  side  shoots  of 
a  giant  which  has  thrown  bloom  ten  feet  into  the  air  in  midsummer, 
will  often  give  miniature  bloom  stems  two  feet  high  at  Christmas. 
Hollyhocks  often  bloom  within  a  year  from  the  seed-sowing,  thus 
illustrating  the  disposition  of  plants  to  concentrate  their  historic 
two  years  record  into  one,  as  has  been  previously  noted.  One  will 
see  all  kinds  of  hollyhocks  in  California  gardens,  the  old  tall-singles 
being  still  preferred  by  many  for  their  grace  over  the  denser-bloom- 
ing doubles.  But  perhaps  the  best  on  all  accounts  are  the  Allegany, 
a  semi-double  fringed  variety  which  blooms  the  same  summer  from 
early  sowing  and  the  Chaters,  an  English  strain  which  is  semi-dwarf 
and  blooms  in  dense  clusters.  Hollyhocks  are  easily  grown  from 
open  ground  sowings;  in  fact,  they  volunteer  freely  all  over  the 
garden  after  their  first  introduction. 

Larkspur. — Larkspurs  are  almost  incomparable  for  their  beautiful 
blues  in  large  spikes  and  their  elegant  foliage  of  such  tropical  aspect. 
Though  there  are  annuals  of  good  service  the  perennial  are  generally 
signified  when  one  says  "larkspur"  or  "delphinium."  They  have  a 
long  blooming  season  and  where  frost  is  light  or  absent  they  are 
to  give  a  rich  summer  bloom  and  to  repeat  it  on  the  new  growth  in 
autumn  after  a  short  rest  in  the  late  summer,  or  it  will  continue  to 
bloom  if  spent  shoots  are  removed  after  blooming.  They  are  chiefly 
grown  by  division  of  the  roots,  which  should  be  done  during  the 
rainy  season,  as  the  ground  becomes  warm  after  the  coldest  weather 
and  the  soil  freed  from  standing  water;  otherwise  the  roots  may 
decay  after  disturbance.  Although  larkspurs  are  quite  worth  while, 
even  under  rather  trying  conditions  of  soil  and  moisture,  the  colossal 
stalks  and  flowers  are  the  reward  for  extra  deep  soil  working,  abund- 
ant manuring  and  ample  irrigation.  A  scarlet  larkspur  is  becoming 
more  common  but  the  blues  prevail.  Another  very  striking  species 
is  also  scarlet  borne  on  stems  bare  of  leaves  and  producing  a  very 
graceful  effect. 

Lobelia. — This  little,  rather  tender  plant,  is  unrivaled  for  its  sub- 
mergence of  its  small  foliage  in  its  flood  of  deep  blue  bloom.  It  is 
beautiful  as  an  edging  plant  or  for  a  mass  effect.  It  is  an  annual 
even  where  frost  is  light,  but  one  can  take  up  a  large  clump  before 
frost  and  hold  it  over  in  the  green  house  to  use  for  side-shoot  cut- 
tings after  the  frosts  are  over.  It  grows  readily  from  seed  on  proper 


174  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

treatment  for  so  small  a  seed  and  should  be  sown  in  boxes  under 
cover  to  get  plants  for  spring  setting  in  the  open.  Another  very  easy 
way,  where  the  first  rains  come  without  frosts,,  is  to  take  the  myriads 
of  self-sown  seedlings  which  promptly  appear  under  and  around  the 
old  plants.  By  thumb-potting  these  tiny  plants  or  pricking  them 
out  in  flats  one  can  get  any  number  of  thrifty  little  clumps  for 
setting  out  after  frost  and  thus  realize  very  early  effects.  There  are 
also  tall,  perennial  lobelias,  but  they  have  not  yet  made  much  impres- 
sion on  the  amateur  mind. 

Lupins. — These  wild  legumes  in  various  shades  of  blue,  also  in 
white  and  yellow,  are  useful  for  large  effects  but  not  much  grown  in 
gardens,  because  one  sees  so  much  of  them  all  over  the  state  from 
the  sand  beaches  of  the  ocean,  across  the  plains  to  the  mountain  sides. 

Lychnis. — The  Lychnis  family  is  growing  in  favor.  The  double 
white,  the  double  red  and  dou'ble  crimson  are  most  valuable  for  sum- 
mer flowering,  and  produce  their  charming  carnation-like  flowers  in 
the  greatest  profusion  all  summer;  they  are  excellent  for  cutting 
and  some  of  them  are  exquisitely  fragrant.  They  are  easily  grown 
from  seed  and  are  apt  to  run  two  to  three  feet  high. 

Marigolds. — The  marigolds  can  be  justly  called  gorgeous,  although 
their  rank  growth  and  aggressive  freedom  in  possessing  the  earth 
causes  them  to  be  regarded  as  rather  common.  The  most  common, 
or  African  marigold,  is  almost  more  easily  grown  than  kept  from 
growing.  The  French  marigolds  are  not  quite  as  easy  and  are 
often  started  in  flats  and  transplanted  once  or  twice  before  planting 
out.  The  French  are  variously  hued  and  striped  and  are  very  hand- 
some, both  in  flower  and  foliage,  but  one  never  gets  very  affectionate 
with  any  of  the  marigolds  because  of  their  somewhat  medicinal  odors. 

Mignonette. — Mignonette  is  almost  a  garden  weed,  sowing  itself 
and  lingering  long  into  the  frosty  season.  It  keeps  coming  from 
the  seed  if  once  introduced  to  the  garden  and  its  exquisite  perfume 
amply  compensates  for  its  intrusive  behavior. 

Nasturtiums. — Nasturtiums  are  almost  universal  in  California,  and 
though  so  common,  always  hold  interest  because  of  their  acceptance 
of  all  hard  conditions  except  frost,  and  because  varieties  have  been 
developed  of  such  exquisite  hues  and  interesting  markings.  Although 
the  plant  is  so  delicate  as  to  serve  as  a  garden  thermometer,  it  is 
safe  through  many  months  in  most  places,  and  it  seeds  so  freely  that 
it  may  always  be  expected  to  return  in  spite  of  spading  and  other 
soil  working.  It  accepts  soil  conditions  which  most  flowers  resent 
by  ill  appearance;  in  fact,  for  an  abundance  of  flowers  it  should  be 
grown  on  rather  poor  soil.  The  blossoms  are  of  all  the  odd  shades 
of  yellow  and  red.  The  leaves  are  also  variegated  in  many  of  the 


PANSIES  AND  How  TO  GROW  THEM  175 

varieties.  Some  are  dwarf  in  habit,  other  tall  and  used  as  climbers, 
and  wonderful  varieties  have  been  developed  in  all  these  lines. 

Pansy.— Pan  si  es  are  a  great  delight  if  well  grown  from  choice 
strains  of  seed  of  which  a  number  of  seedsmen  are  making  a  specialty 
and  a  pansy  specialist  is  coming  to  be  regarded  as  a  very  high  class 
horticulturist,  and  his  work  is  well  worth  attention.  At  the  same 
time  the  commonest  pansies  with  the  scantiest  culture  remain  popu- 
lar. Pansies  can  be  grown  from  seed  sown  in  the  open  ground  during 
the  rainy  season,  for  they  are  quite  hardy;  they  also  root  readily 
from  cuttings  of  their  soft  substances.  But  the  best  way  to  grow 
pansies  is  to  start  the  plants  in  the  late  summer  or  early  autumn,  as 
suggested  in  Chapter  XII.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  flats  or  seed 
boxes,  described  in  Chapter  VII.  Use  finely  prepared,  light  soil, 
at  least  one-third  leaf  mold  or  other  good  fiber.  (See  page  30).  Firm 
the  soil  on  top  by  pressing  down  with  a  smooth  board  or  brick.  Sow 
the  seed  broadcast,  and  after  it  is  sown  press  the  seeds  into  the  soil 
with  a  smooth  board  or  pane  of  glass,  then  cover  with  ^-inch  pure 
leaf  mold  or  finely  chipped  moss.  Water  with  a  fine  spray,  so  as 
not  to  waste  the  seeds.  Put  the  box  in  a  cool,,  shady  place,  free  from 
wind,  and  water  with  a  fine  spray  whenever  the  surface  gets  dry; 
but  do  not  water  towards  night,  or  a  large  percentage  of  the  young 
plants  will  damp  off.  After  they  are  well  up — that  is,  showing  two 
leaves  besides  the  seed  leaves,  they  should  be  given  full  sun.  After 
they  have  made  four  leaves,  they  should  be  planted  in  the  beds  where 
they  are  to  bloom,  or  should  be  transplanted  into  similar  boxes, 
using  similar  soil.  Plant  them  two  inches  apart  in  the  boxes.  The 
more  a  pansy  is  transplanted  the  better  it  seems  to  do,  if  it  is  done 
while  they  are  small.  Some  growers  give  pansies  three  shifts  and 
the  extra  fine  ones  four. 

To  bring  large,  fine  blossoms,  pansies  require  a  rich  soil,  but 
should  have  nothing  but  thoroughly  decayed  manure  (cow  manure  is 
best)  and  plenty  of  it.  And  the  ground  should  be  manured  in  the 
fall  and  spaded  over  several  times  before  setting  out  the  plants  for 
blooming.  An  eastern  exposure  is  best  where  they  have  to  be  grown 
in  partial  shade,  but  a  sunny  place  is  best  for  my  pansies  if  they  are 
given  plenty  of  water.  They  give  more  bloom  and  the  petals  have 
better  substance.  On  grower  who  tried  them  in  full  sun,  in  deep 
shade  and  half  shade,  found  that  while  the  last  did  well,  the  bed  in 
the  full  sunshine  was  best.  They  must  have  deep,  rich  soil  and  plenty 
of  moisture  to  give  numerous  fine  blooms,  and  if  well  treated  will 
blossom  all  the  year. 

Pansies  do  exceedingly  well  with  a  mulch  of  sand  two  inches  deep, 
as  it  will  not  bake  and  the  water  seeps  through  readily.  It  also  pre- 
vents to  a  great  extent  the  approach  of  slugs,  which  are  the  worst 


176  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

enemies  of  the  pansies.  The  foregoing  has  reference  to  experience 
mainly  in  the  coast  district.  That  a  similar  method  brings  fine 
results  in  the  interior  also  is  shown  by  the  following  explicit  and 
somewhat  picturesque  paragraphs  written  by  Mr.  W.  M.  Bristol  of 
Highlands,  San  Bernardino  county: 

"Probably  no  place  better  adapted  to  the  production  of  magnificent 
pansies  than  Southern  California.  The  weather  from  January  to 
July  is  more  or  less  cool  and  moist,  conditions  favorable  to  the 
growth  of  the  pansy,  and  with  proper  management  the  plants  will 
produce  an  immense  crop  of  blossoms  of  large  size. 

"To  have  them  come  into  bloom  in  January  or  February,  the 
seed  must  be  started  in  August.  Considerable  care  is  necessary  to 
success  at  this  stage,  but  after  the  plants  are  large  enough  to  remove 
from  the  seed  bed,  the  directions  for  culture  are  simple,  though 
imperative.  Don't  believe  the  threadbare  and  absurd  statement  that 
"pansies  like  a  shady  place."  Set  them  where  they  will  receive  the 
full  sun  but  no  reflected  heat  from  the  buildings.  When  the  weather 
begins  to  warm  up  in  June,  it  is  well  enough  to  shade  them  with 
light  muslin. 

"Don't  set  the  plants  where  you  have  to  dig  holes  with  a  pick  or 
blast  them  with  dynamite.  Select  a  good  gravelly  loam,  moderately 
compact,  excavate  to  the  depth  of  a  foot,  and  as  the  earth  is  replaced 
mix  in  a  goodly  quantity  of  cleanings  from  the  cowyard  or  chicken 
house  (not  too  much  of  the  latter).  Then  thoroughly  saturate  the 
mass,  and  as  soon  as  dry  enough  to  handleB  work  it  over  again  with 
spade,  hoe  and  rake  and  set  your  plants  about  a  foot  apart. 

"Don't  give  them  a  shower  bath  with  the  hose  every  day  or  two. 
It  is  folly.  It  hardens  and  packs  the  ground  while  the  roots  may  be 
suffering  for  moisture.  Once  in  a  week  or  two  make  holes  or  furrows 
among  the  plants  and  keep  water  therein  until  the  ground  is  thor- 
oughly soaked.  When  sufficiently  dry,  cultivate  and  pulverize  the 
surface.  Remove  all  blossoms  as  they  begin  to  wilt.  If  these  instruc- 
tions are  heeded,  the  rainbow  will  paint  your  pansy  bed  and  make  it 
the  envy  of  your  neighbor  and  the  delight  of  the  wayfarer.  If  they 
are  not  heeded,  you  will  be  heard  in  the  doleful  chorus:  'I  never 
had  no  success  with  pansies  nohow/  " 

Penstemons. — Few  things  are  more  satisfactory  for  a  long  bloom- 
ing season  and  especially  for  winter  hardiness  and  activity  than  the 
penstemons,  which  grows  readily  from  the  seed  started  in  the  early 
autumn  in  boxes  and  planted  out  a  few  weeks  later  or  established 
well  from  spring  sowing  for  bloom  within  a  year.  The  plant  comes 
readily  also  from  soft  stem  cuttings  in  sand  and  hastens  bloom 
thereby.  The  stems  are  two  feet  or  more,  upright,  carrying  bell- 
like  flowers,  suggesting  the  foxglove,  but  very  delicately  shaded 


PETUNIAS,    PINKS    AND    POPPIES  177 

and  mottled  with  reds  and  white.  The  bloom  is  beautiful  and  service- 
able for  house  decoration  and  particularly  brightens  the  garden 
between  the  chrysanthemums  and  the  early  bulbs,  though  available 
far  beyond  that  period. 

Petunia. — Petunias  are  very  serviceable  in  California  for  their 
endurance  of  high  heat  and  drouth,  and  are  easy  to  grow  all  through 
the  frostless  season  and  to  get  continuous  bloom  during  that  period. 
The  seed  is  very  fine  and  needs  surface  sowing  and  to  get  the  full 
benefit  of  the  plant  the  seedlings  should  be  winter-grown  under  cover 
for  putting  out  after  frost.  California  propagators  have  accomplished 
wonders  in  doubling  the  flower  and  in  bringing  its  circumference  and 
their  work  is  better  known  at  the  East,  where  the  petunia  is  a  very 
popular  house  plant  than  in  this  state,  where  it  is  grown  in  the  open. 

Phlox. — Perennial  phloxes,  making  stems  about  three  feet  high 
with  full  panicles  of  bloom  of  various  colors,  are  easily  grown  and 
serve  a  good  purpose  in  masses.  The  annual  phlox  (Drummondii) 
is  very  bright  in  colors,  low  and  carpet-like  in  stature  and  coloring. 
It  is  very  beautiful  during  the  frost  free  period,  and  is  available  in 
many  varieties. 

Pinks. — These  are  well  known  low-growing  perennials  with  grass- 
like  foliage,  botanically  related  to  the  carnation,  but  much  less  popu- 
lar, though  having  the  same  delicious  odor.  They  are  easily  grown, 
making  no  particular  soil  requirement  and  some  of  them  exceedingly 
hardy  under  neglect.  They  are  propagated  either  by  seed,  clump, 
division  or  cuttings.  The  old  Scotch  or  border  pink  is  most  frequently 
seen  and  it  has  a  very  long  blooming  season  in  this  state. 

Poppies. — Of  course  our  greatest  poppy  is  Eschscholtzia  Californca, 
our  State  Flower,  as  noted  on  page  10.  This  species  has  such  capacity 
for  variation  that  Dr.  Jepson  says  nearly  one  hundred  new  species 
have  been  proposed  for  creation  out  of  it,  but  this  should  not  lead 
the  amateur  to  conclude  that  all  our  Eschscholtzias  are  of  one  vari- 
able species,  for  two  others  are  named  and  described.*  But  for  us 
the  "Golden  Poppy,"  with  its  string  of  pretty  Spanish  names,  is 
nearly  the  whole  thing.  It  is  interesting,  historically,  that  foreigners 
have  done  much  for  our  California  poppies  which  might  perhaps 
never  have  been  done  at  home.  We  have  the  flower  in  such  glorious 
amount  that  we  thought  little  of  developing  varieties,  but  this  was 
first  done  abroad,  although  Mr.  Burbank  followed  with  creations 
more  unique  than  the  foreigners  achieved.  More  than  twenty  years 
ago,  the  late  Mr.  Charles  Perry,  an  amateur  rose  grower  at  Birming- 
ham, England,  followed  the  practice  of  growing  eschscholtzias  among 
his  standard  roses,  and,  as  he  always  said,  to  his  entire  satisfaction. 
The  record  before  us  says:  "Mr.  Perry  always  held  no  harm  was 
done  to  his  plants  or  the  bloom  they  carried;  indeed,  he  considered 


178  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

that  in  summer  on  dry  land  the  eschscholtzias  were  beneficial,  keep- 
ing the  soil  cool.  Mr.  Perry  had  the  lemon-colored  E.  tenuifolia, 
the  yellow  E.  Californica  and  the  golden  E.  Crocea.  The  varieties 
have  since  been  extended  by  the  introduction  of  the  white  form  of 
E.  Californioa,  the  rich,  the  pretty  and  distinct  rosy  carmine  Rose 
Cardinal,  which  is  regarded  as  a  variety  of  E.  grandiflora,  and  the 
deep  rich  orange  E.  Mandarin,  which,  though  placed  in  seed  lists  as 
a  variety  of  E.  Crocea,  actually  came  from  Rose  Cardinal." 

This  reference  gives  an  idea  of  how  extensive  the  making  of 
species  of  eschscholtzia  has  been  for  a  generation  or  more.  Mr. 
Perry's  plan  of  carpeting  his  English  rose  garden  with  our  State 
Flower  may  be  suggestive  to  California  growers,  but,  of  course,  they 
must  remember  that  such  practice  in  California  might  be  at  the  risk 
of  diverting  moisture  which  the  roses  need  iand  which  should  be 
conserved  for  them  by  good  tillage.  As  for  culture  of  the  plant  in 
California  there  is  naught  to  do  but  scatter  the  seed  and  rake  lightly. 
After  that  you  will  not  lose  it;  it  keeps  coming  from  self-sown  seed 
and  it  also  holds  on  to  life  by  a  perennial  root  which  resumes  activity 
even  in  quite  dry  land  by  the  touch  of  the  fall  rains. 

The  poppies  of  other  lands  dispute  possession  of  California  with 
the  native  species.  They  come  readily  from  the  seed  in  open  ground, 
although  some  start  plants  in  boxes  for  planting  out.  The  Shirleys  are 
a  large  group  of  'beautiful  annuals  which  volunteer  so  freely  that  their 
old  bed  looks  like  a  lawn  unless  disturbed,  and  even  digging  does 
not  suppress  seedlings,  because  some  seed  is  left  near  the  surface. 
And  then  there  are  the  old-fashioned  single  and  double  poppies  in 
endless  statures  and  colors.  All  one  has  to  do  is  to  start  to  keep 
having  them  around  the  place.  Besides,  there  are  the  perennials,  of 
which  the  Oriental  poppies  with  their  numerous  varieties  and  colors 
are  most  prominent  and  well  worth  cultivating.  The  flowers  are  large 
and  very  brilliant  in  color;  satisfied  with  almost  any  kind  of  soil. 
The  Iceland  poppies  form  also  a  most  beautiful  group,  their  bold 
and  bright  flowers  of  yellow,  white  and  scarlet  are  simply  magnificent, 
and  besides  their  beauty  have  a  very  pleasant  lilac  perfume. 

Last  of  all  and  perhaps  least  known  though  better  worth  knowing, 
is  the  Mexican  poppy,  (Hunnemannia)  which  has  the  general  aspect 
of  an  eschscholtzia,  and  of  clear  lemon,  cup-shaped  bloom.  It  is 
fine  for  winter  bloom  and  in  fact  keeps  busy  nearly  through  the  year. 
Seed  planted  in  June  with  enough  moisture  will  bloom  in  the  early 
autumn  and  continue  through  the  rainy  season — but  we  do  not  find 
it  so  resolute  in  holding  on  as  other  poppies  but  likely  to  disappear 
through  neglect. 

*Flora  of  Western  Middle  California,  page  177. 


PORTULACA     AND     SALPIGLOSSIS  179 

Portulaca. — This  plant  does  excellently  under  fairly  good  condi- 
tions in  California,  although  we  do  not  find  it  quite  so  tolerant  of 
drouth  as  ordinary  descriptions  indicate.  If,  however,  one  strikes  it 
right  a  splendid  effect  is  produced.  For  variety  and  intensity  of  color, 
the  genus  has  but  few  equals;  the  colors  ranging  from  through  white, 
yellow,  pink,  purple,  and  the  most  dazzling  vermilion.  The  flowers 
are  large,  about  the  size  of  a  dollar,  and  while  the  single  varieties  are 
beautiful,  the  double  ones  are  much  more  so.  It  is  well  adapted  to 
bedding  purposes,  whether  in  mixture,  or  distinct  colors.  Perhaps 
the  limitations  of  portulaca  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  purs- 
lane— called  "pusley"  at  the  East  and  considered  the  last  thing  in 
meanness — does  not  occur  in  California  gardens. 

Pyrethrum. — Pyrethrum  Roseum,  sometimes  called  the  red  Mar- 
guerite, is  a  very  showy  perennial;  bearing  its  large,  deep  rose-colored 
flowers,  with  yellow  disk,  for  a  long  time  during  spring  and  summer. 
There  are  many  varieties  of  single  and  double-flowering  kinds,  but 
the  single  deep  rose-colored  one  is  really  the  most  desirable  one. 
Sometimes  single  plants  have  fifty  flowers  at  a  time — borne  aloft  on 
long,  strong  and  slender  stems.  It  is  grown  easily  from  the  seed  in 
boxes  under  cover  and  if  started  in  the  winter  for  early  planting  out, 
is  likely  to  bloom  the  same  autumn  if  frosts  are  absent.  Established 
clumps  will  bloom  spring  and  fall  or  continuously. 

Pyrethrum  also  includes  the  "Golden  Feather"  or  "Fever  few" — 
a  low,  yellow-leafed  edging  plant,  which  amateurs  often  rush  for  to 
give  striking  outlines  to  their  geometry.  Plants  are  grown  in  boxes 
under  cover  and  set  out  after  frost  danger  is  over. 

Rudbeckia. — This  genus  includes  a  group  of  showy  plants  called 
"cone-flowers."  They  have  a  daisy-like  flower  with  prominent  central 
tuft  or  cone  of  dark  color.  The  most  popular  is  the  species  called 
"golden  glow" — with  high  bunches  of  rich  yellow  bloom.  Best 
results  are  attained  by  frequent  root-division  to  give  room  for  free 
growth.  There  are  also  low-growing  species  and  quite  a  range  of 
colors.  The  plants  are  easily  grown  from  seed  in  boxes  or  under 
proper  conditions  in  the  open  ground  early  in  the  frost-free  period. 

Salvia. — The  salvias  or  ornamental  sages  show  grand  blue  or  bril- 
liant reds,  according  to  the  species,  and  are  easily  grown  from  seed  or 
cuttings  by  starting  while  air  and  soil  are  warm  and  adequately  moist. 
Though  disliking  frost  the  sages  are  not  otherwise  particular  and  will 
accept  average  soil  and  do  well  with  it;  resisting  drouth  also  but 
more  satisfactory  when  not  required  to  do  so. 

Salpiglossis. — This  plant,  with  its  flowers  strikingly  rich  in  mottled 
and  shaded  coloring  and  veined  in  petals  quite  unusually,  is  a  splendid 
summer  and  fall  bloomer  from  plants  grown  after  spring  frosts. 
The  plant  is  very  airy  and  graceful  in  style  of  leafage  and  flower  stems. 


180  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Scabiosa. — The  old  "grandmother's  pincushion"  has  been  advanced 
in  size  and  in  coloring  until  some  of  the  varieties  are  as  delicately 
beautiful  in  hues  as  anything  in  the  garden  can  attain.  They  are 
very  popular  as  cut  flowers  and  are  advancing  in  commercial  impor- 
tance. The  plants  are  readily  grown  from  seed  after  frost  in  open 
ground,  or  can  be  grown  earlier  for  transplanting.  They  volunteer 
very  readily  and  care  not  whether  growing  in  the  garden  or  by  the 
roadside. 

Schizanthus. — This  is  called  the  butterfly-flower  from  its  orchid- 
like  blossoms.  It  is  of  medium  height,  and  a  mass  of  bloom  but  not 
holding  it  long.  Plants  can  be  readily  grown  in  open  ground  and 
several  sowings  should  be  made  at  intervals  to  continue  blossoming. 
They  enjoy  partial  shade  when  summer  grown,  but  in  most  places 
will  do  well  all  through  the  growing  season. 

Sweet  Peas. — Sweet  peas  are  a  particular  pride  of  California — hor- 
ticulturally,  esthetically  and  commercially,  they  are  notable  in  this  state. 
California  growers  have  not  only  set  the  world's  pace  by  development  of 
new  classes  or  types  and  varieties,  but  they  are  in  the  lead  in  seed 
production,  and  California  grown  seed  is  distributed  around  the  world 
through  wholesale  supplies  grown  for  distant  distributors.  The  literature 
of  the  sweet  pea  is  extensive — many  booklets  having  been  prepared  by 
specialists,  the  latest  by  C.  C.  Morse  &  Co.,  who  have  been  leaders  in  the 
sweet  pea  industry  of  California  for  a  quarter  of  a  century.  The  following 
general  suggestions  are  from  a  brief  statement  written  by  Mr.  Lester  L. 
Morse  several  years  ago,  which  will  do  well  to  awaken  beginners  to  the 
desirability  of  making  sweet  peas  a  particular  feature  of  their  gardens 
and  indicating  what  they  can  easily  do  with  them: 

"Few  flowers  breathe  out  a  more  delightful  perfume,  few  have  greater 
variations  of  color,  and  very  few  are  more  attractive  in  the  garden  or 
more  delightful  in  the  room  than  sweet  peas.  They  fit  in  almost  anywhere 
and  they  fill  in  almost  any  place — they  keep  well,  are  easy  to  grow  and 
easy  to  keep. 

"You  can  have  bloom  in  California  almost  any  time  in  February  by 
planting  the  seed  of  the  early  varieties  in  October  in  a  sheltered  spot. 
Or  you  can  get  a  wealth  of  bloom  of  all  varieties  in  May  by  sowing  the 
seed  in  December  and  letting  the  early  rains  do  the  irrigating  for  you. 
You  can  have  blooms  all  summer  by  planting  at  intervals  all  winter,  but 
the  prettiest  blooms  for  most  of  the  country  are  those  that  come  in  May 
before  the  hot  and  dry  weather  sets  in.  In  foggy  climates  where  the  soil 
is  good,  especially  along  the  sea  coast,  the  .blossoms  are  usually  larger 
and  the  colors  brighter  than  elsewhere.  But  the  sweet  pea  likes  sun  in 
most  of  our  gardens,  and  does  best  in  a  good  open  place  away  from  shade, 
and  they  are  usually  thirsty  and  enjoy  lots  of  water.  The  vines  should 
not  be  sprayed  but  water  should  reach  the  roots;  dig  a  small  trench 


SWEET   PEAS  AND   STOCKS  181 

along  near  the  roots  and  put  the  hose  in  and  let  it  run — then  fill  up  the 
trench  with  dry  dirt  and  let  it  be  for  several  days. 

"The  seed  should  be  planted  thinly  and  about  an  inch  deep  in  a  furrow 
about  four  inches  deep — one  plant  every  six  inches  is  close  enough.  The 
cut  worms  love  young  sprouts,  so  one  should  use  soil  that  has  been  clean 
and  free  from  the  weeds  for  a  season,  if  possible,  as  the  worms  will  be 
less  likely  to  come.  For  a  small  row  of  plants  where  worms  are  known 
to  abound  it  is  well  to  start  the  plants  in  posts  or  boxes  and  transplant 
when  about  four  inches  high — they  are  almost  sure  to  grow  then  if  care 
is  used  in  transplanting. 

"The  tall  or  climbing  sweet  peas  need  strings  or  wire  to  climb  on. 
They  love  a  fence  or  low  shed,  especially  where  there  are  no  shade  trees 
overhead  and  where  it  is  open  and  light.  In  good  rich  soil  with  plenty 
of  light  and  lots  of  water  and  plenty  of  room  the  plants  are  sure  to  be 
strong  and  vigorous  and  the  stems  long.  If  one's  garden  is  large  enough 
it  is  well  to  have  a  trellis  along  a  walk  and  have  a  row  of  sweet  peas  to 
climb  on  it.  A  pretty  border  effect  is  had  by  planting  Cupid  sweet  peas, 
using  one  color  rather  than  mixtures.  They  do  best  in  gravelly  soil 
well  watered  and  fit  in  nicely  along  walk. 

"A  suitable  location  for  tall  sweet  peas  is  not  at  all  adapted  for  Cupids 
and  they  must  be  treated  as  widely  distinct  flowers.  If  you  want  a  mass 
of  bloom  covering  the  ground,  you  need  Cupids.  If  you  want  a  great 
wealth  of  bloom  and  flowers  to  gather,  of  course  you  need  the  tall  of 
climbing  sweet  peas.  There  are  150  different  varieties  and  you  can  have 
them  in  all  shades  of  red  and  blue,  but  as  yet  no  yellow — only  buff  and 
light  primrose.  You  can  have  them  in  stripes  and  blotches,  in  shadings 
and  blendings  and  contrasting  tints,  in  light  shades  and  dark  shades,  in 
soft  tints  and  bright  colors." 

There  are,  of  course,  intensive  arts  of  deep  tillage,  manuring,  etc.,  by 
which  the  very  largest  thing  in  exhibition  sweet  peas  is  produced,  but 
that  is  a  little  beyond  our  reach.  If  one  catches  that  fervor  he  will 
pursue  the  subject  through  the  professional  publication. 

Snapdragons. — These  old-fashioned  flowers  are  grown  by  many  as 
a  reminder  of  old  times,  though  some  of  the  improved  varieties  show 
them  to  be  flowers  of  today.  The  plants  can  be  sown  in  the  open  after 
the  ground  gets  well  warmed,  and  there  will  be  a  good  summer  growth, 
followed  by  autumn  and  winter  bloom  also  in  many  places. 

Stocks. — Stocks  are  grown  by  many  with  very  satisfactory  results, 
but  are  often  abandoned  by  amateurs  who  fail  to  give  them  the  required 
attention  or  start  from  inferior  seed.  Disappointment  results  from  so 
many  seedlings  coming  single,  but  these  should  not  be  nursed  as  a  griev- 
ance but  pulled  up  and  attention  concentrated  on  plants  of  good  type  of 
bloom.  This  is  now  attainable  in  a  great  variety  of  colors,  and  the  plants 
are  hardy,  easy  to  start  in  the  open  ground  in  the  spring,  although  better 


182  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

satisfaction  generally  comes  from  transplanting  from  seed  boxes.  Bloom 
will  come  the  first  season  and  many  kinds  hold  over  for  a  second  year's 
bloom,  but  they  require  cutting  back  or  they  become  ragged  and  unsightly. 

Sweet  William. — This  is  a  dianthus  and  is  separated  from  the 
"pinks"  above  because  of  its  different  style  of  foliage  and  bloom — but  the 
plant  is  being  improved  so  that  the  contrast  seems  less.  The  new  sweet 
williams  bloom  in  a  few  months,  instead  of  going  over  to  the  second  season 
and  the  bloom  is  much  larger  and  more  significantly  marked.  As  they  are 
hardy  they  may  be  planted  in  the  fall  for  spring  bloom  and  in  the  spring 
for  fall  and  early  winter  bloom.  It  is  more  satisfactory  to  grow  in  boxes 
for  planting  out  than  to  start  in  the  open,  though  that  is  possible,  especially 
with  the  spring  start. 

Sunflowers. — Sunflowers  of  the  ornamental  class  are  becoming 
more  popular  even  in  a  state  where  the  native  vegetation  of  the  great 
valleys  during  the  summer  is  largely  helianthus  species.  The  new 
varieties  are  very  floriferous,  widely  different  in  stature  and  in  style 
of  blossom,,  'but  all,  of  course,  yellow  of  the  brightest  hues.  They  are 
serving  ia  good  purpose  for  cutting  for  decoration  as  well  as  gilding 
the  vistas  in  large  gardens. 

Verbenas. — Verbenas  spread  over  the  ground  rapidly  in  California, 
endure  considerable  drouth,  though  less  handsome  thereby,  and  accept 
all  temperatures  except  in  very  frosty  places.  They  do  not,  however, 
forget  their  enjoyment  of  warmth  and  welcome  the  early  summer 
with  their  heaviest  bloom  if  they  have  fairly  good  soil  to  do  it  with. 
Plants  are  ready  grown  from  cuttings,  from  running  stems  which  sur- 
face root  themselves  and  from  seed.  A  good  planting  of  seedlings 
from  small  pots  makes  the  best  foundation  for  a  quick  and  uniform 
mass  effect.  There  are  a  number  of  notable,  well  marked  color  crea- 
tions in  verbenas  offered.  Personally  we  get  most  satisfaction  from 
a  solid-colored,  light  purple  which  is  very  thrifty  and  contented  in 
full  sunshine  in  rather  a  hot  exposure  and  keeps  up  foliage  and  bloom 
all  winter  also. 

Violets. — Probably  all  the  improved  violets  have  found  their  way 
to  California  and  all  find  a  congenial  home  and  full  appreciation.  San 
Francisco  has  almost  a  continuous  supply  of  violets  and  the  growers 
have  all  the  popular  varieties.  Violets  will  make  good  until  growth 
and  bloom  in  the  open  air  may  be  allowed  to  almost  disappear  toward 
the  end  of  the  summer  to  revive  with  the  first  rains  to  a  new  season 
of  drouth  and  bloom.  But  it  is  not  well  to  submit  the  plant  to  too 
much  stress.  They  should  have  water  enough  to  keep  in  good  life 
during  the  dry  season.  Although  they  will  accept  rather  a  poor  soil, 
they  ought  to  have  at  least  moderate  manuring,  though  excess  induces 
too  much  leaf  growth.  To  get  flowers  early  from  active  plants,  the 
runners  should  be  removed. 


VIOLETS   AND  WALLFLOWERS  183 

Violets  root  readily  from  running  stems  or  from  divided  roots, 
all  through  the  growing  season,  but  establishment  is  best  undertaken 
in  the  spring  or  early  in  the  autumn.  Such  plants  make  large,  bloom- 
ing clumps  in  the  open  air  in  California,  just  as  they  do  under  the  semi- 
protected  frames  at  the  East.  If  the  plants  are  allowed  to  take  a 
summer  rest  all  the  litter  should  be  raked  off  and  the  surface  between 
the  rows  loosened  to  get  the  full  benefits  of  the  early  rains  and 
insure  the  wealth  of  holiday  blooming.  As  the  picking  thereof  must 
continue  during  the  rains  the  writer  has  found  it  most  convenient  to  grow 
the  plants  as  a  narrow  border  along  hard  walks,  to  avoid  stepping  on 
rain-softened  ground.  The  very  large,  single,  deep  blue  and  long- 
stemmed  violets  are  most  popular.  The  variety  called  "California," 
which  is  really  a  re-named  Frenchman,  is  largely  grown,  but  others 
of  similar  characters  but  with  a  wider-flaring  flower,  like  the  Princess 
of  Wales,  are  probably  superior.  Of  the  doubles  the  Marie  Louise, 
medium  purplish,  with  unique  red  fleck  in  the  center,  has  long  been 
a  favorite,  for  foliage,  flower  and  stem.  The  old  Neapolitan,  very 
light  lavender  and  very  floriferous,  has  been  discarded  largely  for 
scant  foliage  and  short  stems.  The  writer  highly  esteems  Lady 
Hume-Campbell,  as  it  has  Marie  Louise  character  of  foliage  and  stem 
and  bloom  of  lighter  hue,  though  darker  than  the  Neapolitan.  For 
double-white  the  Swanley  still  probably  remains  the  best,  but  all 
whites  are  neglected. 

Wallflowers. — These  flowers  of  our  grandmothers  are  still  widely 
esteemed  and  in  California  are  very  satisfactory.  Their  unique  colors 
are  not  fully  assumed  by  any  other  plant  and  their  rich,  clean  foliage 
is  always  delightful  to  gaze  upon.  But  one  cannot  get  the  fullest  joy 
from  wallflowers  which  are  neglected — patent  as  they  are  under  it. 
Their  low  shrub-like  growth  only  does  its  best  by  pruning  system- 
atically to  remove  spent-shoots,  when  there  is  no  frost  to  remove  it. 
and  to  encourage  new  growth,  and  they  should  not  be  allowed  to 
famish  for  water  in  trying  to  make  it.  A  little  piece  of  brick  or 
stone  wall,  and  its  wallflowers  before  it,  will  probably  always  remain 
a  joy  in  an  amateur's  garden  and  in  California  the  joy  is  not  of  a 
fleeting  summer  but  of  the  year  in  places  where  frosts  are  light.  The 
plants  come  readily  from  sowing  in  the  open  after  frost  or  may  be 
box-grown  for  transplanting — blooms  coming  the  first  year  and  ever 
afterward. 

Zinnias. — Zinnias  are  the  delight  of  the  beginner  from  childhood 
upward,  so  easy,  rapid  and  showy  they  are.  They  are  also  useful  to 
more  experienced  gardeners,  for  they  have  such  a  wide  range  of  colors 
so  freely  displayed.  They  are,  however,  quite  sensitive  to  frost,  and 
to  get  the  best  of  their  annual  character  the  plants  should  be  started 
early  under  cover  and  transplanted  as  soon  as  safe  in  the  particular 
place  chosen  for  them. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
BULBS,  TUBERS  AND  ROOTS. 

The  plants  next  to  be  discussed  are  as  well  entitled  to  be  classed  as 
herbaceous  as  those  considered  in  the  preceding  chapter.  They  are 
separated  from  their  allies  for  convenience,  because  they  make  their 
top  growth  not  from  a  seed  but  from  a  resting  stage  in  a  bulb,  which 
is  an  underground  dormant  bud  in  which  the  plant  has  established  the 
potentiality  of  further  growth  or  of  flowering  and  stored  food  for  it; 
or  in  a  tuber,  which  is  a  thickened  stem  or  root  or  both;  or  in  corms, 
root-stocks,  etc.,  of  less  distinctly  rounded  forms — all  performing  a 
similar  office  in  carrying  several  dormant  buds  and  the  food  supplies 
with  which  they  may  begin  subsequent  growths.  Amateurishly  at 
least,  it  may  be  suggested  that  there  is  some  analogy  between  the 
growth  of  the  plants  from  all  these  forms,  and  from  the  seeds,  which 
the  plants  also  produce,  and  therefore  resembles  the  propagating  of 
other  plants  from  seeds  or  from  buds  and  grafts — as  outlined  in 
Chapters  VI,  VII  and  VIII.  Bulbs,  tubers  and  roots  are  parts  of  the 
old  plant  and  reproduce  it  exactly;  seeds  from  bulbous  or  tuberous 
plants  have  the  same  tendency  to  variation,  natural  or  artificially  pro- 
duced, that  is  involved  in  other  seeds — greater  or  less  according  to 
conditions  and  circumstances. 

California  Conditions  for  Bulb  Growing. — Probably  the  botanists 
would  support  a  contention  that  California  has  exceptional  conditions 
for  bulbous  plants  because  of  the  many  and  uniquely  fine  native  plants 
which  have  that  character  of  growth.  The  florists'  trade  demonstrates 
the  world's  view  of  California  native  bulbs  by  the  demand,  which  has 
been  developed  from  a  little  half-amateur  collection  and  distribution 
to  a  well  organized  business.  The  resident  and  traveling  plant-lovers 
proclaim  the  fact  with  characteristic  exclamations,  while  the  enthusi- 
astic amateur  gardeners  have  pitted  the  state  with  prospect-holes  for 
bulbs  more  abundantly  than  the  miners  ever  did  for  gold.  But  proper 
recognition  of  this  subject  does  not  rest  with  us:  it  belongs  with  the 
botanists,  the  poets  and  the  commercial  collectors.  We  enjoy  it  all, 
as  an  enthusiastic  amateur  should,  but  we  do  not  try  to  teach  either 
facts  or  significance  of  it. 

From  the  gardening  point  of  view  it  is,  however,  clear  that  our 
vast  wealth  of  native  bulbs  is  being  transferred  to  California  gardens 
more  abundantly  and  successfully  than  hitherto,  because  the  com- 
mercial collectors  are  each  year  making  supplies  more  available  and 
are  distributing  excellent  suggestions  as  to  how  the  conditions  to 
which  these  plants  are  born  can  be  simulated  in  our  gardens,  and  some 


EASTER  LILIES   IN   CALIFORNIA  185 

of  these  may  be  cited  later  in  connection  with  mention  of  plants  to 
which  they  belong.  But  the  fact  which  is  more  closely  related  to 
our  task  is  that  bulbs  from  everywhere  in  the  world  are  becoming 
wonderfully  popular  in  our  California  gardening  policy;  our  leading 
California  seedsmen  issue  special  bulb-catalogues  which  all  should 
secure  and  study,  and  bulbous  flowering  plants  are  now  displayed  in 
abundance  in  city,  suburban  and  rural  gardens  where  a  decade  ago 
their  appearance  was  exceptional.  These  facts  are  all  significant  in 
their  demonstration  that  these  plants  are  eminently  desirable  and 
their  culture  is  within  ordinary  gardening  skill  and  patience.  Below 
all  this  is,  however,  the  fundamental  fact  that  California  valleys  and 
foothills  have  really  no  closed-season  for  bulbs;  that  the  "spring- 
flowering"  bulbs  of  wintry  climates  may  begin  open-air  bloom  in 
December  and  continue  until  May;  that  "summer-flowering"  bulbs 
may  spread  their  gorgeous  colors  from  May  until  November;  that 
while  we  not  only  lose  no  desirability  that  may  inhere  in  pot-grown 
bulbs  for  portability  and  decoration,  but  really  can  secure  this  with  a 
fraction  of  the  care  and  cost  which  is  required  in  wintry  climates,  there 
is  added  to  this  the  more  important  advantage  of  growing  the  same 
bulbs  in  the  open  ground  and  air  at  the  same  times  of  the  year. 

What  Easter  Lilies  Say  of  California. — It  is  thus  made  clear,  from 
the  course  of  the  floral  trade  and  from  common  observation  in  amateur 
gardens,  that  California  has  exceptional  natural  endowment  for  delight 
in  bulbs.  Perhaps  an  authoritative  declaration  from  the  highest 
national  authority  may  also  be  appreciated  by  distant  readers  who 
cannot  see  the  common  facts  which  have  been  cited.  Take  then  the 
Easter  lily  for  a  test,  because  to  have  the  name  it  must  be  in  bloom 
at  Easter,  and  that  in  ordinary  northern  latitudes  is  impossible  to 
realize  in  the  open  air.  But  in  California  experiments  were  tried 
under  the  supervision  of  George  W.  Oliver,  bulb  specialist  of  the 
United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  of  which  the  record*  gives 
the  following  concrete  facts:  "Fred  Rafferty  of  Santa  Ana  bloomed 
a  large  number  of  the  hybridized  seedlings  of  the  lilies  giganteum  and 
harrisii.  Although  the  seedlings  were  only  about  three  inches  high  in 
June,  1906,  some  of  them  had  twenty-eight  flowers  in  June,  1907.  Such 
plants  can  be  depended  on  to  give  bulbs  of  salable  size  the  first  year. 
The  crop  is  ready  for  harvesting  in  August  and  the  smaller  bulbs, 
when  replanted  soon  after  harvesting  grow  much  better  than  the  im- 
ported material." 

It  is  true  that  this  does  not  verify  open-air  blooming  at  Easter,  but 
that  is  a  fact  nevertheless,  in  many  places  with  high  winter  tem- 
perature, although  house-grown  plants  are  the  surety  of  being  in  time 


*The  Production  of  Easter  Lily  Bulbs  in  the  United  States:    Bulletin   120,  Bureau 
of  Plant  Industry,  U.   S.   Dept.  Agr.,   1908. 


186  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

in  most  places  in  California  where  they  are  commercially  grown.  But 
the  statement  of  Mr.  Oliver  has  a  wider  significance  in  that  it  dem- 
onstrates the  length  of  the  California  growing  season,  which  brings 
a  mass  of  flowers  from  the  bulb  within  a  year  from  the  time  it  started 
from  a  seed,  and,  of  course,  it  does  that  because  the  winter  months  are 
included  in  its  open-air  growing  season.  This  is  cited  as  a  demonstra- 
tion of  the  fact.  In  common  garden  practice,  which  will  be  described 
later,  these  flowers  are  best  grown  from  bulbs,  which  is  the  form  in 
which  the  florists  offer  them  for  sale.  And  such  bulbs  planted  early 
in  the  rainy  season  in  proper  places  are  the  ones  which  bring  the 
Easter  blooms  in  the  open  air. 

HINTS  ON  BULB  GROWING. 

Although,  as  indicated,  we  have  an  ever-growing  climate  for  bulbs 
and  therefore  more  latitude  than  those  who  have  to  work  with  short, 
changing  seasons,  it  is  still  true  that  great  advantage  pertains  to  doing 
things  at  the  right  times  and  the  right  time  to  plant  a  bulb  is  just  as 
soon  as  the  growing  conditions,  which  best  suit  it,  arrive.  This  is 
what  is  meant  by  all  exhortations  to  "plant  early'';  it  is  early  for  the 
bulb,  not  by  the  calendar.  For  instance,  by  the  ordinary  use  of  the 
calendar,  January  would  be  early  and  September  would  be  late;  but, 
by  the  daffodil,  September  is  early  and  January  is  late — in  fact  very 
late  indeed,  for  then  some  of  the  same  class  will  be  in  bloom  from 
early  planting.  Each  group  of  bulbs  of  similar  tastes  has  its  own 
requirement  of  conditions  for  activity,  which  may  be  the  shooting  of 
roots  or  of  flower-stems  or  of  opening  blossoms  or  of  finishing  its 
growth  by  sending  down  food,  for  its  own  refreshment  or  the  building 
of  its  bulblets.  Each  bulb  is  therefore  busy  with  making  roots  for 
some  time  before  one  sees  its  leaves  and  busy  making  canned-food  for 
some  time  after  its  blossoms  have  faded.  If  it  remains  in  the  ground 
for  several  years  together,  as  most  bulbs  do  successfully  in  our  frost- 
free  soil,  it  will  take  care  of  its  own  growing  season,  but  if  one  desires 
to  replant  bulbs  or  to  put  in  new  bulbs  from  the  dealers,  it  should  be 
done  as  nearly  as  possible  at  the  time  when  that  kind  of  bulb  would 
begin  making  roots  if  it  had  been  undisturbed.  Again,  though  the 
planter  has  some  privilege  in  the  way  of  getting  somewhat  later 
blooms  by  planting  bulbs  at  different  dates,  he  is  apt  to  lose  in  con- 
dition more  than  he  gains  in  time,  because  the  bulb  will  be  disposed  to 
hurry  to  make  up  for  lost  time  and  will  not  have  as  good  roots  below 
or  as  good  bloom  above  as  when  it  can  take  its  full  time  to  do  its  work. 
Therefore  it  is  better  to  plant  about  when  it  is  natural  for  that  bulb 
to  begin  and  rely,  for  a  succession  of  fine  flowers  in  the  bulb  beds, 
upon  the  fact  that  some  kinds  of  bulbs  require  more  time  than  others 
to  make  flowers,  rather  than  to  try  to  force  an  early  bloomer  to  bloom 


HINTS   ON   BULB-GROWING  187 

late.  Fortunately  we  have  so  many  bulbs,  which  enjoy  different  parts 
of  the  California  year,  that  it  is  quite  possible  to  have  an  unbroken 
succession  and  still  have  each  flower  at  its  best.  Still  we  actually  have 
a  very  long  planting  season  for  bulbs,  as  we  have  for  other  kinds  of 
plants,  as  indicated  in  the  suggestions  of  monthly  work  in  Chapter 
XII,  and  it  is  possible  to  plant  winter-flowering  bulbs  from  September 
to  November  and  get  a  succession;  all  being  from  relatively  early 
plantings. 

Soil  for  Bulbs. — Another  set  of  conditions  to  arrange  for  is  those 
of  the  soil.  Practically  all  bulbs  demand  soil  conditions  like  those  de- 
scribed on  pages  25  to  31.  Possibly  most  of  them  are  more  exacting 
of  proper  conditions  of  warmth  and  absence  of  surplus  water  than 
many  other  plants  are,  because  their  large  masses  of  food-substances 
are  more  liable  to  fermentation  and  decay  than  are  the  tissues  of 
fibrous-rooted  plants.  Certainly  most  of  them  are  very  ill-placed  in 
cold  mud,  because  their  growth  processes  are  arrested;  and  some  of 
them  will  grow  in  water  which  is  at  60°  and  decay  in  water-soaked  soil 
at  40°.  Therefore  do  not  plant  bulbs  in  low  wet  places  unless  you  hap- 
pen to  know  that  the  particular  bulb  or  fleshy  root  is  of  semi-aquatic 
habit. 

Planting  Bulbs. — As  a  rule  a  good  deal  of  sand  is  a  good  component 
of  a  bulb  bed,  because  it  helps  the  access  of  warm  air  and  ensures  the 
escape  of  surplus  water.  This  is  the  reason  why  it  is  frequently  pre- 
scribed that  a  little  sand  be  placed  in  the  bottom  of  a  hole  prepared 
for  a  bulb  and  some  add  a  little  coarsely  powdered  charcoal,  which  is 
believed  to  have  a  tendency  to  prevent  decay. 

But  we  do  not  believe  it  is  best  to  plant  a  bulb  in  a  hole  made  by 
trowel  or  dibble.  We  prefer  to  plant  in  a  trench  opened  with  a  hoe, 
or,  if  very  deep  planting  is  required,  as  with  some  of  the  lilies,  with  a 
spade.  One  can  then  see  the  whole  line;  the  depth  is  more  easily  made 
uniform;  the  sand  or  coal  ashes  (page  28)  can  be  evenly  distributed; 
the  bulbs  can  be  placed  at  uniform  distances  and  pressed  down  into 
close  contact  with  the  sandy  bed.  The  first  soil  used  in  filling  should 
be  pressed  down  around  the  bulbs  and  the  covering  lightly  disposed. 
This  is  what  our  experience  approves  as  planting  bulbs  in  a  workman- 
like manner. 

Depth  in  planting  bulbs  is  a  very  important  consideration  and  im- 
possible to  determine  by  direct  prescription,  although  suggestions  in 
that  line  will  be  given  later.  It  is  really  a  matter  to  be  rationally 
decided  in  accordance  with  the  character  of  the  bulb  and  the  soil, 
remembering  that  the  tendency  of  the  bulbs,  as  they  cluster  by  off- 
sets, is  to  crowd  upwards.  For  the  security  of  moisture  supply  and  to 
escape  the  heat  and  compacting  of  the  immediate  surface,  bulbs  should 
be  well-covered  and  the  addition  of  manure  and  mulching,  which  will 


188  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

be  mentioned  later,  is  desirable  toward  that  end.  Depth  of  planting 
bulbs,  as  related  to  the  character  of  the  soil,  is  analogous  to  that  dis- 
cussed for  seeds  on  page  58.  An  arbitrary  rule  often  cited  is  that  the 
depth  below  the  surface  should  be  twice  the  greater  diameter  of  the 
bulb — that  is,  measured  vertically  if  it  is  a  tall  bulb,  like  a  narcissus; 
or  measured  horizontally,  if  it  is  a  flat  bulb  or  corm,  like  a  gladiolus. 
If  one  must  have  a  rule,  perhaps  this  is  as  good  as  any  for  a  well- 
made  garden  soil,  as  discussed  in  Chapter  III,  but  the  depth  should  be 
greater  on  light,  sandy  soils  and  less  on  heavy  soils,  likely  to  be  cold 
and  wet — and  so  reasoning  becomes  indispensable.  In  determining  the 
depth  of  planting,  distance  should  be  measured  from  the  top  of  the 
bulb  to  the  ground  surface,  and  not  from  the  base  of  the  bulb. 

Garden-Places  for  Bulbs. — Although  scattered  clusters  of  bulbs 
can  be  effectively  used  in  borders  of  mixed  flowers  or  put  in  singly 
here  and  there  is  you  like,  the  most  rational  way  is  to  grow  them  in 
beds  or  borders  by  themselves  so  that  you  can  arrange  for  their  rest 
or  activity  without  compromising  with  other  growths  in  some  way. 
Of  course  you  can  make  a  great  front-lawn  display  with  bulbs  in  suc- 
cession or  you  can  transplant  other  plants  to  take  the  places  of  bulbs 
as  they  mature  and  to  conceal  their  decrepitude  when  they  are  neces- 
sarily in  the  sere  and  yellow  leaf,  but  unless  you  have  an  unusual 
amount  of  leisure  you  will  have  to  hire  a  gardener,  and  that  throws 
you  out  of  our  class  of  working  amateurs. 

Our  choice  is  to  locate  the  bulb-areas  in  the  rear  yard  or  at  the 
side  and  not  to  rely  upon  them  to  please  the  passer  on  the  highway, 
except  as  he  may  catch  vistas  of  them  between  and  beneath  the  trees — 
although  we  have  had  very  good  success  with  them  along  the  sec- 
ondary walks  through  the  fruit  trees,  just  back  of  the  violet  edgings. 
In  this  way  they  stray  into  and  out  of  sight  from  the  street  and  do 
not  flash  boldly  into  view. 

In  their  own  areas  we  prefer  to  grow  bulbs  in  straight  rows — not 
less  than  a  foot  and  a  half  between  the  rows,  so  that  one  can  freely 
hoe  up  and  down  the  rows;  or  in  curves,  if  you  like,  providing  good 
hoeing  space  is  given.  It  is  a  mistake  to  put  them  in  fantastic  figures 
or  to  jumble  them  up  and  thus  make  cultivation  always  dangerous,  if 
not  impossible.  In  the  well  separated  rows,  the  bulbs  should  not  be 
set  too  thickly.  The  dealers  usually  give  wide  range  in  their  sug- 
gestions as,  for  instance,  "from  six  to  twelve  inches  apart."  We 
•always  take  the  greater  distance  when  a  range  is  given.  The  seeds- 
man cannot  be  blamed  for  trying  to  help  the  amateur,  who  has  small 
space  to  get  in  as  many  dozen  bulbs  as  possible.  So  many  bulbs 
should  be  left  undisturbed  for  several  years,  and  they  show  their  joy 
of  it  by  making  such  a  large  clump,  that  it  is  a  mistake  to  set  them 
too  thickly  at  the  beginning. 


SUMMER   TREATMENT   OF   BULBS  189 

Another  reason  for  growing  bulb  beds  out  of  main  sight  is  that 
one  feels  freer  to  use  the  mulches  which  are  of  great  advantage  both 
winter  and  summer.  After  planting  spring  bulbs  in  the  fall  a  ground- 
cover  of  dead  leaves,  rotten  straw  or  old  coarse  manure  will  prevent 
surface-packing  by  heavy  rains,  and  mulching  is  also  good  for  summer 
and  fall  bloomers,  because  it  holds  moisture  from  flying  away  and 
helps  to  get  full  duty  from  irrigation  water.  Fresh  manure  should  be 
used  very  thinly,  if  at  all;  it  is  not  usually  good  for  the  growth  of 
bulbs. 

Summer  Treatment  of  Winter  Blooming  Bulbs. — Still  another 
reason  for  not  making  bulb  plantations  too  prominent  is  the  fact  that 
the  leaf  growth  after  blooming  should  be  allowed  to  mature  in  a 
natural  way  because  this  foliage  is  still  discharging  its  function  of 
storing  food  in  the  bulb  for  its  next  blooming  or  for  the  growth  of  its 
offsets.  When  the  top  dries  down,  this  work  is  complete  and  the  rub- 
bish may  be  raked  off,  or  allowed  to  remain  prostrate  as  a  mulch  or 
cover  to  check  evaporation. 

And  that  leads  to  the  remark  that  the  proper  dormancy,  which  a 
bulb  should  have  after  its  top-growth  dies,  is  not  desiccation.  In  our 
dry  summer  climate  too  much  emphasis  is  sometimes  placed  upon 
withholding  water  from  ground  containing  dormant  bulbs.  The  advice 
may  be  good  to  some  native  bulbs  which  are  born  to  hard-drying,  but 
all  others  do  not  prosper  by  it.  Many  of  the  bulbs  we  grow  are  native 
to  moist  climates  where  there  are  summer  rains  after  blooming,  or  to 
moist  soils  in  our  own  state.  Therefore  do  not  let  the  soil  dry  out 
and  bake  like  a  rock.  Loosen  the  surface  a  little  after  blooming,  cover 
with  a  mulch  and  put  on  a  little  water  once  in  a  while,  unless  you  see 
that  the  soil  is  prevented  from  becoming  absolutely  dry  through  some 
natural  soil-moisture  movement  or  through  lateral  seepage  from  ad- 
jacent irrigated  areas. 

But  the  surface  soil  over  the  resting  bulbs  need  not  be  left  to  itself 
nor  covered  only  with  a  neat  mulch.  It  is  quite  possible  to  grow 
shallow-rooting  covering  plants  and  the  occasional  summer  watering 
given  these  plants  will  keep  the  soil  right  for  the  bulbs.  When  the 
spent  foliage  of  the  winter  and  spring  flowering  bulbs  is  cleared  away, 
give  the  surface  a  good  raking  and  scatter  the  seed  of  mignonette, 
nasturtiums,  summer  poppies,  or  some  other  rapid  summer-grower 
which  you  like.  The  bed  becomes  a  summer  ornament  and  can  be 
enjoyed  until  September  or  October,  when  everything  ought  to  be 
raked  clean  and  a  thin  covering  of  good  manure  spread  to  be  leached 
out  by  the  fall  rains.  It  is  of  course  possible  to  scatter  seeds  with 
this  fall  working  and  thus  bring  up  eschscholtzias  or  other  winter 
bloomers.  The  writer  really  enjoys  the  California  poppy  foliage 


190  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

among  the  stiff  narcissus  leaves,  but  it  would  probably  be  better  to 
grow  plants  like  alyssum,  nemophila,  etc.,  which  do  not  root  so  deeply 
as  the  poppies. 

Shall  the  Bulbs  Be  Undisturbed? — All  these  suggestions  are  based 
upon  the  affirmation  that  the  bulbs  shall  be  given  their  special  places 
and  should  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  to  take  their  resting. 
We  are  convinced  that  such  is  the  proper  treatment  for  nearly  all  the 
bulbs  the  working  amateur  is  likely  to  grow — only  digging  them  up 
once  in  three  to  five  years  to  separate  and  replant  singly  the  bunched- 
bulbs  which  will  be  crowding  each  other.  Some  modification  of  this 
suggestion  may  occur  in  the  later  discussion  of  particular  plants. 

Protection  for  Bulbs. — Although  dormant  bulbs  -are  reasonably  free 
from  injury  by  ground-vermin,  one  must  always  be  on  the  guard 
against  gophers,  which  seem  to  have  an  appetite  for  bulbs  which  in- 
creases with  the  price  you  pay  for  them.  One  may  conclude  that 
he  has  no  gophers  on  the  place  until  he  buys  a  lot  of  costly  lily  bulbs 
— which  are  cake  to  them,  -although  they  will  eat  others  also.  To 
make  a  bed  for  a  small  bunch  of  bulbs  you  may  do  as  advised  for 
carnations  on  page  151.  To  protect  a  larger  bed,  dig  a  trench  all 
around  it  eighteen  inches  deep.  Take  3-ft.  chicken  fence  netting,  one- 
inch  mesh,  and  cut  it  lengthwise  into  two  strips  eighteen  inches  wide. 
Stand  this  up  against  one  side  of  the  trench  with  the  selvage  up  and 
the  jagged  wire-ends  down.  Fill  in  the  trench  so  that  the  selvage  will 
be  just  out  of  sight  under  the  surface.  Gophers  cannot  get  through  it 
and  efforts  to  dig  under  cause  the  wire-ends  to  catch  in  their  backs. 
Such  wire  is,  however,  of  rather  short  life  through  rusting.  A  Fresno 
grower  makes  a  permanent  barrier  around  bulb-beds  by  digging  a 
trench  around  the  bed  and  filling  it  up  with  tin  cans,  bottles,  broken 
dishes,  etc.  These  things  should  be  buried  anyhow,  for  it  is  abom- 
inable to  load  them  on  a  wagon  and  dump  them  at  a  distance  on  the 
roadside  because  of  laziness. 

BULBS  CHIEFLY  COMMENDED  IN  CALIFORNIA. 

We  do  not  assume  the  function  of  specifying  what  bulbs  an  ama- 
teur should  grow.  We  would  probably  differ  in  tastes,  and  besides  we 
are  not  sure  if  we  would  choose  the  same  bulbs  if  working  in  places 
different  from  that  in  which  our  experience  and  observation  chiefly  lie. 
We  shall  try  to  indicate,  rather,  the  bulbs  which  our  various  sources 
of  information  commend  for  California  and  advise  the  beginner  to  go 
to  it  arid  decide  for  himself  which  bulbs  best  suit  his  conditions  of 
climate,  soil  and  moisture,  his  moods  and  his  money. 

What  to  do  with  the  various  bulbs  and  when  to  do  it,  may  appear 
in  connection  with  the  comments  on  the  bulbs  which  will  be  men- 
tioned later.  Suggestions  will  also  be  found  among  the  details  for 


BULBS    MOST    POPULAR   IN    CALIFORNIA 


191 


monthly  work  in  Chapter 
with  the  various  approved 
lows: 

Depth  to 

plant* 

Kind  (inches) 

Agapanthus    4  to  6 

Allium     3 

Amaryllis     2  to  4 

Anemone  (spring)    1  to  2 

(fall)      2  to  4 

Begonia    (tuberous)     ...  ^2   to   1 

Callas     2  to  4 

C'annas     4  to  6 

Crocus    2  to  4 

Cyclamen     1 

Dahlias     2  to  3 

Freesias    1  to  3 

Gladiolus      3  to  4 

"         dwarf   2  to  3 

Hyacinths    4  to  5 

Iris    3  to  4 

Ixias 2 

Lilies   5  to  8 

Lily  of  yalley    2  to  3 

Montbretia    1 

Narcissus    3  to  5 

Oxalis     2 

Ranunculus    2  to  4 

Snowdrops    2 

Sparaxis    2 

Tigridias    2  to  4 

Tuberose     4 

Tulips    3  to  4 

Watsonias    3  to  6 


XII.     Data  concerning  methods  and  times 
bulbs,  tubers  and  roots  are  tabulated  as  fol- 


Distance 

apart 
(inches) 
24 

3 
12 

6  to     8 
12 
12 
24 
24  to  48 

4  to     8 
12 
24  to  48 

4  to     6 

8  to  10 


to 


6 

6  to 
10 

3 
12 
12 

3 

8  to  12 

4 

8  to  10 

4 

3  to     6 

4  to     8 
8 

6  to     8 
8  to  12 


to     6 


Time  to  plant 


Oct. 

Jan. 

Sept. 

Oct. 

Jan. 

Apr. 

Sept. 

Mar. 

Oct. 

Oct. 

May 

Sept. 

Feb. 

Oct. 

Oct. 

Aug. 

Oct. 

Oct. 

Oct. 

Oct. 

Oct. 

Aug. 

Oct. 

Sept. 

Oct. 

Mar. 

Jan. 

Oct. 

Sept. 


to   Feb. 
to  Mar. 


Jtm. 

Dec. 


to  Jan. 
to  Mar. 
to  May 
to  Feb. 
to  Apr. 
to  Jan. 

to  Aug. 
to  Oct. 
to 
to 
to  Jan. 
to  Feb. 
to  Jan. 
to  Dec. 
to  Feb. 
to  M'ar. 
to  Jan. 
to  Sept. 
to  Jan. 
to  Oct. 
to  Jan. 
to  Apr. 
to  Feb. 
to  Jan. 
to  Oct. 


Bloom 

July   to    Sept. 
Apr.  to  May 
June  to  Aug. 
Dec.  to  Mar. 
Oct.  to   Dec. 
Aug.  to   Sept. 
Apr.    to   Aug. 
July  to  Aug. 
Dec.  to  Feb. 
Apr.    to   May 
July  to   Oct. 
Dec.  to  Jan. 

Sily  to  Oct. 
ay  to  June 
Feb.  to  Apr. 
Mar.  to  June 
Apr.  to  May 
Apr.  to  June 
Mar.  to  Apr. 
May  to  July 
Dec.  to  Apr. 
Dec.  to  Apr. 
Dec.  to  Mar. 
Dec.  to  Feb. 
Apr.  to  May 
May  to  July 
May  to  June 
Mar.  to  Apr. 
Apr.  to  Sept. 


Suggestions  of  desirable  characters  in  the  plants  thus  enumerated 
and  particular  methods  employed  in  the  growing  of  each  may  be  cited 
as  follows: 

Agapanthus. — This  is  often  called  the  "blue  African  lily" — a  large 
plant  remaining  in  place  indefinitely  and  sending  up  each  summer  and 
autumn  stout  stems  crowned  with  clusters  of  bright  blue  flowers  at  a 
time  when  other  bloom  is  scarce.  The  foliage  consists  of  dark  green 
short  swords  with  rounded  ends;  thick,  glossy  and  evergreen.  Our 
plant  has  been  in  the  center  of  a  bulb-bed  for  twenty  years  and  has 
always  been  admired.  By  outward  extension  it  now  forms  a  circle 
nearly  four  feet  in  diameter,  around  an  open  center  which  it  chooses 
not  to  occupy.  It  is  well  adapted  to  prominence  on  a  lawn,  where  a 
low  plant  is  desired.  The  plant  is  very  hardy  and  will  endure  dark 
shadows  and  hard  ground  if  necessary. 

Alliums. — Two  members  of  the  onion  family  are  quite  largely  grown 
in  the  open  air,  though  chiefly  grown  in  pots  elsewhere.  They  are  low 
plants  with  rather  scant  foliage,  sending  up  a  flower-ball  on  a  tender 


*Depth  is  counted  from  top  of  bulb  to  surface  of  ground. 


192  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

stem.  One  has  a  yellow  bloom.  The  other,  which  is  better  known,  is 
Allium  Neapolitanum,  an  early  flowering  bulb.  The  white  flowers  are 
produced  in  large  umbels  about  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  high.  Very 
little  care  is  required  in  its  cultivation. 

Amaryllis. — Amaryllids  are  in  two  classes,  which  may  be  popularly 
distinguished  from  the  fact  that  one,  the  common  "belladonna  lily," 
sends  up  a  flower  stem  after  the  foliage  has  disappeared,  or  it  may  be 
said  to  bloom  before  the  foliage  appears — the  former  being  probably 
the  more  correct  statement,  for  the  bloom  must  be  the  work  of  the 
preceding  and  not  the  following  foliage-effort.  The  bloom  appears  in 
midsummer  and  is  gorgeous,  in  its  rose-pink  profusion  of  lily-like 
flowers  on  a  stout,  dark  stem  which  has  force  enough  to  uplift  hard, 
dry  ground,  but  should  not  be  required  to  do  so,  for  the  soil  should 
be  kept  reasonably  moist  after  the  foliage  dries  and  disappears  in  June. 
Generally  in  the  month  of  September,  and  after  the  flowers  wilt  and 
decay,  the  bulb  begins  its  growth,  and  grows  through  the  winter  and 
spring  months.  If  it  is  desired  to  move  and  divide  the  bulbs  it  should 
be  done  in  September  and  October.  Immediately  after  the  flowers 
wilt,  'and  before  any  growth  starts,  take  them  up,  divide  and  replant 
and  they  will  go  ahead  and  grow  their  foliage  and  form  a  dormant 
flower  bud  for  the  following  summer,  and  when  the  time  comes,  they 
will  bloom  as  though  nothing  had  happened.  They  cannot  be  moved 
at  any  other  time  of  the  year  without  postponing  the  bloom  until  they 
re-establish  themselves.  They  will  be  satisfactory  for  years  without 
disturbance. 

Some  amaryllids  are  evergreen  and  do  not  lose  their  foliage  as 
above  described,  but  the  best  time  to  move  them  is  after  the  flower  has 
recently  disappeared.  Mr.  Burbank  has  produced  most  wonderful 
hybrids  suitable  for  open-air  growth  in  California.  They  are  immense 
in  size  and  fairly  startling  in  brilliance  of  colors  and  uniqueness  of 
markings. 

Amaryllis  bulbs  are  large  and  should  not  be  planted  as  deeply  as 
the  rule,  previously  given,  would  prescribe.  They  should  have  the  stem 
end  but  an  inch  or  two  below  the  surface,  usually. 

Anemones. — There  are  two  groups  of  anemones:  one  low,  wholly 
herbaceous,  growing  and  blooming  during  the  California  winter  and 
spring  and  classed  as  spring-flowering  bulbs.  The  other  anemones 
are  of  taller  growth,  making  more  woody  stems  and  classed  with  fall 
bloomers.  These  two  classes  taken  together  constitute  one  of  our 
most  attractive  complementary  groups  of  flowers  included  in  a  single 
genus. 

The  spring  flowering  anemones  form  small  bulbs  with  peculiar 
pointed  extensions  which  should  be  placed  downward — soaking  the 
bulbs  in  water  before  planting.  The  bulbs  should  be  but  lightly 
covered  and  can  be  set  six  or  eight  inches  apart.  The  varieties  include 


ANEMONES  AND  BEGONIAS  193 

single  and  double  poppy-like  flowers  of  wide  range  of  colors:  white, 
blue,  scarlet,  pink,  coppery  red,  etc.  There  are  giant  strains  of  great 
vigor,  but  all  are  a  foot  or  less  in  stature,  with  occasional  reaches  to  a 
foot  and  a  half. 

The  fall-flowering  or  Japanese  anemones,  which  in  habit  differ 
from  the  foregoing,  keep  their  foliage  throughout  the  year.  There 
are  several  species  and  varieties,  including  hybrids,  all  of  which  are 
very  desirable.  Colors  are  pure  white,  dark  rose  color,  carmine.  The 
flowers  are  produced  in  great  profusion,  two  or  three  inches  in  diam- 
eter, well  above  the  dense  foliage;  both  flowers  and  foliage  very  grace- 
ful. The  plants  accept  any  soil,  though  they  thrive  best  in  rather  light 
and  loose  soils,  and  will  thrive  in  shade  like  ferns,  with  which  they 
may  be  inter-planted  with  beautiful  effect.  The  plants  should  be 
mulched  during  their  winter  resting  and  suckers  removed  to  prevent 
too  thick  matting — retaining  the  old  clumps,  which  will  be  good  for 
years.  Transplanting  should  be  done  during  the  dormant  period  after 
the  fall  flowering. 

Begonias. — Comment  is  restricted  to  the  tuberous-rooted  group. 
These  plants  created  much  excitement  twenty  years  ago,  because  of 
their  gorgeousness  and  when  temperatures,  exposures  and  moisture  in 
air  and  soil  are  just  right,  they  are  unrivaled  in  their  effects,  but  ama- 
teurs have,  as  a  rule,  found  them  too  exacting  in  their  requirements. 
Those  who  desire  to  try  them  can  hardly  do  better  than  follow  the 
hints  given  by  Fred  Rafferty  of  Santa  Ana  of  their  requirements: 
"only  in  sheltered,  protected  locations  are  tuberous  begonias  at  all 
satisfactory.  But  whenever  all  conditions  are  just  to  their  liking, 
there  is  scarcely  a  flower  grown  that  will  attract  more  attention.  The 
small  bulbs  start  easily  if  placed  in  a  pot  or  box  of  leaf  mold  and  sand 
in  April.  Cover  about  one-quarter  or  one-half  inch  and  keep  always 
moderately  moist.  When  well  started  put  into  five  or  six-inch  pots 
or  set  out  in  the  open.  The  soil  should  have  a  large  addition  of  leaf 
mold  and  frequent  watering  is  necessary.  The  top  of  the  soil  should 
never  be  allowed  to  become  quite  dry.  They  do  not  enjoy  a  high 
temperature.  Anything  over  70°  is  unnecessary,  and  over  80°  is  more 
or  less  harmful;  55°  to  60°  at  night  is  the  best,  so  that  the  cloudy 
nights  and  damp  mornings  of  May  and  June  in  the  coast  district  are 
just  suited  for  them,  and  they  make  a  strong,  sturdy  growth  of  large, 
crisp,  green  leaves  that  cover  the  ground  sufficiently  to  materially 
lessen  evaporation.  On  this  account  a  large  plant  will,  during  July 
and  August,  seemingly  require  less  water  than  a  small  one  in  order  to 
thrive  well.  A  good  strain  of  plants  will  show  very  large  flowers,  four 
to  six  inches  across,  on  strong,  upright  stems,  and  the  colors  will  be 
bright  and  pure.  Dull  colors  are  not  common  among  them,  and 
flowers  shading  from  one  color  into  another  are  not  plentiful  either." 


194  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Calla.— Grateful  mention  is  made  of  the  calla,  or  "calla  lily"  as  it  is 
commonly  called,  because  of  the  eminent  services  of  the  plant  in  the 
demonstration  of  the  ethereal  mildness  of  the  California  climate. 
That  a  plant  which  in  wintry  climates  must  be  held  as  an  indoor  pet 
would  run  wild  and  grow  all  the  year  in  some  parts  of  California  and 
attain  such  colossal  size  that  it  would  require  a  barrel  instead  of  a 
small  pot  to  accommodate  its  roots,  was  probably  more  influential 
than  any  other  single  thing  in  winning  or  commanding  attention  to 
the  salubrity  of  California.  But  having  accomplished  its  local  life 
work  the  calla  now  seems  sinking  into  grateful  memory,  for  the  plants 
are  now  as  little  seen  as  they  were  formerly  abundant.  Its  dark 
green  foliage  and  dazzling  white  bloom,  with  golden  finger  pointing 
significantly  to  California  are  but  seldom  seen  now  in  gardens  to  re- 
mind the  pioneer  of  the  ingratitude  of  the  present  generation.  As  for 
culture  the  calla  is  so  hardy  that  it  brooks  any  treatment,  even  to 
transplanting  in  full  bloom,  although  that  is  cruel.  September  and 
October  are  good  months  for  planting.  Callas  will  grow  in  any  soil 
and  take  any  water  they  can  get — growing  in  ratio  to  the  supply.  In 
the  colder  places  they  will  disappear  with  frost  and  reappear  in  Feb- 
ruary if  sun  heat  invites  them,  while  in  frostless  places  they  will  dis- 
appear with  drouth  and  reappear  with  rains  to  maintain  continuous 
winter  bloom.  With  neither  frost  nor  drouth  they  are  nearly  ever- 
green. 

Canna. — Cannas  serve  an  excellent  purpose  as  a  background  of 
tropical  foliage  of  various  shades  of  green  or  bronze,  and  the  newer 
strains  present  flowers  of  gorgeous  hues  in  midsummer  when  garden- 
coloring  is  deeply  appreciated.  The  improved  varieties  with  most 
showy  flowers  are  of  shorter  stature  than  the  older  kinds,  which  are 
characterized  by  more  foliage  hues  and  freer  bloom-shoots  of  small, 
brilliant  flowers — therefore  a  good  border  or  screen-effect  can  be 
secured  with  the  latter  in  the  background.  Cannas  enjoy  high  living 
and  the  less  hardy  are  apt  to  disappear  under  neglect  which  denies 
them  the  food  and  drink  which  they  require.  Although  the  old  kinds 
will  endure  for  years  in  place,  for  good  effects  taking  up  the  clumps 
after  the  top  growth  disappears,  storing  in  a  cool  place  and  re-setting 
in  the  spring,  just  before  advancing  heat  renders  the  roots  active,  is 
desirable.  Root-clumps  with  two  or  three  eyes  each  should  be  separ- 
ated and  set  at  from  two  to  four  feet  apart,  according  to  the  stature 
of  the  variety.  Interesting  results  can  be  had  from  seed  by  amateurs 
who  fancy  the  plant.  The  seed  is  very  hard  and  shot-like,  whence  the 
old  name,  "Indian  Shot,"  for  the  plant.  The  seeds  are  difficult  to  start 
because  of  their  hard  covering  and  should  be  put  in  very  hot  water, 
and  soaked  for  several  hours  before  planting.  One  can  pour  nearly 
boiling  water  upon  them  several  times,  soaking  them  at  intervals  until 


CALLAS,  CANNAS,  AND  CROCUS  195 

the  outer  skin  cracks  open.  They  germinate  in  from  ten  to  fifteen 
days,  and  may  be  even  longer  in  starting.  Many  persons  fail  with 
seeds,  probably  from  want  of  thoroughly  soaking  to  soften  the  hard 
shell.  Instead  of  soaking,  one  can  file  down  a  spot  in  the  shell  or 
cut  carefully  with  a  knife  to  admit  moisture  to  the  germ  within. 

Crocus. — It  probably  needs  a  patient  professional  gardener  or  an 
amateur  who  has  much  of  the  poetic  temperament  to  get  much  joy 
out  of  crocuses.  They  have  to  be  handled  just  right  to  get  a  good 
start,  followed  by  good  luck  to  get  the  bloom  out  of  pounding  rain 
drops  or  splashing  mud,  which  disfigure  them.  Some  have  held  that 
the  crocus  thrives  better  in  colder  climates,  for  the  reason  that  in  cold 
climates  roots  are  developed  before  new  growth  is  made,  while  in  a 
mild  climate  like  ours  the  bulb  will  start  its  upward  growth  before 
sufficient  roots  are  developed  to  maintain  the  growth.  Add  to  this 
the  fact  that  the  crocus  bulbs  are  often  poor,  and  that  they  are  planted 
too  late,  and  it  is  not  surprising  that  they  give  little  satisfaction.  But 
one  can  get  good  crocuses  by  planting  in  October,  good  round  bulbs 
in  boxes,  and  keep  them  out  of  doors  in  a  cool  place,  and  in  February 
one  will  get  a  mass  of  well-developed  flowers.  As  a  border  plant  for 
early  flowering  they  can  be  handled  by  mulching  to  keep  the  low 
flowers  from  mud-splashing  and  to  hold  the  little  bulb  in  moist  surface 
soil,  if  there  are  no  rains.  One  can  do  such  things  or  he  can  put  the 
bulbs  in  the  grass  plot  and  let  them  do  as  they  like  in  a  poetic  way. 

Cyclamen. — Although  almost  exclusively  a  pot  plant  and  very 
delightful  as  such,  cyclamen  persicum  can  be  handled  in  favorable 
places  in  the  open  air,  and  as  we  do  not  oare  to  mention  only  easy 
things,  we  note  the  fact  for  the  ambitious  amateur.  Cyclamen  persi- 
cum is  one  of  the  sweetest  flowering  bulbs  under  cultivation,  and  if 
properly  treated  will  not  only  flower  early,  but  will  keep  in  bloom  all 
winter.  They  are  quite  fragrant  and  vary  in  color  from  pure  white 
to  a  dark  purple.  If  grown  in  pots  choose  a  rather  heavy  loam  with 
good  drainage.  They  like  a  cool  atmosphere  and  must  be  kept  clean 
from  insects.  They  should  be  planted  in  pots  so  that  about  one-third 
of  the  bulb  stands  above  ground,  but  in  the  open  must  be  lightly 
covered  and  mulched.  The  variety  known  as  Cyclamen  persicum 
giganteum  is  by  far  the  best  and  sometimes  shows  fifty  flowers  at  one 
time.  They  can  be  grown  from  seed  so  as  to  flower  within  one  year. 

Dahlias. — Dahlias  are  the  glory  of  the  California  late  summer  and 
early  autumn,  leading  up  to  the  glory  of  the  chrysanthemum  and 
sharing  it,  if  late  planting  is  observed.  There  is  now  such  a  range  of 
forms  and  colors  that  all  tastes  are  met  and  satisfied.  A  very  inter- 
esting note  of  appreciation  and  advice  is  this,  from  Mr.  Ernest 
Braunton  of  Los  Angeles  in  the  California  Cultivator: 


196  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

"In  all  parts  of  California  I  notice  the  dahlia  is  a  great  favorite 
and  is  found  in  nearly  every  garden,  both  in  city  and  country.  If  you 
are  situated  in  what  is  called  a  frostless  belt  and  have  a  spot  of  really 
warm  exposure,  a  very  early  planting  will  result  in  flowering  the 
dahlia  during  the  cool  weather  of  early  summer.  But  if  you  store  the 
dahlia  tubers  in  a  cool,  very  dry  place,  preferably  dark,  buried  in  deep 
boxes  of  perfectly  dry  sand  and  plant  out,  after  the  hottest  days  of 
summer  have  passed,  in  a  rich,  loose  soil,  rather  deeply,  and  water 
freely,  you  will  have  fine  autumn  bloom.  After  the  tops  are  growing 
keep  well  watered  and  fed  and  'on  the  move'  all  the  time.  Stake  and 
tie  the  tops  with  care,  and  in  the  cool  of  autumn  you  will  have  dahlias 
that  will  prove  your  heart's  delight.  These  flowers  are  especially 
adapted  to  California  soils  and  conditions,  being  native  to  nearby  ter- 
ritory." 

This  suggestion  applies  to  places  with  a  long  frostless  season  and 
high  summer  heat,  but  it  applies  also  to  places  where  autumn  warmth 
can  be  relied  upon  even  if  the  summer  temperature  does  not  run  so 
high.  In  such  places  planting  late  in  the  spring,  encouraging  growth 
during  the  cool  summer  and  bloom  in  the  early  autumn  gives  excellent 
results.  The  obvious  conclusion  is  that  one  can  largely  determine 
what  the  dahlia  shall  do  for  him  by  regulating  the  dormancy  and 
activity  of  the  tuber  intelligently,  he  who  works  too  closely  to  a  fixed 
calendar  does  not  get  all  that  the  flower  can  do  for  him. 

After  the  top  growth  dies  take  up  the  tubers,  cutting  off  the  old 
dry  stems  and  store  the  bunches  of  tubers  as  Mr.  Braunton  suggests. 
We  have  succeeded  admirably,  with  less  labor  than  the  sanding  and 
boxing,  by  packing  the  immense  clumps  closely  in  a  dark,  dirt-walled 
cellar  under  the  house.  It  is  amply  dry  during  the  rainy  season  and 
cool  during  the  spring  and  the  tubers  keep  dormant  for  late  planting; 
separating  the  tubers  is  found  desirable  at  that  time. 

In  planting  the  large  tuber,  one  forgets  the  rule  for  depth  accord- 
ing to  size,  but  plants  the  long  tuber  vertically  with  the  shoot-end 
not  far  below  the  surface.  It  is  necessary  to  see  that  dormant  buds 
on  the  stem-end  -are  provided  for  each  section  in  separation;  blind 
tubers  will  be  a  disappointment. 

While  favorites  must  be  held  by  tuber-planting,  it  is  very  interest- 
ing to  grow  a  lot  of  seedlings,  and  some  beauties  are  likely  to  be  had. 
Sow  the  seed  in  boxes  in  the  frame  or  greenhouse,  as  heat  increases 
in  February  or  March;  plant  out  the  seedlings  after  all  danger  of  frost 
is  over;  keep  them  going  with  water  and  shade  if  the  summer  heat  is 
high  and  bloom  will  be  secured  the  first  autumn. 

Although  we  have  grown  our  plants  in  self-sustaining  clumps,  it 
is  better  perhaps  to  give  them  more  attention  by  removing  surplus 
shoots  and  training  the  best  shoot  to  a  stake;  topping  it  at  about  two 


DAHLIAS,  FREESIAS  AND  GLADIOLUS  197 

feet  and  encouraging  branching  from  this  tree-like  basis.  A  high 
stake  and  firm  tying  to  it  -are  a  necessary  precaution  against  wind 
injuries. 

Freesias. — These  are  really  the  most  joyful  little  bulbs  known  to 
us,  and  they  seem  ready  always  to  winter-carpet  your  place  and  to 
give  it  the  odor  of  a  perfume  factory.  If  you  make  a  start  with 
autumn  planting  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  deeply  moistened  by  the 
rains,  or  if  you  wet  down  by  irrigation  if  rains  are  late,  growth  begins 
early,  flowers  appear  in  the  early  winter  and  after  that  the  plant  holds 
possession  and  extends  its  area  wherever  the  little  bulbs  are  scattered 
by  cultivation  or  otherwise.  These  are  the  white  freesias  which  are 
chiefly  grown,  though  others  are  coming  into  notice.  They  require  no 
particular  culture-methods;  they  seem  willing  to  accept  all  rules  or 
to  thrive  without  any.  The  flowers  have  more  delicate  coloring  in 
partial  shade. 

Gladiolus. — Gladiolus  is  of  two  quite  different  types  and  cul- 
tures :  the  "early"  or  "small-flowered"  type,  which  is  hardy  in  Cali- 
fornia autumn  and  winter  and  therefore  belongs  to  "bulbs  for  fall 
planting";  and  the  large  or  standard,  older  type  which  is  planted  later 
for  midsummer  bloom.  Each  is  grand  and  desirable  in  its  own  way 
and  California  notably  pleases  both  of  them. 

The  early-flowering  gladioli,  the  old  "Bride"  type  followed  by 
Colvillei  creations,  are  graceful  and  beautiful  for  boquet  or  small  vase 
clusters  and  should  be  planted  in  the  autumn,  with  succession  into 
early  winter,  for  they  make  good  winter  growth  for  spring  perform- 
ance. The  late-flowering  sorts  need  more  heat  in  the  soil  to  push 
activity  and  prevent  decay  and  should  be  planted  after  the  soil  warms 
up  through  increasing  sun-heat  and  freedom  from  cold  rains.  The 
improved  late  varieties  make  stalwart  stems  of  gorgeous  large  flowers 
and  are  best  suited  for  midsummer  garden  display  or  for  cutting  for 
the  grander  style  of  decorations.  In  light,  warm  soils  they  may  be 
planted  as  early  as  January,  but  in  most  places  later  planting  is  better, 
and  it  may  be  continued  until  June  to  get  a  succession  of  bloom. 

Gladioli  enjoy  the  best  one  can  do  for  them  in  soil  preparation, 
fertilizing  with  old,  cool  materials,  and  generous  moisture.  The  large 
sorts  need  light  staking,  for  they  blow  over  easily  when  reaching 
their  greatest  weight  of  flowers,  and  as  they  have  to  make 
their  race  in  summer  heat  and  drouth,  a  ground  cover  of  light  litter 
described  on  page  58,  keeps  the  surface  moist  and  relatively  cool,  as 
is  desirable  in  midsummer.  In  cutting  the  flower  stem  the  leaves 
should  be  allowed  to  remain  for  their  service  to  the  bulb,  as  previously 
stated  in  this  chapter.  It  is  especially^  mentioned  here  because  it  re- 
quires some  effort  to  separate  the  flower-stem  of  a  gladiolus,  but  it 
should  be  done.  After  the  top  growth  has  fully  dried,  the  bulb  should 


198  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

be  lifted  and  dried  well  before  storing  for  the  winter.  This  can  be 
done  easily  by  leaving  the  top  growth  attached  to  the  bulb  and  piling 
loosely  under  a  tree  or  in  an  open  shed.  After  this  drying,  cut  off  the 
old  leaves,  separate  the  bulblets  and  store  the  bulbs  and  bulblets 
separately  for  convenience  in  replanting.  At  planting  time  reset  the 
bulbs  in  proper  blooming  form  and  sow  the  bulblets  thinly  in  a  shal- 
low trench,  for  easy  cultivation  and  watering  as  needed.  In  this  way 
many  of  them  can  be  brought  along  in  small  space  for  their  blooming 
in  their  second  or  third  year.  In  this  way  one  can  soon  have  all  the 
ready-to-bloom  bulbs  he  can  find  space  for. 

Probably  no  flower  has  recently  been  more  actively  worked  with 
for  new  magnificence  of  bloom  than  the  summer-blooming  gladiolus, 
•and  every  amateur  grower  should  keep  track  of  the  latest  offerings  by 
the  bulb  dealers.  The  amateur  can  grow  seedlings  from  the  newer 
strains  of  seeds  which  are  offered  and  get  much  joy  out  of  it  perhaps, 
but  there  is  little  chance  of  catching  up  with  the  professionals.  It  can 
be  done  as  suggested  for  dahlia  seedlings,  but  one  need  not  fear  frost 
as  much.  It  also  takes  two  or  three  times  as  long  to  get  a  bloom 
from  seed  and  there  is  more  chance  of  wearying  of  it. 

Hyacinths. — Hyacinths  are  of  two  general  groups:  the  Roman, 
which  shoots  several  small  clusters  of  flowers,  and  the  common  or 
Dutch,  which  gives  one  large,  cylindrical  cluster  of  single  or  double 
flowers.  Hyacinths  are  probably  better  -as  potted  than  as  open  border 
plants  and  are  more  important  commercially  that  way.  Many  who 
plant  in  the  open  are  disappointed  in  shortness  of  the  bloom  stem  or 
in  imperfect  development  of  the  cluster.  Undoubtedly  a  part  of  the 
disfavor  which  hyacinths  incur  as  garden  flowers  is  due  to  late  plant- 
ing and  other  influences  which  cause  the  top-growth  to  develop  before 
good  rooting  is  secured.  If  planted  quite  deep,  say  not  less  than  four 
inches  in  a  well  drained  soil  and  planted  in  October  and  November, 
there  is  likely  to  be  a  much  better  root-development  than  if  planted  a 
month  or  more  later,  which  seems  to  hasten  top-growth  too  much. 
Probably  another  reason  for  disfavor  out  of  doors  is  the  fact  that 
they  bloom  at  the  season  when  the  winter  rains  are  apt  to  be  most 
heavy  and  continuous,  and  a  rain-bedraggled  and  splashed  hyacinth 
bed  is  a  rather  sorry  sight.  Still  when  planted  right  and  mulched  to 
reduce  splashing  and  the  rains  light  at  their  season,  hyacinths  do  pro- 
duce a  grand  effect  and  one  will  find  enthusiastic  supporters  as  well  as 
impassioned  critics  of  the  flower.  On  the  whole  the  Roman  are  more 
popular  than  the  Dutch:  they  pretend  to  less  and  they  accomplish 
more,  usually;  and  of  the  Dutch,  the  single  lead  the  double  in  favor. 

Hyacinths  should  not  be  expected  to  repeat  bloom  in  place,  and  it 
is  probably  true  that  it  is  not  worth  while  to  try  to  save  the  bulb  at 
all,  but  to  buy  new  ones  each  year  from  the  professional  propagators, 


HYACINTHS  AND  IRIS  199 

although  it  is  interesting  for  each  grower  to  determine  his  own  policy 
in  that  line.  The  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  after  the  foliage  dies 
down,  the  rubbish  removed  and  the  bulbs  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Iris. — The  Iris  family  is  now  becoming  more  popular  every  year 
and  should  receive  more  attention.  From  year  to  year  new  varieties 
are  introduced.  The  colors  are  very  numerous.  They  are  perfectly 
hardy;  they  can  be  cultivated  in  shady  places  where  other  plants  will 
not  thrive;  and  some  of  them  will  thrive  in  any  kind  of  soil  and  with- 
out much  attention,  although  they  will  show  you  that  they  appreciate 
it.  The  English,  the  Spanish,  the  German,  the  Japanese  and  the  Cali- 
fornia iris,  all  of  them  are  well  worth  cultivating  by  any  one  who 
will  make  a  study  of  their  several  needs. 

The  commonest  is  the  German  iris — the  "sweet  flag"  of  our  grand- 
mothers. It  does  grandly  in  California  if  it  is  helped  along  through 
the  dry  season,  which  is  strange  to  it,  for  it  is  a  humid-summer  affair. 
It  makes  winter  growth  in  most  parts  of  California  and  flowers  cor- 
respondingly early  in  the  spring.  Too  much  attention  is  evidently 
given  to  the  old  suggestion  that  the  German  iris  should  rest  in  the 
California  summer,  as  it  does  in  the  eastern  and  European  winter,  and 
plants  are  allowed  to  get  into  distress  during  the  dry  season  on  the 
belief  that  it  is  good  for  them,  which  we  are  quite  sure  it  is  not.  To 
allow  the  leaves  to  burn  dry  and  the  surface,  fleshy  roots  to  bake,  not 
only  gives  the  plants  a  perishing  look  but  injures  them  also.  This 
group  of  varieties,  which  range  from  pure  white  to  deep  purple,  should 
have  a  little  moisture  in  the  dry  season;  the  roots  crowding  upward 
should  be  lightly  covered  with  soil  or  mulch,  and  the  plants  should 
be  taken  up  and  divided  at  long  intervals  at  least.  Old  run-out  clumps, 
which  have  lost  force  enough  to  bloom,  will  be  refreshed  by  division 
and  replanting  and  the  roots  will  soon  break  into  bloom  in  the  new 
places. 

Contrasting  with  the  broad  leaves  characteristic  of  the  above 
group  are  the  Spanish  irises,  so-called,  which  have  narrow  leaves, 
almost  grass-like  in  aspect  and  not  abundant,  and  stems  so  thin  that 
one  is  apt  to  wonder  where  such  grand  clusters  of  flowers  can  come 
from.  These  irises  entirely  disappear  some  time  after  bloom,  break 
through  the  ground  early  in  the  rainy  season  and  bloom  in  the  spring 
gorgeously,  the  colors  running  through  blues  and  yellows  to  clear 
white,  and  there  are  mottlings  and  stripings  which  are  very  beautiful. 
These  varieties  enjoy  the  full  sun  and  dislike  too  heavy  shade. 

The  Japanese  irises  are  perhaps  the  most  difficult  to  grow  of  the 
lot  and  morA  are  disappointed  with  them.  They  are,  however,  so  fine 
that  no  one  should  be  content  not  to  try  them.  The  flowers  are  very 
large  and  the  colors  are  rich  and  various.  Perhaps  some  failures  of 
this  group  have  come  through  too  great  neglect  after  blooming, 


200  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

resulting  from  too  rigid  application  of  the  rest-doctrine.  They  should 
have  good  treatment  of  the  soil  surface  and  not  be  allowed  to  dry  too 
much  during  their  dormancy.  Sometimes  the  roots  suffer  in  shipment 
and  become  unsound.  As  for  soil,  it  is  particularly  necessary  that  it 
should  be  finely  prepared  as  described  on  pages  27  to  31;  both  the 
German  and  Spanish  will  not  be  so  insistent  on  this. 

In  transplanting  irises  there  is  much  latitude  in  different  parts  of 
the  state.  Fall  planting  is  admissible  everywhere  if  the  soil  is  per- 
manently moistened.  At  the  south  it  is  particularly  necessary  that 
planting  should  be  early  in  the  rainy  season,  for  there  is  less  winter 
moisture  in  that  part  of  the  state,  and  an  early  establishment  of  the 
rooting  is  almost  indispensable.  In  more  northerly  places  with  heavy 
rains  and  lower  temperature,  one  can  either  plant  early  and  get  the 
advantage  of  the  autumn  heat  or  wait  until  early  spring.  The  rhizomes 
or  roots  should  be  planted  about  a  foot  apart  in  rows  or  otherwise, 
leaving  more  distance  for  cultivation  between  the  lines  of  plants  when 
one  is  growing  many  plants  for  cut  flowers. 

Varieties  of  iris  in  all  the  groups  mentioned,  and  in  others  also, 
are  beyond  enumeration.  All  the  florists  give  attention  to  them  and 
furnish  inspiring  descriptions.  California  has  at  least  one  iris- 
specialist,  Mr.  J.  Dean  of  Moneta,  Los  Angeles  County,  with  whom  all 
intending  enthusiasts  on  the  iris  should  correspond. 

Ixias. — These  are  small  and  very  interesting  flowers  of  a  wide  range 
of  colors — pinks,  reds,  yellows  and  white  with  variegations.  They  are 
early  in  action,  like  the  freesias,  but  are  very  different  in  effect,  with 
their  showy  bloom  held  high  on  stiff  stems.  They  are  treated  like 
freesias  and  are  quite  as  grateful. 

Lilies. — California  is  rich  in  native  lilies  which  have  become  famous 
all  over  the  world,  and  most  of  the  foreign  lilies  have  been  introduced 
to  our  culture.  These  various  lilies  have  natural  conditions  somewhat 
different,  but  the  amateur  can  successfully  grow  all  he  cares  for  of 
them  under  about  the  same  artificial  conditions.  These  would  be  a 
well-enriched  soil  of  considerable  depth,  of  such  open  character  as 
favors  drainage,  soil-covering  to  prevent  drying  and  over-heating  of 
the  surface;  and  in  the  hotter  parts  of  the  state,  some  shade  against 
sun-burning — and  always  enough  water,  more  particularly  for  the  later 
bloomers.  A  lily  bed  can  well  be  given  much  care  in  preparation,  for 
it  is  to  remain  undisturbed  for  years.  Lily  bulbs  should  be  moved  as 
seldom  as  possible,  and  for  this  reason  they  must  be  protected  from 
intrusion  of  gophers,  which  are  very  fond  of  them.  Methods  for  doing 
this  are  given  on  page  190. 

In  making  lily  beds  the  ground  should  be  spaded  very  deep  and 
abundance  of  well-rotted  manure  worked  in.  The  bulbs  should  set 


LILIES,  VALLEYS  AND  MONTBRETIAS  201 

at  least  four  inches  deep,  and  planting  in  sand,  as  suggested  on  page 
187,  is  desirable.  In  sandy  soil  deeper  planting  is  of  advantage.  But 
under  no  consideration  use  green  manure  on  lily  beds  or  bulbs  of  any 
description.  If  lilies  are  to  be  grown  in  beds  for  cutting,  it  is  con- 
venient to  make  them  about  three  feet  wide  and  as  long  as  desire'd. 
But  rather  a  better  effect  can  be  secured  by  planting  in  clumps  with 
perhaps  a  dozen  bulbs  of  each  variety  in  a  clump  by  itself.  It  is  better 
to  have  fewer  kinds  and  mass  them  in  this  way  than  to  have  only  one 
or  two  each  of  many  kinds  scattered  here  and  there.  The  lilies 
look  well  and  are  protected  from  the  winds  if  planted  against  shrub- 
bery background  with  tall  trees  south  of  them,  so  that  they  are  on 
the  northern  exposure — this  suggestion  being  of  increasing  value  in 
the  hotter  parts  of  the  state.  As  the  bulbs  are  deep,  the  surface  of  the 
bed  may  be  lightly  forked  between  growths,  and  surface  application 
of  well  rotted  manure  made  from  time  to  time.  After  flowering  the 
beds  will  need  little  water  if  thus  protected  from  surface  baking. 

Lily  of  the  Valley. — Lily  of  the  Valley  is  considered  very  difficult 
to  grow  except  under  artificial  conditions  of  moisture  and  shade,  such 
as  can  be  had  under  glass.  In  the  central  coast  district  fairly  satis- 
factory results  can  be  had  with  lilies  of  the  valley  grown  on  the  east 
side  of  buildings,  fences,  etc.,  while  they  would  fail  if  placed  on  the 
south  and  west  sides  of  these  barriers,  where  the  springtime  heat  may 
become  very  high  and  the  air  very  dry.  The  bulbs  or  roots  come  in 
two  distinct  conditions,  in  single  crowns,  called  pips,  and  in  clumps. 
The  pips  are  imported  for  forcing  purposes,  and  they  probably  cannot 
successfully  be  forced  without  artificial  heat,  and  even  under  this  treat- 
ment they  are  first  subjected  to  a  freezing  point.  This  makes  the  pips 
not  very  satisfactory  to  the  amateur,  and,  although  thousands  are  sold 
annually  to  amateurs  on  account  of  their  cheapness,  disappointment 
is  general.  Clumps  are  necessary  to  insure  success  to  the  amateur. 
They  flower  in  due  time  and  if  bedded  out  in  a  sheltered,  partially 
shaded  situation,  with  proper  care  they  can  readily  be  established  and 
produce  their  flowers  from  year  to  year.  But  they  must  not  be  allowed 
to  dry  up  completely;  they  must  receive  at  least  a  moderate  supply  of 
water  throughout  the  entire  summer  season. 

Montbretias. — Montbretias,  or  perhaps  more  properly  tritonias,  are 
a  very  easily  grown  and  satisfactory  plant  with  foliage  resembling  a 
gladiolus  and  flowers  of  similar  style,  but  small  and  because  of  yellow 
and  reddish  coloring,  very  showy  in  contrast  with  the  light  green 
leaves.  The  small  bulbs  are  planted  early  in  the  rainy  season,  the  plant 
starts  in  early  spring  and  makes  a  midsummer  bloom.  The  bulbs 
multiply  with  great  rapidity  and  clumps  or  rows  rapidly  widen.  The 
plant  needs  ample  summer  moisture  or  the  foliage  becomes  rusty  and 
unhandsome  even  before  the  bloom  appears. 


202  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Narcissus. — Of  all  bulbs  probably  those  of  the  genus  narcissus  are 
most  abundant  in  California  gardens  and  give  amateurs  most  pleasure. 
Daffodils  of  all  sorts,  China  lilies,  jonquils  and  those  which  use  the 
family  name  as  poet's  narcissus,  trumpet  narcissus,  etc. — all  belong  to 
the  botanic  genus,  narcissus.  They  come  from  all  parts  of  the  earth 
and  they  are  all  at  home  in  the  California  winter.  They  thrive  with 
the  most  ordinary  care  and  culture  and  show  a  disposition  to  run  wild 
in  the  fields,  as  the  bulbs  chance  to  go  with  garden  rubbish.  They 
have  a  long  blooming  season,  for  the  natural  habits  of  the  varieties 
differ;  there  is  much  length  to  the  planting  season  and  the  haste  of 
the  flower  after  planting  is  determined  by  local  soils  and  exposures. 
Certainly  one  could  have  daffodils  for  nearly  if  not  quite  half  the  year 
if  he  should  distribute  varieties  and  planting  dates  and  use  both  warm 
hillsides  and  cool  bottoms  for  his  venture. 

Narcissus  varieties  accept  natural  soil  conditions  in  all  parts  of 
California,  but  their  growth  is  enlarged  by  generous  manuring.  As 
their  activity  covers  the  rainy  season,  they  seldom  need  irrigation 
unless  it  be  to  facilitate  planting  in  September,  or  to  awaken  the  old 
bulbs  for  early  flowering,  when  fall  rains  are  delayed.  Cultivation 
helps  them  also  and  it  is  at  least  kind  to  mulch  the  soil  with  the  dried 
top-growth,  after  it  dies  down,  or  to  otherwise  check  the  baking  of  the 
ground  as  described  on  page  189.  But  they  will  not  resent  neglect,  but 
will  break  through  hard  ground  and,  if  the  following  year  is  one  of 
abundant  rains,  will  apparently  forget  all  hardship.  The  bulbs  need 
not  be  taken  up,  although  they  are  not  disturbed  by  it  as  lilies  are  apt 
to  be;  they  can  be  left  in  the  soil  for  several  years  together,  always 
making  new  bulbs  until  the  clump  is  so  compacted  that  the  bulbs 
become  flattened  like  chestnuts  in  the  burr.  The  clump  should  be 
lifted  and  the  bulbs  reset  on  new  ground,  or  on  the  old  ground  well 
manured,  before  such  extremity  is  reached. 

Of  the  narcissus  family,  Narcissus  polyanthus,  or  bunch-flowering 
narcissus,  are  very  early,  and  some  of  them-can  be  had  in  bloom  by 
Christmas  if  planted  in  September  and  kept  watered.  Some  of  the 
most  popular  of  the  bunch-flowering  are  the  Paper  White,  the  Chinese 
Sacred  Lily,  the  double  Roman,  Grand  Monarque  and  others.  Prob- 
ably the  trumpet  daffodils  are  the  most  popular  of  the  narcissus  family, 
and  they  are  individually  most  beautiful  and  produce  the  most  striking 
mass-effects  in  growth  and  for  decoration.  They  come  later  than  the 
bunch  narcissus;  most  of  them  produce  only  one  flower  to  the  stem. 
The  striking  size  and  coloration  of  the  trumpet  group  is  a  notable 
achievement.  Jonquils  are  excellent  for  bedding  purposes.  They 
require  very  little  care  and  succeed  well  in  any  fair  soil.  They  are 
sweet  scented  and  give  general  satisfaction. 

Of  varieties  the  bulb  dealers  are  always  presenting  something  new 
and  interesting,  and  at  the  same  time  somewhat  baffling  to  the  be- 


NARCISSUS  AND  TUBEROSES  203 

ginner  for  multitude.  Mr.  J.  H.  Howard  of  Los  Angeles  names  a 
group  of  dependable  sorts  with  which  even  the  beginning  amateur 
may  be  assured  of  success,  and  it  covers  practically  all  types  from  the 
giant  trumpet  forms  to  the  polyanthus  or  bunch-flowered  class,  as 
follows:  Emperor,  Empress,  Bicolor  Victoria,  Barrii  Conspicuus, 
Campernelle  Rugolosus,  Horsfeldii,  Golden  Spur,  Mad.  Plemp,  Orange 
Phoenix,  Princeps  Maximus,  Soliel  d'Or  and  Von  Sion. 

Oxalis. — These  little,  low  plants  with  their  rich  clover-like  foliage 
and  delicate  but  warm  colorings  are  very  effectively  used  as  edgings  or 
in  small  masses.  They  are  very  eager  to  start  and  should  be  planted 
in  August  or  September  on  well-moistened  ground  with  partial  shade 
to  get  good  results.  They  will  remain  long  in  place  in  a  shady  ex- 
posure and  awaken  with  the  first  rains.  They  are  very  sensitive  to 
drouth  after  they  start  growth. 

Ranunculus. — These  bulbs  or  roots  are  analogues  of  the  spring  or 
herbaceous  anemones  and  are  grown  at  the  same  times,  by  the  same 
methods  and  for  the  same  purposes.  They  have,  however,  notable 
color  differences  and  are  generally  associated  with  them  for  mass  or 
line  effects.  The  roots  are  like  anemones  and  receive  the  same  treat- 
ment. 

Sparaxis. — Sparaxis  or  "wand-flower"  is  of  ixia  style  and  botanical 
connection  and  similar  in  culture  requirements.  There  are  many 
varieties,  differing  in  size,  colors  and  markings,  and  those  chiefly  pro- 
pagated are  very  desirable.  They  are  very  gay  and  beautiful. 

Snowdrops. — Snowdrops  appeal  to  us  as  the  best  of  the  earliest 
bloomers — coming  in  December  when  established  in  the  ground  and 
awakened  by  September  watering.  Their  snowy,  bell-shaped  flowers 
beautifully  marked  with  green  shyly  peeping  from  the  dark  green 
foliage  are  very  attractive.  They  are  very  refined  and  graceful  on  the 
mantel  or  the  corsage.  The  bulbs  are  small  and  should  be  set  about 
two  inches  deep  and  four  inches  apart  in  lines  so  that  they  shall  not 
be  forgotten  during  summer  cultivation.  They  will  remain  in  place 
for  years  and  then  thrive  better  after  separation. 

Tigridias. — Tigridias  are  striking  in  their  colors  and  markings  and 
notably  interesting  in  spite  of  the  short  life  of  the  brilliant  cup-shaped 
bloom.  If  the  soil  is  light  and  suitably  prepared  they  may  remain  in 
place.  The  blooms  keep  coming  for  several  weeks  in  warm  weather. 
The  bulbs  should  be  covered  about  three  inches  in  light  soil;  otherwise 
shallower,  and  distance  apart  may  range  from  four  to  eight  inches. 

Tuberoses. — These  superlatively  fragrant  tube-like  bloomers  come 
very  freely  and  of  grand  size  if  the  bulbs  are  set  in  light  soils  in  warm 
exposures.  Their  growth  in  the  light  loams  of  the  interior  valley 
when  kept  amply  moist  is  simply  surprising  and  in  such  places  can  be 
left  in  the  ground.  They  do  rather  poorly  in  lower  temperatures  and 


204  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

heavy   soils   and   need   lifting   after   blooming,    to   be    reset   after   the 
ground  becomes  warmed  in  early  spring. 

Tulips. — One  can  make  the  tulip  story  very  short,  unless  he  goes 
into  the  trials  and  tribulations  of  a  generation  of  growers  who  made 
such  various  and  protracted  efforts  to  get  some  satisfaction  from  the 
old-style  common  or  Dutch  tulips.  Some  few  have  succeeded  and 
produced  notable  results  by  planting  northward  of  fences  or  buildings 
or  under  trees,  so  that  only  a  fraction  of  low-power  sunlight  reaches 
them.  In  this  way  they  develop  slowly  and  the  bloom-stem  is  not 
invited  to  shoot  before  root-force  is  accumulated  to  give  it  long  dis- 
tance. Even  this  policy  does  not  avail  where  winter  sunshine  and 
warm  air  heats  even  shaded  soil  surfaces.  Probably  no  one  gets  better 
Dutch  tulips  than  Mr.  Carl  Purdy  of  Ukiah,  and  though  he  is  a  most 
discerning  grower,  we  have  always  had  the  conviction  that  a  part  of 
his  success  was  due  to  climatic  conditions  working  with  him  in  his 
coast  situation  north  of  San  Francisco.  But  of  course  these  conditions 
do  not  settle  the  question  one  way  or  the  other.  We,  too,  have  worked 
in  the  coast  district  but,  through  careless  practice  probably,  have 
always  had  these  old  Dutchmen  sitting  in  the  dirt  like  an  egg  in  an  egg 
cup.  For  this  reason  we  quite  sympathize  with  many  who  believe 
that  the  ordinary  working  amateur  should  drop  all  the  old  Dutch 
classes  which  have  made  such  a  sensation  in  the  world.  This  of  course 
does  not  mean  to  submerge  all  Holland,  for  Holland  grows  newer 
classes  also,  and  until  we  get  to  commercial  bulb-growing  on  this 
coast,  as  we  should,  we  are  greatly  beholden  to  the  Hollanders. 

All  tulips,  so  far  as  we  know  them,  require  in  this  state  some  shade 
against  extra-hot  spring  days,  for  we  often  get,  in  the  coast  district, 
March  heat  which  is  even  higher  than  midsummer  heat,  and  this  dis-* 
tresses  tulips.  All  tulips  also  require  lightness  in  the  soil  and  all  that 
is  said  of  the  beneficence  of  sand,  manure  and  fibre  on  pages  27  to  31 
should  be  deeply  written  on  your  tulip-conscience.  Cool  cow-manure 
is  the  delight  of  tulips  and  they  should  have  it  above  their  heads  and 
under  their  feet.  Tillage  and  ample  moisture,  unless  freely  supplied  by 
the  rains,  are  indispensable,  as  emphasized  on  pages  35  and  36.  If  one 
will  give  heed  to  all  these  things,  he  can  surely  have  gorgeous  tulips, 
stems  knee  to  waist  high,  holding  aloft  great  bells  to  ring  joy  deep 
into  your  heart — bells  that  will  cause  the  meanness  in  your  spirit  to 
exult  a  little  as  your  neighbor  declares  that  he  could  never  get  a  tulip 
good  enough  to  put  in  a  wine-glass,  while  yours  seem  to  require  an 
umbrella-stand. 

This  you  can  do  by  observing  the  cultural  preparations  cited  and 
by  growing  the  classes  of  tulips  which  are  later  flowering  than  the  old 
Dutch  and  which  are  commonly  called  Darwins,  Gesnerianas,  Cottage 
and  May-flowering  tulips — the  family  entanglements  of  which  we  shall 


TULIPS  AND  WATSONIAS  205 

not  try  to  explain,  but  these  are  the  ones  for  the  amateur  to  grow. 
Other  conditions  of  success  are  to  plant  early,  usually  in  October  or 
November,  when  the  ground  is  right,  setting  the  bulbs  about  four 
inches  apart  in  the  row,  with  hoeing  space  between  the  rows,  unless 
you  are  trying  to  get  all  that  you  can  from  a  small  space  or  general 
effect  from  massing,  and  then  the  bulbs  can  be  set  four  inches  apart 
each  way.  To  see  just  what  you  are  doing  and  to  give  greater  mellow- 
ness to  the  soil,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  throw  out  all  the  dirt  to  a  depth 
of  about  seven  inches,  spread  a  little  well  rotted  manure;  put  a  thin 
layer  of  sand  or  light  soil  over  it;  set  the  bulbs  in  this  and  cover  lightly 
so  as  to  place  about  three  inches  of  soil  over  the  top  of  the  bulb,  and 
then  spread  a  mulch  of  light  manure  so  that  the  heavy  rains  shall  not 
compact  the  surface.  If  this  is  done  one  will  surely  get  grand  tulips 
of  kinds  which  enjoy  being  in  California.  Much  work  is  being  done 
by  propagators  of  these  good  tulips  and  improved  varieties  are  almost 
annually  appearing;  therefore  the  florists'  announcements  must  be 
carefully  studied  and  one  must  always  watch  the  results  of  those 
whose  tulips  show  that  they  grow  them  aright. 

Watsonias. — Watsonias  make  tall  foliage  and  shoot  long  bloom 
stems,  thus  having  something  of  the  aspect  of  the  gladiolus,  with 
which  they  are  somewhat  allied.  They  have  a  more  continuous  bloom- 
ing season,  from  spring  until  autumn,  and  the  flowers  are  very  showy. 
They  enjoy  much  sunshine  and  are  very  popular  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia. They  need  early  planting,  say  in  September,  on  properly 
moistened  ground,  for  the  roots  do  not  enjoy  being  out  of  the  ground, 
and  they  may  be  allowed  to  enjoy  it  for  several  years  as  daffodils  are, 
replanting  when  they  crowd  each  other.  If  planted  early  they  will 
lead  the  spring  bloomers  and  be  in  at  Easter  in  warm-winter  places. 
It  was  of  one  variety  of  Watsonia  that  someone  said:  "It  is  the 
whitest  flower  that  grows." 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
FLOWERS  FOR  HOT,  DRY  REGIONS. 

That  the  reader  may  have  some  relief  from  the  continual  reitera- 
tions of  the  culture  exhortations  which  the  writer  has  found  befitting 
the  greater  areas  of  the  California  coast  and  valley  regions,  and  in  the 
hope  of  helping  those  who  live  where  extremes  of  heat,  cold  and 
drouth  are  more  marked,  this  chapter  will  be  constructed  chiefly  of 
conclusions  reached  by  Professor  J.  J.  Thornber,  while  he  was  serving 
as  botanist  of  the  Arizona  Experiment  Station.  There  are  very  large 
districts  of  California  which  lie  south-eastward  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
and  eastward  and  northward  of  the  high  mountains  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, which  are  characterized  by  conditions  unaffected  by  ocean  in- 
fluences and  therefore  more  closely  resembling  those  prevailing  at  the 
same  latitude  in  the  interior  of  the  continent.  In  such  districts  Arizona 
experience  is  more  pertinent  than  that  of  the  coast  region  of  Cali- 
fornia. It  may  be  noticed,  however,  by  the  close  reader  that  there  is 
a  resemblance  in  kind  between  the  recommendations  drawn  from 
Professor  Thornber  and  those  previously  given,  but  there  is  con- 
siderable difference  in  degree. 

Growing  the  Right  Plant  at  the  Right  Time.— A  lack  of  apprecia- 
tion of  the  differences  between  the  winter,  spring,  and  summer  grow- 
ing seasons  is  responsible  for  the  failure  of  many  plants,  particularly 
flowers,  to  make  any  growth  whatever  when  planted  in  the  interior 
regions.  Too  often  we  are  sowing  sweet  peas  and  poppy  seeds  when 
we  should  be  planting  petunias  and  zinnias.  Some  endeavor  to  grow 
the  same  varieties  of  flowers  in  the  southwest  in  the  summer  season 
that  they  did  in  the  states  farther  north  and  east,  and  in  this  they 
almost  invariably  fail.  The  experienced  southwestern  truck  gardener, 
with  his  acre  of  rich  valley  soil,  knows  well  not  to  waste  time  trying 
to  grow  such  vegetables  as  onions,  peas,  and  spinach  during  the 
extreme  summer  heat,  though  these  conditions  are  perfect  for  some 
kinds  of  beans,  for  squashes  and  sweet  potatoes.  Species  growing 
remarkably  well  during  the  winter  and  spring  months  are  seldom 
able  to  make  any  headway  in  the  summer  season.  In  fact,  such  plants 
usually  die  at  the  beginning  of  the  hot,  dry  fore-summer,  or  at  least 
cease  growth  and  production  of  flowers  and  seeds,  even  with  moderate 
irrigation.  Fruitless  attempts  are  often  made,  on  the  open  plains  or 
valleys,  to  grow  sweet  peas,  ten-weeks,  stock,  candytuft,  crimson  flax, 
or  even  California  poppies  in  the  summer.  And  the  reverse  is  like- 
wise true,  for  such  varieties  as  flourish  during  the  hot  weather,  seldom 
make  any  growth  worthy  of  note  in  the  winter  season,  and  usually 


SOWING  SEEDS  IN  HOT  VALLEYS  207 

they  are  not  at  all  in  evidence,  having  been  cut  down  by  the  frosts  of 
late  fall. 

Winter  and  Spring  Bloomers. — As  concerns  annual  flowers  for  late 
winter  and  spring  blossoming  it  is  true  in  general  that  varieties  listed 
in  seed  catalogues  as  "hardy  annuals"  are  the  ones  most  certain  to 
thrive  during  our  so-called  winter  months.  This  group  is  made  up 
largely  of  such  well-known  plants  as  mignonette,  candytuft,  sweet 
alyssum,  sweet  peas,  sweet  sultan,  ten-weeks  stock,  snap-dragon,  pot- 
marigold,  common  parsley,  annual  or  rocket  larkspur,  and  corn  and 
opium  poppies.  To  these  may  be  added  also  the  equally  hardy  arctotis 
grandis,  crimson  flax,  perennial  flax,  blue  lupine,  annual  phlox,  Mexi- 
can evening  primrose,  California  poppy,  and  the  gaillardias — the  last 
six  of  which  are  indigenous  to  the  Southwest.  Along  with  these 
should  be  planted,  for  spring  and  early  summer  flowering,  the  biennial 
foxglove,  Canterbury  bells,  and  the  ever-present  and  hardy  hollyhock. 

Seeds  of  the  above  plants  may  be  sown  any  time  in  September  or 
early  October  in  ordinary,  well-prepared  garden  soil.  When  sown  in 
September  the  young  plants  grow  to  some  size  by  late  fall,  and  are 
less  subject  to  injury  from  birds  and  grasshoppers.  The  plants  require 
only  moderate  irrigation  during  much  of  their  growing  season  by 
virtue  of  moderate  temperatures,  and  of  the  winter  rainfall  which  at 
times  is  sufficient  to  supplement  a  considerable  part  of  the  watering. 
With  a  few  exceptions,  including  the  biennial  species,  the  growth  of 
these  varieties  is  at  an  end  by  the  middle  of  May  when  the  hot  weather 
sets  in,  after  which  many  have  little  inclination  to  look  after  beds  of 
flowers,  while  still  others  seek  cooler  climates.  These  winter  and 
spring  growing  plants  are  accordingly  well  suited  to  the  interior 
country  and  with  the  perennial  species  to  be  noted  next  should  come 
to  be  widely  grown.  It  is  to  them  that  we  must  look  for  cut  flowers 
and  diversity  of  color  during  our  growing  winter  seasons  when  the 
landscapes  in  other  countries  are  bleak  and  sere. 

In  addition  to  those  mentioned,  certain  of  the  annuals,  as  phlox 
and  larkspur,  will  continue,  with  cultivation  and  frequent  watering, 
to  blossom  well  into  the  summer  season.  No  other  of  the  winter 
growing  plants  supply  so  many  flowers  for  cutting,  nor  so  wide  a 
range  of  color  as  the  sweet  pea.  They  should  be  given  deep,  rich  soil 
and  moderate  irrigation,  the  latter  in  particular,  after  the  first  flower 
buds  appear. 

There  are  a  few  perennial  species  blossoming  in  winter  and  early 
spring  that  should  be  planted  at  the  same  time  as  the  annual  flowers 
just  noted.  Of  these  the  well-known  violet  is  one  of  the  most 'satis- 
factory. Besides  blossoming  freely  during  the  winter,  with  moderate 
watering  it  remains  green  throughout  the  year,  and  even  if  allowed  to 
go  unirrigated  two  or  three  months  in  the  summer  a  fresh  growth 


208  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

starts  up  in  the  early  fall,  from  the  underground  stems.  Violets  should 
be  re-set  about  every  second  year  to  keep  the  roots  from  becoming  too 
matted,  and  also  to  renew  the  soil.  The  usual  custom  of  planting 
winter  growing  plants  like  the  violet  in  the  springtime  is  not  good,  as 
such  newly-set  plants  require  constant  watering  throughout  the  sum- 
mer to  keep  them  from  dying.  Far  better  it  is  to  set  them  in  the  fall 
just  as  growth  begins  naturally.  This  is  a  safe  rule  to  follow  with 
all  plants. 

The  various  kinds  of  narcissus  furnish  excellent  cut  flowers  for 
winter  and  early  spring,  though  they  are  often  shy  bloomers.  The 
more  common  of  these  are  the  Chinese  sacred  lily,  poets'  narcissus, 
trumpet  narcissus,  paper  white  narcissus,  common  daffodils,  and  jon- 
quils, though  several  others  of  the  group  do  equally  well.  September 
and  October  are  also  good  months  to  set  out  such  other  bulbous  plants 
as  the  star  of  Bethlehem,  Roman  hyacinths,  the  several  varieties  of 
oxalis,  and  the  ranunculus.  The  latter  furnishes  an  abundance  of 
bright-colored,  daisy-like  flowers.  Irisis  represent  another  group  of 
valuable  spring  bloomers.  The  German  iris  is  planted  more  than  any 
other,  and  always  with  good  results.  A  clump  of  these  plants  is  a 
feature  in  any  spring  landscape.  Though  remarkably  tolerant  to  arid 
conditions  the  German  iris  does  best  in  deep  soil  with  an  abundance 
of  moisture.  A  somewhat  similar  though  less  showy  plant,  is  the 
sweet  flag  iris.  The  Spanish  iris  also  does  well.  Bulbous  species  like 
the  above,  and  perennials  in  general  need  little  attention  when  once 
established,  but  continue  flowering  in  season  year  after  year.  For  this 
reason  they  are  more  economical  in  the  long  run  than  annuals  which 
need  re-sowing,  though  the  latter  make  a  quick  showing  which  is 
always  desirable  on  new  grounds. 

Carnations,  verbenas,  and  periwinkle  or  trailing  myrtle,  likewise 
are  best  planted  in  the  early  fall.  Carnations  in  particular,  should  be 
given  a  moderately  well  enriched,  sandy  loam.  These  and  verbenas 
are  nearly  continuous  bloomers  at  the  lower  altitudes,  while  the 
varieties  of  periwinkle  are  evergreen  trailers,  with  blue  bell-shaped 
flowers  appearing  in  the  spring.  Periwinkle  is  a  general  purpose 
plant,  growing  almost  wherever  planted,  and  thriving  in  both  poor  and 
rich  soil,  and  in  shade  and  sunlight. 

Varieties  for  Summer  and  Fall  Blooming. — On  account  of  heat  and 
aridity,  only  the  hardiest  garden  plants  will  grow  through  the  summer 
season  with  any  degree  of  success,  and  even  these  require  frequent  or 
moderate  irrigation.  Of  the  annuals  the  following  have  been  found 
to  be  the  most  successful:  zinnias,  globe  amaranth,  prince's  feather, 
cockscomb,  hyacinth  and  scarlet  runner  beans,  golden  feather,  summer 
chrysanthemums,  cosmos,  asters,  four-o'clocks,  castor  beans,  garden 
sunflower,  balsam  apple  (Momordica),  cypress  vine,  and  the  various 


FLOWERS  FOR  HIGH  MOUNTAINS  209 

morning  glories,  including  scarlet,  blue  and  purple  flowered  varieties, 
also  Japanese  morning  glory  and  the  moon  flower.  The  seeds  of  the 
above  should  be  sown  at  the  lower  elevations  by  the  middle  of  April, 
and  preferably  two  weeks  earlier,  in  order  to  give  the  young  plants  a 
good  start  before  the  beginning  of  the  hot  weather. 

Of  the  above,  asters  and  cosmos  are  the  most  desirable  for  cut 
flowers,  while  for  color  and  display,  zinnias,  globe  amaranths,  and 
four-o'clocks  rank  among  the  first.  Asters,  summer  chrysanthemums, 
golden  feather,  cosmos,  castor  beans,  and  the  morning  glories  'are 
least  resistant  to  drought  and  should  be  watered  twice  a  week  during 
the  drier  parts  of  the  summer;  the  others  are  robust,  deep-rooting 
plants  succeeding  with  ordinary  care,  i.  e.,  irrigation  once  a  week  or 
thereabouts.  Morning  glories  are  very  much  at  home  and  may  be 
sown  any  time  from  April  to  August.  As  herbaceous  climbers  they 
have  few  equals.  They  range  from  low  bloomers  with  scarlet  or  sky- 
blue  flowers  to  the  tall-climbing  moonflower.  There  are  at  least  six 
native  morning  glories  in  Arizona  in  addition  to  the  introduced  ones 
mentioned.  Balsam  apple  is  a  rapid  growing,  neat-appearing  vine  of 
the  gourd  family  with  delicate  green  leaves  and  orange  fruits.  The 
castor  bean,  like  other  rapacious  growers  and  heavy  feeders  requires 
deep,  rich  soil  and  frequent  irrigation. 

Among  the  hardier  of  the  rather  few  perennial  summer  and  fall 
bloomers  that  grow  successfully  at  the  lower  altitudes,  are  cannas, 
chrysanthemums,  yellow,  white,  orange,  and  rose-colored  lantanas, 
madeira  vine,  the  native  golden  columbine,  white  and  fairy  lilies 
(Zephyranthes),  and  the  so-called  crown  imperial  (Crinum  amabile), 
besides  asparagus  and  lavender.  Cannas  are  among  the  plants  par 
excellence  for  display.  Without  fail,  they  should  be  re-set  each  year 
in  early  spring.  Together  with  chrysanthemums  and  the  crown  im- 
perial, cannas  require  good  culture  and  frequent  irrigation,  otherwise 
it  were  best  not  to  try  to  grow  such  plants.  Columbines  succeed  only 
with  partial  shade  and  abundant  moisture,  while  asparagus  and  laven- 
der are  among  the  hardiest  of  the  list.  When  once  established,  fairy 
lilies  need  no  further  attention,  and  altogether  are  very  satisfactory 
plants.  Their  lily-like  flowers  appear  from  June  to  October.  Lan- 
tanas are  unexcelled  for  southwestern  planting,  being  continuous  and 
profuse  bloomers,  though  they  should  be  cut  back  and  given  some 
protection  during  the  winter  season.  The  above  perennials  should  be 
set  out  in  the  early  spring — the  earlier  the  better. 

Varieties  for  Growing  at  Higher  Altitudes. — Between  altitudes  of 
3500  and  5000  feet,  in  Arizona  and  California  also,  where  the  lower 
winter  temperatures  approach  zero,  the  hardy  annuals  are  sown  to  best 
advantage  in  early  spring,  i.  e.,  after  severe  freezing  weather  is  over, 
while  tenderer  varieties  should  not  be  sown  until  danger  from  frost 


210  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

is  past.  Perennials  of  whatever  class  are  set  out  just  previous  to  the 
time  they  ordinarily  begin  growth,  be  that  fall  or  spring.  With  these 
slight  differences  in  planting  due  to  the  cooler  spring  time  all  the 
varieties  noted  heretofore  can  be  grown  successfully  at  these  alti- 
tudes— except  in  some  places  in  northern  California,  where  there  is 
danger  of  frosts  nearly  every  month. 

Even  at  higher  mountain  elevations,  however,  there  may  be  found 
frostless  summers  and  one  well  defined  growing  season,  and  then 
spring  planting  is  the  rule.  The  conditions  of  growth  are  simpler  and 
resemble  those  of  the  prairie  states.  As  would  be  expected,  hardy 
annuals  succeed  best  at  these  altitudes  since  the  growing  seasons  are 
invariably  cool,  though  robust  summer  growers  like  zinnias  do  well. 
On  the  other  hand,  such  varieties  as  cosmos,  chrysanthemums,  cannas, 
and  castor  beans  are  often  frozen  back  in  early  September  a  short 
time  after  beginning  to  flower.  Blue  grass  and  white  clover,  and  most 
annual  and  perennial  flowers,  appear  entirely  at  home  with  the  cool, 
moist  growing  season  of  the  higher  elevations,  while  at  the  lower  alti- 
tudes of  the  interior  regions  with  great  heat  and  aridity  the  growth  of 
most  of  these  plants  is  practically  impossible  without  adequate  pro- 
tection. 

HINTS  ON  GROWING  CACTUS. 

On  the  dry  plains  of  the  interior  one  can  surround  himself  with 
cacti  and  get  grand  flowers  from  them,  if  he  knows  how  to  handle  the 
plants  in  propagation,  transplanting  and  subsequent  growth.  The 
following  practical  suggestions  are  given  by  Eleanor  M.  Lucas,  a  Cali- 
fornia grower,  who  enjoys  these  plants  and  delights  in  a  mild  climate 
where  so  many  cacti  may  be  grown  in  the  open  ground. 

Rooting  Cactus  Cuttings. — Make  a  clean  cut.  Heat  an  iron  redhot 
(the  poker  will  answer  our  purpose  and  it  is  the  handiest  tool  for  a 
woman  to  use)  and  sear  the  cut  edge  until  it  looks  white  and  dry. 
Have  a  seedpan  or  box  of  coarse  sand.  Do  not  make  the  mistake  of 
sifting  the  sand — this  may  cause  it  to  "pack,"  and  being  close  is  liable 
to  cause  decay.  If  you  cannot  obtain  coarse  sand,  mix  with  the  sand 
some  broken  charcoal  or  bits  of  granite  or  other  rocks.  Do  not  use 
broken  pottery — it  holds  the  moisture  and  anything  of  the  kind  will 
induce  decay.  Have  plenty  of  this  drainage  stuff  in  the  pan  or  box; 
one-third  is  not  too  much.  Water  the  sand  until  it  is  damp,  then  make 
a  hole,  insert  the  cutting  and  press  the  sand  closely  about  it.  Let  it 
alone  for  at  least  three  days,  placed  in  the  sun.  If  at  the  end  of  this 
time  the  sand  is  very  dry,  water  slightly.  One  cannot  give  explicit 
directions  for  watering,  as  climatic  conditions  vary.  Better  err  by 
keeping  the  cutting  too  dry  than  by  giving  too  much  water.  Under 
good  conditions  a  cactus  cutting  will  root  in  two  weeks,  and  at  the 


HINTS  OF  GROWING  CACTI  211 

end  of  the  third  week  will  throw  out  new  shoots,  or  new  spines,  as  the 
case  may  be,  and  will  begin  to  grow.  Then  transplant,  following 
directions  given  below. 

Transplanting. — For  plants  with  roots,  cut  off  all  the  dried  roots 
when  you  receive  the  plant.  If  the  plant  is  bruised,  sear  it  with  a  hot 
iron,  or  dust  with  powdered  charcoal.  If  the  roots  are  bruised,  better 
cut  close  to  the  plant,  as  they  will  decay  anyway  and  you  may  lose 
the  plant  in  trying  to  save  one  or  two  roots.  Insert  in  sand,  as  for 
cuttings,  until  the  roots  are  growing,  then  plant,  always  remembering 
to  water  sparingly  until  well  established. 

Soil  and  Care. — People  who  write  that  "cacti  require  no  care"  must 
have  the  Echinopsis  in  mind.  It  is  a  plant  that  will  endure  the  most 
arrant  neglect,  and  fairly  shames  one  into  treating  it  with  more  cour- 
tesy. Its  flowers  are  a  joy,  the  white  ones  so  perfect  in  their  pure 
spirituality,  and  so  delicious  in  their  wonderful  fragrance;  and  the  pink 
blossoms  are  large  and  satiny,  lined  with  an  ethereal  silvery  sheen,  its 
deep  throat  tufted  with  a  downy  fringe. 

The  soil  in  the  cactus  bed  should  be  very  loose  and  gravelly  and 
well  drained.  Nothing  is  more  fatal  to  a  cactus  than  a  poorly  drained 
soil — they  do  not  like  wet  feet. 

While  cacti  will  live  in  any  dry  soil,  they  are  responsive  to  good 
treatment  and  proper  soil.  For  general  planting  use  a  mixture  of  half 
sand  and  half  clean  garden  loam.  For  Phyllocacti  use  one  part  well 
decayed  manure  to  two  parts  of  the  above,  and  to  each  bushel  use  a 
5-inch  pot  of  clean  lime.  For  large  Echinocacti  add  to  the  mixture  of 
sand  and  loam  one  5-inch  pot  of  crushed  granite,  and,  if  the  spines  are 
highly  colored  and  the  desire  is  to  intensify  it,  add  iron  filings  to  the 
soil. 

If  the  plants  are  kept  in  the  pots  all  the  year  around,  the  cacti  will 
derive  much  benefit  from  plunging  the  pots  into  the  earth  during  the 
summer  months.  Dig  a  hole  larger  than  the  size  of  the  pot,  and  four 
or  five  inches  deeper;  put  in  a  layer  of  broken  rocks;  on  this  place 
the  pot  and  fill  up  with  the  earth.  Make  the  beds  where  the  sun 
shines  the  hottest — the  spines  will  be  clearer  and  the  blossoms 
brighter.  When  well  established  the  plants  will  endure  lots  of  water, 
always  provided  no  water  stagnates  about  the  roots. 

In  localities  where  the  soil  is  heavy  and  ill-drained,  and  it  is  desir- 
able to  bed  cacti  in  the  open,  make  an  excavation  near  the  center  of 
the  bed,  about  three  feet  deep  and  as  large  as  possible.  Put  a  layer  of 
stones  or  old  tin  cans  and  such  rubbish  in  the  bottom,  cover  with 
straw  or  coarse  manure,  then  fill  in  your  soil,  having  the  bed  slightly 
elevated  near  the  center,  and  a  well-drained  bed  will  be  the  result. 


212  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

CACTI  AND  OTHER  SUCCULENTS. 

Very  handsome  beds  can  be  made  in  hot,  dry  places  by  grouping 
cacti  with  plants  of  Mesembryanthemums,  Sedums,  Crassulas  and 
other  sun-loving  plants.  These  succulent  plants  are  well  fitted  to 
endure  drought.  Their  leaves  have  few  evaporating  pores,  so  that 
they  do  not  readily  wilt,  and  the  roots  are  not  so  abundant  as  to  over- 
charge the  plant  with  moisture  during  wet  weather.  As  a  rule  they 
like  a  dryish  soil  and  arid  atmosphere  better  than  a  wet  soil  and  moist 
atmosphere. 


CHAPTER  XX. 
WATER-PLANTS  IN  CALIFORNIA  GARDENS. 

To  show  the  wide  range  of  possibilities  which  welcome  the  Cali- 
fornia amateur  to  garden  work,  we  contrast  the  heat-and-drouth-cul- 
tures  of  the  preceding  chapter  with  the  growth  of  plants  in  water. 
This  is  delightful  gardening  sport  in  California  for  two  reasons:  First, 
because  we  can  grow  in  the  open  air  gorgeous  water  lilies,  for  which, 
at  the  east  and  in  most  parts  of  Europe,  costly  houses  of  glass  need 
to  be  provided;  second,  because  if  proper  arrangements  are  made,  the 
amount  of  water  required  is  very  little.  Once  on  a  time  someone  told 
our  friend,  Mr.  C.  B.  Messenger  of  the  California  Cultivator,  that  by 
having  a  tight  bottom  to  it  "an  aquarium  and  water-lily  combination 
requires  no  more  water  than  an  equal  area  of  lawn"  and  we  presume 
that  is  not  far  from  right;  for,  in  the  case  of  the  pond,  one- has  little 
to  make  up  but  the  surface  evaporation,  while  in  the  lawn  he  has  the 
surface  of  the  earth  and  -all  the  surfaces  of  all  the  grass  blades  acting 
as  evaporators — not  to  speak  of  the  lawn-water  which  leaks  away 
through  the  soil.  However  such  a  calculation  may  come  out,  it  is 
perfectly  true  that  one  can  grow  aquatics  in  a  very  little  body  of  water 
as  will  be  shown  below.  It  is  also  true  that,  in  connection  with  our 
thousands  of  small  irrigation  reservoirs,  there  is  a  little  ocean  of  idle 
water  growing  green-scum,  water-weeds  and  mosquitoes,  which  ought 
to  be  set  to  work  growing  water  lilies  and  gold  fish.  For  although, 
in  the  drier  parts  of  the  state,  we  have  fewer  natural  lakes  and  ponds 
than  they  have  in  humid  regions,  there  is,  nevertheless,  a  good  deal  of 
water  standing  around  doing  nothing;  and  it  is  also  practical  to  get  a 
lot  of  joy  from  some  of  the  busy  water  in  such  regions,  because  it  will 
require  so  very  little  of  it. 

How  a  Man  Came  to  California  to  Grow  Aquatics. — We  have 
always  wondered  what  kind  of  a  goose  all  his  old  friends  thought  him 
to  be,  when,  about  twenty-five  years  ago,  Mr.  E.  D.  Sturtevant,  who 
was  then  the  most  prominent  eastern  expert  on  water  lilies,  etc.,  came 
to  a  semi-arid  country  to  grow  aquatics!  But  it  does  not  matter  much 
what  they  thought,  for  he  soon  showed  them  he  was  wise,  because  he 
could  do  so  many  things  in  the  California  open  air  which  he  always 
had  to  measure  by  acres  of  glass  and  carloads  of  coal  in  his  old  home. 
Of  course  he  made  a  good  location  for  frost-freedom  and  located  in 
the  old  Cahuenga  Valley,  where  they  used  to  grow  pineapples,  string 
beans  and  tomatoes  in  the  winter  without  protection — before  the  valley 
became  the  delightful  Hollywood  section  of  Los  Angeles.  And  he  also 
always  found  water  enough  for  his  aquatics  in  spite  of  the  light  rain- 
fall and  the  increased  appreciation  of  it  engendered  by  the  strong 


214  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

prohibition  sentiment  prevailing.  And  so  it  came  about  that  he  was 
soon  flowering  the  queen  of  the  tropics,  the  Victoria  Regia,  in  his 
water-yard  in  the  foothills  of  the  Cahuenga  Valley.  Of  course  that 
does  not  mean  that  one  can  do  that  everywhere  in  California,  but 
beyond  that  Mr.  Sturtevant's  experience  and  that  of  others  who  have 
taken  cue  from  him,  does  show  that  good  water  lilies  and  other 
aquatics  can  be  had  without  glass  or  coal  in  this  state  if  one  will  pro- 
vide the  few  things  required,  as  Mr.  Sturtevant  will  outline  for  us  in 
the  paragraphs  which  follow: 

Soil. — The  majority  of  -aquatics  are  gross  feeders,  and  it  is  well 
nigh  impossible  to  make  the  soil  too  rich  for  them.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  go  to  a  swamp  or  a  natural  pond  to  obtain  what  is  suitable.  It  can 
be  prepared  upon  your  own  premises.  Any  soil  which  will  grow  good 
vegetables  will,  if  properly  enriched,  grow  aquatics.  A  compost  con- 
sisting of  two-thirds  good  soil  and  one-third  well-decayed  manure, 
with  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  bonemeal,  is  what  we  recommend.  If  you 
have  a  black,  friable  loam,  which  is  intermediate  between  adobe  and 
sandy  loam,  it  would  be  excellent  for  the  purpose. 

Ponds. — The  simplest  arrangement  for  growing  water  plants  is  a 
large  tub  or  half  hogshead,  partly  filled  with  soil  and  located  in  a 
sunny  position.  A  much  better  plan  is  to  make  a  small  pool  by  ex- 
cavating the  ground  about  two  feet  and  covering  the  bottom  and  sides 
with  concrete  and  cement.  In  a  basin  eight  or  ten  feet  across  quite  a 
variety  of  plants  may  be  grown,  using  wooden  boxes  or  shallow  tubs 
to  hold  the  soil.  Those  having  fountain  basins  in  their  grounds  can 
utilize  them  in  the  same  manner.  It  is  not  necessary  that  there  should 
be  a  continuous  flow  of  water;  but  during  the  growing  season  enough 
should  be  run  in  each  day  to  prevent  stagnation  and  to  keep  the  plants 
in  health.  While  most  aquatics  will  flower  freely  in  contracted  quar- 
ters, they  will  attain  greater  perfection  with  much  larger  flowers  if 
they  have  abundance  of  room  both  for  the  roots  and  the  leaves. 
Basins  twenty  or  thirty  feet  in  diameter  or  even  larger  than  this  are 
desirable  for  growing  a  good  collection.  In  growing  the  lotus  in  the 
same  basin  with  nymphseas,  care  must  be  taken  to  confine  the  roots 
of  the  former  to  a  given  space,  as  it  has  the  habit  of  spreading  in  all 
directions. 

Locations. — It  might  seem  at  first  thought  that  California,  being 
such  a  dry  country,  the  conditions  are  not  favorable  to  the  culture  of 
water  plants.  But  our  city  gardens  are  supplied  with  water  in  the 
same  manner  as  in  the  East.  In  the  country  the  windmill  is  ever  the 
ready  servant;  and  where  irrigation  is  practiced,  nothing  could  be 
more  simple  than  to  turn  the  stream  aside  to  irrigate  a  water  garden. 
Natural  ponds  and  lakes  are  rare,  but  a  few  such  exist,  and  I  believe 


GROWING  WATER  LILY  AND  LOTUS  215 

that  they  are  suitable  for  the  naturalization  of  the  famous  Egyptian 
lotus. 

In  the  Eastern  States  we  classify  aquatics  as  tender  and  hardy. 
The  tender  kinds  are,  so  to  speak,  bedded  out  during  summer  and 
removed  to  a  greenhouse  in  autumn.  During  the  last  ten  years  it  has 
been  practically  demonstrated  that  nearly  all  the  tropical  varieties 
can  be  successfully  grown  here  and  left  out  the  entire  year.  In  the 
Cahuenga  foothills  nearly  every  variety  of  importance  has  been  suc- 
cessfully grown.  I  am  writing  of  that  place  and  those  portions  of  the 
State  which  have  the  same  climate;  but  for  localities  where  frosts  are 
frequent  or  severe,  I  would  recommend  that  the  more  tender  kinds 
be  either  removed  in  autumn  to  warmer  quarters  or  else  protected  by 
a  covering  of  glass  or  oiled  cloth.  I  will  give  a  selection  of  standard 
varieties  with  some  notes  on  their  requirements  in  this  region: 

Water  Lilies. — The  Victoria  regia  is  the  grandest  of  all  aquatics. 
This  most  magnificent  relative  of  our  common  water  lily  is  a  native  of 
South  America,  and  is  named  in  honor  of  the  Queen  of  England. 
From  a  seed  the  size  of  a  pea  it  will,  under  proper  conditions,  in  seven 
months  produce  a  plant  having  a  spread  of  thirty  feet  in  diameter 
with  perhaps  eight  or  ten  leaves  each  six  feet  across.  The  flowers  are 
lovely  beyond  description;  but  the  monster  leaves  of  the  plant  are  its 
glory.  The  flowers  on  good  plants  are  twelve  inches  across,  pure 
white,  with  petals  more  numerous  than  in  the  common  water  lily. 
They  exhale  a  most  delicious  perfume,  like  that  of  pineapples,  which 
pervades  the  air  for  a  considerable  distance. 

The  Victoria  has  been  grown  in  the  Cahuenga  Water  Garden  with 
fair  success  for  several  seasons.  Their  first  opening  occurs  in  the 
evening,  and  the  following  morning  the  flower  closes  entirely,  to 
open  the  second  evening,  when  another  wonderful  transformation 
takes  place.  Every  snow-white  petal  has  assumed  a  deep  pink  color, 
and  the  flower  has  lost  its  fragrance.  A  new  flower  appears  every  four 
days. 

Many  other  water  lilies  succeed  admirably,  their  requirements 
being  much  less  in  every  respect  than  the  Victoria.  These  varieties 
are  discussed  and  offered  in  the  florists'  trade  publications.  Some  of 
these  are  the  ones  commended  to  the  amateur  for  his  small  cultures. 

The  Lotus. — The  lotus  (Nelumblum  speciosum),  is  a  plant  of  re- 
markable interest  and  has  been  a  favorite  flower  in  Japan  for  a  long 
period  of  time.  It  has  proved  itself  to  be  equally  at  home  on  the 
western  continent.  We  have  had  the  lotus  in  cultivation  in  California, 
and  it  is  worthy  of  all  praise  bestowed  upon  it.  As  to  its  culture,  it 
prefers  a  heavy  soil,  well  enriched.  It  may  be  grown  in  a  large  shal- 
low wooden  box,  submerged  in  a  fountain,  or  a  more  liberal  space  may 
be  given  to  it  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  your  basin  or  pond.  Those 


216  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

who  have  adobe  soil  may  make  an  excavation,  taking  care  that  good 
soil  is  replaced  in  the  bottom;  the  tubers  may  be  planted  in  this  pool 
which  should  be  kept  flooded  during  summer.  During  the  winter 
season,  while  the  plants  are  at  rest,  the  pool  will  require  no  water, 
except  what  is  furnished  by  the  winter  rains.  The  roots  are  tuberous 
and  shaped  like  bananas.  If  it  is  desired  to  transplant  them  it  should 
not  be  done  until  the  growing  season  arrives. 

Other  Aquatics. — There  are  many  other  aquatic  plants  which  do 
not  belong  to  the  water-lily  family,  but  which  are  both  interesting  and 
beautiful,  and  help  to  make  variety  in  the  water  garden.  Among  these 
is  the  water  hyacinth,  Eichhornia  crassipes  major.  It  has  swollen  leaf 
stems,  filled  with  air  cells.  The  plant  will  grow  floating  around  in 
deep  water,  but  flowers  most  freely  where  its  roots  can  take  hold  of 
the  soil.  The  blossoms  are  rosy  lilac,  produced  in  large  spikes. 
Eichhornia  azurea,  more  recently  introduced,  has  a  creeping  habit 
like  a  verbena,  and  flowers  of  a  bluish  color.  These  two  plants  do  best 
if  partially  shaded  from  the  full  sunshine  in  summer,  and  sheltered 
from  cold  winds  in  winter. 

Limnocharis  Humboldtii,  or  the  water  poppy,  has  flowers  of  a 
lemon-yellow  color,  and  somewhat  resembles  the  California  poppy  of 
the  fields.  The  plant  prefers  shallow  water. 

The  Cape  pond  weed  (Aponogeton  distachyon),  though  not  a  showy 
plant,  is  interesting  on  account  of  the  fragrance  of  its  small  white 
flowers  and  its  habit  of  producing  them  in  winter. 

Ouvirandra  fenestralis,  the  lace  leaf  or  lattice  leaf,  has  somewhat 
narrow  leaves,  about  a  foot  long,  which  grow  entirely  under  water. 
They  are  of  an  olive-green  color,  and  consist  merely  of  the  framework 
or  veins  of  the  leaf  with  the  fleshy  part  entirely  absent,  thus  present- 
ing the  appearance  of  a  beautiful  piece  of  network  or  skeletonized 
leaf;  hence  the  name  lattice  leaf. 

Some  aquatic  plants,  besides  the  Water  Hyacinth,  are  found  float- 
ing on  the  surface  of  the  water,  without  attaching  their  roots  to  the 
soil.  Pistia  stratiotes,  the  water  lettuce  of  Florida,  is  another,  also,  the 
Azolla  or  floating  moss,  resembling  a  beautiful  moss  or  selaginella. 
This  I  have  found  growing  wild  in  California. 

The  Environment. — Our  water  gardens  have  a  background  of  semi- 
tropical  trees  and  plants.  How  great  an  advantage  do  we  here  possess 
over  those  who  live  in  colder  latitudes,  when  we  can  use  for  this  pur- 
pose such  plants  as  the  feathery  papyrus,  giant  grasses,  large-leaved 
caladiums,  musas,  the  towering  bamboo  and  a  variety  of  noble  and 
beautiful  palms. 


PART  V :    SHRUBS,  TREES  AND  VINES. 

CHAPTER  XXL 

CHOICE  AND  TREATMENT  OF  ARBORESCENT 
PLANTS. 

Obviously,  it  would  be  impossible  in  this  little  book  to  show  forth 
the  glories  of  all  the  shrubs,  trees  and  vines  which  are  found  in  Cali- 
fornia gardens  and  enjoyed  by  those  who  dwell  between  and  beneath 
them.  Even  if  the  writer  had  adequate  knowledge  thereof,  which  he 
has  not,  the  metes  and  bounds  fixed  for  this  publication  render  it  im- 
possible to  show  forth  such  knowledge.  And  the  limitations  of  the 
writer  are  not  unlike  those  of  his  readers.  None  of  them,  unless  he 
should  undertake  the  establishment  of  an  arboretum  to  represent  the 
capabilities  of  the  state  for  arborescent  growths  and  had,  for  the  pur- 
pose, a  few  townships  of  land  and  millions  of  money,  could  actually 
enjoy  sight  of  all  shrubs,  trees  and  vines  which  enjoy  California 
habitation.  Even  the  botanists,  upon  whom  rests  the  burden  of  com- 
pleteness in  enumeration  and  description,  can  only  discharge  them- 
selves of  it  by  signs  and  wonders  of  condensation  and  identification 
which  render  their  writing  intelligible  only  to  themselves — even  when 
they  fill  great  tomes  with  their  beautiful  inscriptions. 

And  then  it  is  not  wise  for  an  amateur  to  try  to  know  all  plants. 
He  may  very  properly  make  effort  to  know  all  of  a  botanical  or  flori- 
cultural  group  and  get  much  satisfaction  from  his  collection  of  facts 
and  plants  within  the  group  which  commands  his  interest.  The  effort 
will  give  him  much  real  joy  if  he  has  leisure  and  funds  to  encompass 
his  whimsy  and  become  expert  in  it.  But  it  is  usually  better  for  the 
amateur  to  find  a  few  shrubs,  trees  or  vines  which  he  really  admires 
and  which  show  by  their  growth  that  they  enjoy  his  company  and 
conditions,  and  then  let  them  both  and  all  cling  to  each  other  until 
death  doth  them  part. 

A  man  should  decide  for  himself  what  things  he  shall  plant  around 
his  habitation  and  he  should  reach  that  decision  by  sight  and  not  by 
hearing.  He  should  find  these  plants  in  the  same  way  that  he  finds 
a  wife  or  a  farm — by  looking.  Therefore  we  shall  submit  no  lists  of 
shrubs,  trees  or  vines  to  be  unthinkingly  adopted.  We  shall  rather 
undertake  to  name,  and  perhaps  briefly  characterize,  a  great  many 
which  are  satisfactory  in  California,  according  to  the  data  we  have 
now  in  hand.  Almost  everyone  knows  something  about  such  plants 
from  sight,  either  recent  or  remote,  and  has  reached  some  decision  as 
to  the  style  of  a  genus  or  a  group  which  pleases  him.  The  lists  which 
follow  will  help  him  to  knowledge  of  the  behavior  in  California  of  the 


218  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

plants  named  and  to  choose  species  or  varieties  which  have  accepted 
the  conditions  of  his  general  region.  This  may  help  him  to  make  a 
start,  but  we  must  urge  upon  every  amateur  to  pursue  shrub,  tree  and 
vine  studies  whenever  opportunity  offers.  Walks  abroad  in  his  sub- 
urban situation  will  always  give  opportunities  for  such  studies  and  so 
will  rides  along  rural  highways,  passing  well  planted  farmyards,  or 
village  parks,  etc. — all  of  which  have  specimens  worth  looking  at  and 
talking  about,  unless  one  be  a  speed-burner,  never  seeing  anything 
but  the  horizon  unless  he  crashes  into  it.  And  then  the  many  parks 
and  pleasure  grounds  of  the  greater  cities  of  California  afford  splendid 
material  for  study.  In  many  of  them  due  attention  has  been  paid  to 
name-labeling  and  from  these  public  exhibits,  plants  which  please  can 
be  noted  as  a  guide  in  ordering  from  the  nurserymen.  At  many  of  the 
nurseries  also  good  growing  specimens  can  be  seen  and  information 
gained  concerning  them. 

Choice  and  Arrangement  of  Trees. — Although  we  advise  every 
planter  to  choose  his  own  particular  trees,  there  are  a  few  hints  of  a 
general  character  which  may  be  indulged  in. 

In  dooryards  of  small  area  in  any  part  of  the  state  where  the  rain- 
fall is  great  it  is  undesirable  to  plant  evergreen  trees  because  their 
shade  excludes  winter  sunshine  and  keeps  the  place  dark  and  wet — 
not  only  to  the  discomfort  of  people  but  to  the  exclusion  of  winter- 
blooming  flowers  which  you  might  otherwise  have.  For  the  same 
reason,  plus  their  somber  aspect,  evergreens  of  the  coniferous  class 
are  also  undesirable.  If  densely-foliaged  evergreen  trees  are  required 
for  winter  wind-breaks,  plant  them  to  windward,  and  if  this  be  on  the 
south,  plant  them  far  enough  away  so  that  they  admit  all  the  sunshine 
possible  under  your  limitations.  In  sections  where  there  is  little  rain 
and  much  sunshine,  or  on  large  places  with  ample  side  and  rear  spaces, 
indulgence  in  the  wealth  of  broad-leaved  evergreens  which  thrive  in 
California  is  commendable. 

Coniferous  evergreens  should  not  be  planted  in  any  position  where 
the  tree  cannot  be  given  full  possession  of  the  ground  under  its 
branches.  Trimmed-up  conifers  are  grotesque,  as  will  be  claimed  in 
connection  with  pruning.  If  open  space  is  desired  under  evergreens 
they  should  be  of  kinds  which  naturally  make  clear  trunks  in  their 
early  life,  or  do  not  adopt  a  set  form  which  is  destroyed  by  trimming 
up. 

Although  it  is  admissible  to  plant  trees  of  different  kinds  together 
for  reasonable  variety  in  dooryards  or  to  their  rear  or  sides,  it  is  not 
desirable  to  mix  trees  along  driveways  which  are  expected  to  have 
an  avenue  effect.  This  is  especially  true  in  street  or  highway  plant- 
ing. From  lines  of  single  trees  multiplied,  however,  we  get  a  distinct 
impression,  and  that  impression  is  not  due  to  any  one  of  the  trees, 


CHOICE  AND  ARRANGEMENT  OF  TREES  219 

but  to  their  continuity.  Each,  for  instance,  may  choose  for  himself 
which  he  prefers — the  stateliness  of  palms  or  the  grace  of  grevillias 
— and  be  sure  of  having  something  actual  and  effective.  But  where  the 
palm  and  -another  tree  of  very  different  growth  habit  are  alternated, 
the  row  produces  no  distinct  impression  whatever,  except  perhaps  the 
suggestion  of  incongruity  and  conflict.  Stateliness  and  grace  are  both 
utterly  gone. 

For  the  same  reason  tall  trees  should  not  be  alternated  with  shrubs 
in  an  avenue  planting.  It  is  admissible  in  making  a  windbreak,  for 
protection  above  and  below,  but  then  one  is  making  a  wall,  not  an 
avenue. 

In  districts  of  great  rainfall  deciduous  trees  should  be  planted 
along  the  highway,  rather  than  evergreens,  that  the  mud  on  the  road 
may  have  a  chance  to  dry  in  the  sunshine.  If  there  is  a  sentiment  for 
evergreens,  they  should  be  restricted  to  north-and-south  roadways. 
But  do  not  attempt  to  meet  this  objection  by  planting  deciduous  trees 
on  the  south  side  of  an  east-and-west  road  and  evergreens  on  the 
north  side.  It  destroys  the  avenue  effect  entirely. 

Whatever  trees  are  selected  for  any  purpose  except  the  making  of 
a  hedge  or  windbreak,  do  not  plant  the  trees  too  near  together.  If 
they  are  naturally  large  trees  forty  feet  is  close  enough  on  inside 
driveways  and  fifty  feet  on  the  highway.  Close  planting  with  the 
expectation  of  removing  alternate  trees,  prevents  the  trees  from 
developing  their  natural  beauty  and  gives  a  row  of  deformities  later. 
In  the  planting  of  smaller  trees  and  shrubs  reason  must  be  used  in 
determining  distance,  remembering,  however,  that  almost  always  trees 
and  other  plants  are  set  too  near  together.  They  look  so  small  when 
young  that  it  requires  strong  resolution  to  space  them  properly.  It 
is  a  good  idea  to  decide  carefully  what  space  they  can  use  to  advantage 
when  well  grown,  and  then  give  them  twice  as  much. 

Growing  Trees  and  Shrubs  from  Seed. — Although  it  is  usually 
better  to  buy  a  thrifty  young  tree  or  shrub  than  to  grow  it,  the  latter 
can  be  done  when  one  has  more  time  than  money,  and  it  is  a  very 
interesting  operation.  Seeds  of  all  the  more  popular  trees  can  be 
cheaply  bought  from  the  seedsmen  or  may  be  gathered  from  mature 
trees  in  any  neighborhood  by  looking  for  them  at  their  season. 
One  has  to  be  careful  to  gather  seed  before  the  natural  containers 
are  sprung  open;  for  instance,  eucalyptus  seed  capsules  must  be 
gathered  from  the  tree  while  the  cap  is  still  in  place  and  allowed  to 
dry  on  a  sheet  or  in  a  box  which  will  catch  the  fine  seed  as  the 
dropping  of  the  cap  releases  it.  Acacia  seed  pod's  spring  open  on  the 
tree  and  shoot  out  their  seeds;  cones  with  their  scales  apart  have 
usually  discharged  the  seed,  etc. 


220  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Growing  seedling  shrubs,  trees  and  vines  is  accomplished  by  the 
methods  described  in  detail  in  Chapter  VII.  Growing  and  trans- 
planting such  seedlings  involves  all  the  outfit  of  seed  boxes,  frames 
and  open  beds  there  noted  and  the  soil  mixtures  for  tree  seedlings 
are  the  same  as  for  other  plants,  except  that  manure  is  sparingly  used. 
It  is  not  desirable  to  push  a  tree  seedling  as  you  would  a  blooming, 
ornamental  or  foliage  plant.  An  over-grown  seedling  is  apt  to  get  a 
set  back  after  putting  in  permanent  place;  a  medium-sized,  well 
hardened  tree  seedling  is  usually  better  than  a  large  one.  Although 
some  trees  transplant  well  when  quite  large,  the  growth  should  have 
been  secured  through  longer,  slower  growth  than  by  forcing  too  freely 
with  manure  and  water. 

Starting  H&rd  Seeds. — Some  tree  seed  has  very  hard  and  tough 
envelopment,  as  noted  on  page  62  with  reference  to  acacias.  Some 
seeds  will  not  endure  such  hard  scalding,  but  respond  to  less  heroic 
promotion.  Professor  Thornber,  whose  line  of  experience  is  noted  in 
Chapter  XIX,  obtained  best  results  with  such  seeds  by  immersing  in 
water  at  185°  to  190°  F.  for  a  period  of  two  to  six  minutes,  according 
to  the  character  of  the  seed  coat.  Seeing  that  some  seeds  were  injured 
by  too  long  scalding  he  adopted  the  method  of  keeping  in  hot  water 
for  two  minutes,  then  soaking  in  lukewark  water  from  12  to  24  hours; 
the  swollen  ones  are  removed  and  the  unchanged  ones  treated  again 
with  hot  water — repeating  the  scalding  and  soaking  several  times  if 
necessary.  Usually,  however,  this  elaborate  method  will  not  be  found 
necessary  and  many  seeds  of  shrubs  and  trees  will  come  readily  after 
soaking  in  lukewarm  water  for  24  hours  before  planting. 

Shrubs  and  Trees  from  Cuttings.— Many  shade  and  ornamental 
growths  come  readily  from  hardwood  cuttings,  as  described  on  page 
67.  Cuttings  of  eucalyptus,  for  instance,  can  be  made  of  new  wood 
of  the  thickness  of  one's  little  finger  and  smaller,  providing  the  ground 
is  kept  continually  moist  by  irrigation  all  through  the  first  summer. 
From  the  many  shoots  which  come,  one  is  to  be  selected  and  others 
removed,  to  get  an  upright  stem.  Cutting  of  deciduous  trees  which 
root  readily,  like  willows,  cottonwoods,  etc.,  can  be  made  early  in  the 
rainy  season.  As  a  rule  cuttings  of  evergreens  need  greater  soil- 
warmth  and  do  better  after  the  cold  rains  of  midwinter  are  over. 

Budding  and  grafting  ornamental  trees  is  accomplished  as  described 
in  Chapter  VIII. 

Planting  Trees  and  Shrubs. — The  principles  involved  in  planting  are 
the  same  for  all  plants  and  the  outline  given  in  Chapter  XI  is  there- 
fore applicable  to  shrubs,  trees  and  vines. 

Deciduous  growths  usually  transplant  successfully  during  their 
leafless  season,  except  when  the  ground  is  full  of  cold  water,  and  it 
is  not  necessary  to  take  earth  with  the  roots.  In  the  case  of  very 


PLANTING  AND  PRUNING  TREES 


large  trees  large  masses  of  earth  are  handled  with  the  tree  win 
hoisting  and  hauling  machinery,  but  this  is  a  professional  an 
California   this   work  is  seldom  undertaken  unless  one  must\ 
ready-made  park  immediately.     It  is  less  necessary  in  this  staU,  now- 
ever,  because  trees  grow  so  fast  and  one  can  have  very  large  trees 
from  very  small  ones  in  a  few  years  if  he  takes  good  care  of  them. 

Evergreen  trees  and  shrubs  should  be  transplanted,  as  nearly  as 
you  can  decide  upon  it,  when  the  new  growth  is  about  to  start.  This 
is  when  moisture  and  heat  are  adequate  to  growth.  On  the  whole, 
the  best  season  is  from  February  to  May,  according  to  the  region  you 
are  working  in.  Heat  is  then  adequate  and  not  excessive,  and  moist- 
ure is  adequate.  Everything  feels  like  growing  under  these  conditions 
and  the  tree  quickly  establishes  itself.  In  places  where  there  is  a  long 
autumn  growing  season,  evergreens  may  often  be  handled  near  the 
close  of  a  midsummer  rest  which  they  are  apt  to  take.  Evergreen 
trees  and  shrubs  should  usually  be  moved  with  a  ball  of  earth.  Dig 
a  trench  around  the  plant  or  along  each  side  of  the  row  of  plants, 
about  six  inches  away  from  the  stems  and  a  foot  deep,  pushing  away 
the  loose  surface  soil  between  the  trees  which  has  no  roots  in  it. 
Then  cut  down  with  a  sharp  spade  between  the  trees  about  as  far  on 
each  side  as  the  trench  is  from  the  tree.  Use  a  very  sharp  spade  so  as 
to  cleanly  cut  roots  and  not  break  the  ball  of  earth.  Then  cut  under 
the  tree  from  each  side  at  the  bottom  of  the  trench  and  you  can  lift 
out  the  small  tree  with  a  ball  of  earth  enclosing  its  roots.  If  the  soil 
is  very  friable,  slip  a  piece  of  sacking  under  the  ball,  pull  up  the 
corners  and  tie  at  the  base  of  the  tree  stem,  and  then  the  ball  can 
be  handled  without  breaking.  Handled  in  this  way,  evergreens  can 
be  moved  at  almost  any  time  of  the  year,  though  it  is  better  to  take 
them  under  conditions  noted  above. 

Trimming  and  Pruning. — Treatment  after  planting  is  outlined  on 
page  89  and  general  suggestions  on  shaping  are  given  on  page  90. 

Ornamental  and  shade  trees  in  dooryards,  and  particularly  shade 
trees  along  streets  and  avenues  should  be  allowed  to  take  their  natural 
forms  as  far  as  possible.  There  is  one  reason  why  pyramidal  conifers 
should  seldom  be  chosen  for  such  places.  The  requirements  of  the 
street  are  such  that  the  lower  branches  must  be  removed  and  a  clear 
trunk  secured.  To  remove  the  lower  limbs  of  a  pyramidal  conifer  is 
tree  butchery,  consequently  trees  which  naturally  make  a  spreading 
crown  and  a  clear  trunk  should  be  chosen.  Enough  pruning  must  be 
done  to  raise  the  head  so  that  the  branches  do  not  interfere  with 
traffic  and  passage.  It  is  emphatically  undesirable  that  avenue  trees 
should  be  cut  back  to  an  artificial  form  as  fruit  trees  have  to  be.  It 
is  sometimes  desirable  to  cut  back  or  to  remove  branches  which  go 
astray,  but  there  should  not  be  regular  pruning  to  make  a  form  un- 


222  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

natural  to  the  tree.  If  low  trees  are  desired  choose  those  which  do 
not  naturally  grow  high.  If  dense  shade  is  not  desired,  choose 
trees  which  naturally  make  a  slim  form,  etc.  It  is  to  compass  such 
knowledge  that  all  readers  are  urged  to  know  trees  through  observa- 
tion, as  already  insisted  upon. 

Tillage  of  Trees  and  Shrubs. — Trees  should  have  tillage  and  irriga- 
tion, in  reasonable  amount,  during  the  early  years,  for  the  purposes 
denned  in  Chapter  III.  By  such  treatment  one  not  only  helps  the  tree 
to  grow,  which  may  not  always  be  necessary,  but  proper  treatment  of 
the  tree  in  its  own  space  prevents  it  from  encroaching  so  far  upon 
space  desired  for  other  plants.  A  line  of  roadside  or  driveway  trees 
may  send  its  roots  for  rods  and  interfere  with  other  growths  because 
its  own  ground  is  hard  and  dry  and  inhospitable.  Therefore  trees 
should  have  their  own  proper  treatment  and  rations.  Besides,  such 
trees  should  be  forced  to  root  deeply  by  digging  which  will  destroy 
their  surface  roots  when  young.  If  this  is  done  much  of  the  space 
under  the  trees  may  be  saved  for  shallow-rooting  flowers  which  enjoy 
shade.  If  trees  are  allowed  to  appropriate  all  the  surface  soil  in  the 
vicinity,  nothing  else  can  thrive. 

Tree-Surgery. — This  kindly  art  has  recently  been  developed  into 
professional  standing  and  one  can  telephone  for  a  tree-doctor  just  as 
he  may  telephone  for  another  kind  to  look  after  his  appendix.  It  is 
therefore  a  matter  passing  amateur  limits,  but  we  venture  a  remark  or 
two,  nevertheless. 

When  it  becomes  desirable  to  remove  a  large  branch  always  saw 
first  from  below  upwards  part-way  through,  so  that  the  falling  branch 
may  not  tear  away  the  wood  and  bark  below  it.  Finish  the  cut  from 
above,  and  if  you  have  not  made  a  smooth  cut,  take  off  another  thin 
slice.  To  ensure  a  good  wound  it  is  obviously  desirable  first  to  cut  a 
little  distance  away  from  the  trunk  or  larger  branch  and  then  saw  off 
the  stub  cleanly.  Do  not  leave  a  stub;  cut  just  at  the  outer  edge  of  the 
enlargement  or  collar  at  the  base  of  the  branch  to  be  removed.  Cover 
the  wound  with  thick  paint  or  coal  tar,  not  allowing  it  to  run  over  the 
adjacent  bark,  however. 

Old  trees  from  which  branches  have  broken  or  have  been  carelessly 
sawed  or  chopped  off  should  have  the  stubs  cleanly  sawed  off  and 
treated  as  above. 

Whenever  this  has  been  neglected  and  whenever  decay  has  entered 
the  large  branches  or  trunk  from  this  or  other  cause,  remove  all  the 
unhealthy  bark,  making  a  clean  cut  back  of  the  healthy  bark.  Cover 
the  exposed  wound  with  coal  tar,  which  had  been  boiled  for  a  time 
and  allowed  to  become  cool.  This  boiling  expels  some  of  the  volatile 
matters  which  might  be  injurious  to  the  tree,  and  it  also  causes  the  tar 
to  harden  more  quickly  and  to  penetrate  less.  This  will  keep  the  wood 


HINTS  OF  TREE  SURGERY  223 

from  decaying,  will  exclude  insects  and  kill  all  which  have  succeeded 
in  securing  an  entrance.  If  there  is  soft  rotten  wood  under  the  bark, 
scrape  out  the  cavity  as  clean  as  possible,  removing  all  decayed  wood. 
A  carpenter's  gouge  is  a  good  tool  for  this  purpose.  Then  paint  the 
inside  of  the  cavity  with  coal  tar  which  has  been  boiled — not  pine  tar. 
After  drying,  fill  with  Portland  cement  and  smooth  carefully  around 
the  edges.  This  will  arrest  decay  and  the  bark  will  grow  over,  pro- 
viding the  cavity  is  not  too  large,  or  may  remain  exposed  and  be 
painted  to  resemble  the  bark  color. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 
SHRUBS  APPROVED  FOR  CALIFORNIA  GARDENS. 

Without  undertaking  to  learn  what  the  systematists  have  decreed, 
for  such  rough  classification  as  this  work  requires,  the  term  "plant" 
will  cover  everything  from  a  violet  to  a  sequoia  gigantea.  When  occa- 
sion arises  for  differentiation  between  the  terms  "shrub"  and  "plant," 
the  term  "shrub"  will  be  applied  to  rather  small  growths  of  a  woody 
character  which  in  their  natural  development  do  not  reach  sufficient 
height  to  be  called  "trees."  The  height  properly  belonging  to  a  shrub 
would  normally  be  less  than  ten  or  twelve  feet.  Contrasting  with 
this,  a  "plant"  would  be  a  vegetable  affair  which  makes  only  soft  or 
herbaceous  growth,  reproducing  such  shoots  from  the  root  crown  or 
lateral  roots,  and  never  attaining  a  woody  texture  in  these  shoots. 
Height  cannot  be  prescribed  for  "plants"  because  some  soft  herbaceous 
stems  rise  higher  than  some  woody  stems.  The  only  reason  for  pre- 
scribing height  for  a  shrub  is  to  conveniently  distinguish  shrubs  from 
trees,  both  of  which,  of  course  make  practically  the  same  character  of 
woody  growth,  but  "trees"  project  this  growth  more  than  ten  or  twelve 
feet  from  the  ground  and  sustain  it  there  without  support.  Whenever 
a  herbaceous  or  woody  stem  reaches  considerable  extension,  but  can- 
not gain  much  elevation  without  support,  it  is  a  "vine." 

California's  Wealth  of  Shrubs. — A  comprehensive  discussion  of  the 
shrubs  available  for  California  gardens  is  beyond  the  writer's  space 
and  knowledge.  It  would  be  a  charming  subject  to  grow  wise  about 
and  no  doubt  ere  long  some  one,  with  proper  botanical  and  cultural 
equipment,  will  undertake  it.  How  broad  is  our  natural  suitability  for 
shrubs  of  all  climates  may  be  inferred  from  the  statements  made  on 
pages  8  and  9.  It  is  a  fact  that  a  visitor  from  any  part  of  the  earth, 
except  perhaps  from  tropical  jungles,  is  likely  to  see  in  some  California 
park  or  garden  some  flower,  shrub,  tree  or  vine  which  he  has  been 
wont  to  see  at  home  and  he  may  see  it  here  better  cared  for  and 
honored  than  at  home,  for  both  plants  and  prophets  may  have  more 
honor  abroad  than  in  their  own  country.  And  that  suggests  a  brief 
reference  to  the  claim  that  California  planters  would  show  more 
patriotism  and  better  taste  if  they  should  make  gardens  of  plants 
native  to  the  state  and  not  draw  so  heavily  on  the  world's  flora.  One 
statement  of  that  claim  is  made  by  Mr.  Wilhelm  Miller,  a  distinguished 
esthetico-horticulturist  of  New  York  City,  in  these  words: 

"What  gorgeous  opportunity  California  has  to  work  out  a  unique 
style  of  landscape  gardening  based  upon  her  native  trees,  shrubs,  vines, 
and  flowers.  It  is  one  of  the  richest  spots  on  the  earth's  surface  in 


PLATE  10:     "HELIOTROPES  CAN  BE  CARRIED  THROUGH  FROST  BY  FLAI- 
TRAINING  AGAINST  THE  HOUSE  WALL"— PAGE  234. 


DESIRABLE  NATIVE  SHRUBS  225 

variety  of  plants  worth  cultivating  for  their  beauty.  These  plants,  as 
a  rule,  will  not  thrive  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  this  fact  alone 
will  guarantee  California  an  appearance  different  from  all  the  rest  of 
the  United  States.  *  *  *  Surely  the  most  cultivated  people  of  Cali- 
fornia must  realize  that  there  is  something  more  refined  than  miles 
of  scarlet  geraniums,  acres  of  callas  and  millions  of  crotons  and  cannas. 
Think  of  the  noble  Monterey  Cypress  and  all  your  pines,  firs,  and  red- 
woods, which  are  the  wonder  and  glory  of  the  world.  Think  of  your 
Christmas  berry,  a  finer  plant  than  the  old  world  holly.  Such  plants 
and  others  should  be  dominant  in  California  landscape  and  gardens, 
instead  of  the  gaudy  plants  of  foreign  climes,  which  make  California 
seem  an  imitation  of  other  lands." 

We  are  glad  to  admit  the  claim  for  the  sake  of  those  whose  tastes 
may  delight  in  the  undertaking  outlined,  but  as  a  principle  of  faith 
and  practice  in  California  gardening  generally  it  does  not  appeal  to  us. 
California  native  plants  are  grand.  They  are  worthy  of  all  honor  and 
of  the  increasing  attention  which  they  are  commanding  in  our  newer 
landscape  architecture  and  in  amateur  gardening,  but  for  greater 
variety  of  forms  and  more  abundant  color,  for  quick  growth  and  de- 
velopment of  bloom  and  for  easy  culture,  we  need  to  give  increased 
attention  also  to  the  good  things  which  come  to  us  from  the  outside  world. 
And  it  should  not  be  forgotten  that  it  is  to  California's  adaptability 
to  the  growth  of  a  great  and  diverse  exotic  flora,  even  more  than  to  the 
unique  style  of  her  native  plants,  that  the  recognition  of  her  difference 
from  all  the  rest  of  the  United  States  is  due. 

But  while  we  cling  resolutely  to  our  miles  of  red  geraniums  and  the 
multitude  of  other  showy  exotic  shrubs  which  one  will  find  in  public 
and  private  places  all  through  the  valleys  and  mesas  of  the  state,  we 
do  not  undervalue  the  wealth  of  our  native  shrubs  although  we  are 
not  able  to  enumerate  the  items  of  that  wealth.  The  reader  who  has 
thirst  for  that  complete  knowledge  must  seek  it  in  the  botanical 
treatises  mentioned  in  the  footnote  on  page  8.  Others,  whose  desire  is 
to  know  the  most  striking  of  the  native  shrubs  which  have  already 
been  employed  in  California  gardens  to  greater  or  less  extent,  will  be 
interested  and  edified  by  the  compilation  which  we  shall  undertake 
from  the  writings*  of  Mr.  Theodore  Payne  of  Los  Angeles,  whose 
enterprise  in  making  such  growths  available  to  planters  is  commend- 
able: 

SUGGESTIONS  OF  DESIRABLE  NATIVE  SHRUBS. 
The  California  Lilacs. — There  are  many  species  of  Ceanothus,  which 
in  early  spring  present  a  most  charming  appearance  on  many  of  our 
hillsides,  with  their  long  sprays  of  delicate,  fragrant  flowers,  ranging 

transactions  and  Proceedings  California  Association  of  Nurserymen,  1912  and 
1913.  H.  W.  Kruckeberg,  Secretary,  Los  Angeles. 


226  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

in  colors  from  pure  white,  pale  blue  to  bright  and  dark  blue  shades. 
They  are  propagated  from  seed,  are  of  easy  culture,  rapid  growth  and 
particularly  valuable  for  dry  places.  Ceanothus  thyrsiflorus  is  one  of 
the  best  known.  It  forms  a  handsome  shrub  with  dark  green  shiny 
foliage  and  large  panicles  of  deep  blue  flowers.  C.  crassifolius  is  a 
white  flowered  species,  with  rather  rigid  stems  and  opposite  dentate 
leathery  leaves.  C.  integerrimus  is  from  a  higher  altitude,  being  found 
in  the  upper  chapparral  and  pine  belts.  It  often  covers  whole  moun- 
tain slopes  with  its  white  blossoms,  reminding  one  of  drifted  snow. 
It  is  a  tall,  loosely  branching  shrub  with  green  or  somewhat  brownish 
stems  and  light  green,  slightly  hairy  foliage. 

Southern  California  Sumacs. — Three  evergreen  shrubs  especially 
desirable  for  their  handsome  foliage  are  Rhus  laurina  (Sumach),  which 
grows  in  compact  form,  has  reddish  stems,  smooth  green  foliage  and 
clusters  of  small  white  flowers;  Rhus  integrifolia  is  especially  common 
near  the  sea  coast  and  has  thick,  leathery  rich  green  foliage.  R.  ovata 
forms  a  magnificent  shrub  with  extremely  handsome  thick,  glossy 
green  leaves. 

California  Buckthorns. — The  Wild  Coffee  (Rhamnus  calif ornica)  is 
well  known  and  is  a  shrub  which  is  in  great  demand.  Rhamnus  crocea 
is  a  low,  thick,  very  densely  branched  shrub  with  small  green  leaves 
and  insignificant  flowers  but  producing,  later  in  the  season,  quantities 
of  rich  scarlet  berries.  Rhamnus  crocea  var.  ilicifolia  is  a  form  of  the 
preceding  but  differs  considerably  in  growth,  forming  a  large,  branch- 
ing shrub  of  rapid  growth  with  holly-like  foliage  and  scarlet  berries. 

Evergreen  Cherry. — A  splendid  shrub  either  for  single  specimens 
or  for  hedges  is  the  Wild  Cherry  (Prunus  ilicifolia).  It  has  pretty, 
glossy  green,  holly-like  foliage  and  small  white  flowers.  Many  speci- 
mens are  to  be  found  in  some  of  the  large  gardens  around  Los  Angeles 
and  Pasadena  and  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  shrubs  grown. 

California  Juniper. — There  are  many  native  conifers  of  value  for 
dry-land  gardening.  There  is  one,  however,  which  is  particularly 
useful.  This  is  Juniperus  californica.  It  is  found  in  some  of  our  dry, 
sandy  washes  and  is  generally  a  dwarf  spreading  bush, 'but  occasionally 
attains  the  size  of  a  small  tree.  It  has  long  been  cultivated  in  Europe, 
and  we  could  use  it  to  great  advantage  in  our  gardens. 

California  Holly.— The  Christmas  Berry  or  California  Holly  (He- 
teromeles  arbutifolia)  is,  of  course,  well  known  and  greatly  admired 
by  everyone.  It  dees  exceedingly  well  under  cultivation.  Everyone 
knows  its  pretty  foliage  and  attractive  berries  used  so  plentifully  for 
decorating  at  Christmas  time,  but  few  realize  its  other  attractions.  An 
exceedingly  fine  specimen  is  on  the  grounds  of  ex-Senator  Bard  at 
Hueneme.  It  is  truly  a  magnificent  sight  with  its  large  trusses  of 
white  blossoms. 


NATIVE  CALIFORNIA  SHRUBS  227 

Monkey  Flower. — Almost  everywhere  in  our  foothills  can  be  found 
the  bush  monkey  flower  (Diplacus  glutinosus).  This  shrub  grows 
from  two  to  five  feet  high.  The  flowers  remind  one  of  an  azalea  and 
arc  usually  of  a  deep  rich  orange  color,  though  other  forms  are  fre- 
quently found,  sometimes  of  a  pale  creamy  white  and  occasionally  of 
a  dark  reddish  brown  shade.  This  plant  lends  itself  particularly  well 
to  cultivation,  and  if  watered  will  bloom  almost  the  entire  year  round. 
Diplacus  puniceus  is  found  near  San  Diego  and  is  of  similar  habit,  but 
has  crimson  scarlet  flowers. 

Atriplexes. — We  have  two  native  Salt  Bushes  useful  for  single  speci- 
mens, or  perhaps  more  particularly  for  hedges.  Atriplex  breweri  is 
common  along  our  coast.  It  is  easily  propagated  from  cuttings  and 
grows  rapidly  and  can  be  trimmed  into  a  solid  hedge.  The  leaves  and 
stems  are  of  a  grayish-green  color.  This  plant  has  been  cultivated 
very  largely  in  Santa  Barbara  and  has  often  been  spoken  of  as  the 
"Santa  Barbara  Salt  Bush."  Atriplex  canescens  is  a  desert  species  and 
is  desirable,  both  on  account  of  its  larger  and  more  silvery  foliage,  as 
well  as  its  large,  panicled  spikes  of  conspicuous  rose  colored  flower 
braces. 

Grease  Wood. — A  shrub  common  on  many  hillsides  is  the  Grease- 
wood  (Adenostoma  fasciculatum),  yet  few  people  seem  to  know  it. 
In  May,  many  hillsides  are  white  with  the  blossoms  of  this  shrub.  It 
flowers  in  large  feathery  panicles,  reminding  one  of  our  cultivated 
Spiraea  Japonica.  This  is  one  of  the  very  best  shrubs  for  dry  gar- 
dening and  should  be  grown  extensively. 

Wild  Buckwheat. — A  good  companion  for  the  preceding  and  found 
growing  under  similar  conditions  is  the  Wild  Buckwheat  (Eriogonum 
fasciculatum).  When  in  flower  it  is  a  charming  plant  with  its  deep 
olive-green  foliage  and  large  heads  of  white  flowers  delicately  shaded 
with  pink. 

Carpenteria. — One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  native  shrubs  is 
Carpenteria  californica,  forming  an  attractive  bush  from  five  to  eight 
and  sometimes  ten  feet  high,  freely  branching  and  of  fairly  rapid 
growth.  The  leaves  are  light  green  on  the  upper  surface,  smooth  or 
sometimes  with  a  few  scattered  teeth  on  the  margin  and  grayish  white 
beneath.  The  flowers  are  in  clusters  of  five  to  seven  and  sometimes 
as  many  as  twelve  blossoms.  They  are  large,  pure  white  with  yellow 
stamens  and  have  the  fragrance  of  the  Mock  Orange  flowers.  The 
seed  germinates  very  easily,  but  the  seedlings  are  apt  to  damp  off  and 
require  great  care  when  in  the  young  state. 

Yellow  Tree  Poppy. — A  good  companion  for  the  preceding  is  the 
yellow  tree  poppy  (Dendromecon  rigidum).  The  bush  grows  from  four 
to  eight  feet  high,  has  graceful  willow-like  foliage  and  bright  yellow 
flowers,  two  to  three  inches  in  diameter,  in  shape  and  color  almost 


228  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

exactly  like  the  Hunnemannia — see  page  178.  It  blooms  nearly  all  the 
year  round,  but  is  at  its  best  in  early  spring.  This  shrub  is  hard  to 
propagate. 

Flannel  Bush. — The  Fremontia  californica  grows  from  four  to 
fifteen  feet  high  and  reaches  its  greatest  perfection  on  the  desert  side 
of  our  mountains.  It  flowers  in  early  summer  and  the  bushes  are 
simply  a  mass  of  golden  yellow  flowers  two  to  three  inches  across. 
No  more  glorious  sight  can  be  imagined  than  a  mass  of  these  shrubs 
in  full  bloom. 

Fuchsia-flowered  Gooseberry. — This  common  shrub  in  our  foothills 
(Ribes  speciosum)  is  well  worth  cultivating  in  our  gardens.  It  trans- 
plants easily  and  can  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  grows  four  to  eight 
feet  high  and  is  of  spreading  habit.  The  flowers  are  about  an  inch 
long,  rich  cardinal  red,  hanging  in  long  sprays  much  like  a  fuchsia. 
It  is  nearly  evergreen  and  the  leaves  turn  to  beautiful  shades  of  red 
and  brown  in  the  early  part  of  summer  and  then  drop,  but  soon  after 
the  first  rain  in  the  fall  the  plants  burst  forth  with  a  new  covering  of 
rich  green  foliage. 

Flowering  Currants.— Three  other  species  of  Ribes  are  all  desirable. 
The  yellow  flowering  currant  (Ribes  tenuiflorum)  grows  in  dry  sandy 
washes,  forming  a  low  spreading  shrub  with  bright  green  leaves  and 
covered  early  in  spring  with  a  perfect  shower  of  small  yellow  flowers. 
The  pink  flowering  currant  (Ribes  malvaceum)  found  in  many  of  our 
foothills  is  of  rather  erect  growth  with  brown  stems,  rather  heavy  at- 
tractive foliage  and  drooping  racemes  of  pale  pink  flowers.  Another 
species  similar  to  the  preceding,  has  longer  racemes  of  flowers  which 
are  of  a  bright  pink  shade. 

Woolly  Blue  Curls. — On  many  dry  ridges  in  early  summer  may  be 
found  the  woolly  blue-curls  (Trichostema  lanatum).  It  is  of  shrubby 
form  with  small  crowded  leaves  resembling  the  foliage  of  the  common 
rosemary.  The  buds  and  flower  stems  are  covered  with  a  thick  purple 
wool,  the  flowers  themselves  being  of  a  deep  rich  shade  of  blue.  This 
plant  is  always  found  in  dry  places  and  will  not  stand  a  wet  situation. 

Manzanita. — The  Manzanita  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  wild 
shrubs.  It  flowers  in  the  early  part  of  winter  and  the  clusters  of 
fragrant,  waxen  bells,  contrast  well  with  the  pale  foliage  and  rich 
brown  stems.  There  are  many  species,  Arctostaphylos  tomentosa 
being  the  commonest  form  in  Southern  California.  A.  manzanita, 
common  throughout  the  state;  A.  glauca,  and  A.  patula  are  some  of  the 
most  desirable.  The  manzanita  is  hard  to  propagate,  the  seed  being 
uncertain,  and  very  slow  in  germinating.  One  grower  has  been  quite 
successful  in  layering  plants,  out  in  the  hills  and  afterwards  digging 
up  the  rooted  layers. 


NATIVE  CALIFORNIA  SHRUBS  229 

The  Mountain  Mahogany  (Cercocarpus  parvifolius)  is  a  pretty 
shrub  of  rather  spreading  habit  with  small  dark  green  leaves.  The 
flowers  are  quite  small  and  inconspicuous,  but  the  long  feathery  plumes 
of  its  fruit  are  quite  pretty.  It  is  particularly  valuable  for  planting  in 
dry  places. 

False  Mallow. — A  pretty  flowering  shrub  belonging  to  the  Malva 
family  and  found  in  dry  sandy  washes  is  Malvastrum  fasciculatum. 
The  flowers  are  closely  set  on  long  wand-like  branches,  are  of  deli- 
cate texture,  pale  pink  and  fragrant.  The  anthers  are  golden  brown 
and  with  the  pink  petals  contrast  well  against  the  grayish  hoary  foliage. 
Another  desirable  species  has  larger  flowers  of  a  rose  purple  shade. 

California  Flowering  Ash  (Fraxinus  dipetala)  is  a  deciduous  shrub 
growing  five  to  fifteen  feet  high  with  light  green  foliage  and  white 
flowers. 

Wild  Honeysuckle  (Lonicera  subspicata)  is  a  climbing  shrub  par- 
ticularly valuable  on  account  of  its  great  wealth  of  shiny  green  foliage. 
The  common  California  honeysuckle  is  Lonicera  hispida  var.  cali- 
fornica.  This  is  the  species  which  gives  the  beautiful  red  berries  some- 
times used  in  Christmas  decorations. 

As  Mr.  Payne's  observations,  as  above  outlined  (with  some  addi- 
tions of  our  own)  were  chiefly  made  in  the  southern  part  of  the  state, 
the  resident  in  central  or  northern  California  might  find  his  local  native 
shrubbery  somewhat  different  and  probably  greater  in  extent  and 
variety,  for  the  parts  of  the  state  with  greatest  rainfall  are  naturally 
richest  in  native  flora.  But  such  flora  will  be  found  to  include  most 
of  those  which  Mr.  Payne  has  emphasized  as  desirable,  though  other 
shrubs  may  take  the  place  of  some  which  he  mentions  as  found  in  the 
interior,  so-called  "desert  area,"  of  southern  California — which  is  not 
a  desert  but  very  fertile  usually,  as  soon  as  its  lack  of  moisture  is  sup- 
plied by  irrigation. 

Matilija  Poppy. — This  plant,  which  is  sometimes  called  California 
tree  poppy  (Romneya  coulteri)  is  often  regarded  as  the  greatest  wild 
flower  of  California,  and  it  has  figured  honorably  in  the  hands  of  our 
local  poets  and  painters.  Culturally  and  descriptively,  Mr.  Leonard 
Coates  of  Morganhill  says  of  it:  "Strictly  speaking,  it  is  a  semi- 
herbaceous  shrub,  growing  wild  on  the  hillsides  and  in  the  canyons  of 
Ventura  County  and  down  into  Mexico.  The  flowers  average  six 
inches  in  diameter,  and  sometimes  measure  seven  to  eight  inches 
across.  The  petals  are  pure  white  and  of  a  crinkled,  crape-like  nature. 
The  numerous  stamens  form  a  glorious  golden  tassel  in  the  center, 
the  flower  exhaling  a  delicate  fragrance  which  has  been  likened  to  that 
of  a  ripe  orange.  The  plant,  under  suitable  conditions  will,  in  a  very 
few  years,  reach  a  diameter  of  ten  to  twenty  feet,  and  half  the  height. 
They  transplant  with  great  difficulty,  unless  they  have  been  shifted 


230  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

several  times  and  have  become  well  established  in  the  pot,  after  which 
it  is  a  simple  matter  to  turn  them  out  wherever  it  may  be  desired  they 
shall  become  permanent — with  this  precaution,  however,  that  the  roots 
must  not  be  disturbed,  and  also  that  there  must  be  perfect  drainage 
and  but  little  water  given  in  the  summer  time.  If  allowed  plenty  of 
room  and  the  ground  is  kept  cultivated,  no  water  is  needed  other  than 
the  winter  rainfall.  Germination  of  the  seed  is  extremely  slow,  so 
much  so  that  almost  infinite  patience  is  required." 

The  plant  sends  out  numerous  horizontals  stems  which  rise  through 
the  soil  at  some  distance,  and  become  separately  rooted  some  time 
after  appearance.  When  such  a  new  plant  is  well  rooted  it  can  be 
successfully  transplanted  by  taking  up  in  the  autumn  and  cutting  away 
the  top  growth.  Transplanting  at  other  times  is  very  uncertain  of 
success. 

SUGGESTIONS  OF  EXOTIC  SHRUBS. 

The  possibilities  for  foreign  shrubs  in  California  has  already  been 
indicated  by  the  remark  that  nearly  everything  except  plants  of  strictly 
tropical  requirements  may  be  expected  to  thrive  somewhere  in  Cali- 
fornia. One  must  expect  exceptions  to  occur  in  his  local  experience 
because  the  state  is  exceedingly  varied  in  local  conditions  and  yet  it  is 
reasonable  to  try  whatever  appeals  to  you  as  very  desirable,  wherever, 
away  from  the  tropics,  you  may  see  it.  And  there  is  nowhere,  known 
to  us,  a  compilation  of  the  names  of  the  multitude  of  exotic  shrubs 
which  are  now  giving  their  growers  pleasure  in  this  state.  All  that  the 
writer  can  do  is  to  name  and  briefly  characterize  such  as  have  come 
under  his  observation,  and  this  would  indicate  that  they  are  more  or 
less  common  and  therefore  have  shown  some  degree  of  acceptance  of 
California  conditions: 

Almond. — The  flowering  almond,  in  pink,  white  and  red,  breaks  into 
bloom  from  January  to  March  in  different  situations  and  is  easily 
grown  and  beautiful. 

Azaleas  and  Rhodendrons. — There  are  grand  wild  azaleas  in  our 
mountains  which  the  early  summer  tourist  thoroughly  enjoys,  and 
some  have  successfully  installed  them  in  gardens,  but  those  chiefly 
found  in  cultivation  are  the  exotics  which  figure  in  the  world's  trade. 
The  amateur  who  expects  satisfaction  with  these  plants  must  study 
their  requirements,  as  indicated  in  other  publications,  and  match  his 
conditions  thereto  as  well  as  he  can,  and  begin  with  thrifty  plants  from 
the  nurseries.  They  should  be  planted  in  well-drained  peat  mixed  with 
sand,  or  leaf-mold  and  sand.  They  will  grow  well  out  of  doors  in 
deeply  shaded  places,  as  on  the  north  side  of  the  house  where  they  may 
get  the  morning  and  evening  sun,  or  under  large  trees.  They  blossom 
out  of  doors  from  April  through  July,  according  to  variety.  Usually 


BAMBOOS  AND  BROOMS  231 

they  are  grown  in  lath-houses  which  afford  a  slight  protection  from 
both  heat  and  cold.  Near  the  coast  they  may  with  safety  remain  out  of 
doors  all  winter  in  ordinary  seasons,  but  farther  inland,  where  frosts 
at  night  are  sharper,  they  should  be  transplanted  to  the  greenhouse  in 
October;  and  if  early  blooming  is  desired,  they  may  be  forced  by 
artificial  heat.  They  may  be  propagated  late  in  the  fall  and  in  early 
winter  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand.  They  will  root  in  six  weeks  with 
bottom  heat.  Without  it  they  may  require  three  months.  Pruning, 
if  needed  to  preserve  form,  should  be  done  after  the  flowering  season 
is  well  over.  July  is  a  good  month,  as  this  gives  the  plants  time  to 
make  new  wood  and  set  their  buds. 

Bamboo  and  Cane. — Bamboos  will  be  put  with  shrubs  because  they 
make  woody  stems  and  the  species  chiefly  found  in  California  gardens 
come  within  the  stature-limits  of  shrubs,  though  species  have  been  intro- 
duced which  reach  the  height  of  trees.  Truly,  however,  the  plants  are 
all  grasses  and  not  arborescent  at  all.  In  garden  work  they  are  very 
beautiful  for  their  feathery  foliage  and  grace  of  growth,  and  they  make 
fine  screens  or  low  wind-breaks.  They  will  accept  ordinary  garden 
soil  and  moisture,  though  they  seem  most  at  home  along  a  ditch  bank 
or  on  a  pond-side.  Some  species  make  running-roots  and  are  therefore 
less  desirable  for  fixed  places  than  those  which  grow  in  clumps.  The 
bamboos  form  seed  only  at  remote  periods,  which  is  desirable,  because, 
as  is  the  nature  of  many  grasses,  they  die  as  soon  as  they  form  seed, 
and  all  the  other  plants  of  the  same  generation,  made  by  dividing  roots 
or  taking  offsets,  will  die  also,  no  matter  where  they  may  be.  The  only 
way  to  get  a  new  plant  is  to  take  one  from  -another  generation,  and 
this  probably  can  be  had  from  large  propagators  who  may  have  started 
plants  from  the  seed  at  intervals.  Species  of  all  heights,  from  dwarf  to 
a  stature  of  50  feet  and  great  variety  of  foliage,  can  be  had  from  the 
nurseries.  All  the  bamboos  which  one  will  thus  obtain  are  hardy  and 
will  retain  foliage  through  ordinary  valley  frosts. 

The  soft-wooded  reed,  or  false  bamboo  (arundo  donax)  is  also  useful 
for  summer  growth  on  large  places.  It  has  not  the  beauty  of  the 
bamboo,  but  for  quick  growth  for  a  screen  or  wind-break  to  the  wind- 
ward of  summer-blooming  plants,  it  often  serves  a  good  purpose. 

True  tropical  sugar  cane  makes  a  good  summer  growth  in  places 
where  heat  runs  high  and  moisture  is  ample,  and  holds  life  in  the  root 
through  freezing  weather. 

Brooms. — All  the  "brooms"  are  found  abundantly  in  California 
gardens  growing  to  the  upper  limits  for  shrubs  and  full  of  beauty  and 
perfume.  The  most  common  are  the  Scotch  and  the  Spanish,  of  which 
we  prefer  the  latter  for  fullness  and  length  of  bloom.  It  has  two  set 
bloom  periods,  spring  and  autumn,  but  is  apt  to  break  out  between  and 
to  be  almost  continuous.  It  can  be  grown  either  in  bush  or  tree  form, 


232  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

but  in  the  latter  case  needs  a  good  stake  against  wind  storms  if  it  is 
grown  fast  with  high  culture.  The  Scotch  makes  a  relatively  larger 
show  of  foliage  and  stronger,  upright  growth,  while  the  Spanish  seems 
to  throw  most  of  its  force  into  flowers. 

Camellias. — The  Camellia  japonica  is  quite  hardy  in  California  and 
is  a  free  winter  bloomer,  both  on  the  coast  and  in  the  interior  valleys. 
It  is  very  easily  grown  and  requires  no  special  treatment,  except  that 
it  must  be  watered  moderately  during  the  dry  season,  and  it  should  be 
placed  so  that  it  will  not  have  the  full  force  of  the  summer  sun.  Dur- 
ing cold  storms  in  January  the  open  flowers  are  apt  to  be  discolored 
by  the  rain  and  the  opening  buds  are  sometimes  injured  by  long  rains 
and  temperature  a  little  too  low  to  force  their  opening;  but  the  plant  is 
usually  such  a  prolific  bloomer  that  one  is  likely  to  get  all  the  perfect 
ones  he  has  any  use  for.  The  Camellia  does  not  awaken  very  deep 
enthusiasm  probably  because  of  its  wax-like,  set  rosette  form  and  the 
absence  of  fragrance;  it  seems  stiff  and  cold,  though  its  colors  are 
varied  and  rich.  Camellias  have  reached  greatest  popularity  in  Sacra- 
mento, where  one  can  see  over  fifty  kinds  in  full  bloom  in  February  in 
the  gardens,  and  there  are  several  specimens  over  fifteen  feet  high  and 
carrying  over  a  thousand  flowers.  The  Camellia  is  held  to  be  less  satis- 
factory in  southern  California  than  in  the  central  part  of  the  state. 
Camellias  will  vary  a  great  deal  from  the  seed  and  seldom  reproduce 
the  flowers  of  the  parent  plant.  Usually  small  cuttings  can  be  used  to 
good  advantage;  take  wood  of  the  last  summer's  growth,  remove  two 
or  three  of  the  lower  leaves,  but  leave  the  upper  ones  and  plant  in  a 
box  of  sand  as  described  in  the  chapters  on  propagation.  These  cut- 
tings should  have  constant  moisture  and  a  fair  amount  of  heat,  but  the 
soil  should  not  be  too  wet,  nor  should  it  have  direct  sunshine. 

The  test  plant  is  a  camellia  of  another  species  and  has  been  successfully 
grown  in  the  state  ever  since  the  pioneers  of  1850  made  some  tea  near 
Coloma  in  El  Dorado  County.  Since  then  the  plant  has  been  grown  as  an 
ornamental  in  different  parts  of  the  state,  and  it  has  been  demonstrated 
to  succeed  both  in  coast  and  interior  situations.  The  requirements  for 
a  thrifty  plant  are  good  soil  and  moisture  enough  for  a  free  growth. 
The  plant  is  quite  hardy.  The  insuperable  objection  to  growth  of  tea 
in  California  is  the  cost  of  labor.  Probably  labor  in  California  would 
cost  five  to  ten  times  as  much  as  in  eastern  Asia. 

Cassias. — Cassia  artimesioides  is  a  winter  and  spring  flowering 
variety,  rather  dwarf  and  decidedly  one  of  the  prettiest  of  the  cassias. 
Its  gray-green  cut-leaved  foliage  is  very  attractive. 

Cantua. — This  low  shrub  with  its  small  leaves  (Cantau  buxifolia)  is 
called  "magic  tree" — perhaps  from  the  bursting  forth  of  long,  tubular 
flowers  from  its  scant  twig  growth,  which  is  indeed  surprising.  It 


_!__ 

PLATE  11:     'THE  CANARY  ISLAND  DATE  is  OUR  MOST  SPLENDID  HARDY 
PALM"— PAGE  240. 


MANY  EXOTIC  SHRUBS  233 

grows  well  in  the  open  air  along  the  coast  from  San  Francisco  south- 
ward. 

Cherry. — The  Japanese  flowering  cherries  are  being  more  freely 
used  for  their  early  spring  bloom  preceding  foliage;  large  flowers  of 
delicate  shades. 

Coprosma. — This  is  a  popular  low  shrub  in  most  parts  of  California 
because  of  its  good  behavior  in  the  open  air ;  its  round,  green  and 
glossy  leaves  and  its  showy  yellow  fruits.  It  is  sometimes  trained  up 
to  support  with  good  effect. 

Coral  Tree. — This  tall  shrub,  remarkable  for  its  handsome  red 
flowers,  a  summer  and  autumn  bloomer,  is  Erythrina  Christi  Galli,  or 
coral  tree.  It  is  deciduous  and  rests  three  months  during  the  winter 
in  most  places.  The  flowers  are  very  large,  pea-shaped,  brilliant  red 
shaded  with  maroon.  They  grow  in  spikes  not  infrequently  measuring 
two  feet  in  length  in  large  specimens.  When  in  full  bloom  this  splen- 
did tree  is  a  most  striking  object.  It  is  propagated  from  seed  or  well- 
grown  cuttings.  A  seven-year-old  plant  from  seed,  in  Ventura  County, 
has  reached  18  inches  in  circumference,  12  feet  in  height,  with  a  spread 
of  20  feet.  It  should  be  trimmed  back  every  year,  thoroughly  cultivated 
and  the  soil  enriched,  to  force  out  new  shoots,  which  run  quickly  to 
bloom-spikes. 

Corchorus  or  Kerria. — This  Japanese  shrub  which  shoots  from  the 
earth  abundantly,  slim  stems  with  crimped  leaves  and  thickly  set  with 
bright  yellow  rosettes,  is  very  beautiful.  Its  flowers  appear  early  in 
the  spring  and  are  repeated  through  the  growing  season.  The  plant 
makes  a  good  low  clump  if  it  has  space  for  enlargement. 

Cotoneaster. — Several  species  of  small-leaved,  low-growing  shrubs 
are  becoming  popular  because  of  the  rich  autumn  effects  of  their  abund- 
ant, bright  red  fruits,  both  for  garden  beauty  and  for  decoration.  They 
are  easily  grown  and  very  satisfactory. 

Crab-Apple. — Not  only  are  the  crab-apples  grown  for  fruit  exceed- 
ingly showy  and  beautiful  in  their  bloom,  but  special  varieties  are 
propagated  mainly  for  bloom  and  called  "flowering  crabs."  They 
produce  fine  effects  in  spring  bloom  and  carry  good  summer  foliage. 

Crataegus. — The  species  of  the  hawthorne  family  (called  crenulata 
and  pyracantha  according  to  the  taste  of  the  botanist)  and  popularly 
known  as  the  "'fire  thorn,"  is  a  grand  sight  with  its  red  thorns  and 
autumn  load  of  orange-red  fruits.  It  is  a  free,  thrifty  grower  and  a  joy 
to  the  garden.  The  cotoneasters,  crataeguses  and  pyracanthas  are 
closely  inter-related. 

Daphne. — This  glossy-leaved  low  shrub,  with  its  highly-perfumed, 
waxy  flowers  is  delightful  to  have  if  one  can  grow  it  well.  We  have 
seen  excellent  specimens  in  various  coast  situations.  They  seem  to 
need  well  drained  soil  and  partial  shade. 


234  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Diosma. — This  plant,  with  its  miniature  coniferous,  fragrant  foliage 
and  white  starry  bloom  abundant  in  it,  has  a  modest  beauty  either  as  a 
single  plant  or  in  low  hedge  form.  It  is  very  easily  grown  and  is  con- 
tented with  ordinary  garden  conditions. 

Deutzia. — Deutzias  are  very  graceful  with  their  slim  branches 
thickly  set  with  white  or  blush  blossoms.  The  beauty  of  the  plant 
depends  largely  upon  cutting  back  after  blooming  to  force  out  new 
growth  of  flowering  shoots.  The  plants  are  easily  grown  from  seed  or 
cuttings,  both  hard  and  soft,  as  described  in  Chapter  VIII.  Deutzias 
do  well  with  ordinary  garden  soil  and  treatment. 

Geraniums. — These  plants  in  their  great  variety  of  foliage  and 
bloom-colors  are  too  well  known  to  warrant  discussion,  and  yet  so 
important  in  the  joy  of  the  garden  that  to  omit  them  would  be  un- 
grateful discrimination.  They  all  come  readily  from  cuttings  and 
they  sow  themselves  also — myriads  of  new  plants  beneath  and  around 
old  ones,  during  the  rainy  season.  And  though  so  common  and  so 
easily  multiplied,  the  geraniums  and  their  aristocracy,  the  pelar- 
goniums, are  well  worthy  the  amateur's  more  careful  attention. 
Nurserymen  offer  new  varieties  of  great  desirability,  and  the  amateur 
who  undertakes  to  improve  his  home  collection  by  securing  larger 
blooms,  choicer  colors  and  better  foliage,  will  derive  much  satisfaction 
therefrom. 

Heliotrope. — Heliotrope  is  at  home  in  the  open  air  in  all  places 
where  frosts  are  light  and  can  be  carried  through  several  degrees  of 
frost  by  training  flat  against  a  house-wall  as  shown  in  Plate  10. 
Handled  in  this  way  it  gives  almost  continuous  bloom,  enjoying  full 
summer  sun  and  being  protected  from  many  frosts  which  might  other- 
wise blacken  its  outer  growth.  This  training  also  makes  it  easy  to 
remove  excess  shoots  and  avoiding  smothering,  which  turns  the  in- 
terior of  a  large  bush  into  a  mass  of  dead  brush.  In  bush  form  it 
should  be  often  cut  back  for  a  new  start.  New  plants  are  easily  made 
by  layering  the  shoots  which  rest  upon  the  ground. 

Holly. — The  English  holly,  usually  counted  a  shrub,  makes  a  pyra- 
midal tree  very  readily  in  California,  though  it  will  endure  cutting 
back  to  hedge  form,  if  one  choose,  and  its  use  for  Christmas  decora- 
tions makes  that  more  desirable.  It  can  be  easily  propagated  by 
planting  the  berries  in  seed  boxes,  as  described  on  page  60,  or  from 
cuttings  either  in  the  open  ground  or  in  boxes  under  frames.  The 
English  holly  is  dioecious,  and  to  secure  the  desirable  fruit  it  is  neces- 
sary to  have  staminate  and  pistillate  plants  associated,  most  of  the 
trees  pistillate,  as  one  staminate  tree  will  fertilize  a  large  number  of 
pistillate. 

Hydrangeas. — These  shrubs  attain  wonderful  growth  in  the  open 
air  in  most  coast  and  valley  situations  if  given  more  or  less  shade, 


MANY  EXOTIC  SHRUBS  235 

according  to  the  fervency  of  the  local  sunshine.  In  coast  situations, 
both  north  and  south,  they  may  grow  to  a  height  of  six  feet  or  more 
and  a  greater  spread  of  branches,  while  single  blooms  in  late  autumn 
and  winter  may  be  a  foot  in  diameter.  They  do  well  in  openings 
among  trees  if  given  proper  amount  of  cultivation  and  moisture.  The 
plants  are  easily  grown  from  branch-cuttings  whenever  the  soil  is 
reasonably  moist  and  warm. 

Jasmines. — "Cape  jasmine,"  which  is  not  a  jasmine  but  a  gardenia, 
does  not  altogether  enjoy  California  dry  air,  though  some  satisfactory 
specimens  can  be  found.  It  requires  moist  and  warm  air  during  the 
growing  and  blooming  season,  though  quite  severe  cold  will  not  injure 
the  root. 

Jasminum  officinale,  our  common  white  jasmine,  is  very  satisfac- 
tory with  its  clean  compound  leaves  and  flowers  in  terminal,  leafy 
clusters — each  a  little  nosegay  by  itself.  It  endures  heat  and  drouth 
and  does  not  resent  neglect,  although  care  and  especially  close  autumn 
pruning  or  shearing  to  induce  many  flower  stems,  keeps  the  plant 
within  bounds  and  floriferous.  It  does  well  against  a  south  wall,  but 
will  accept  what  it  can  get  and  trained  as  a  vine  will  cover  large  space. 
It  grows  readily  from  cuttings.  Another  white  jasmine  is  grandi- 
florum,  of  light  and  spare  foliage  and  straggling  growth,  needing  sup- 
port; but  the  flowers  are  always  sweet.  They  thrive  in  rich,  deep  soil, 
in  a  sheltered  location,  and  need  very  little  pruning. 

The  yellow  jasmine  is  of  a  more  shrubby  growth  and  makes  a  fine 
plant  for  a  lawn.  It  is  a  rank  grower  and  will  in  time  reach  a  great 
height,  though  it  must  be  pruned  severely  at  times.  It  is  an  ever- 
green and  always  in  bloom  in  warm-winter  places. 

Jerusalem  Cherry. — This  plant  is  Solanum  pseudocapsicum,  the 
specific  name  derived  from  resemblance  of  the  fruit  to  a  small  red  pep- 
per. It  is  a  very  handsome  ornamental  shrub  when  filled  with  its 
bright  red  fruit,  contrasting  with  the  deep  green  foliage.  Why  it  is 
called  Jerusalem  cherry  is  not  known,  for  it  is  not  a  cherry  and  did 
not  come  from  Jerusalem.  The  plant  is  a  native  of  Madeira  and  was 
taken  thence  to  England  several  hundred  years  ago.  It  is  often  sold 
in  pots  for  holiday  decorations,  but  one  can  have  it  in  the  open  ground 
all  during  the  frost-free  season  and  it  grows  easily  from  seed. 

Laburnum, — This  is  a  most  beautiful  tall  shrub  or  small  tree  with 
handsome  roundish  leaves  and  long  streamers  of  pea-like  golden 
flowers  which  have  been  aptly  named  the  plant  "golden  chains."  It 
blooms  toward  the  end  of  the  rainy  season  the  flowers  being  followed 
by  rather  conspicuous  dark-colored  seed  pods  which  may  be  clipped  off 
to  advantage  of  the  appearance  of  the  plant — unless  one  wishes  to  get 
the  seed. 


236  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Lantanas. — These  showy  plants  are  very  satisfactory  as  self-sus- 
taining shrub-masses  or  as  low  climbers  to  be  trained  against  walls, 
fences,  etc.  They  have  a  wide  range  of  brilliant  colors  and  changing 
effects  as  the  flowers  age,  which  are  interesting.  They  will  endure 
only  light  frosts  without  protection. 

Laurestinus. — A  handsome  dark  green,  medium-height  shrub  with 
abundant  fall  and  winter  white  bloom  and  capable  of  being  grown 
singly  or  in  a  hedge.  It  is  frequently  used  in  cemetery  planting,  and 
is  on  the  whole  rather  somber. 

Lavender. — The  shrubby  lavender,  grown  in  England  as  a  com- 
mercial crop,  takes  kindly  to  California  conditions,  even  enjoying  full 
sunshine  on  gravelly  soil,  but  better  treatment  agrees  with  it  and 
ordinary  garden  conditions  give  good  results  in  "lavender  sticks"  of 
great  length.  It  is  easily  propagated  from  cuttings  of  one  season's 
growth,  cut  with  a  small  piece  of  the  older  wood  attached,  and  planted 
in  spring  or  fall.  These  are  set  three  to  four  inches  apart  in  rather 
moist  soil  and  shaded  until  they  root.  Division  of  the  plant  is  also 
practiced. 

Lemon  Verbena. — The  deliciously  scented  foliage  of  this  small  tree- 
like shrub  makes  it  always  desirable  if  well  grown,  though  it  becomes 
too.  scant-leaved  and  scrawny  if  not  well  treated.  It  needs  frequent 
cutting  back  after  flowering  to  force  out  new  leafy  growth,  and 
although  it  will  endure  much  drouth  its  appearance  is  much  less  satis- 
factory. The  bloom  is  negligible;  the  scented  leaves  are  the  chief  at- 
traction of  the  plant. 

Lilacs. — Probably  all  the  lilac  group  of  the  syringas  have  been 
brought  to  California.  We  have  grown  a  large  bunch  of  them  and  have 
found  the  common  white  and  purple  varieties  more  satisfactory  than 
the  others.  These  make  very  free  growth,  rising  to  the  highest  limits 
•for  shrubs  and  give  grand  foliage  and  bloom  in  places  where  the 
summer's  heat  does  not  run  too  high  and  where  the  spring  warmth 
comes  early,  for  the  plants  are  very  restless  under  California  winter 
conditions  and  sometimes  begin  work  too  soon  to  get  a  good  bloom- 
spread.  The  plants  should  be  kept  from  too  early  dormancy  by  suf- 
ficient summer  irrigation,  so  that  they  may  grow  longer  in  the  autumn 
and  be  inclined  to  rest  longer  in  the  rainy  season.  They  should  be 
pruned  soon  after  blooming  to  induce  growth  of  new  blooming  wood 
and  many  thin,  ineffective  shoots  may  be  thinned  out  or  shortened  for 
better  starts. 

Malva. — The  tree  malva  (Lavatera)  is  very  common  in  all  parts  of 
the  state  around  old  ranch  houses,  and  growing  frequently  on  vacant 
lots  in  our  cities.  It  is  very  drouth-resistant  and  has  been  frequently 
mentioned  as  desirable  for  forage  purposes.  If  it  were  not  so  com- 
mon it  would  be  counted  very  handsome.  Its  chief  value  at  the 


MANY  EXOTIC  SHRUBS  237 

present  time  seems  to  be  as  a  quickly  growing  shade  and  forage  plant 
in  chicken  yards,  where  it  serves  a  most  excellent  purpose,  or  for 
making  a  screen  in  front  of  unsightly  objects.  It  comes  from  the  seed 
to  a  height  of  six  feet  or  more  and  full  bloom  within  a  year. 

Oleander. — Both  the  pink  and  while  oleanders  are  very  conspicuous 
in  the  warmer  valleys  of  California,  where  they  are  very  popular  for 
their  gorgeous  floral  effects.  They  enjoy  the  fullest  heat  and  will  get 
along  with  moderate  moisture.  In  the  low  summer  temperature  of 
some  points  near  the  coast  they  do  not  open  their  flowers  well,  and 
are  undesirable. 

Peach. — The  double  white  and  double  pink  flowering  peaches  are 
beautiful  garden  ornaments  and  give  much  desirable  branch-cutting 
for  house  decoration.  The  pink  is  the  stronger  grower. 

Peonies. — The  herbaceous  peonies  are  but  little  grown  in  California 
in  spite  of  the  beautiful  colors  and  shades  which  have  been  developed 
in  them.  We  have  seen  as  fine  blooms  here  and  there  in  California 
as  we  ever  saw  anywhere,  but  thus  far  they  have  not  achieved  popu- 
larity. The  Japanese  arborescent  peonies  do  well  in  most  parts  of  the 
coast  region  except  that  they  are  disposed  to  bloom  during  the  rainy 
season  and  are  sometimes,  in  this  part  of  the  state,  destroyed  of 
beauty  by  drenching  winter  rains.  Sometimes,  too,  the  plants  become 
unthrifty,  which  is  probably  due  to  summer  drying,  to  which  they  are 
not  accustomed.  Evidently  the  needs  and  behavior  oi  the  tree  peonies 
need  to  be  carefully  studied  by  all  who  undertake  to  grow  collections 
of  them. 

Poinsettias. — The  approach  of  winter,  especially  in  southern  Cali- 
fornia, is  made  gorgeous  by  the  abundant  bloom  of  the  poinsettias. 
The  plant  thrives  in  the  open  air  near  the  coast.  From  Santa  Barbara 
southward  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  the  plant  ten  feet  in  height,  with 
a  spread  of  fifteen  feet  and  a  stem  four  inches  or  more  in  diameter. 
The  branches  of  these  large  plants  are  numerous  and  each  one  is 
terminated  with  bracts  of  the  most  intense  and  brilliant  scarlet,  the 
largest  of  which  measure  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  across.  They 
bloom  for  three  months  and  are  invaluable  in  gardens  and  parks,  hav- 
ing a  brilliant  effect  and  bloom  most  profusely  when  other  flowers  are 
scarce.  After  losing  its  foliage  the  plant  should  be  cut  back  to  within 
a  few  eyes  of  the  old  wood.  It  grows  readily  from  cuttings,  which 
can  ibe  started  in  the  open  ground.  On  large  grounds  it  is  very 
effective  planted  in  groups. 

Quince. — The  Japanese  flowering  quince,  in  different  shades  of 
pink,  is  the  first  of  the  deciduous  growths  to  appear  in  midwinter. 
The  shrub  clothes  its  branches  with  abundant  large  bloom  and  flashes 
out  like  a  flame  while  the  garden  is  apt  to  be  a  little  somber.  The 


238  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

long  bloom-bearing  shoots  are  very  effective  in  large  vases.  The 
plant  grows  itself  under  ordinary  conditions. 

'Snowball. — This  popular  eastern  shrub  is  not  so  abundantly  seen 
in  this  state,  but  it  does  well  none  the  less  and  is  glad  to  repay  old 
affection  in  the  new  California  dooryard. 

Spiraeas. — This  group,  including  the  old  "bridal  wreath,"  has  a  long 
summer-blooming  season  in  this  state  and  thrives  with  only  ordinary 
care. 

Streptosolon. — This  plant,  which  has  foliage  like  the  heliotrope 
and  masses  of  orange-yellow  blossoms,  is  very  striking  and  satisfac- 
tory and  is  becoming  more  popular.  It  may  be  grown  as  a  shrub- 
mass  in  a  sunny  exposure,  and  it  also  does  beautifully  on  the  sunny 
side  of  a  wall  or  fence  to  which  it  may  be  trained  as  a  low  climber.  It 
is  almost  a  continuous  bloomer,  except  during  a  short  rest  in  January. 

Syringa. — The  "sweet  syringa"  grows  to  the  limits  of  shrub  sizes 
in  good  soil  and  blooms  profusely.  The  writer  has  enjoyed  the  effect 
of  training  against  a  high  fence  a  large  bush  which  was  increasing 
beyond  available  limits. 

Tamarix. — The  feathery  foliage  of  the  tamarix  is  always  a  striking 
object  and  its  plumes  of  pink  flowers  are  beautiful.  It  accepts  even 
rather  hard  situations  and  is  grateful. 

Weigelia. — The  tubular  pink  flowers  of  the  weigelia  are  quite  com- 
mon in  California  and  the  plant  is  a  good  grower  and  hardy,  requiring 
only  ordinary  conditions  to  give  satisfaction  almost  everywhere. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 
GARDEN  PALMS  FOR  CALIFORNIA. 

Palms  should  receive  wider  and  more  discriminating  attention  from 
Californians.  It  is  true  that  we  are  planting  a  good  many,  but  we  are 
not  using  them  in  a  way  befitting  their  great  beauty  and  their  great 
variety  in  size  and  form.  We  are  fortunate  in  possessing  a  climate  in 
which  very  many  palms  are  perfectly  hardy  and  in  that  respect  Cali- 
fornia differs  from  other  regions  in  our  own  latitude  in  the  United 
States.  We  are  able,  then,  to  give  our  landscape  striking  features 
which  we  can  ourselves  continually  enjoy  and  which  will  appeal 
strongly  to  the  visitors  who  come  to  us  from  the  more  northerly 
countries.  California  should  become,  in  all  save  the  higher  altitudes, 
distinguishable  as  a  land  of  palms. 

But  for  this  reason,  amateurs  should  not  rush  into  planting  palms 
without  forethought  and  calculation.  It  requires  ample  resources  of 
land  and  money  to  indulge  in  palm  collections,  for,  aside  from  a  few 
which  are  largely  used,  the  plants  require  considerable  outlay.  Be- 
sides, one  is  apt  to  place  the  small  plants  so  near  together  that  they 
grow  into  crowding  each  other  and  afford  no  perspective  views  of  their 
beautiful  forms  and  attitudes.  Again,  indulgence  in  palm  collections 
should  never  be  entered  upon  without  knowledge  of  the  local  tem- 
perature records  and  a  study  of  the  limits  of  different  palm  species. 
A  few  of  them  will  endure  any  temperature  which  has  visited  Cali- 
fornia valleys,  even  to  fifteen  degrees  below  freezing  perhaps,  others 
resent  frost  like  a  lemon  tree.  Therefore  one  should  have  a  reasonable 
enthusiasm  over  palm  planting. 

What  California  Can  Do  with  Palms. — We  measure  our  palm  possi- 
bilities by  what  has  already  been  accomplished  in  places  which  have 
been  properly  selected.  On  page  9  is  a  statement  by  Dr.  Franceschi 
which  credits  the  Santa  Barbara  region  with  successfully  growing  in 
the  open  air  not  less  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  species  of  palms.  Mr. 
Thomas  Compton  gives  further  details  concerning  the  growing  of 
palms  in  the  Montecito  Valley: 

"The  palm  is  the  grandest  and  most  striking  feature  of  the  whole 
vegetable  kingdom.  Palms  range  in  height  from  one  or  two  feet  to  one 
hundred  feet  and  can  be  used  for  the  ornamentation  of  avenues, 
grouping  for  landscape  effects,  or  as  single  specimens.  In  the  Phoenix 
palms  we  have  between  twenty  and  thirty  different  species  and  almost 
as  many  shades  of  foliage.  About  twenty-five  species  of  Cocos  have 
been  tried  and  successfully  grown.  They  range  in  height  from  six  to 
ten  feet.  Some  are  very  striking  objects;  all  are  graceful  and  should 
be  more  extensively  used  than  at  present.  The  australis  type  of  the 


240  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

Cocos  is  the  most  justly  admired  palm  in  every  garden  where  they 
have  been  used.  Kentias  have  a  very  graceful  drooping  habit.  Five 
of  the  varieties  have  been  grown  with  success.  The  Sabals  are  rather 
slow  in  forming  a  trunk;  some  of  the  species  attain  a  height  of  one 
hundred  feet  and  are  stately,  massive  and  grand.  Fifteen  varieties  are 
known  to  be  hardy  in  Montecito.  Thrinax  is  a  drooping,  graceful, 
fan-leaved  variety.  Six  of  the  species  are  known  to  succeed  here. 
There  are  over  one  hundred  species  of  palms  that  are  known  to  flourish 
luxuriantly  in  the  Santa  Barbara  region." 

There  are  mesas  bordering  other  California  valleys  where  quite  as 
much  can  be  done,  but  they  must  be  sought  and  verified  in  advance  of 
investment  for  this  particular  purpose. 

Kinds  of  Palms. — Limitations  of  space  will  not  allow  us  to  pre- 
sent even  such  limited  knowledge  as  we  have  about  the  different  kinds 
of  palms  which  are  generally  hardy  and  available  for  common  garden 
planting.  There  are  a  dozen  or  twenty  of  that  class  and  the  nursery- 
men describe  them  in  their  catalogues  and  can  furnish  them  at  reason- 
able prices.  Beyond  that  one  has  to  go  to  the  specialists  in  palms. 
The  safe  and  sure  ones  can  also  be  seen  in  the  parks  and  older  gardens 
in  the  different  regions  of  California.  The  intending  planter  should 
make  such  local  studies  for  himself. 

The  palms  which  have  been  used  in  largest  quantities  are  the  Cali- 
fornia fan  palm,  the  Japanese  fan  palm,  the  fruiting  date  palm  and  the 
Canary  Island  date  palm.  All  these  are  tall  growing  and  available  for 
street  or  avenue  planting,  if  one  likes  palms  at  all  for  that  purpose. 

Most  notable  is  the  Canary  Island  date  palm,  of  which  a  portrait  is 
given  on  plate  11.  It  is  our  most  splendid  hardy  palm  and  the  planting 
of  it  has  been  so  widespread  during  the  last  few  years  that  it  bids  fair 
to  displace  the  native  fan  palm  as  the  most  prevalent  palm  in  the  state. 
It  is  strikingly  superior  thereto  in  grace  and  beauty;  is  quite  as  hardy 
and  can  be  as  readily  grown  from  the  seed.  It  thus  becomes  available 
for  the  widest  planting  and  none  need  miss  its  possession  on  the 
ground  of  cost.  It  should  be  planted  widely  over  our  valleys  and 
foothills,  for  its  graceful  head  of  foliage  and  its  rhythmically  swaying 
leaves  are  fitting  and  beautiful  in  almost  all  situations,  but  one  must 
remember  to  give  it  room  enough.  The  plant  shown  in  the  engraving 
has  a  spread  of  foliage  26^  feet  in  diameter  and  is  33  feet  in  height. 
Its  beauty  attracts  the  attention  of  passers-by  and  rewards  them  for 
the  study  they  make  of  its  symmetry  and  beautiful  arrangement  of 
leaves.  It  is  a  staminate  plant  and  different  in  robustness  and  density 
of  crown,  from  the  pistillate,  the  latter  being,  so  far  as  we  have  ob- 
served it,  a  more  open  and  smaller  plant — more  airy  and  light  and 
perhaps  to  some  tastes  more  graceful.  For  ornamental  purposes  the 
Canary  Island  plant  is  greatly  superior  to  the  fruit-bearing  date,  which 
has  a  more  bristling  and  bustling  aspect,  as  a  plant  should  which  is 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  PALMS  241 

charged  with  such  important  business.  The  Canary  palm  is  simply 
beautiful,  and  acts  as  though  it  were  aware  of  the  fact — which  is  not 
a  fault  in  a  plant-beauty. 

Planting  Palms. — Young  palms  can  be  transplanted  without  taking 
earth  with  the  roots  if  they  are  not  to  be  subject  to  long  exposure, 
but  the  percentage  of  success  will  depend  upon  the  care  taken.  Mr. 
H.  E.  Butler  of  Penryn  has  succeeded  notably  in  this  way:  Dig  a  hole 
considerably  larger  than  the  base  of  the  palm.  Break  up  the  lumps 
and  mix  the  dirt  with  manure,  or  complete  fertilizer  and  old  leaves, 
fine  grass,  etc.,  for  humus.  Fill  the  hole  with  the  mixture,  pack  it 
down,  then  dig  out  enopgh  dirt  in  such  a  way  as  to  leave  a  cone,  in 
the  center  of  the  hole,  with  its  point  level  with  the  ground,  and  flat- 
tened for  the  palm  to  rest  on.  Then  spread  the  roots  evenly  over  the 
sides  of  the  cone  and  pack  the  rich  fine  earth  over  them.  The  packing 
is  important,  to  prevent  the  plant  from  settling  with  the  dirt  if  un- 
packed. The  palm  cannot  thrive  if  any  part  except  its  roots  is  under- 
ground. Failure  follows  setting  the  plants  too  deep.  Even  if  such 
plants  live  they  fail  to  grow  well. 

Transplanting  Large  Palms. — Large  palms  can  be  moved  success- 
fully with  few  roots  if  abundant  watering  is  done  to  keep  the  large 
trunk  from  drying  out;  therefore  water  should  be  applied  freely  to  the 
trunk.  Palms  are  very  easy  to  move  because  they  have  rope-like  roots 
which  hold  a  ball  of  earth  together.  It  is  not  likely  to  break  and  fall 
apart  as  in  the  case  of  moving  other  trees.  Trench  around  the  plant 
with  a  sharp  spade  so  that  the  inside  of  the  trench  shall  be  a  foot 
or  more  (according  to  size  of  plant)  from  the  base  of  the  palm.  Go 
down  a  foot  or  two  feet  (according  to  size  of  plant,  again)  and  then 
cut  under  with  the  spade,  until  the  plant  stands  in  a  loose  ball  of  earth. 
Lift  out,  with  tackle  if  necessary;  settle  the  earth  in  the  new  place  with 
water  and  keep  moist.  Remove  a  good  part  of  the  leaves  before 
moving. 

Growing  Palms  from  Seed. — Canary  date  palms  and  California  fan 
palms  grow  very  readily  from  the  seed;  the  former  particularly  so, 
and  in  fact  often  volunteers  if  the  ground  under  the  tree  happens  to 
be  kept  moist.  No  treatment  should  be  necessary  except  to  keep  con- 
tinuously moist,  but  not  wet.  To  put  in  ordinary  soil  in  full  sunshine 
and  water  once  in  a  while  gives  an  alternation  of  dry  and  wet  which 
does  not  give  good  results.  Try  the  seed  in  a  place  of  half-shade, 
cover  only  a  little  with  light,  sandy  loam  and  cover  above  with  a  thin 
litter  of  leaves  and  sprinkle  frequently,  but  not  too  freely,  and  you 
ought  to  get  palm  seedlings  freely.  Better  methods  for  handling  palm 
seed  are  those  described  in  Chapter  VII  for  seeds  generally. 

Trimming-up  Palms. — There  can  be  no  question  that  palms  are 
made  lanky  and  unthrifty  by  too  free  trimming  up  of  the  old  leaves 


242  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

for  the  sake  of  neatness.  The  way  natural  to  a  palm  is  to  maintain  a 
green  crown  and  allow  the  dying  leaves  to  decline  and  finally  form  a 
thick  clothing  for  the  stem,  retaining  their  places  for  many  years. 
The  view  of  an  old  palm  should  present  a  clean,  cylindrical  shaft 
below;  above  that  the  cover  or  thatch  of  dead  leaves  and  above  that 
the  crest  of  verdure.  Most  people,  however,  think  that  a  palm  does 
not  look  neat  with  its  shaft  littered  up  that  way,  and  so  they  cut  off 
all  the  old  leaves  and  then  cut  off  the  living  ones  as  soon  as  they  begin 
to  show  discoloration  of  age.  If  you  like  that  sort  of  a  palm  you  can 
go  to  plucking  the  old  plumes  whenever  you  feel  like  it.  One  time  for 
doing  so  is  as  bad  as  another. 

If  one  dislikes  the  stubs  he  makes  by  trimming  up  he  may  conceal 
them  and  perhaps  compensate  for  the  protection  against  heat  and 
drying  which  the  natural  leaf-cover  provides,  by  growing  light  vines 
on  the  palm  trunk.  Heavy  vines  should  not  be  used.  They  are  too 
•aggressive.  Muehlenbeckia  has  been  used  with  rather  good  effect,  but 
Kenilworth  ivy  is  to  us  more  graceful  and  appropriate.  Of  course 
many  others  are  suitable  for  the  purpose.  It  is  natural  enough  for 
tropical  palm  trunks  to  be  vine-clad. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 
TREES  FOR  SHADE  AND  ORNAMENT. 

Obviously  we  can  take  but  a  glance  at  the  trees — just  as  every 
garden-visitor  does  after  his  attention  has  been  concentrated  for  a 
long  time  upon  the  flowers  which  his  host  has  been  commending  to 
his  enjoyment.  It  will  do  to  remember  that  California  has  not  only 
"big  trees,"  but  many  trees  which  are  distinctly  her  own  by  birth — "an 
unusually  large  number  of  them,"  says  Dr.  Jepson,  and  the  reader  who 
wishes  to  know  their  unique  characters  and  their  wonderful  history,  will 
of  course  study  Dr.  Jepson's  books  mentioned  in  the  footnote  upon 
page  8.  California  has  also  many  trees  which  are  hers  by  adoption — 
hundreds  of  them,  whose  introduction  has  been  compelled  by  all 
motives  of  beauty-loving  and  wealth-winning  which  have  actuated  our 
cosmopolitan  population.  We  shall  assume  the  duty  of  mentioning 
only  a  few  which  have  achieved  wide  popularity,  thus  demonstrating 
suitability  for  choice  by  the  amateur  who  wishes  to  be  assured  first  of 
all  that  the  few  he  plants  shall  be  thrifty  and  satisfactory.  Although 
occasional  reference  may  be  made  to  the  desirability  of  a  tree  for 
highway  and  avenue  planting,  this  suitability  will  not  be  systematically 
pursued.  The  chief  purpose  will  be  to  indicate  trees  from  which  selec- 
tion may  be  made  for  shade  or  ornament  in  connection  with  door-yard 
planting  or  for  the  shaded  areas  which  may  be  provided  in  the  environ- 
ment thereof. 

Acacias. — These  evergreen  flowering  trees,  chiefly  from  Australia, 
constitute  an  important  feature  of  our  exotic  silva.  Scores  of  species 
have  been  introduced  and  if  one  desires  to  pursue  them  botanically  and 
descriptively  it  is  now  possible  through  the  contribution  by  Miss  Katherine 
D.  Jones  of  the  University  of  California  to  the  1914  edition  of  the 
Standard  Cyclopaedia  of  Horticulture.  The  following  are  very  widely 
grown: 

Acacia  decurrens;  variety,  normalis. — The  well-known  "black 
wattle"  tree  of  Australia,  a  medium-sized  tree  of  rapid  growth,  with 
beautiful  fern-like  foliage  and  brilliant  yellow  blossoms. 

Acacia  melanoxylon  (blackwood  acacia). — An  upright,  symmetrical, 
pyramidal  tree,  of  rapid  growth,  with  dense  foliage.  Very  neat  and 
trim  in  appearance,  making  an  excellent  sidewalk  tree. 

Acacia  pycnantha  (golden  wattle). — A  medium-sized  or  small  tree, 
well  branched,  with  heavy  foliage,  and  dense  clusters  of  beautiful 
yellow  flowers,  borne  very  profusely  in  spring  time.  Bark  also  very 
valuable  for  tanning  purposes.  Tree  of  rapid  growth,  but  often  suffers 
from  breakage  by  wind.  Very  ornamental  when  in  bloom. 


244  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

Araucaria. — These  well-known  greenhouse  plants  in  wintry  climates 
are  tall  trees  in  the  open  air  in  California.  The  Norfolk  Island  pine 
(excelsa)  is  seen  everywhere  in  the  coast  and  interior  valleys  and  foot- 
hills, lifting  its  stately  form — generally  with  less  than  half  enough 
space  to  grow  in.  The  Bidwillii  or  "bunga-bunga"  is  a  more  satis- 
factory tree  under  trying  conditions  of  heat  and  drouth. 

Ash. — This  tree  is  found  native  in  parts  of  Texas,  Arizona,  Nevada 
and  northern  Mexico,  varying  considerably  in  size  and  appearance,  but 
it  is  everywhere  a  drought-resisting  ash  of  great  value  and  worth  ex- 
tensive planting,  for  it  has  demonstrated  its  success  in  the  most  trying 
places  in  California.  It  is  not,  however,  very  rapid  in  growth. 

Birch. — These  well-known  white  bark,  hardy  trees  are  beautiful  in 
clumps  or  as  single  trees.  The  cut-leaved,  creeping  birch  is  a  most 
graceful  and  desirable  tree  and  quite  rapid  in  growth  under  ordinary 
garden  conditions. 

Bottle  Tree  (Sterculia  diversifolia). — This  is  the  "bottle  tree"  of 
Victoria,  a  stout,  glabrous  tree  from  20  to  60  feet  in  height  and  having 
a  peculiar  bottle-shaped  trunk.  It  is  a  very  striking  tree  in  appearance 
and  has  shown  its  adaptation  to  the  coast  region  at  least,  especially 
in  southern  California.  Mr.  Earnest  Braunton  of  Los  Angeles  says 
of  it:  "It  is  one  of  the  cleanest  of  trees,  of  a  bright,  pleasing  shade  of 
green,  the  trunk  is  straight  and  mast-like,  the  branches  are  not  far 
reaching  and  therefore  not  liable  to  injury  by  wind,  and  needs  little  if 
any  pruning;  it  is  a  fast  grower  when  well  supplied  with  water,  yet 
noted  for  its  drought-resisting  qualities.  Its  general  outline  is  well- 
nigh  perfect,  its  carriage  graceful;  it  does  not  grow  so  thick  as  to 
harbor  dead  leaves  and  rubbish,  yet  enough  to  cast  all  needed  shade; 
seldom  does  one  make  abnormal  growth,  and  it  will  not  injure  the 
sidewalk  by  upheaval." 

Camphor. — The  camphor  tree  is  a  handsome,  broad-leaved  ever- 
green, attaining  large  size  and  noticeable  by  the  characteristic  light 
green  of  its  foliage.  It  endures  in  California  a  temperature  as  low 
as  20°  Fahr.,  and  is  probably  about  as  hardy  as  the  olive.  Thrifty 
trees  can  be  found  in  California  valleys  as  far  north  as  Shasta  County. 
It  succeeds  on  a  great  variety  of  soils  but  makes  its  best  growth  on 
rich,  retentive  soil.  The  trees  can  be  readily  grown  from  seed,  which 
should  be  planted  in  sandy  loam  in  January  or  February,  according 
to  the  time  when  the  soil  becomes  warm,  covered  about  one-half  inch 
and  kept  moist  but  not  wet.  Growth  in  seed-boxes  protected  from 
cold  winds  and  with  partial  shade  until  the  plants  are  in  full  leaf  is 
to  be  commended.  From  the  boxes  transplant  into  nursery  rows  early 
in  the  fall,  retaining  the  earth  about  the  roots  as  much  as  possible  and 
using  water  if  the  soil  is  dry.  The  trees  endure  transplanting  even 


TREES  FOR  SHADE  AND  ORNAMENT  245 

when  of  considerable  size  by  the  treatment  usually  accorded  olive  or 
orange  trees. 

Carob. — This  handsome,  round-headed  tree  will  produce  excellent 
effects  in  dry  places,  among  rocks,  etc.,  although  it  relishes  better 
places  and  easier  conditions. 

Catalpa. — Catalpas  are  very  satisfactory  in  all  California  localities; 
full,  hardy  and  enduring  high  heat  and  drouth. 

Cedar. — The  Himalayan  cedar  (Cedrus  deodara)  is  perhaps  the 
most  glorious  of  the  introduced  conifers  of  California,  and  it  has  a 
very  wide  range  of  suitability.  Splendid  specimens  are  seen  in  parks 
and  gardens  in  all  our  valleys  and  foothills  north  and  south.  Experi- 
ments in  reforestation  carried  on  by  the  government  on  the  mountains 
north  of  Santa  Barbara,  have  demonstrated  that  the  deodara  thrives 
better  than  any  other  species,  even  exceeding  the  conifers  native  to 
the  locality.  The  foliage  is  gray  rather  than  green,  with  lacelike 
effect  and  somewhat  drooping  attitude.  It  is  not  a  large  tree  and  still 
attains  good  stature  and  breadth.  It  is  beautiful  and  dependable. 

The  Cedar  of  Lebanon  is  also  quite  at  home  in  California  and  is  a 
delight  to  those  who  prize  historical  associations. 

Chestnut. — The  Italian  or  Spanish  chestnut  is  a  tree  of  fairly  rapid 
growth,  cleanly  built  trunk  and  branches  and  handsome  foliage.  Single 
specimens  are  very  symmetrical  and  impressive  and  give  a  dense  shade. 

Cypress. — Our  most  widely  grown  cypress  is  that  from  Monterey. 
It  is  native  to  a  rocky  area  about  two  hundred  yards  wide  and  a  few 
miles  in  length  along  the  California  coast  south  of  the  Bay  of  Mon- 
terey, where  it  grows  about  fifty  feet  high  and  forms  in  age  a  broad 
flat-topped  crown  resembling  a  cedar  of  Lebanon.  With  cultivation  it 
becomes  a  symmetrical,  rapid-growing  evergreen,  or  it  may  be  kept 
clipped  to  hedge  form.  It  is  largely  grown  as  a  windbreak. 

The  Italian  cypress  does  well,  where  tall  narrow  plumes  are  desired 
— chiefly  by  the  architect. 

Elms. — Elms  demonstrate  their  delight  in  California  and  though 
we  have  none  so  old  and  famous  as  the  historic  elms  of  the  east,  they 
are  on  their  way.  Wherever  the  American  white  elm  (Ulmus  Ameri- 
cana) has  room  to  spread  its  branches  in  all  its  glory  of  foliage,  it  is 
a  model  tree  and  fine  specimens  are  found  with  only  a  few  years' 
growth  on  them.  It  is  somewhat  subject  to  wind-breakage  of  branches 
and  is  safer  in  the  lee  of  other  trees. 

The  cork  bark  elm  is  a  smaller  and  more  compact  tree,  with 
peculiar  cork-like  excrescences  on  the  stem  and  limbs.  It  is  very 
widely  successful  and  by  some  recommended  more  highly  than  any 
other  variety. 

The  European  elm  is  often  commended  as  the  most  desirable  of  all 
the  elms  as  a  street  tree  in  California.  It  has  a  stout,  round  trunk, 


246  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

symmetrical  crown  and  comes  into  full  foliage  in  the  middle  of  Feb- 
ruary, two  months  earlier  than  the  cork  elm. 

Eucalyptus. — The  eucalyptus  species  of  which  scores  have  been 
introduced  from  Australia  do  much  to  make  the  California  landscape 
surprising  to  Eastern  and  European  eyes.  Besides  the  species  largely 
planted  for  fuel,  timber  and  shade — such  as  the  blue  gum,  red  gum, 
grey  gum,  etc.,  as  offered  in  all  California  nursery  catalogues,  there 
are  other  species  which  are  superior  for  floral  effects  and  therefore 
nearer  to  our  present  purposes.  A  few  will  be  cited: 

Eucalyptus  polyanthema. — Fine  tree  of  full  habit,  well-branched, 
with  heavy  foliage,  leaves  ovate  to  rounded  in  shape,  gray-green  to 
soft  blue-gray  in  color.  Flowers  small,  white,  in  close  clusters  on 
ends  of  branchlets,  much  resembling  gigantic  heads  of  mignonette. 
Bark  roughish,  brown,  persistent;  withstands  considerable  frost. 

E.  diversicolor. — The  "Karri."  Straight,  well-branched,  symmetrical 
tree.  Leaves  ovate-lanceolate,  pointed,  dark-green,  glossy.  Flowers 
white,  in  heavy  clusters;  April,  May,  June,  and  again  in  November. 
Bark  smooth,  grey-brown,  persistent  for  some  years.  Profuse  bloomer; 
useful  for  bees.  Good  shade  tree;  yields  valuable  timber.  Growth 
rapid. 

E.  cornuta  var.  Lehmannii. — Displays  tendency  to  divide  into 
several  stems  at  or  near  ground,  making  a  spreading  tree.  Leaves 
small,  oblong,  thick  in  texture,  dull-green.  Flower  buds  very  large; 
resembling  close  clusters  of  horns;  flowers  in  large,  globular  heads  of 
apple-green  filaments;  fruit  in  large,  close,  spiny  clusters;  all  very 
remarkable.  Blooms  July,  August,  September.  Growth  (time  and 
conditions  as  above) — height  24  feet,  spread  of  branches  30  feet. 
Valuable  as  an  ornamental  and  as  a  botanical  curiosity. 

E.  citriodora. — Rather  slender,  straight-stemmed  tree,  with  long, 
slender,  drooping  branchlets,  and  long,  narrow,  sickle-shaped,  bright 
green  leaves.  Flowers  creamy-white.  Leaves  exquisitely  lemon- 
scented,  retaining  the  perfume  when  dried;  beautiful  and  very  desirable 
ornamental. 

E.  robusta. — Handsome,  symmetrically  branching  tree.  Leaves 
large,  ovate-lanceolate,  pointed,  dark  green,  glossy,  leathery.  Flowers 
large,  white.  Free  bloomer,  valuable  for  bees.  Fine  avenue  tree. 

E.  calophylla. — Well-formed  tree  of  regular,  symmetrical  outline, 
and  rather  pyramidal  form.  Leaves  ovate  to  ovate-lanceolate,  pointed,  dark- 
green,  glossy.  Flowers  large,  white,  in  large  clusters,  very  con- 
spicuous ;  seed  capsules  large,  urn-shaped,  remarkable.  Bark  cinnamon 
colored,  persistent.  Fine  ornamental  and  shade  tree. 

E.  leucoxylon  var.  rosea. — Elegant,  upright  tree,  with  drooping 
branches,  and  light,  glauceous  blue  foliage.  Leaves  medium-sized, 
lanceolate.  Flowers  pink,  in  loose  clusters  along  the  drooping 


EUCALYPTUS  TREES  FOR  BEAUTY  247 

branchlets;  February,  March,  April.  Bark  rough,  fissured,  reddish- 
brown,  very  resinous,  persistent,  contrasting  well  with  the  foliage. 
Growth  (time  and  conditions  as  above) — height  37  feet,  girth  39  inches. 
Wood  of  very  superior  quality.  A  tree  of  many  attractions. 

E.  ficifolia. — The  scarlet  flowered  gum,  a  gorgeous  sight  indeed 
when  in  bloom;  moderate  sized  tree,  foliage  dark  green,  glossy;  not  a 
fast  grower  and  not  compact  and  symmetrical  in  habit,  but  a  marvel 
with  red  bloom  and  large  brown  seed  capsules.  It  bears  its  huge  pin- 
nacles of  brilliant  flowers  after  the  second  or  third  year,  remaining  a 
long  time  in  bloom. 

E.  crebra — narrow-leaved,  iron-bark;  remarkably  tall  and  slender; 
bark  is  thick,  rough  and  persistent;  foliage  feathery,  drooping;  very 
ornamental. 

Eucalyptus  seedlings  can  be  quite  readily  grown  by  soaking  the 
seed  a  few  hours  in  warm  water  and  sowing  in  boxes  in  sandy  loam 
soil.  (See  page  60.)  The  seed  should  be  covered  very  lightly  indeed 
and  the  soil  kept  continually  moist,  but  not  wet,  and  it  should  have  a 
fair  amount  of  heat,  but  not  direct  sunshine.  The  seedlings  can  be 
planted  out  when  they  attain  a  height  of  8  or  10  inches. 

Ficus. — This  is  a  very  quick-growing  and  ornamental  genus  of  trees, 
including  those  known  as  rubber  trees.  They  are  useful  where  shade  is 
desired;  also,  if  the  concealment  of  any  undesirable  objects  is  con- 
cerned. They  are  all  hardy  in  most  coast  and  valley  situations  and 
can  be  grown  without  irrigation,  usually.  Microphylla  is  one  of  the 
most  vigorous  growers. 

Ginkgo. — The  Ginkgo  or  maidenhair  tree  is  the  sacred  tree  of  Japan 
and  China,  and  some  excellent  specimens  are  found  in  California.  It 
is  of  rather  slow  growth,  but  is  interesting  on  account  of  its  historical 
association  and  its  foliage  which  resembles  that  of  a  maidenhair  fern. 
In  the  autumn  the  leaves  turn  a  beautiful  clear  golden  color,  lasting  so 
for  some  weeks  before  falling. 

Grcvillea. — Among  evergreens,  Grevillea  robusta,  the  Australian 
silky  oak,  is  admirable  for  its  quick  and  pyramidal  growth,  as  well  as 
for  the  elegance  of  its  fernlike  foliage,  and  the  profusion  of  its  orange- 
colored  blossoms,  was  it  not  for  the  brittleness  of  its  branches  in  loca- 
tions much  exposed  to  the  wind.  In  a  sheltered  place  it  is  a  great 
beauty. 

Locust. — The  old-fashioned  locust,  which  makes  a  dense  shade  and 
produces  a  wealth  of  large  fragrant  blossoms,  will  always  claim  con- 
sideration as  a  shade  tree  and  is  ever  likely  to  be  chosen  for  hot  and 
dry  situations  where  other  trees  may  fail.  Nothing  seems  to  be  too 
hard  for  it. 

Lindens. — In  Germany  the  tilia  is  known  as  linden;  in  England, 
lime-tree,  and  in  the  United  States,  bass-wood.  The  European  species 


248  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

has  the  larger  leaves  and  is  very  satisfactory.  Of  the  basswoods,  Tilia 
Americana  is  most  used,  although  T.  heterophylla  is  more  ornamental, 
having  larger  leaves,  smoother,  and  with  a  silvery  sheen  underneath. 
The  lindens  do  well  even  in  our  hottest  valleys  and  are,  of  course, 
hardy  enough  for  the  mountains  also. 

Maples. — One  of  the  best  maples  we  have  is  the  "big-leaved  maple" 
(Acer  macrophyllum),  often  called  California  maple  or  Oregon  maple. 
This  native  maple  grows  along  streams  in  the  mountains  and  is  a 
highly  desirable  shade  or  street  tree  in  loamy  or  sandy  soil  which  is 
not  too  dry.  In  cultivation  it  is  remarkable  for  its  rapid  growth,  clean 
habits,  hardiness  and  resistance  to  wind-breakage.  The  hard  maple, 
as  well  as  most  of  the  Eastern  and  European  maples,  do  well  in  most 
parts  of  California,  some  of  them  showing  pleasing  autumn  colors. 

Magnolia. — The  magnolia  grandiflora  does  very  well  in  some  shel- 
tered localities,  but  needs  a  good  depth  of  soil,  which  is  often  hard  to 
secure  on  high  ground.  It  requires  plenty  of  moisture  in  order  to 
insure  fine  blossoms.  In  such  conditions  it  is  one  of  the  most  magnifi- 
cent trees  known,  its  large,  strong  scented  flowers  appearing  all  the 
year  round  in  some  places. 

Pecan. — The  pecan  makes  a  good  growth  both  on  the  coast  and  in 
the  lower  lands  of  the  interior  valley.  It  grows  40  or  50  feet  high  in 
the  interior  valleys,  where  it  is  admired  as  a  roadside  tree. 

Pepper. — The  beautiful  and  well-known  pepper  tree  is  still  being 
planted  largely  in  spite  of  blame  placed  upon  it  for  harboring  insects 
injurious  to  fruit  trees;  .also  for  constantly  dropping  leaves,  blossoms 
and  berries,  which  are  a  source  of  annoyance  if  the  trees  are 
planted  where  they  overhang  lawn,  building  or  walk.  But  for  a  long, 
shady  lane,  what  can  be  more  beautiful?  Their  drooping,  swaying 
branches,  their  fern-like  leaves,  their  bright  red  berries,  and  dainty 
flowers  are  hard  to  resist.  The  result  is  that  if  one  excepts  the  blue 
gum,  no  tree  has  been  more  extensively  planted  in  California  than  the 
pepper  tree,  and  it  will  remain  one  of  the  most  valuable  introductions 
from  abroad,  as  it  thrives  everywhere  and  under  the  most  unfavorable 
circumstances. 

Pines. — The  several  pines  native  to  our  mountains,  may  all  be  suc- 
cessfully grown  where  there  is  good  depth  of  soil,  and  all  exotic  pines, 
so  far  as  we  know,  are  reasonably  glad  to  get  to  California,  but  our 
best  pine  is  that  native  at  Monterey,  pinus^  insignis,  which  makes  a 
grand,  tall  and  massive  evergreen  both  in  coast  and  interior  valleys. 

Poplars. — All  the  members  of  this  large  family  seem  to  be  at  home 
in  California.  The  cottonwoods  are  wild  along  streams  even  in  so- 
called  desert  places.  The  Lombardy  poplar  lifts  its  high  plumes  along 
miles  of  valley  farms  and  highways,  where  it  serves  as  a  tall  wind- 


PLATE  12: 


"THE  WISTARIA  WILL  ENVELOP  TALL  HOUSES  WITH 
WEALTH  OF  BLOOM  AND  FOLIAGE" — PAGE  254. 


VARIOUS  ORNAMENTAL  TREES  249 

break.  The  Carolina  poplar  is  a  splendid  street  tree,  surpassing  in  its 
habit  of  growth  or  outline  of  crown  the  big-leaf  maple.  Its  changing 
aspect  is  very  interesting  as  it  passes  from  naked  limbs  to  jewelled 
tassels,  which  are  succeeded  by  the  handsome  foliage.  It  is  best  pro- 
pagated by  cuttings,  which  should  be  all  of  one  kind,  and  were  better 
taken  from  the  male  tree  to  escape  the  immense  quantities  of  downy 
seeds,  which  are  an  annoyance.  The  silver  poplar  is  a  round-headed 
tree  with  very  striking  foliage,  the  silvery  under  surface  turned  out- 
wards under  the  play  of  the  wind.  It  is  an  ornamental  tree  of  old- 
time  California  gardens. 

Sycamores. — Our  native  sycamore  (platanus  racemosus)  is  another 
very  handsome  tree  which  endures  severe  frost,  as  well  as  some  alkali. 
While  its  deciduous  habit  would  be  objectionable  for  some  purposes, 
it  would  make  it  very  desirable  where  shade  was  wanted  only  in  sum- 
mer. Even  when  bare  of  leaves  the  tree  is  picturesque  and  beautiful. 
The  European  plane  tree  is  also  highly  recommended  for  ornamental 
use.  It  is  perhaps  more  sensitive  to  frost  than  our  sycamore.  Both 
varieties  need  soil  of  a  good  depth,  and  an  abundance  of  moisture,  but 
under  proper  conditions  grow  rapidly.  In  Los  Angeles,  trees  which, 
at  the  time  of  planting,  were  at  the  butt  about  the  size  of  a  hoe  handle, 
in  four  and  one-half  years  the  largest  was  eight  inches  in  diameter. 

Texas  Umbrella. — This  is  a  horticultural  variety  of  the  Pride  of 
China,  and  much  superior  to  it.  It  forms  a  compact  and  very  dense 
crown  composed  of  a  multitude  of  erect  and  ascending  branches 
foliaged  with  compound  leaves.  It  is  a  prime  favorite  throughout  the 
San  Joaquin  Valley  and  is  being  more  and  more  planted  in  other  val- 
leys. Its  use  enables  a  good  summer  shade  to  be  obtained  in  the  warm 
interior  valleys  on  the  shortest  possible  notice.  Its  autumn  foliage 
takes  on  yellow  hues  which  splotch  with  color  many  a  village  street. 
It  seeds  very  freely  and  to  be  sure  that  you  do  not  get  the  inferior 
China  tree,  it  is  easy  to  grow  your  own  seedlings.  Take  the  seed  from 
a  tree  of  the  right  type  which  has  no  China  tree  within  a  quarter  or 
half  a  mile.  Gather  the  berries  and  mix  them  four  parts  fine  sand,  one 
part  berries,  and  bury  them  where  they  will  not  be  disturbed  and 
where  they  will  not  become  dry.  nor  too  wet.  If  in  danger  of  moles 
or  gophers,  wrap  up  in  piece  of  wire  netting.  In  the  spring,  when  all 
danger  of  frost  is  passed,  plant  in  rows  3  feet  apart  and  3  or  4  inches 
apart  in  the  row.  Never  irrigate  unless  the  plants  seem  to  stop  grow- 
ing, and  if  water  should  be  used  make  a  V-shaped  trench  as  close  to 
the  plant  as  possible  and  cover  up  with  dry  dirt  as  soon  as  absorbed 
by  soil.  One  can  grow  trees  this  way  6  to  8  feet  the  first  year  from  the 
seed. 

Tulip  Tree. — Liriodendron  tulipifera  is  the  great  tulip  tree  of  the 
Atlantic  and  Southern  States.  In  many  districts  this  is  almost  a  swamp 


250  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

tree,  but  it  will  grow  in  some  parts  of  California  exceedingly  well.  A 
tree  near  Niles,  in  Alameda  County,  about  fifteen  years  old,  stood  about 
thirty  feet  high,  with  a  noble  sweep  of  branches.  This  tree  grows 
slowly  after  the  twentieth  year  and  its  ordinary  height  is  hardly  above 
sixty  or  seventy-five  feet. 

Walnut. — Both  the  eastern  and  native  black  walnuts  make  grand 
shade  trees  over  a  large  and  varied  area  in  California,  from  the  intense 
dry  heat  of  the  interior  to  the  cool  and  moist  conditions  of  the  north- 
ern coast  line.  Some  prefer  the  eastern  black  walnut  because  it  is 
inclined  to  drop  all  its  leaves  at  once  instead  of  being  so  slow  about 
going  to  sleep  as  the  native  species  is — thus  scattering  litter  for  a  long 
time  and  keeping  the  ground  wet  by  partially  excluding  winter  sun- 
shine. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 
CLIMBING  PLANTS  FOR  CALIFORNIA  GARDENS. 

From  what  has  been  so  freely  asserted  about  the  free-growing 
delight  which  all  other  classes  of  plants  manifest  in  California  the 
reader  may  be  left  to  infer  that  climbing  plants  do  well  and  that  for 
many  kinds  of  them,  the  luxuriance  of  their  growth  and  the  abundance 
and  gorgeousness  of  their  blossoms,  as  displayed  from  tree-tops  and 
house-tops,  if  they  are  allowed  to  have  their  own  way,  California  is 
remarkable.  Native  vines  of  which  the  botanists  and  wild-flower  en- 
thusiasts tell  us  (see  page  8),  clamber  over  the  ocean-side  cliffs,  sub- 
merge the  tall  sycamores  along  the  river-banks,  and  even  spread  their 
delicate  foliage  and  flowers  over  large  areas  of  the  valley  plains.  The 
amateur  who  resolves  to  use  only  California  native  plants  in  his  garden, 
will  find  no  lack  of  wild  vines  to  complete  his  purpose.  And  in  the  line 
of  suitability  for  exotics,  what  has  been  said  of  all  other  plants  is  true 
for  vines;  you  can  grow  successfully  all  the  climbers  which  dwellers  in 
temperate  and  semi-tropical  zones  enjoy,  but  you  must  stop  short  of 
the  real  tropics,  as  several  people  who  have  tried  to  grow  vanilla  in 
California  have  sadly  demonstrated. 

Ways  of  Growing  Vines. — There  is  the  same  issue  between  the 
artist,  poet  and  gardener  in  the  growing  of  vines  as  of  other  plants. 
This  is  suggested,  and  some  principles  which  the  gardener  must 
observe,  are  given  in  Chapter  XL  It  is  the  gardener's  art  to  grow  a 
vine  so  that  it  shall  en-clothe  a  building,  a  pergola  or  a  trellis,  showing 
to  best  advantage  its  foliage  and  bloom.  It  is  the  artist's  and  poet's 
desire,  generally,  that  the  vine  shall  not  be  trained,  but  shall  be  per- 
mitted to  embower  whatever  support  it  can  gain  possession  of.  The 
result  is  that  the  properly  trained  vine  remains  the  permanent  investi- 
ture of  its  support,  disclosing  its  outline  and  decorating  it  with  the 
beauty  of  leaf  and  flower;  while  the  untrained  vine  becomes  a  shell  of 
growth  covering  an  internal  mass  of  dead  leaves  and  twigs  and  im- 
prisoned litter,  until  an  unusually  high  wind  blows  off  the  whole  bower 
with  its  accumulation  of  old  birds'  nests,  dusting  cloths  and  other 
things  lost  from  windows,  and  various  articles  thrown  from  time  to 
time  at  too  melodious  cats.  And  in  its  fall  the  poetic  and  artistic  rub- 
bish will  probably  break  to  pieces  many  desirable  shrubs  and  other 
plants. 

Probably  the  owner  will  scrub  off  and  repaint  the  house  and  declare 
that  never  again  shall  a  vine  grow  upon  it,  but  this  is  not  the  right 
answer.  Vines  should  grow  upon  houses — in  the  California  climates  at 
least.  They  are  innocent  of  the  harm  commonly  charged  upon  them 


252  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

and  they  have  great  beauty.  But  they  should  be  regularly  and  system- 
atically pruned  and  trained.  After  planting  take  the  canes  and  fasten 
them  flat  with  double-plointed  tacks  of  large  size,  which  are  now  avail- 
able -at  all  hardware  stores,  or  stretch  wires  to  which  they  may  be 
securely  tied.  Direct  these  canes  toward  unoccupied  spaces  and  thus 
make  a  perfect  cover.  When  all  the  available  space  is  covered,  remove, 
as  soon  as  you  see  them,  all  suckers  which  show  a  wild  desire  to  em- 
bower the  place.  This  not  only  disposes  of  their  encroachments,  but  it 
throws  more  strength  into  the  canes  or  branches  which  are  in  the  right 
place,  and  it  gives  you  better  leaves  and  flowers  on  the  shorter  growths 
which  come  from  such  branches.  Get  a  long,  light  ladder  which  one 
person  can  easily  handle,  and  be  always  ready  to  give  the  vines  needed 
attention.  The  best  single  time  to  prune  vines  is  just  after  blooming. 
It  is  usually  then  that  the  riotous  suckers  are  most  likely  to  appear 
and  cause  your  vine  to  go  wrong. 

A  FEW  GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  VINES 

It  would  require  half  a  book  of  this  size  to  present  interesting  facts 
about  vines  which  are  a  joy  in  California  gardens;  the  nurserymen's 
catalogues  offer  them  by  the  score  and  usually  they  do  not  say  too 
much  in  praise  of  them.  In  this  connection  only  a  few  groups  can  be 
mentioned. 

Summer-Growing  Vines. — For  summer  screens  for  piazzas,  etc., 
upon  which  winter  sunshine  is  desired,  many  herbaceous  annuals  or 
other  plants  which  die  to  the  ground  are  available.  Hops,  either  from 
seeds  or  roots  are  very  fast  and  shady.  The  Australian  pea-vine  is 
particularly  fine  for  covering  low  walls  or  fences  and  even  porches. 
It  will  stand  very  hot  places  and  furnish  abundant  bloom,  and  in 
frosty  places  will  go  to  the  ground  like  the  hop.  Morning  glories 
and  ipomoeas  are  also  very  good.  The  gourds  are  very  interesting. 
Cobaea  scandens  is  rapid  and  has  a  tropical  aspect.  The  "wild 
cucumber"  or  "manroot,"  though  a  weed  in  a  watermelon  field,  is 
beautiful,  with  its  free  summer  growth  of  light-green,  ivy-like  foliage 
and  light-yellow  blossoms,  is  a  very  good  cover.  Smilax  from  seed 
sown  in  February  follows  vertical  strings,  makes  a  light,  beautiful 
summer  screen  and  gives  you  good  holiday  decoration.  And  there  are 
many  others. 

Bignonias. — At  least  half  a  dozen  bignonias  are  available  and  are  not 
sufficiently  known.  They  are  gorgeous  in  bloom,  in  colors  from  white, 
yellow,  orange  and  red.  Most  of  them  are  never  seen  in  wintry 
climates  except  in  greenhouses,  while  in  California  some  of  them  rush 
for  the  roofs  of  tall  houses  unless  they  are  systematically  trained  as 
they  should  be. 

Bougainvilleas. — Two  species  are  common  in  the  central  and  lower 
coast  regions  and  other  places  of  similar  temperatures — even  enjoying 


GROUPS  OF  GARDEN  VINES  253 

valley  heat  if  well  treated.  They,  too,  are  apt  to  be  rank  growers  and 
need  training. 

Passion  Vines. — Passifloras  also  succeed  over  large  areas  of  the 
state.  Perhaps  the  best  for  foliage  and  color  is  the  scarlet  passion 
vine  (manicata)  but  it  needs  to  be  out  of  the  frost.  More  hardy,  and 
yet  not  out  of  reach  of  frost,  is  the  pink  passion  vine  (Tacsonia  molli- 
sima)  which  will  range  over  fences,  buildings  and  away,  making  rods 
of  growth  and  thousands  of  great  flowers,  followed  by  large  yellow, 
edible  fruits,  which  both  the  chickens  and  the  children  enjoy,  but  it 
gets  very  shabby  if  not  resolutely  pruned  and  trained.  And  there  are 
many  other  passion  vines  grown  in  thermal  places. 

Solanums. — Two  potato-blossom  vines  are  widely  grown  and  their 
blooms  in  white  and  blue  very  beautiful — the  latter  (Wendlandii)  can 
hardly  be  overpraised  for  a  nearly  frostless  place. 

Clematis. — The  free  growing  white  clematis  (paniculata)  and  the 
deep  purple  (Jackmannii)  are  most  widely  grown  and  they  have  quite 
a  different  blooming  season.  They  are  good  everywhere,  while  the 
improved  more  tender  varieties  need  the  attention  of  a  specialist. 

Honeysuckles. — Honeysuckles  are  for  everybody  and  everywhere. 
The  old  sorts  most  popular  at  the  east  are  far  less  satisfactory  in 
California  than  the  Japanese  and  Chinese  varieties. 

Jasmines. — Some  of  these  species  have  been  briefly  discussed  in 
Chapter  XXII.  They  are  good  climbers  also  and  they  can  be  trained 
either  way.  Another,  which  is  a  near-jasmine,  is  Mandevillea  suaveo- 
lens — is  a  rapid-growing  deciduous  vine  blooming  freely  in  the  sum- 
mer. The  large  clusters  of  pure  white  flowers  are  borne  on  long  stems 
and  are  very  beautiful.  Another  is  the  Malayan  jasmine,  Rhyncosper- 
mum  jasminoides.  The  flowers  are  borne  in  pretty,  graceful  clusters. 
Its  cultivation  is  easy,  and  where  trained  over  a  low  trellis,  is  lovely. 

Plumbago. — Both  white  and  blue  are  good,  low  climbers — the  latter 
more  strikingly  beautiful.  It  endures  heat  and  drouth  very  well  and 
blooms  all  summer. 

Climbing  Fig. — Ficus  repens  is  interesting  as  a  very  clbse  climbing 
vine  which  tries  to  preserve  the  form  it  covers  and  is  not  obtrusive. 
It  is  good  for  decorating  a  house  wall  or  a  porte-cochere. 

Ampelopsis. — Perhaps  no  vines  are  more  popular  than  the  ampel- 
opses.  We  enjoy  the  old  Virginia  creeper  for  its  autumn  effects  chiefly, 
but  the  vine  which  is  going  everywhere  on  public  and  private  build- 
ings, stone  fences  and  concrete  retaining  walls,  etc.,  as  the  Japanese 
ampelopsis  veitchii,  which  has  been  re-named  "Boston  ivy."  It  is 
widely  planted  in  California,  where  it  succeeds  admirably  and  is  much 
admired.  It  preserves  the  outline  of  the  wall  and  thus  heightens 
architectural  effect.  It  needs  little  trimming  except  to  remove  trailers 


254  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

which  fail  to  make  attachment.  It  presents  an  even  surface  of  bright 
green,  changing  to  dark  green  and  to  various  shades  of  red  as  the 
autumn  advances,  and  drops  its  leaves  in  winter  that  the  sun  may 
warm  and  dry  the  walls  during  the  rainy  season.  It  seems  to  endure 
the  hottest  sun  of  the  coast  region  on  brick  or  stone  walls,  but  we 
have  seen  it  burned  on  board  walls  and  fences,  which  may  limit  its 
availability  for  frame  buildings,  and  yet  it  is  very  commonly  used 
upon  them. 

Akebia  quinata. — This  is  a  strikingly  pretty  vine  for  a  rather  low 
support  over  which  it  can  clamber  as  it  likes.  It  has  clover-shaped 
leaves  and  old  rose  flowers  of  unique  shape. 

Wistaria. — Wistarias  of  many  hues  and  forms  are  domiciled  in 
California  and  are  fully  at  home;  they  do  not  hesitate  to  envelop  tall 
houses  in  a  wealth  of  foliage  and  bloom.  The  kinds  grown  are  of 
oriental  origin  and  we  err  greatly  in  not  growing  them  more  widely  in 
an  oriental  way,  which,  by  regular  pruning  and  training,  displays  their 
falling  racemes  most  effectively.  Wistarias,  as  we  grow  them,  are 
excellent,  however,  for  heavy  summer  shade  and  entrance  of  winter 
sunshine  over  great  areas  of  courts  or  buildings. 

Climbing  Roses. — But  all  the  vines  above  named,  taken  together, 
probably  do  not  equal  in  popularity  and  delightful  service  the  climbing 
roses,  of  which  much  is  said  in  Chapter  XIV.  All  that  has  been  sug- 
gested in  the  pruning  and  training  of  vines  applies  directly  to  the 
treatment  of  climbing  roses,  and  their  success  depends  largely  upon 
treatment.  There  are  so  many  climbing  roses  and  they  differ  so 
widely  in  their  characters  and  behaviors  cannot  be  enumerated. 
Much  of  the  satisfaction  in  climbing  roses  depends  upon  the  freedom 
of  their  foliage  from  blighting  diseases  during  nearly  the  whole  of  the 
year.  Many  roses  have  such  freedom;  others  seem  to  be  subject  to 
every  ill  that  the  rose  plant  is  heir  to;  others  still  are  healthy  and 
vigorous  in  one  place  and  not  in  another.  Therefore  it  becomes  de- 
sirable for  the  planter  to  study  the  roses  he  can  find  growing  in  his 
district  before  making  a  choice  for  his  house-cover.  If  he  cannot 
find  dependable  ones,  he  should  plant  twice  as  many  bushes  of  differ- 
ent kinds  as  he  expects  to  finally  retain;  uproot  the  poor  ones  and 
out-train  the  good  ones  to  occupy  wider  space.  In  this  way  he  will 
free  himself  from  disappointment  without  losing  time  in  securing  that 
which  is  good. 


PART  VI:    PLANT  PROTECTION. 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
METHODS  AGAINST  PLANT  PESTS  AND  DISEASES. 

We  have  comforted  the  reader  thus  far  with  the  assurance  that 
there  are  policies  of  explanation,  concession  and  reconciliation  for 
all  his  hardships  and  difficulties.  Now  we  order  him  out  on  the  firing 
line;  he  has  to  fight  and  he  must  fight  wisely  and  well.  Qualification 
for  this  is  not  easy  nor  hastily  acquired.  It  must  be  pursued  through 
the  manuals  on  insects,  fungous  diseases,  etc.,  of  which  there  are 
several  good  ones.  Fortunately  there  are  also  many  branches  of  the 
public  service  which  may  be  appealed  to  for  information:  the  Agricul- 
tural Experiment  Station  at  Berkeley,  the  State  Horticultural  Com- 
missioner at  Sacramento,  the  County  Horticultural  Commissioner  and 
the  County  Farm  Adviser  at  the  county  seats  of  most  counties,  the 
science  teachers  in  the  local  high  schools — all  these  will  help  you  to 
identify  insects,  blights,  mildews,  etc.,  which  you  may  find  in  your 
garden  and  to  apply  the  proper  remedies.  For  knowledge  of  the 
character  and  vulnerability  of  insects,  which  are  more  abundant  in 
every  garden  than  all  other  forms  of  life  combined,  there  is  fortunately 
an  excellent  treatise  available  free  of  cost,  and  every  plant-grower 
should  supply  himself  with  it.*  With  all  the  help  he  can  get,  however, 
the  amateur  should  never  relax  the  determination  to  understand  the 
pest  and  disease  problems  which  arise  in  his  own  experience,  and 
should  make  constant  effort,  by  patient  observation,  toward  that  end. 

FOR  INSECTS,  BLIGHTS  AND  MILDEWS. 

It  is  fortunate  for  the  amateur  who  usually  works  on  a  small  area 
and  with  many  kinds  of  plants  which  do  not  call  for  large  quantities 
of  materials  at  the  same  moment,  that  the  manufacture  of  insecticides 
and  fungicides  has  been  so  extended  that  one  can  buy  preparations  in 
small  packages  or  cans  for  nearly  all  the  pests  and  diseases  he  is  likely 
to  encounter.  They  cost  more  than  home-made  stuff,  but  you  save  all 
the  time  and  trouble  of  cooking  and  mussing  and  of  getting  into 
mortal  combat  with  the  cook.  It  is  fortunate  also  that  you  can  get 
simple  atomizers,  sprayers,  dusters,  blowers,  etc.,  for  the  application  of 
liquids  or  powders  for  different  kinds  of  insects  or  fungi,  and  they  are 
inexpensive  and  light  in  weight,  so  that  any  one  can  use  them  effect- 
ively. All  the  catalogues  of  California  seedsmen  offer  such  materials 
and  appliances,  and  the  amateur  should  have  a  war-cabinet  in  his  tool 

*"Injurious  and  Beneficial  Insects  of  California,"  1915;  by  E.  O.  Essig — to  be  had 
by  application  to  State  Commissioner  of  Horticulture,  Sacramento. 


256  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS 

house,  where  such  things  are  kept  always  ready  for  use.  Formerly  one 
had  to  spoil  his  temper  and  his  clothes  and  be  late  for  church  in  mak- 
ing and  applying  some  mess  to  a  plant,  while  now  he  can  saunter  into 
the  garden  after  breakfast,  spy  a  new  pest,  take  a  shot  at  it  with  the 
proper  ammunition  and  artillery,  get  to  church  early  and  enjoy  the 
sermon  because  he  knows  that  he  has  put  satan  behind  him.  The  trade 
has  certainly  done  great  things  for  the  amateur.  But  though  the 
problem  of  insecticides  and  fungicides  has  been  thus  simplified  for  the 
amateur,  it  may  be  helpful  to  readers  remote  from  the  shops  to  indi- 
cate a  few  first  aids  to  the  injured. 

A  Universal  Contact  Insecticide. — Kerosene,  emulsified  so  that  its 
injury  to  living  plants  is  obviated,  is  almost  a  universal  garden  insect 
destroyer.  No  matter  what  kind  of  an  insect  it  is,  if  you  can  get  kero- 
sene emulsion  against  the  breathing  port-holes,  which  are  on  the  sides 
of  him,  his  career  is  ended.  The  easiest  way  to  make  a  little  kerosene 
emulsion  is  this: 

Dissolve  a  1-inch  cube  of  laundry  soap  in  1  pint  of  hot  water;  add 
1  pine  of  kerosene.  Churn  with  egg  beater  until  the  mixture  looks 
like  clabbered  milk.  For  growing  plants,  dilute  with  water  to  2  or  3 
gallons;  for  dormant  hard-wood  plants,  1  gallon. 

Another  widely  useful  contact  insecticide  is  tobacco  solution.  It 
can  be  made  by  pouring  five  gallons  of  boiling  water  over  a  bushel  of 
tobacco  stems,  and  after  cooling  pour  off  the  liquid  and  add  five  gal- 
lons of  water.  This  tobacco  tea  should  be  used  as  soon  after  making 
as  possible  and  is  of  little  value  if  allowed  to  stand  two  or  three  days, 
for  it  will  start  to  ferment  and  it  then  loses  strength.  The  most  con- 
venient form  to  use  is  the  nicotine  extract.  Use  one  tablespoonful  of 
the  nicotine  to  five  gallons  of  water. 

A  simple  soap  solution  is  effective  against  plant  lice  if  thoroughly 
applied  several  times  so  as  to  kill  new  comers  or  refugees  from  earlier 
treatments.  Use  an  ordinary  cake  of  laundry  soap  to  five  gallons  of 
warm  water.  Cut  the  soap  in  small  pieces  to  secure  quicker  solution. 

Garden  Fungicides. — Most  mildews  are  checked  by  freely  dusting 
the  plants  with  very  finely-ground  or  sublimed  sulphur.  The  ordinary 
commercial  sulphur  is  too  coarse  to  be  highly  effective.  The  sulphur 
can  be  blown  from  a  dust-sprayer  or  shaken  from  a  cheese-cloth  bag 
fastened  to  the  end  of  a  stick. 

The  copper-fungicides  used  in  orchards  are  effective  against  fungi 
affecting  garden  plants,  but  the  blue-whitewash  effects  are  unhandsome. 
A  fungicide  which  does  not  discolor  foliage  is  this: 

Potassium  sulphide,  3  ozs.;  water,  10  gals.  This  dissolves  imme- 
diately, making  a  clear,  yellowish  liquid.  The  fierce  odor  of  it  is  not 
enduring.  Frequent  applications  have  to  be  made  to  cover  newly- 
grown  foliage. 


VARIOUS  GARDEN  PESTS  257 

SLUGS,  SNAILS  AND  SOWBUGS. 

Garden  snails  are  exceedingly  difficult  to  destroy.  Sprinkling 
powdered  lime  on  the  infested  ground  around  the  plants  destroys 
many  of  them.  Some  people  protect  choice  plants  by  hand  picking  of 
snails  after  dark,  using  a  lantern  to  discover  them.  The  best  way  of 
all,  however,  to  reduce  the  bad  effects  of  snails  is  to  keep  the  surface 
of  the  ground  cultivated  as  much  as  possible  during  the  rainy  season. 
This  gives  the  surface  an  opportunity  to  become  dry,  although  the 
ground  beneath  will  be  moist,  and  snails  cannot  make  any  headway 
upon  a  dry,  pulverized  surface. 

Some  resort  to  trapping;  small  pieces  of  board  placed  upon  the 
ground  surface  under  which  the  snails  collect  in  considerable  numbers, 
and  they  can  be  crushed  on  these  boards,  or  fed  to  chickens  or  other- 
wise disposed  of.  Some  success  is  occasionally  reported  with  poison- 
ing— using  cabbage  or  lettuce  leaves  dipped  in  water  in  which  Paris 
green  is  thoroughly  stirred,  one  ounce  to  five  gallons,  dipping  before 
the  poison  has  a  chance  to  settle  to  the  bottom,  and  placing  these 
poisoned  leaves  on  the  ground  near  the  plants. 

When  the  rains  are  frequent  and  the  ground  kept  constantly  moist 
upon  the  surface,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  check  them.  A  very  good 
way  is  to  have  a  brood  of  young  chickens  or  young  ducks,  with  a  hen 
in  a  coop,  and  allow  them  to  run  in  the  garden.  Ducks  are  the  best 
hunters  for  slugs  that  we  know  of. 

GOPHERS  AND  MOLES. 

These  subterranean  excavators  must  be  mastered.  Suggestions  for 
their  exclusion  from  precious  areas  are  given  on  pages  151  and  190,  but 
extermination  must  be  always  in  mind.  Gophers  eat  plants;  moles  eat 
ground  grubs,  worms,  etc.,  but  in  getting  them  they  wreck  a  garden 
bed;  therefore  both  must  be  killed. 

Moles. — If  you  find  large  mounds  of  dirt  thrown  out  freely,  but 
never  see  an  open  hole  or  a  prospecting  varmint,  you  may  conclude 
that  you  have  to  deal  with  moles  and  not  gophers.  The  best  thing 
then  is  to  get  a  mole  trap,  which  is  placed  near  where  the  mole  is 
working  in  such  a  way  that  his  pushing  out  dirt  sets  off  the  trap, 
which,  by  means  of  a  strong  spring,  shoots  sharp  spikes  through  the 
dirt  into  the  mole  below.  It  takes  a  little  practice  to  place  the  trap 
just  right,  but  it  works  well  when  you  learn  this.  We  have  driven 
away  moles  by  using  a  squirrel  smoker,  which  forces  into  the  runway 
smoke  from  damp  straw  and  sulphur  burning  in  the  machine.  We 
have  killed  them  by  watching  for  the  movement  of  the  earth  as  they 
are  extending  their  surface  burrows  and  striking  in  hard  with  a  hatchet. 
If  the  ground  is  soft,  they  can  be  thrown  out  with  a  spading  fork  and 
killed  on  the  surf-ace. 


258  CALIFORNIA  GARDEN  FLOWERS. 

Gophers. — If  you  find  similar  mounds  of  dirt,  but  find  also  open 
holes  from  time  to  time,  or  if  the  mound  has  a  central  depression 
evidently  plugged  up  with  dirt  from  below,  or  if  you  see  the  beast 
reaching  out  of  the  hole  to  see  which  way  to  go  to  reach  the  next  plant, 
then  you  have  to  deal  with  a  gopher.  Gophers  can  be  poisoned  by  tak- 
ing pieces  of  carrot,  potato  or  apple,  >a  prune  or  a  raisin.  Make  an  in- 
cision in  each  and  slip  in  a  crystal  of  strychnia  sulphate.  Be  sure  to 
get  it  well  down  into  the  burrow  and  then  cover  the  opening  with  a 
sod  or  a  clod  and  dirt  enough  to  exclude  the  light.  If  the  beast  sees 
the  light  he  is  apt  to  push  a  lot  of  dirt  ahead  of  him  and  thus  cover 
or  throw  out  the  bait.  This  must  be  watched,  for  the  poisoned  fruit 
may  attract  a  child  or  a  chicken. 

There  are  several  good  gopher  traps  on  the  market  and  they  are 
all  successful  if  one  places  them  aright  in  a  lower  or  permanent  run- 
way and  not  in  one  of  the  tunnels  which  the  gopher  makes  to  the  sur- 
face to  get  rid  of  the  dirt,  for  surface  feeding  or  for  the  enjoyment  of 
the  landscape.  These  surface  runs  are  often  abandoned  or  are  plugged 
up  with  waste  dirt  which  springs  the  trap  in  advance  of  his  reaching 
that  point. 

Gophers  are  also  successfully  killed  by  the  use  of  carbon  bisulphide, 
with  a  suitable  pump  to  force  the  fumes  into  a  branch  of  the  permanent 
lower  run-way,  or  by  quickly  using  a  surface  tunnel  which  shows  fresh 
dirt,  thus  finding  a  way  open  to  the  main  tunnel  before  the  beast  has 
time  to  close  it  below.  Sometimes  one  will  have  to  deal  with  a  wise 
old  gopher  who  disdains  poison  or  traps,  and  such  a  one  we  usually 
get  with  a  shot  gun  when  he  is  prospecting  from  an  open  hole. 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Acacia    232,   243 

Agapanthus    191 

Ageratum    166 

Akebia  quinata    254 

Allium    191 

Almond,    flowering    230 

Alyssum    166,   207 

Amaranth,   globe    208 

Amaryllis     192 

Ampelopsis    253 

Anemones    192 

April,  work  for   99 

Aquatic  plants    216 

Araucaria    243 

Arctotis    207 

Ash,    Arizona    244 

California  flowering   229 

Ashes,   use  of    32 

Asters   166,  209 

Atriplexes    227 

August,   work  for    105 

Azaleas    230 

Baby   Breath    172 

Balsam    Apple    208,   209 

Bamboo  and  Cane    231 

Begonias    193 

Bignonias     252 

Birch     244 

Blights  and  Mildews 256 

Bottle  Tree    244 

Bougainvillea     252 

Brooms,   Scotch  and  Spanish 231 

Browallia    167 

Buckthorns,   California   226 

Buckwheat,   Wild    227 

Budding  and   Grafting    71 

Bulbs  in  California 184,   190,   191 

Growing,  Hints  on   186,   191 

Planting    186 

Places    for    188 

Protection    of    190 

Soil    for    187 

Treatment    of    189 

Cactus,  From  Cuttings 210 

Soil  and  Care   211 

Transplanting    211 

Calceolaria     167 

California,  Advantages  of 20 

and    Mediterranean    Flora 14 

Climates    12,   15,   17 

Exotic  Plants  in   9 

Floral   Interest    9 

Native  Plants   8,   14,  225 

Not  Tropical    15 

Poppy 10,  206 

State  Flower   10,   177 


PAGE 

Calla    194 

Calliopsis     167 

Camellia    232 

Campanula    167,    207 

Camphor  Tree    244 

Candytuft    168,   206 

Canna    194,    209 

Cantua     232 

Carnations,    Care   of    151 

Cuttings    149 

in  California   148 

in  Hot  Valleys   208 

Protection   from   Gophers    151 

Seedling    150 

Soils   for    148 

Support  for    152 

Carob     245 

Carpenteria,    Californica    227 

Catalpa    245 

Cedar,   Himalayan    245 

Centaurea    168 

Cherry,  Evergreen   226 

Flowering    233 

Jerusalem    235 

Chestnut,    Italian    245 

China  Lilies    202 

Chrysanthemum    153,    168,   209 

Crown-bud  or  Lateral    157 

Disbudding    157 

Easy  Way  with 1-58 

From    Cuttings    154 

From  Seed    154 

in  California    153 

Soil  and  Water  for   158 

Training     156 

Cineraria    168 

Clarkia    169 

Clematis    253 

Climates,   Floral  Characters  of 13 

Indicated  by  Plants   18 

Modifications  of 16,   17,  21 

Climbing  Plants    251 

Cold  Frames,   Construction   of    79 

Coverings   for    81 

Columbine   169,  209 

Cone   Flowers    179 

C'oprosma    233 

Coral  Tree    233 

Coreopsis    167 

Corn   Flowers    168 

Cosmos    169,  209 

Cotoneaster    233 

Crabapple,  Flowering  233 

Crassulas     212 

Crataegus    233 

Crocus     .  195 


260 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Currants,   Flowering    228 

Cuttings,  Growth  from   65 

Hardwood     67 

Length  of 66 

Planting    68 

Soft  Wood 68 

Soil  for   68 

Transplanting    'V 

Cyclamen    19^ 

Cypress   -;:« 

Cypress  Vine    •  •  •  •  •  *J» 

Daffodils    20^,   ^u» 

Dahlias    j-jij! 

Daisies    *'" 

Damping-off    ^ 

Daphne    f f i 

December,  Work  for 112 

Delphinium     }•* 

Deutzia    •  y y  •fg 

Dianthus ;......!//,    i«^ 

Digitalis    %* 

Diosma    £%* 

Drainage    1 2e 

Easter   Lilies   in   California •  •  1° 

Eden,  Gardens  of •  /,  4| 

Elevation,  Influence  of    '/>i  c 

Elms     245 

Erythrina    Ik     «« 

Eschscholtzia    10,   J/7 

Eucalyptus    «** 

Euchardium    *'** 

February,  Work  for    9o 


Ficus    , 

Flannel  Bush 'tWlftS 

Flax,   Crimson    .....171,   206 

Flowers  for  Hot,  Dry  Regions ^U6 

Forget  Me  Nots   ••  •  •  •  171 

Foxglove   172,  207 

Freesias 197 

Fremontia,   Calif ornica    **° 

Frost,  Prevention  of   ** 

Fungicides    ;«V"£5 

Gaillardia    172,    207 

Garden,  Laying  Out 44 

Natural  and  Formal   44,  49 

Plan  of 51 

Year,  Work  for    93 

Geraniums    234 

Ginkgo   Tree    247 

Gladiolus     }97 

Godetia    }72 

Golden  Feather    17* 

Golden  Glow    179 

Gooseberry,   Flowering    ^8 

Gophers  and  Bulbs    19' 

Killing    257 

Green  House,  Amateur's    82 

Ground  Plan    |3 

Whitening  for   °' 

Temperature    of    °4 

Greasewood    227 

Grevillia    247 


PAGE 

Ground  Covers,  Plants  for    .•••••••  J2J 

Ceanothus    "»•  f*j» 

English   Ivy,.. ••»» 

'. '.  128 


Flowering  Plants 


Mesembryanthemum   128,  212 

Strawberries J^° 

Trailing  Roses   »** 

Gypsophila     ^^ 

Heliotrope     •  •. f** 

Herbaceous  Plants,  Open  Air 160 

Annuals  or  Perennials J60 

Arrangement   of    *®i 

Chiefly  Commended ^ 

Cultivation  of    J64 

Exposure   for    |°4 

Hints  for  Sowing   j»* 

When  to  start   JJJ 

Holly,    California    226 


.» 


198' 


Hot  Beds,   Construction    77 

Coverings  for    °u 

Hunnemannia    ^° 

Hydrangeas 
Hyacinths    . 

Insecticides 199"  208 

iris    '      -\     ,7 

Irrigation    34'    J* 

Subterranean    y  •   JJ 

Waste  Water    38    41 

Ixias   200 

Ivy,   Boston    £Jo 

Kenilworth    242 

January,   Work  for    »» 

Jasmine,    Shrubs    *•" 

Climbing    VnV  ?ns 

Jonquils   202,  208 

July,  Work  for   J04 

June,  Work  for   102 

Juniper,    California    -^° 

Kerria    ^e 

Laburnum    •  •  • • **« 

Landscape,  Natural  and  Formal. .....   45 

Larkspur    "S«   *"' 

Lantana    zuy'  *2? 

Lathhouse    °j! 

Laurestinus    ^° 

Lavatera    •  •  •  •  •  ^,? 

Lavender   209,  236 

Lawns  and  Ground  Covers J" 

Brown  Spots    |^° 

Moss    in    H5 

Mulch   for    J^ 

Roller   on    // •  • , "« 


Snails   in 
Trenching  for 
Weeds    in 
Winter 


26 


INDEX 


261 


PAGE 

Layers,   Growth   from    70 

Laying-out,   Light  and   Shade 53 

Leaf  M'old  and  Other  Fibers 30 

Lemon   Verbena    236 

Lilacs,  Wild 225 

Exotic    236 

Lilies,   Growing    200 

Blue  African    191 

Lily  of  the  Valley   201 

Lotus   215 

Limnocharis    216 

Lindens    247 

Lobelia    173 

Locust    247 

Lupin    174,   267 

Lychnis    1 74 

Madeira  Vine    209 

Mahogany,  Mountain 229 

Maidenhair    Tree    247 

Magnolia    248 

Mallow,   False    229 

Malva  Tree    236 

Mandevillea    253 

Manure,  Green    32 

Liquid    32 

Treatment   of    29 

Uses  and  Characters   28 

Manzanita    228 

Maples    248 

March,  Work  for 97 

Marigolds    174,   207 

May,  Work  for   100 

M'ignonette    174,   207 

Moles    257 

Momordica     208 

Monkey  Flower   227 

Montbretias    201 

Morning   Glories    209 

Muehlenbeckia     242 

Myosotis    171 

Narcissus    202,  208 

Nasturtium    1 74 

November,  Work  for   Ill 

Ocean,  Influence  of 18 

October,  Work  for 109 

Oleander    237 

Oxalis    203,  208 

Palms  in  California   239 

California    Fan    240 

Canary  Island    240 

Growing  from  Seed   241 

Japanese  Fan    240 

Kinds  of    240 

Planting    241 

Santa  Barbara   239 

Transplanting  Large    241 

Trimmed-up    242 

Pansy    175 

Passion  Vines    253 

Peach,   Flowering    237 

Peat,   Value  of    30 

Pecan    248 

Peonies     237 

Penstemon    176 

Periwinkle    .  208 


PAGE 

Petunia   177,  206 

Pepper  Tree 248 

Pines    248 

Pinks    177 

Phlox    177,  207 

Plants  for  Transplanting   59 

From  Buds   55,  63 

From  Seeds 55,  57 

Native  or  Exotic 225 

Pests  and   Diseases    255 

Protection    21,   53,   85 

Shrub  and  Tree 224 

Staking  and  Tying 91,  92 

Planting,  Depth  in 8i 

Firmness  in    87 

Shade    After    89 

Treatment  of  Roots 88 

Use  of  Water   88 

Poppies   .-177,  206,  207 

California    10,    177 

Iceland    178 

Matilija    229 

Mexican    1 78 

Oriental    178 

Shirley    178 

Yellow  Tree   227 

Plumbago    253 

Poinsettia    237 

Poplars    248 

Portulaca     179 

Propagation,  Elements  of   5 

Pruning    87 

After   Planting    89 

Purposes  of   90 

Pyrethrum    179 

Pusley    179 

Quince,  Japanese    237 

Ranunculus   203,  208 

Rhododendrons    230 

Romneya   Coulteri    229 

Rose,  The 131 

Budding  and  Grafting 137 

Bush  or  Standard    143 

Care  of 141 

Climbing    254 

Cultivation    140 

Famous  Old 132 

From  Cuttings   134,   135 

in  California   131 

Own  Root   138,   144 

Planting    ...139 

Propagation    134 

Pruning   142,   145 

Requirements  of   133 

Standard    144 

Standard  Budded    145 

Varieties    147 

Rudbeckia    179 

Salpiglossis    179 

Salt  Bush,  Santa  Barbara   227 

Salvia     179 

Sand,  Uses  of  27 

Scabiosa    180 

Schizanthus    180 

Seed  Boxes 60 


262 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Sedums    212 

September,   Work   for    107 

Shrubs,  Native  224 

for   California  Gardens    217-224 

from  Cuttings    220 

from  Seed 219 

from  Planting   220 

Slugs,   Snails  and  Sowbugs 257 

Snapdragon 181,  207 

Snowball   238 

Snowdrops    203 

Solanums 253 

Soils  and   Fertilizers 23 

Chemical   Characters    26 

Improvement  of    26,   30,   31 

Horticultural  Characters    24 

Nature  of   23 

Physical  Characters   25 

Spaces,  the  open 50 

Sparaxis 203 

Spiraeas   238 

Stakes,   Iron  Pipes  for    9 

Sterculia   diversif olia    244 

Star  of  Bethlehem 208 

Stocks    181,    206 

Streptosolon    238 

Sumac,  California   226 

Sunflower    182 

Sweet  Pea    180,   206 

Sweet   Sultan   168,  207 

Sweet  William   182 

Sycamores    249 

Syringa,   Sweet    238 

Tamarix   238 

Tank.    Septic    39 

Tigridias   203 

Tillage,   Reasons  for 34,   35,  42 

Training   87,  89,  91 


PAGE 

Trees,  Arrangement  of 218 

Choice  of    217 

Evergreen  and   Deciduous 218 

from  Cuttings    220 

from  Seed 219,  220 

Planting    220 

Shade  and  Ornamental   243 

Surgery   222 

Tillage  of 222 

Trimming  and  Pruning 221 

Tuberoses   203 

Tubers  in  California   184 

Tulips     204 

Tulip  Tree   249 

Umbrella  Trees 249 

Verbena   182,  208 

Victoria    Regia    214 

Vines,   Summer  Growing    252 

Ways  of  Growing 251 

Violet    182,  207 

Walks,   Straight  or  Curved 48 

Width    of    52 

Wallflower    183 

Walnut    250 

Water  Hyacinth    216 

Water   Lilies    215 

Water  Plants,  in  California  Gardens.  .213 

Locations    for    214 

Ponds  for 214 

Soil  for    214 

Watsonias    205 

Weigelia    238 

Wind  Brakes   52 

Wistaria    254 

Woolly   Blue   Curls    228 

Zephyranthes    .      209 

Zinnia    183,  206 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 

AN  INITIAL  PINE  OF  25  CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  SO  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $1.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


AUG 


C-i 


DEC  9  1946 


F*0 


LD2x 


II  UCJ  / 


3o  oe 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


